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Thread: Air Suspension and 6 pot Big Brake kit

  1. #1
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    Air Suspension and 6 pot Big Brake kit

    As above, these are the final two major upgrades planned for my 2012 110 Defender.

    The Air Suspension to help with the daily ride and entry/exit access without giving away too much off road ability, and it’s just so dam cool, and the big brake kit to upgrade my current modified system which needs new discs now.
    Only down side is I’ll need to go to 18 inch rims and tyre which isn’t a big thing except choice of rim and the added expense.

    Has anyone here actually added the Air suspension to their Defender? I’m wanting to keep my ARB BP51 shocks so it may be a bit of modifying the mounting systems.
    I installed AIR RIDE to a Land Rover DEFENDER!? - YouTube

    What are people running for high quality 18 inch rims?

    Thanks in anticipation and best wishes all.

    Ken.

  2. #2
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    I’m running air on just the rear……and I find it brilliant.

    Would love full air but have other priorities.

    Airbag Man would be my pick, they have also incorporated horizon leveling on top of the automated heigh l leveling. This is a handy feature if running a RTT, pull up, press horizon level and you bed is nice and level.

    Grizzley n Bear just did a recent install video.

    I’m pretty sure you’d be able to keep your shocks.

  3. #3
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    Full Air Suspention.

    Hi mate, thanks for that and I wasn’t aware that Air Bag Man did a full kit for the Defender.

    My ‘Almost Step Son’ who lives with us is mates of theirs so that’s a good thing, and I’ve their helper air bags in my rear springs on the 110 at present.

    I haven’t viewed G & B since they returned to Australia, so I’ll go to their channel and look it up, thanks for the pointer and it will probably be the way to go, as long as the travel heights have been dialed in correctly, the rest of their gear is bullet proof and they’re nice young blokes.

    More to follow in the New Year re this project depending on the ability to travel between QLD and Tassie.

    Ken. 👍

  4. #4
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    Airbag Man Solution

    Excellent.
    ‘I’ll contact the boys in the New Year!
    Land Rover Defender Full Air Suspension ! Moreton Island Edition - YouTube

  5. #5
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    Rangier Rover had an ISUZU 120 that he converted to full air suspension.

    Rangier's ISUZU 4BD1T 120"

    Regards,
    Tote
    Go home, your igloo is on fire....
    2014 Chile Red L494 RRS Autobiography Supercharged
    MY2016 Aintree Green Defender 130 Cab Chassis
    1957 Series 1 107 ute - In pieces
    1974 F250 Highboy - Very rusty project

    Assorted Falcons and Jeeps.....

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by W&KO View Post
    I’m running air on just the rear……and I find it brilliant.

    Would love full air but have other priorities.

    Airbag Man would be my pick, they have also incorporated horizon leveling on top of the automated heigh l leveling. This is a handy feature if running a RTT, pull up, press horizon level and you bed is nice and level.

    Grizzley n Bear just did a recent install video.

    I’m pretty sure you’d be able to keep your shocks.

    Same here on my 130.

  7. #7
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    i run the air bag man full kit (+2") and modified rear bellows. i set mine up with height sensors. i didn't get the horizon level feature. its more for motorhomes that need to level off. And its $400 extra. i found if you leave the car ignition on (even if kill engine) for the prescribed 40 sec, it will level out at the preset height. the height sensors are time delayed to 40 sec and will adjust the height if the height at a sensor remains out of range for longer than 40 sec. they also have a speed setting. i set mine up to change from car park/entry height to normal ride height at 20kph and change from off road height (+2") to normal ride height at 60 kph. The default settings are too low a speed and it's not practical in off road situations to have the bags air down at the 15 or 20 kph in the default setting. ABM will, if you ask nicely, give you the software and access code to the ECU to reprogram it.

    While the bellows are great, you will need to run sway bars front and rear and possibly a firmer rear bar to control the body roll. You will likely have to revalve your shocks too. I run dobinson 3 way 60mm bore remote res shocks and the firmest factory setting should be the softest setting. Bellows require a firmer rebound valving than a coil and the standard shock set up is inadequate. I need to take my shocks into Dobinson to revalve. FYI i asked ARB if they would revalve their shocks for me (before buying Dobinsons) and was told no they won't. ARB are good but they are not flexible in their thinking outside of the box.

    If you are running factory length front shocks the ABM kit is fit and forget. If you are running longer shocks, depending on the closed length you might need to add a spacer to the turret to raise the shock upper mount. I fitted 12mm spacer ring to avoid the shock bottoming out before the bump stop. OEM shocks have a shorter closed length which avoids bottoming out. the ABM kit requires a +1" bump stop extension too. My rear bellows are a 14T1C-7 piston fitted to a 14T1C-8 bellow. I get 550mm travel from that set up. For off road using a 10" shock the 14T1C-7 bellow and piston is all you need. Its 19" v 20.5" full extension on the bellow.

    is it worth it? i have to say yes because there is a substantial amount of money invested. I had flexi long travel coils before air and it was a cushy ride and i had the lift to hit wash outs at 100kph and not bottom out. no chance of that with air.

    another thing to consider with bellows is the rate. for example a 130 factory dual coil is 425lbs/in. the bellow i run at factory ride height is 245lbs/in. that explains the tinny in a storm handling. there is not enough rate to counter act the weight of the vehicle. Thus the reliance on shocks and sway bars. on the other hand it soaks up imperfections in the road because the axle can move so freely under the car. same off road, in particular drainage culverts. the axle can move with little rate resistance from the bellow. side slopes are interesting when the bellow compresses under the weight of the vehicle on the low side. The bellow can carry more weight than a coil and your fore to aft will always sit flat not matter the weight. i put a bobcat on a trailer on the tow ball. as the steering arm was wound down the bellows compressed and then the system kicked in to level off again.

    Long and sort, air bellows are a very different experience to coils and if you are looking for improved handling you will be disappointed. If you have ever seen the early RRCs take a corner, that's what it looks like both from the drivers seat and from the third party observer. i've had my bonnet at 35* taking a round about too quick.

    i considered bigger brakes. decided its not worth the money. the kit is **** expensive and you have to upsize to 18" rims and rubber. If you run the larger callipers you should use a larger master cylinder. larger callipers need more fluid to achieve the same level of brake pressure. or your foot will sink to the floor to get the brake pressure at the calliper. more fluid = larger master cylinder. larger master cylinder = more vacuum assist required. Puma is 3.4". 1 tonne S3 used 1". GM truck is 1-1/8th MC. i'm going to run GM truck hydroboost, GM truck MC and the GM truck power steering pump. hydroboost is 1450psi of pressure on the MC rod with the larger MC = significantly improved braking for less than $1,000. Just offering a different way to think about your braking problem. if i ever upgrade to larger callipers, the foundation in the system is there to take advantage of the larger calliper.

    cheers, MLD
    MLD

    Current: (Diggy) MY10 D130 ute, locked F&R, air suspension and rolling on 35's.
    Current: (but in need of TLC) 200tdi 110 ute & a 300tdi 110 ute.
    Current: (Steed) MY11 Audi RS5 phantom black (the daily driver)
    Gone: (Dorothy) MY99 TD5 D110

  8. #8
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    Wow, thanks for the great advice!

    Wow, MLD, thanks so much mate for the in-depth reply re the full airbag suspension install to your 130 and the Pros and Cons.

    I really think the biggest requirement I have is access height and the ability to get into car parks/garages, as my 45 mm plus raised suspension really taxes my getting in and out with my two titanium knees etc.

    The road handling of my vehicle with the current ARB BP51 shocks as dialled in with the HD springs, and off set trailing arms/caster corrected radius arms/ 1 inch bump stops/double Cardin prop shaft etc etc is very acceptable and I find it comfortable in my Recaro seats. I honestly forget what a standard Puma is like to drive so it’s difficult to compare.

    I just really like the over all idea of the air ride springs and I think the pluses out weigh the cons, certainly, your comments back that up.

    ‘’My vehicle isn’t a regular crawler so loss of travel isn’t a big issue vs ability to absorb corrugations and irregularities. Body roll will be attenuated by the sway bars as well, and lack of roof racks now.

    Re the brakes, your comments are really welcome as well as I’ve not considered extra volume of larger pistons in the system, it’s something not discussed in the marketing so I’ll look into that as well. The only rims that I’ve seen in my research so far that are 18 inch and interest me are the Rally Raids by Bowler and they are around $800 per corner so the price keeps going up.

    The brakes are first cab off the rank in the New Year as I need to replace my current 16 inch slotted discs, so need to consider my options soon.

    Again, MLD I’ll be using your advice as my primary source of info so thank you so much, I really appreciate your guidance.

    Ken

  9. #9
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    Which big brake kit are you looking to use?
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

  10. #10
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    Ken -

    if you are running HD coils, the bellows will be a world apart in handling. it really is rolly polly when the weight shifts. I didn't run sway bars with my +4" Flexi coils and had to fit them with bellows. you get used to it but it's not a sporty or predictable ride.

    One of the motivations for air was to be able to reduce my ride height from +4" to nearer factory. Because I run 35's there is a bottom limit to lift to give clearance to the tyres. You might not have that problem, but I found the reduction I ride height to not be near I expected. I still need a heave how to get in.

    The access height is limited by the internal piston of the bellow. as such -1" is the limit for my bellows otherwise the truck sits within 2" of the top of the piston and aggressive compression (speed hump in car park) means the piston bottoms out. I learned the hard way what happens is you bottom out the piston. results in Big Bang, broken piston mount, bend chassis bracket and about $300 in parts and a few hours of my time to rebuild the bellow, mount etc. lucky I did mine in the carport so i wasn't stranded away from home.

    Not talking you out of it, but I know your car set up and think its not going to suit your needs (other than access height).

    MLD
    MLD

    Current: (Diggy) MY10 D130 ute, locked F&R, air suspension and rolling on 35's.
    Current: (but in need of TLC) 200tdi 110 ute & a 300tdi 110 ute.
    Current: (Steed) MY11 Audi RS5 phantom black (the daily driver)
    Gone: (Dorothy) MY99 TD5 D110

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