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Thread: Rear propshaft to handbrake drum bolts

  1. #1
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    Rear propshaft to handbrake drum bolts

    Defender Xtreme 2004 TD5.

    My problem involves one of the 4 bolts between the T/C flange via the handbrake drum attaching the front uni joint of the rear propshaft. The nut on one of these "studs" from the handbrake cannot be tightened or undone as the thread is stripped. I cannot tell whether the nut or the bolt is at fault until it is removed.

    I can't easily remove the stripped nut so cannot remove the propshaft to replace the nut or bolt. Worst case scenario is that it will probably have to be ground off, or the bolt cut with a hacksaw to allow the propshaft to be removed.

    I will be replacing the 4 bolts & nuts, but my question is: after removing the handbrake drum, is there enough clearance to allow the new bolts to be inserted through the flange, or does the flange have to be removed?

    I have had this area dismantled to replace the handbrake cable about 3 years ago, but cannot remember about the flange. I did not replace the bolts then, but did use new nyloc nuts.

    Any advice would be appreciated; also about how to remove the dameged nut!

    Cheers,

    Lionel

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lionel View Post
    ...... Worst case scenario is that it will probably have to be ground off, .....
    Don't do that ... lest you end up with a fast spinning cutoff disc in your index finger ... not that I'd know anything about that kind of situation!

    If the nut turns and you have a bit of slack now on the nut bolt, this would allow you to jimmy the propshaft yoke off the drum brake with a large levering tool(jimmy bar/screwdriver/etc) just to get some force on the nut as you unwind it.
    If there is a chewed up section of thread on the bolt, and the nut can't unwind past it, the force from behind may help it along a bit more.

    I'm pretty sure there is a collar or ring or something that holds the bolt heads close to the face of the flange .. so flange will need to be removed to fit new bolts.
    Arthur.

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK83 View Post
    Don't do that ... lest you end up with a fast spinning cutoff disc in your index finger ... not that I'd know anything about that kind of situation!

    If the nut turns and you have a bit of slack now on the nut bolt, this would allow you to jimmy the propshaft yoke off the drum brake with a large levering tool(jimmy bar/screwdriver/etc) just to get some force on the nut as you unwind it.
    If there is a chewed up section of thread on the bolt, and the nut can't unwind past it, the force from behind may help it along a bit more.

    I'm pretty sure there is a collar or ring or something that holds the bolt heads close to the face of the flange .. so flange will need to be removed to fit new bolts.
    Yes, there is some slack, & I was wondering about levering with a large screwdriver & trying to unwind the nut, which I feel is the more likely problem than the bolt itself.

    Of course, the bolt will probably be chewed & will need replacing, which opens up a whole new set of problems. Undoing the flange bolt, & if I'm in there I might as well replace the seal as well & possibly a new flange. Grrrr!

    Thanks for the info, though.

    Cheers,

    Lionel

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lionel View Post
    Yes, there is some slack, & I was wondering about levering with a large screwdriver & trying to unwind the nut, which I feel is the more likely problem than the bolt itself.

    Of course, the bolt will probably be chewed & will need replacing, which opens up a whole new set of problems. Undoing the flange bolt, & if I'm in there I might as well replace the seal as well & possibly a new flange. Grrrr!

    Thanks for the info, though.

    Cheers,

    Lionel
    Main seal is a no brainer .. while you're there, for the price makes sense. ALso the felt seal is probably too to change too.
    Flange tho .. I'd asses it on an as needed basis. The major factor to consider is the outer face of the shaft where the seal runs. If it's badly scored, and you can feel it with your fingernail, then change. If it's just marked with and feels smooth with the fingernail test .. just give it a good wipe down, maybe run some super fine sandpaper around it to polish it up again.
    Arthur.

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto

  5. #5
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    As already mentioned get a small pry bar (ok, use a screwdriver then if you must) and force it behind the flange or the nut.
    It happens when people are putting the nuts (new or otherwise) back on and they cross thread it and then force it up, eventually it takes the corner off the bolt head.

    As its a UNF thread its easy to get it wrong, a bit of dirt or slight damage to the thread makes it hard to thread on correct.
    Regards
    Daz


  6. #6
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    Hi All,

    Just to complete the thread, the job turned out to be pretty straightforward.

    I was able to cut the damaged bolt off with a hacksaw - there was just enough slack to allow the blade to reach the thread. After that it was easy to remove the propshaft.

    The handbrake was strong enough to hold the flange from turning while I loosened the M20 nut, then I loosened off the handbrake to allow the drum to come off. Then replaced the seal, removed the circlip allowing the old bolts to be removed, fitted the new ones, refitted the circlip, & then re-assembled with new nyloc nuts.

    The seal running surface on tthe flange was fine, so no problem there.

    All good!

    Thanks for the input, people.

    Cheers,

    Lionel

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