Front driveshaft in or out of phase

Thanks Goingbush, very informative watch, puts on not perspective what was wrong when I had lockers put in the other rig years ago (apart from ****ing the centre’s completely), the wheels would surge as the shaft in the video when driving through soft sand. Didn’t do it when they were rebuilt under warranty
The blokes at Hardy Spicer were very helpful, they said technically it should be rebalanced but as Dazza said, it would be fine to pull apart and put back out of phase but was going to confirm that with one of the specialists at another branch
One of the other fellas from HS asked if the vehicle raised or going to be raised as there is a wide angle version of the shaft, so I have asked them to swap the standard for a WA (I think the wheels in the air action down south is what has put stress on the uni and broke it), not a problem for the change over and to have the new one out of phase
Also asked about a new rear shaft, replacing a FRC2980 with a FRC8389 cheaper than getting the original rebuilt [emoji1531][emoji1531][emoji1531]
I figure 400+k on the originals, can’t hurt to get newbies
All in all I believe I’ve had a win being patient,
I’ll get the right shaft with the right phasing ready for lifted springs,
The kids get to do a few more doughnuts and snakies in the paddocks for another week or so
And I can enjoy a few more beers not having to get under the old girl…….today
(Maybe I might see if I can get under the other “old girl” tonight)[emoji12][emoji12]

[emoji481][emoji481]
Gav

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(I think the wheels in the air action down south is what has put stress on the uni and broke it)

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From the picture it looks to be a typical no grease plus water break seeing the other 3 trunnions look Ok from what I can see..
Regards PhilipA

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Originally Posted by PhilipA

From the picture it looks to be a typical no grease plus water break seeing the other 3 trunnions look Ok from what I can see..
Regards PhilipA

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Greased about 20k ago
Edit: 12k ago
I think it lost its grease going through a few mud holes and the 350+km after the shudder started,but I wasn’t under the car when it happened[emoji1531][emoji1531]

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Greased about 20k ago

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Sometimes grease can harden in the drilling in the middle of one trunnion and it gets none or the seal gets damaged and dies.

One of my Double Cardan UJs went on one trunnion , probably from water from the aircon from over 8 years ago when I fitted drain extensions.
BTw, keep the other driveshaft as to me it looks fine. the measure would be if a new UJ trunnion is tight in the bore where the damage was.

Regards PhilipA

This entry from Range Rovers Net talks about #38A but I am pretty sure it applied to all earlier Range Rovers.

My 77 had the front shaft at 11oclock or 1 o'clock which was 3splines out.AFAIR

The 77RRC had the same driveshaft as a Defender and very similar chassis and axle layout. It is out of phase because the Transfer output has a greater angle than the axle.

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sorry to drag up an old thread but have been experiencing significant harmonic vibration through the body of the vehicle rather than through the steering, which led me to examine the drive shafts. Sure enough on the front drive shaft the rear yoke "leads" the front one by a couple of splines while the rear shaft has the yokes in-line.
I discovered this little "gem" and thuddenly "thor" the light:shock: Prop-Shaft Phase it explains that in 1986, LR changed the pitch of the front axle by 12 deg to improve highway stability and therefore had to introduce a mass damper and rephasing of the prop shaft yokes to take account of the harmonics. The poster has also provided info on a 1986 TSB which lays out an extended elimination process for tracing vibration problems...

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BTW when I lifted my RRC , I had to push plastic hose over the RH spring coils as it used to sing and vibrate on RH curves.

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Originally Posted by PhilipA

Sometimes grease can harden in the drilling in the middle of one trunnion and it gets none or the seal gets damaged and dies.

One of my Double Cardan UJs went on one trunnion , probably from water from the aircon from over 8 years ago when I fitted drain extensions.
BTw, keep the other driveshaft as to me it looks fine. the measure would be if a new UJ trunnion is tight in the bore where the damage was.

Regards PhilipA

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Thanks Phillip

Not knowing the history of the past 35odd years and 340k before me, it’s in my best interest to change the rear shaft as it’s relatively cheap to replace

On the old red rig uni joints were replaced 20 years ago when I got the lockers done and had been greased every tyre rotation and the plan is to change everything over to the new (to me) one when I get a spare 5 minutes (ok maybe 5 weeks) but in the meantime I still need to keep it mobile so I don’t want to strip parts and have it stuck in the dirt

[emoji481][emoji481]
Gav

This might help.

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Originally Posted by spudfan

This might help.

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Thanks Spudfan

That’s in my workshop manual as well, it doesn’t tell you how far out of alignment to have them but the general consensus is 45 degrees
[emoji481][emoji481]
Gav

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Originally Posted by goingbush

Needs to be out of phase.

this might help explain why .

https://youtu.be/gmV4qwLfOMY

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fantastic demonstration which helps to understand what’s actually going on
cheers

Had a call from HS today, they said that they have had issues with the Wide Angle shaft and no longer produce it, best thing they could offer is a double cardan if I didn’t want the standard shaft
I’m not planning on a huge lift (missus has enough trouble getting in as it is) so Alex if they could rotate one end 45 degrees, no problem, no charge
New rear shaft on the way (stuck at the flooded out hwy) so I’ll wait till it arrives and crawl under the old girl to replace both, unless I get low on work, (highly unlikely) then one of the apprentices will have a job to do[emoji1531][emoji1531]

[emoji481][emoji481]
Gav