I've had similar symptoms in both a D1 and a Volvo 144, but in both cases it didn't "come and go" and was due to damage in the pressure plate spring mechanism.
I've got a 110 Puma Defender 2007.
At 336,000km, my gearbox failed and a brand-new Land Rover gearbox was fitted by a gearbox specialist. From the start, it was always notchy and required careful changes to avoid crunching gears. I just learned to live with it.
Now 33,000km later, intermittent problems occur, which makes it hard for a mechanic to diagnose.
• Gear shifts get harder, and grate more easily
• Sometimes I’ve needed to match revs and change without the clutch, as it doesn’t seem to disengage, despite a normal clutch pedal feel. Clutch hydraulics check out OK.
• Sometimes while idling in neutral at lights, I cannot select any gear. So I stop the engine & restart in first, it doesn’t lurch, but it’s the only way to get moving.
• I also have a decent vibration at times, commonly evident at 80kph up a hill, if I apply a little more throttle. If I back off it stops, more throttle and it vibrates again.
• Twice it has crept forward slightly when started, with it in gear and clutch in. It releases its grip quickly.
Any thoughts? These symptoms come and go. Usually OK from a start, then worse around 15km driving.
• Initially I thought a dodgy gearbox. I sent an oil sample to lab and it showed high Iron, which could just be run-in wear, as there was only fine paste on the magnetic plug. No larger debris.
• It really seems like the clutch is not releasing, although the pedal feels good. No rattly spring noise on shutdown. It feels like the clutch plate sticks to the flywheel, or spline, or input shaft to the spigot bearing, but no squealing noise etc.
• Another thought. It’s had the Ashcroft adaptor shaft kit fitted for ages. Could the gearbox guy have not re-installed it properly, and be causing a problem?
Hope someone has experienced this before. Appreciate any help. Cheers
I've had similar symptoms in both a D1 and a Volvo 144, but in both cases it didn't "come and go" and was due to damage in the pressure plate spring mechanism.
MY08 D3 - The Antichrist - "Permagrimace". Turn the key and play the "will it get me home again" lottery.
This was going to be my suggestion, remove the box and have a look.
Personally I would simply suck it up and change out the clutch assembly complete including the hydraulics, generally the only item i dont change is the master as they rarely fail.
The mt82 box should never crunch gears its one of the good things about the box is if everything is correct regardless of how hard you smash the gear stick through the syncros / detents slow it all down which makes for a great chunky shift for a Defender.
Yours I am thinking its all clutch related.
I have heard of other workshops that fitted a brand of clutch (dont know the brand) and they were having the same issue you described, another clutch and it was fine.
Regards
Daz
I would ask what fluid they used in the gearbox. They may be experts but mistakes do happen.
Just to follow up, here's what I found...
I pulled the transfer and gearbox out yesterday. One of the clutch springs had popped out and lodged behind the diaphragm.
I couldn't hear any clutch rattle on shutdown, so I was surprised to see that. Actually, I was pretty happy to see that, and not having to look elsewhere.
This was the second clutch to throw a spring, and it had heavier springs than the original OEM one. I don't know what brand that one was, but definitely much bigger springs.
All springs were quite loose, and with wear marks.
I have a LOF kit coming to replace it.
Cheers
Brid
springs falling out is common to the Ford/Land Rover **** clutch, i do 3 or 4 clutch replacements a month
Regards
Daz
I'm really happy with my LOF extreme clutch. Factory OEM clutches are rubbish I think.
2001 Disco D2 V8
2008 Defender 90
2013 Disco SDV6
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