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Thread: td5 Centrifugal Oil Return Pipe - changing gasket

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
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    td5 Centrifugal Oil Return Pipe - changing gasket

    I can't put my hands on my RAVE CDs at the moment.

    I think I've now located an oil leak on my td5 Defender - from the Centrifugla Oil Return Pipe at the housing end.

    Can anyone comment on how easy this is to do on your back in the drive? Assuming its easiest from underneath that is.

    It all seems very tight to get my fat arms/fingers up there (I haven't tried yet) - but in the end I assume its 2 x 8 or 10 mm bolts; slip out the old pressed metal gasket, replace with new; and retighten bolts. Assume I can do this without dropping the oil so long as I let it sit overnight or something before getting started.

    Any advice appreciated to help decide whether this is a DIY or one for the local mechanic with a hoist.

  2. #2
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    Jul 2018
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    2x8mm bolts. Access is terrible

    Only way I could manage to do it leak free was taking off the filter housing with the drain pipe and doing it on the bench which requires changing the o ring between the housing and block. I also removed the turbo for access however not sure if necessary.

    No need to drop oil.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
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    The new Gold Coast, after ocean rises,Queensland
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    I dont think you can do it on your back.

    I changed mine twice if I recall....once the metal gasket wasn't even there.....but lean in , use a footstool or small steps , take a breath and just do it. You may like to do a dry run , just getting the feel of it first.

    td5's have a number of patience testing "minor" maintenance items....good luck

  4. #4
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    I removed the whole thing and tossed it.

    It's there to take finer particles out that discolour the oil so the oil change intervals could be extended to 20,000 km

    The standard full flow filter is plenty adequate to remove anything big enough to harm bearings, just as in every other vehicle that doesn't have a centrifuge.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
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    latrobe valley victoria
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    Rotor filter o ring

    I’ve just done the oring…….engine was a newer fresh one so fitting was easy……..
    3 bolts ,remove ducting and main oil filter and it’s easy
    [also the 2 bolts on the sump end of the convoluted pipe]from there you can pull the oil cooler if it needs attentionRegards mark
    2002 defender 110 , 1955 86 inch

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
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    latrobe valley victoria
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnp38 View Post
    I removed the whole thing and tossed it.

    It's there to take finer particles out that discolour the oil so the oil change intervals could be extended to 20,000 km

    The standard full flow filter is plenty adequate to remove anything big enough to harm bearings, just as in every other vehicle that doesn't have a centrifuge.
    I can’t see that it’s not a major advantage ….I service at 10,000 kms anyway
    2002 defender 110 , 1955 86 inch

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