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Thread: Defender 130 td5 engine cuts out

  1. #41
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    defender 130 td5 engine cuts out’

    Thank you, Harry, for your info on a 2002 Defender with loose oil pump bolt. I will definitely replace it after reading your advice. MDAkink (Peter)

  2. #42
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    Land-Rover fixed

    I'm happy to say that my clever son John has found what seems to be the source of the vehicle not starting or running. As several of you thought, it turned out to be the crank angle sensor. Not the sensor itself, but a broken wire going into the connector on the sensor. It now runs, but the starting is still a little hesitant. Perhaps the other wire needs examining, too. John also wonders whether we should consider a new engine wiring loom. Anyway, many thanks to all of you who have taken an interest in this. I will report developments. MDAkinc (Peter)

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by MDAkinc View Post
    I'm happy to say that my clever son John has found what seems to be the source of the vehicle not starting or running. As several of you thought, it turned out to be the crank angle sensor. Not the sensor itself, but a broken wire going into the connector on the sensor. It now runs, but the starting is still a little hesitant. Perhaps the other wire needs examining, too. John also wonders whether we should consider a new engine wiring loom. Anyway, many thanks to all of you who have taken an interest in this. I will report developments. MDAkinc (Peter)
    Wiring loom is not the worst idea, but I'd be checking what the rest looks like first.

    With the starting issues, when the nanocom comes, check for faults, if it says "noisy crank" that can be a reason it's hard to start.

    It's usually either a starter motor on the way out creating interference, or something Wrong with the cps itself.

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by shack View Post
    Wiring loom is not the worst idea, but I'd be checking what the rest looks like first.
    The insulation on the wiring going to my CPS was quite stiff and brittle. I replaced it back as close to the place where it entered the loom as I could.

    Not sure about a Deefer, but replacing the engine loom on my Disco is not a job I would relish.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

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    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  5. #45
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    MDAKinc's td5 Defender problems: update

    "Defender 130 td5 engine cuts out"

    Thanks to all the people who have helped me with this problem. I'm glad to say that it's almost fixed. The plug to the crank angle sensor was dodgy. My son John mended it but we really wanted a new plug. I tried J-Car, British Motor Imports, and my local bloke, Tim, who was very helpful. But it seems you can't buy a wiring harness component individually. However, John noticed that there are numerous places in the L-R where this same plug is used, so we pinched a good one from the right parking light, and put the dodgy one in there. We then connected up my new Nanocom, which said there was no problem. Except there is a small problem. The engine runs fine, but hesitates slightly on starting.

    Perversely, if it's been left for a few days, it usually starts instantly, the way it should. But if I run it, then turn it off, and try to start it again, it often goes for several rotations without starting. If I turn the ignition off and try again, it starts immediately. I can certainly live with this, but I want to be sure that this is not something that will develop into a problem after we start off for the Kimberley on 1 June.

    The car had another problem which I've now fixed. My add-on volt meter was reading off the scale on the high side. I discovered a poor connection from the main battery, and a poor connection from the selector switch (main or auxiliary) to the gauge. All good now, but I had wondered if this could have had any bearing on the starting problem.

    I changed the injector wiring harness two or three months ago. Recently we had a look at the connector plug (red) from the engine to the computer. There was still oil in the connector. This didn't surprise me because I thought it would naturally take some time for the oil which started its journey from the engine after I changed the injector loom to reach the computer. We cleaned all the oil out at the computer end, but decided not to open the computer. In any case, the computer side of the plug looked impervious to oil getting into the computer itself.

    My question now for the forum is should I spend $1500 for a (genuine) engine wiring harness before our big trip?
    Kinc

  6. #46
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    Individual wiring harness components are available from Pace in the UK, All Products

    I looked at getting some to replace heat affected wiring. However, I have currently made do with a some dodgy soldiering until funds allow.

    I wouldn't think the whole harness would need replacing unless damage is clearly evident.

  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by MDAkinc View Post
    "Defender 130 td5 engine cuts out"

    .................
    My question now for the forum is should I spend $1500 for a (genuine) engine wiring harness before our big trip?
    Kinc
    The newish plug may be identical on the outside, but be a bit different, loose or dirty to still cause starting issues?
    2005 D3 TDV6 Present
    1999 D2 TD5 Gone

  8. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by MDAkinc View Post
    In any case, the computer side of the plug looked impervious to oil getting into the computer itself.
    It looks impervious, but in my experience it isn't. Mine had traces of oil inside. Now, mine had been opened previously to have a "performance" chip hard soldered in, so maybe that's why.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    ​Getting involved in discussions is the best way to learn.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
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    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  9. #49
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    defender 130 td5 engine cuts out

    MDAKink here

    To bring you up to date on this pesky problem. Since I have replaced the crank angle sensor plug, the engine no longer cuts out. It runs fine once it has started. Until a couple of days ago, the only fault was that it took two goes for it to start. I was starting to think perhaps I could live with this. But then it refused to start after three or four goes, then fired on one or two cylinders, then ran very feebly on a couple of cylinders, and then ran normally. Once started, it ran fine.

    My wife and I are planning to leave on 1 June on a three-month 4wd camping trip to the Kimberley. The Land-Rover has a tipping tray on it at home, but for trips I bolt a custom-made camper body directly onto the chassis instead. We are used to being completely self-contained for days or even weeks on end, and have done many overseas overland trips in this vehicle. But when my wife heard the most recent news of the unreliable starting, she said, "Well, I'm not going unless you get that fixed. I don't want to be camped on some track in the Gibson Desert and not be sure if the thing will start in the morning." Nor do I.

    The Land-Rover has been extensively modified to suit our purposes, so even if a new one were available, or we could get a newer used one, it would be a mammoth and expensive task to re-create all the modifications. So, I am prepared to spend more or less whatever it takes to restore this one to reliability. The frustrating thing is that I still don't know what the problem is. However, thanks to many helpful suggestions from the forum, I am tending to the idea that I should replace the engine wiring harness and, if that does not do the job, the ECU.

    What do you people think? I will as usual be grateful for your opinions.

    Peter

  10. #50
    discorevy is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by MDAkinc View Post

    Injector Seals. These have been mentioned on the forum as possible culprits. These were changed by Bruce Davis last July at considerable cost. Is it worth changing them again? I now see online that changing them is simple. Will the engine run if, say, one injector has not been done up properly?
    It really sounds like injector seal symptoms, and the cost shouldn't be considerable to replace ( <$600 including seals, Injector harness and rocker cover gasket ).

    Turn on the ignition ( engine off ) and listen to the fuel pump, it should be a quiet hum.
    If it has a higher or varied pitch like it's cavitating, that is another injector seal fail symptom.

    The other item I've had to rectify which can have similar symptoms if bad enough is incorrect cam timing after head replacement.

    I don't know if you have had head work done on it.

    Now that you have a Nanocom, see what faults, if any, are logged.

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