Puma 2.4 clutch replacement parts

I just had a quick search on DazzTD5 and found...

if you dont want to wait for parts then find a repairer that stocks the needed bits. Which also gives you an idea that they have done plenty of them.
I buy the below listed bits generally 20 at a time.

I replace as a minimum:
Clutch kit (whatever brand you prefer) (shameless plug: ClutchFix)
LR068979 Cylinder - Clutch Slave (FTE)
LR068981 Adapter (genuine)
LR068982 Valve - Control (genuine)

LR032880 Also being a 2.4 you can replace the Crankshaft position sensor rubbish heat shield with the later 2.2 shield
LR052893 Also fit the 2 shift assembly alignment collars.
Also mod the diff lock assembly so it doesnt plop out of diff lock on every bump

etc etc... so much more to do right

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there is more info here if you keep searching, there is more I have added...

*the flywheels rarely need machining, as in i've only had a couple with hot spots.
*if round 150Ks replace the difflock switch on the transfer case.
*doing the spigot bush if you have the removal tool
*Doing the adaptor shaft between the ford gearbox and land rover transfer case
*tightening up the nut on the back of the transfer case that holds the intermediate shaft in place
*clean any rust off the bottom of the sump as they will rust through.

i think thats it... for now

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DazzaTD5

I just had a quick search on DazzTD5 and found...

if you dont want to wait for parts then find a repairer that stocks the needed bits. Which also gives you an idea that they have done plenty of them.
I buy the below listed bits generally 20 at a time.

I replace as a minimum:
Clutch kit (whatever brand you prefer) (shameless plug: ClutchFix)
LR068979 Cylinder - Clutch Slave (FTE)
LR068981 Adapter (genuine)
LR068982 Valve - Control (genuine)

LR032880 Also being a 2.4 you can replace the Crankshaft position sensor rubbish heat shield with the later 2.2 shield
LR052893 Also fit the 2 shift assembly alignment collars.
Also mod the diff lock assembly so it doesnt plop out of diff lock on every bump

etc etc... so much more to do right

------
there is more info here if you keep searching, there is more I have added...

*the flywheels rarely need machining, as in i've only had a couple with hot spots.
*if round 150Ks replace the difflock switch on the transfer case.
*doing the spigot bush if you have the removal tool
*Doing the adaptor shaft between the ford gearbox and land rover transfer case
*tightening up the nut on the back of the transfer case that holds the intermediate shaft in place
*clean any rust off the bottom of the sump as they will rust through.

i think thats it... for now

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Daz...

What's your thoughts on the High/Low switch on the TF case? There is no related indicator on the dash - Is there a real need for this Switch?
I found that my switch had failed and I have not bothered replacing it. This had a positive benefit (in my case) that I have found when in low range the ECU does not know it and therefore doesn't alter the revs like it did when the switch was working. I've found this to be as PITA and dangerous in some circumstances when 4wdriving...

Thanks Daz - appreciate your response.
I’d already found most of those posts you referred to. I hadn’t come across the sump rust issue though, and follow up the heat shield too.
The LOF kit I’ve ordered has the genuine bleed adapter and valve in it.
Gearbox to transfer adapter was done when I rebuilt the transfer mid last year when they first got the car (they bought it for a good price as the transfer was stuffed and in bits in a box - the previous owner called it quits and just wanted to get rid of it).

Out of interest - is there anyone in AU who stocks the Clutchfix parts?

Steve

Can’t fault the service from LRParts.net or DHL.

Ordered placed 2pm Monday afternoon, shipped via DHL, parts delivered just now - 10.30am Sunday.

Pressure plate even looks LR coloured!!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...57012651eb.jpg


Steve

Can you replace the rivets in clutch plates ??

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...c09859d7a4.jpg


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...fa56829829.jpg

Steve

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Robmacca

Daz...

What's your thoughts on the High/Low switch on the TF case? There is no related indicator on the dash - Is there a real need for this Switch?
I found that my switch had failed and I have not bothered replacing it. This had a positive benefit (in my case) that I have found when in low range the ECU does not know it and therefore doesn't alter the revs like it did when the switch was working. I've found this to be as PITA and dangerous in some circumstances when 4wdriving...

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Thats a personal thing, some people like the anti stall function, others hate it. I'm not overly bothered either way.

While driving a 2.2 off road and down a very steep hill it didnt do the rev up and runaway thing.
But I have seen that happen on a 2.4

Quote:

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Originally Posted by steveG

Thanks Daz - appreciate your response.
I’d already found most of those posts you referred to. I hadn’t come across the sump rust issue though, and follow up the heat shield too.
The LOF kit I’ve ordered has the genuine bleed adapter and valve in it.
Gearbox to transfer adapter was done when I rebuilt the transfer mid last year when they first got the car (they bought it for a good price as the transfer was stuffed and in bits in a box - the previous owner called it quits and just wanted to get rid of it).

Out of interest - is there anyone in AU who stocks the Clutchfix parts?

Steve

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me...

and i think its 4wd industries

@dazzaTD5

Thanks so much for all this info on the parts etc. I've had this issue twice now [Slave pffft] so now grabbing all the "right" parts.

I do have a question. My mechanic wanted to know what would be considered the right mm distance between the Pressure plate and the Thrust bearing collapsed.
He just want to make sure when all fitted the tolerances are correct

TIA

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DazzaTD5

Thats a personal thing, some people like the anti stall function, others hate it. I'm not overly bothered either way.

While driving a 2.2 off road and down a very steep hill it didnt do the rev up and runaway thing.
But I have seen that happen on a 2.4

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Ok... my issue was when u were trying to reverse back down a rocky hill climb that I didn't make it up - I found myself fighting against the ECU wanting to increase revs while I was wanting to slow down & keep my foot off the clutch... Disconnecting the High/Low solved this issue to a point...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ukalipt

@dazzaTD5

Thanks so much for all this info on the parts etc. I've had this issue twice now [Slave pffft] so now grabbing all the "right" parts.

I do have a question. My mechanic wanted to know what would be considered the right mm distance between the Pressure plate and the Thrust bearing collapsed.
He just want to make sure when all fitted the tolerances are correct

TIA

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I dont know, Ive never measured it, well obviously not in situ anyway.
So installed the pressure plate is going to be compressing the slave/thrust assembly (the CSC assembly).
When you pressurise the hydraulics via the clutch pedal/master cylinder it forces the slave/thrust bearing (CSC) into the pressure plate fingers etc etc etc.

There is no reason why your mechanic, me or anyone would need or want to know distance (short of engineering your own clutch, as in different engines boxes bluh bluh)
The distance is going to be the CSC compressed but hydraulics not pressurised to its released state of the CSC but the hydraulics pressurised.
if you look at it from "load on the thrust bearing" point of view then its opposite to older style of slave thrust that has a release fork. (actually not really, its going from load as in the spring on the CSC pressing against the clutch forks to full load of the hydarulics forcing the piston forward thus pressing the thrust bearing into the pressure plate forks)

hope that makes sense...