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Thread: 10P to 16P Fuel Regulator?

  1. #1
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    10P to 16P Fuel Regulator?

    Hey All,

    I've just finished dropping a 16P motor into the defender to replace the old 10P. I had help moving all the ancilliaries across and now I'm having a hell of a time getting it to start. I've purged the fuel system about 10,000 times and it WANTS to start, but just winds over on the starter like it's out of fuel.

    I've been googling like mad this arvo, and have come across a few posts saying the 16P has a different fuel regulator to the 10P. I didn't move the fuel regulator across myself, so I'm wondering if there's some shenanigans going on there and if that could be my problem?

    [edit: no fault codes on the nanocom, have recoded the injectors, it has an NNN ECU already. It did start once after a big squirt of aerostart, and ran terribly for a few minutes before I shut it off.]

    Anyone an expert on this issue?

    Cheers,

    Adam

  2. #2
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    The difference in the regulators is that the 16p has an external return hose, and the 10p has an internal return. The 16p should have a hose that runs from just in front of cylinder 1 intake manifold mounting area to the regulator.
    It doesn't leak oil, Its sweating power

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by woko View Post
    The difference in the regulators is that the 16p has an external return hose, and the 10p has an internal return. The 16p should have a hose that runs from just in front of cylinder 1 intake manifold mounting area to the regulator.
    Any pics of this? I'm home now and the car is at work, so I will take a look at that in the morning. I'm guessing I need a 16P regulator but where does the extra hose go to?

  4. #4
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    You will need a 16p regulator. There is a port in the head just forward of cylinder 1 intake. It's in the same area as the oil feed hose for the alternator. The front fitting has a mount that fits to the alternator mount bracket
    It doesn't leak oil, Its sweating power

  5. #5
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    Slightly left of field to the thread topic, but mine was like this after a trans change. Check the CPS.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    ​Getting involved in discussions is the best way to learn.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tins View Post
    Slightly left of field to the thread topic, but mine was like this after a trans change. Check the CPS.
    Or the wiring going to it.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    ​Getting involved in discussions is the best way to learn.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  7. #7
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    Oh, and a diesel will run on Aerostart no matter the status of the fuel system.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    ​Getting involved in discussions is the best way to learn.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tins View Post
    Oh, and a diesel will run on Aerostart no matter the status of the fuel system.
    not for 5min it wont. I checked every part of the loom before this, everything is good.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by akelly View Post
    not for 5min it wont.
    True.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    ​Getting involved in discussions is the best way to learn.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  10. #10
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    If anyone could provide a photo of where the fuel return line plumbs into the 16P head that would be appreciated.

    EDIT: Ok my head definitely doesn't have the place where the 3rd fuel line plumbs in, but the block is a 16P. WTF is happening here? Are there 16P engines with a two-hose fuel regulator? Or has someone put a 10P head on a 16P block?

    EDIT TO THE EDIT: Ok I spoke with TRS, they fit the same head as suits your VIN, so yes it has a 10P head etc... and this doesn't cause the problem.

    So now I'm back chasing WTF is causing this problem, having ruled out it being the wrong regulator and/or head.... Ugh.

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