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I fitted my trans on my back in what was essentially a paddock. Doing this I got the CPS caught up in the bellhousing. No way was I taking it out again, so the car has a Jag CPS soldered into the old loom, as there's no other way on a D2 other than rewiring and repinning it at the ECU, or replacing the whole engine harness. Runs fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by mfc
Of course, I'm "gunna" fit a decent plug......
EDIT: I don't think the CPS wound up in with the flywheel, but the plug sure did.
Yeah if you're not getting over 11v cranking on the nanocom you're in strife. Probably a combination of a few things, as usual with the bloody TD5... [bigwhistle]Quote:
Originally Posted by mfc
I’m thinking that I’ve got a break in the cps wire below my repair or possibly the fuel temp wires, although both these should leave a code..Quote:
Originally Posted by akelly
Will a buggered alternator stop a td5……I’d think that the voltage drop on a new battery whilst cranking could be a buggered alt[got a spare somwhere] ?
I’ve even bypassed the fuel cut of switch
Good voltage in under seat box and relays checked ……all fuses good..
Headlights [leds ]flashing[ rather than flickering] and dimming slightly on cranking……
I’ll check the connectors on starter and alt when it’s dark[easier in confined spaces]
I’m realy thinking the alts **** its self, killed the battery as I tried to start it on the old battery…
Don’t fancy trimming the loom back for no reason..,the wire is like glass…I’ll cut another cm of the tubing back to make Shure I haven’t melted insulation and it’s shorted.
Opinions or options greatly appreciated
….everything except cranking voltage checks out
Regards mark
one thing to check is that the CPS wires aren't anywhere near the starter - they need to be kept back as far as you can have them from there. Your nanocom would be showing other faults like alternator I think? Having been through this I feel your pain, I was at it on and off for about 2 months trying to get my new TD5 to start. Ended up being about 5 different things and I chased them round and round.
In the end the TD5 is a very simple engine, there's only two things that will really stop it - fuel pressure and the f-ing crank sensor.
I can’t see any alternator on the nanocom…only voltage dropping on cranking,everything checks out …I’ll jumper lead from battery to starter and try that …only thing I haven’t checked yet is that there’s not a short between the 2 cps wires at an older repair….though I’d have thought Ud get a cps or taco code on the nanocomQuote:
Originally Posted by akelly
Otherwise alternator out tomorrow
the CPS error codes are notorious for not showing up. I think (but not 100% sure) that if your alternator was giving trouble you'd get a fault code in the nanocom.
The whole time my CPS wiring was playing up I never got a fault code, the only time I saw one was when I disconnected the CPS and cranked the engine.
Are you getting RPM showing up on the board instruments page when you're cranking it over? RPM needs to be over about 300 (from memory) for the CPU to allow a start.
I had them up until I’d trued to start it……..cleared them…..then purge fuel rail so no more codesQuote:
Originally Posted by akelly
The rpm is somthing to check…I think I’m not even getting an rpm reading
no RPM on the board instruments page = no CPS signal.
A buggered alternator will stop a TD5, but I don’t know if it will prevent it from starting with a full battery. Probably not.
The CPS should at least illuminate the MIL if faulty or if the wiring is defective.