Anyone seen a crankshaft come out this far??

Turn both shafts very gently by hand so that you can stop at the slightest resistance to then turn the other shaft until they're aligned and once assembled, turn over by hand twice to be sure nothing locks.
Interference fit - they interfere with each other.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TonyC

Hi Sam,

That's the manual I have, I don't know if it's the one for sale in the "shop" here.

With the timing pins I have, you have to get the engine in just the right spot before inserting them.

From your photos, the crank is half a turn out, the keyway for both the cam drive and the harmonic balancer should be at the top.
The fuel pump is about a quarter of a turn out, the hole for the pin should be about 10-11 o'clock, yours is about 2 o'clock.

Keep in mind the the crank rotates twice for every rotation of the cam and pump.

If you remove the rocker cover, you will, be able to see if the cam is on TDC for number one.
The number one valves will be closed and the rockers will have a small amount of movement, see setting the valve clearance, the first part of the engine section of the manual.
While this will be close, it won't necessarily be correct. I don't know how you set the cam from scratch, it's not in the Defender manual, I assume there is a 300Tdi rebuild manual with more detail.

The 300Tdi is an "interface " motor that is the valves can hit the pistons, this is what happens if you break a cam belt, when this happens you get bent push rods and broken rockers.
So NO DON'T START IT until your happy every thing is timed correctly, also be careful turning it over by hand.
You should check all the push rods and rockers are OK after what has happened.

Here a link to the people who sold the kit in Australia.
YiCaN supply Zeus Timing Gears-eliminates timing belt problems in Land Rover Discovery and Defender. Website:www.yican.com.au
In the menu on the left hand side there is a link to an article fitting the kit.
"LRE Article 06/02"
Is there anything on the cam gear that could be a timing mark? From the article I think the red paint marks are about lining up the gears, rather than timing marks.

Tony

---

Ok cool, Im replacing the rocker cover gasket anyway, so ill be able to have a look inside. Ill do some research on what kindve damage to look for and ill also see if the number one valves are closed etc. Does the valves reset to this position whenever its turned off normally?

Ill have a look for any other marks on gears tomorrow!

Thinking about this.

The pump and cam are still timed together, it's only the crank gear that's out.

Once the pump pin is in, the cam will be correct.

The difficulty will be turning the crank without knowing were the valves are.

With the pistons at half way, IE the crank keyway at 9 o'clock, you should be able to turn the cam, and fit the timing pin.

Then rotate the crank till the keyway is at 12 o'clock, and fit its pin.

Check the number one valves are closed and rockers loose.

Then try and get the gear back on.

As Grame said, go carefully.

The motor won't stop with number one on TDC, it will stop with any piston coming onto compression.

As for damage from valves and pistons meeting, see this photo Jay Tee posted.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery...ml#post3234845

If anyone can see a problem with this, please jump in!

Tony

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TonyC

.....
Then rotate the crank till the keyway is at 12 o'clock, and fit its pin.

Check the number one valves are closed and rockers loose.

Then try and get the gear back on.

.....

---

I'm imagining that the crank gear isn't going to go on so easily.
helical gears, and not being straight cut need to rotate as it's slid into place, and keyway will fight very hard

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by AK83

I'm imagining that the crank gear isn't going to go on so easily.
helical gears, and not being straight cut need to rotate as it's slid into place, and keyway will fight very hard

---

I agree, it's going to be tricky to get the crank gear back on. And something will have to rotate for it to happen.

Step one has to be get the pump, cam and crank all in the right spot. Hopefully then Sam can work out which teeth on the crank and intermediate gear need to mesh.

The Land Rover Enthusiast article I linked shows the crank gear going on first.

It also says and shows the two paint marks in the bottom intermediate gear lining up with the paint marks on the crank and cam gears.
Those paint marks are still visible in Sam's photos.

Note that the motor in the article isn't a 300Tdi.

As said please jump in if any one has any ideas, or if you think I've missed the mark completely.

Tony

When the shafts are where they should be when aligned, Iwould estimate how much the crankshaft will turn as its gear is slid back into place by following the start and end of a tooth, then turn the crankshaft by that much before engaging the crankshaft gear. Keep an eye on how the alignment is proceeding as the gear is pressed back then back-track to reset the crankshaft for another attempt, resetting the crankshaft left or right by 1 or more teeth.

To my way of thinking, you don't know what damage has occurred - if any.


I would be popping the rocker cover off, coaching for any visible damage which will be either bent pushrods, broken rockers, or stripped or broken bolts holding the rocker shaft down, or any combination of the above.

Valves don't usually bend on these, and piston don't usually hole.

The bent pushrods are the hardest to diagnose and would need pulling out.

If everything checks out ok, I would leave the rocker shaft off, retime anything, then reassemble.

If you do it this way, as long as you haven't already damaged anything, no damage will occur as all the valves will be shut.