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I don't know about stripping them, but it is easy to open the threads up enough on the diffs that the plug goes in too far before sealing (it's a taper plug)
Just for lack of leaks, I always spray the threads of the plugs with Hylomar spray. It should also stop them vibrating out, too.
That maybe what it was. It was more..... gunk, rather than what your normaly see with loctite.
Engine done today. I had a few issues with the sump plug.
The nut on the gear box is 32mm.
Does anyone know if the gear box drain plug can be as tight as the sump plug?
I'm going to take a stab in the dark and assume anything with a copper washer is going to get severely tight.
What is the method behind using a copper washer? Is it because they heat, and expend during operation, and make it tighter while operating?
Service is DONE!
T/Case filler plug was very very very tight, and that was the only issue. had to use a pulling motion with with a socket wrech while pushing away from the car on the chassis rail with my legs. Destroyed a socket wrench... other than that, it was fine.
Id recommend Castrol SynTrans to others. Gear shifts are a lot better.
So...
Engine - Delvac one
F/R Diffs - Motul Gear300
G/Box - SynTrans
T/case - Motul Gear300
TD5 Service kit from Four Wheel Drives - Land Rovers New and Used Spare Parts - Home
79000 km
you forgot "satisfaction- unbeatable".;) I actually stopped using Syntrans and went to VMX80 as i can get it free and found the shift better with the VMX, must be a Landy thing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron