Originally Posted by 
Col.Coleman
				 
			My Interests are in long distance travel so I have Different requirements to putting around on the weekend. I use my vehicle to take me to the places I want to see then get out and walk, I don't feel the need to drive over everything I see. I drive on everything from bitumen to rocks, sand and mud.
I use mud tyres for offroad grip and toughness of construction. In these sizes the road noise is not noticable inside the cab with the air on, rolling resistance is much less than the wider ones in the aggressive treads(how's your fuel economy?), I pepper my car with less rocks on the gibber roads, am more precise with wheel placement in the tough stuff. On black soil roads and clay you want more wieght per square inch to dig down not float(up to a certain point, but after that the road is probably closed,flooded, you get fined for ripping it up or you are not getting through in anything anyway).
Legally I have no problems with main roads, my insurance company or police. Once you start modifying one thing where does it end? As a number of you have said you have reduced steering lock, tyres rub on this and that and you need to lift to gain back the clearence you had. This decreases your stability and at nearly 3.5ton loaded doing 110 in marbles that is something I don't want to give up for a fly**** more grip or clearance to get over something on the weekend that lets face it I don't really need to.
The widest tyre I prefer is 235/85r16. This size is the metric replacement for the 7.5016 but is actually a larger tyre(nearly 32inch and wider). Michelin don't import that in their muds so I use the 7.50. In the wheel ruts my tyres stay away from the rut sides where the rocks lay to stake your sidewalls. It is the jamming of big tyres into narrow ruts and the weight of the vehicle and drive forces snagging the sidewalls that tears them out. Stay away from it and there is less risk.
Taking into account the section v diameter equation the skinnies produce a longer rather than wider footprint which is better for floating your vehicle in sand. In a wheel track you are then traveling on the already compacted sand rather than constantly pushing through the soft stuff. The wider front section has to push through more sand creating more driveline stress and heat in the diff and gearbox/transfer case and uses alot more power hence more fuel. Not too great on the Canning. Of course there will allways be a situation where a little more float would be nice, but there is no 1 solution to everything or everyone would have the exact same tyre.
Contact patch gives grip, yes. But carcass construction, type, sidewall stiffness and tread compound give cornering ability and braking. Bigger isn't neccesarily better, just bigger.
Old cross plies were crap on the road but were very good off it. Bridgestone and Dunlop as well as a few others still make them prdominatly for light trucks and farm equipment that spend 100% of the time off road. I looked at some for my 4wd Canter.
Times change yes and modern 4wds are actually getting more car like and less capable, have less payload and towing ability. The tyres are wider and more like passenger car tyres than light truck.
That's why I drive a Defender. They got it pretty much right first up. Landrover have alot more money to test things than I do and the defenders still come out with skinnies on them. Good enough for me.
Nothing here is personal, just some of the reasons why I choose what I choose. If all the effort and mods in your opinion is worth the effort then go for it. Just bear in mind that there are so many different makes and models of everything out there and we all swear by different stuff, but we all seem to get to the same places no matter what we use. At the end of the day we all drive Landies.