TD5 vs TDCi Under Bonnet Differences

just to add to the mirror thread;)
looks like the convex replacement glass is redily available in OZ
Britax Automotive Equipment Pty Ltd Australia - Product Catalogue

looks like replacing the glass is gonna be easier thani thought:D

and the only one in their cattledog that looks like the defender ones are convex
http://www.britaxae.com.au/images//M...s/4003-189.jpg 4003-189 Heads Universal http://www.britaxae.com.au/images/Br...ax_Mirrors.jpg Mirror head SPECIFICATIONSConvex glass Alt Part Nos Black plastic moulded mirror head, coated metal swing arm H210D165 W140 Features Spare Parts

• Mirror head is adjustable via a ball pivot

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Ok - Slight update on my previous post...

Now at 5000k's,

1 - Rear Diff shagged itself - A new diff was fitted - and it shagged itself on the way home. Will need a third diff.... So here the experience has been the same as the TD5 ;-)

2 - Rear panel alignment to be fixed by dealer - will take them a couple of weeks....

3 - Paint on rear crossmember is to be fixed, it's absent in some areas.

4 - Water leaks through the hinges on the wind screen.

5 - Severe dust leaks through panel seams because they saved $3.50 on seam sealer.

6 - Rear door vibrating - because the dealer no longer fits rubber stoppers to support the tyre. Now an at cost option.


So in summary my experience with the PUMA has been nearly Exaclty the same as the TD5. Perhaps slightly worse because at least on the TD5 they used a tube of sikaflex on the assembly line and it did not leak through every seam.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BilboBoggles

Ok - Slight update on my previous post...

Now at 5000k's,

1 - Rear Diff shagged itself - A new diff was fitted - and it shagged itself on the way home. Will need a third diff.... So here the experience has been the same as the TD5 ;-)

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Ummmm how does this happen twice?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by eksjay

Ummmm how does this happen twice?

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Usually it's driving style/technique...

You need to be progressive with the clutch otherwise you're constantly shock-loading the drive train.

M

Quote:

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Originally Posted by camel_landy

Usually it's driving style/technique...

You need to be progressive with the clutch otherwise you're constantly shock-loading the drive train.

M

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I would be more inclined to say that the diffs are crap:twisted:

On the TD5 the first two failed due to crap ingestion - the bearing tracks were chomped out. I suspect they left weld splatter on the inside or a few bolts lying around. I've done 170,000 k's since then and it's not failed so I'm fairly sure it's not driving technique.

The PUMA - I don't know why the first one failed - just that the pinion bearing developed a lot of slop and a bad oil leak within a few thousand k's from brand new. The replacement - I'm not sure it's making a nasty clonking sound in time with the props shaft and hums like crazy when coasting. I'd love to know how driving technique can damage a diff in a couple of hundered meters.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BilboBoggles

On the TD5 the first two failed due to crap ingestion - the bearing tracks were chomped out. I suspect they left weld splatter on the inside or a few bolts lying around. I've done 170,000 k's since then and it's not failed so I'm fairly sure it's not driving technique.

The PUMA - I don't know why the first one failed - just that the pinion bearing developed a lot of slop and a bad oil leak within a few thousand k's from brand new. The replacement - I'm not sure it's making a nasty clonking sound in time with the props shaft and hums like crazy when coasting. I'd love to know how driving technique can damage a diff in a couple of hundered meters.

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Yeah, with something like that failing within a few hundred meters, I'd tend to agree that it's something other than technique.

It sounds like they just swapped out the diff without inspecting the axle to see if anything else got damaged in the process... Or if there was something else which caused the diff to fail in the first place.

M