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Thread: Handbrake conversion to disc : Defender

  1. #61
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    Hi Goingbush,
    What is that on the transfer case? Is that for extra oil capacity?

  2. #62
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    that looks sweet goingbush I have never seen them fitted up before makes me want one again!! just out of the budget range for us currently
    Our Land Rover does not leak oil! it just marks its territory.......




  3. #63
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    I was just talking to about changing the H/brake to disk today. I was just on the X-brake websit and I dont know if i need a new cable for the Puma with the kit, can anyone confirm .

  4. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tomo View Post
    Hi Goingbush,
    What is that on the transfer case? Is that for extra oil capacity?
    Extended transfer case sump from Roverdrives Canada, more oil capacity and better cooling, If I had a Puma I'd make that number one on the shopping list - they run really hot in the transfer case and reading another thread I see they also have less oil capacity than earlier models because the transfer box is mounted on more of an angle.

    Quote Originally Posted by Dockstrada View Post
    I was just talking to about changing the H/brake to disk today. I was just on the X-brake websit and I dont know if i need a new cable for the Puma with the kit, can anyone confirm .
    Yes you will need the handbrake cable from X-eng or else retrofit a Tdi 200 cable, dare say the X-eng one is the go.

    cheers Don

  5. #65
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    Just fitted up an X-Brake on my Defender this afternoon, not very difficult to do, and I got it when the exchange rate was really good a while ago. I had to buy a new 200TDi handbrake cable, as the newer one don't work. The back of the x-brake is pretty close to a cross member ( 2-3mm) so I'll keep and eye on it and if it look like it is touching, I'll "modify" the cross member a bit to give it a bit more clearance.

    It definitely work a whole lot better than the OEM drum brake, easily holding on a very steep curb on just a few clicks on the lever.

    Whilst I was underneath, I fitted the extended sump to the transfer case, had to put about 3.2 litres of oil back in. It is now pretty close to the exhaust - about 6mm away to the tip of the fins, and the flange on the exhaust is about 10mm away.

    I'll look at wrapping that section of the exhaust to keep the heat out.

  6. #66
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    Bearman is offline TopicToaster Gold Subscriber
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    Have to say that I have found the X brake to be less efficient than the standard drum handbrake. The idea is good but the small size of the pads meant it would slip easier than a standard brake setup. Must admit that I gave it the ultimate test with a 3.5 ton Sharkcat on a steep boat ramp and it wouldn't hold as well. On top of that I had a annoying rattle at low speeds which I found out was the pads rattling. So I ditched it and refitted a standard drum handbrake setup, much quieter now and holds better. This is on a LT95 behind a Suzi. Maybe it would have been better with larger pads.
    Cheers......Brian
    1985 110 V8 County
    1998 110 Perentie GS Cargo 6X6 ARN 202516 (Brutus)

  7. #67
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    as far as the caliper used in the x-eng kit being "over engineered"..... you guys do realise that the original drum brake has more area and holding force than that disc right??

    I have not had it let me down on hills with my trailer on, ever....the T/case and its brake is about the only thing on my 110 that hasnt let me down.

    But each to there own, and yes they would handle water better.

  8. #68
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    The drum on the 90 constantly got dirt and crap in it and often failed or seized on which Ian was constantly taking it apart.....which is why he wanted to change it out.

    a few people did it in the UK for this very reason. (but then I think we played in mud and crap a hell of a lot more than you guys do here as its more rocks and stuff here).

    So hence this thread, however we never actually got round to doing it and as the car is rarely driven now will likely never be done.
    Our Land Rover does not leak oil! it just marks its territory.......




  9. #69
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    I have no complaints at all about my x-brake, done about 20,000k on it so far and still 3 clicks to on, and without needing Schwarzenegger arms and no handbrake light switch issues as before.

    There are online instructions about how to install the pads so they don't rattle.

    my old drum brake was either binding or useless on anything but level, the xbrake is one of the best mods Ive done.

  10. #70
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    I got the x-brake after two near misses. The first was when my car rolled out of a parking bay when the handbrake was only on about 3 clicks. I got a phone call from security as it had rolled across, but had not hit the car opposite, and had also missed the pillar. The was after a trip to the beach where drum got full of sand.

    Second after a muddy river crossing out near Roper Bar, I pulled over and put the handbrake on, and got out to remove the tarp I had on the bullbar, and the rolled backwards luckily I had turned the wheel hard and it just rolled a bit into the bank, not into the river.

    Both times I thought I had pulled it up high enough, but the difference between 4 click and five seems to make a big difference. I have tired to adjust it, but if you get it a bit too tight, then there is lot of drive train rattles and clunks, and it only seems to last a few weeks. I don't feel like having to adjust it every time I come back from the beach.

    The X-brake seems like more reliable way given what I use my Defender for, and $400 is less than my insurance excess.

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