Compressor in Engine Bay

I've just finished converting my a/c compressor to an air pump using a 135 psi off/110 psi -on pressure switch. All up cost was about $130 including moisture separator, inline oiler, air filter, pressure switch, adjustable relief valve, one way valve and misc fittings. I already had the compressor and brackets.

I'm currently running it without a tank and I find that at a 1200 rpm fast idle it pumps up tyres as fast as my 16 cfm workshop compressor. I cant believe I've been using an electric compressor for so long...

My theory is that the valves are the limiting factor in the air flow - many tyre fitters inflate tyres without the valve and then pop the valve in -they get good at it with practice...but not recommended in the bush.

You would need a tank to run air tools, but for tyre inflation, try it without a tank and see what you think. Truck wreckers are a cheap source of tanks and adding a tank later would be easy enough.

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Originally Posted by mark2

I've just finished converting my a/c compressor to an air pump using a 135 psi off/110 psi -on pressure switch. All up cost was about $130 including moisture separator, inline oiler, air filter, pressure switch, adjustable relief valve, one way valve and misc fittings. I already had the compressor and brackets.

I'm currently running it without a tank and I find that at a 1200 rpm fast idle it pumps up tyres as fast as my 16 cfm workshop compressor. I cant believe I've been using an electric compressor for so long...

My theory is that the valves are the limiting factor in the air flow - many tyre fitters inflate tyres without the valve and then pop the valve in -they get good at it with practice...but not recommended in the bush.

You would need a tank to run air tools, but for tyre inflation, try it without a tank and see what you think. Truck wreckers are a cheap source of tanks and adding a tank later would be easy enough.

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Thanks mate

Yeah I have to talk to my boss about a tank, he has one off a truck.

Whats involved in converting an A/C compressor? Fairly straight forward?

I have a mate who is an apprentice fridge mechanic, who says he can get me most parts

Just use the existing hoses on the compressor - one is the inlet, the other is the outlet. Cut them at a convenient location and fit hose barbs to adapt to your air fittings. Theres nothing to convert! It will work just fine as it is.

Fit a $5 inline oiler to the inlet hose and the compressor's lubrication needs will be satisfied.

This link should give you some more ideas:

On-Board-Air Using a Sanden Compressor - Jeepaholics Anonymous

If the setup is only for tyre inflation, you really dont need a tank to start with.

Pressure switch is available from here:

Air Compressor pressure switch 12V 110 on / 135 psi off - eBay 4x4 Accessories, Exterior, Car Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 05-Feb-09 11:28:23 AEDST)

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Originally Posted by Offender90

Getting rocksliders with sill tanks made up - From memory, approx $120 for materials, plus a weekend's worth of work welding, grinding, drilling and tapping. (Big thanks go to isuzurover for all welding work)

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Using the rocksliders for air tanks is a great idea. I'll have to put that one on the mods list.

Cheers, Iain

i've also done this mod to my county - i've put the tank on the rear wheel arch heres a pic of where the tank is and i'll take a pic of pressure switch and a/c/ comp tomorrow for ya

http://i607.photobucket.com/albums/t...county1007.jpg

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Originally Posted by Offender90

isuzurover (Ben) runs a similar setup on his S2a. He uses an air conditioning compressor which is plumbed to a couple of sill tanks (his rocksliders). Airs up his tyres in no time. Perhaps send him a PM if you want more info.

I'm in the process of putting a similar setup on my 90 - I'll take some pics and post when I get home tonight.

Costwise:

S/H AC compressor ~ $80 - $100 on eBay
Getting rocksliders with sill tanks made up - From memory, approx $120 for materials, plus a weekend's worth of work welding, grinding, drilling and tapping. (Big thanks go to isuzurover for all welding work)
Hoses, hose fittings, connectors, regulator and pressure switch - Approx $150, but you may not need a regulator if you only want it as an air tank (I'll be running an ARB locker off one of them)
Getting the sliders galvanised or powder coated - I haven't enquired yet

I think I might have a Solid Edge model of the slider - It's for the 90, so different rear mount, but might give you more idea - I'll see what I can dig up when I get home.

Cheers

Bojan

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Get hold of a Sanden compressor. These are an 8 piston type and pump REEEEALLL quick.
I just had my A/C fixed last weekend and the guy who did it for me swapped compressors even gave me my old unit back with the housings from the exhange unit as a complete compressor! All i need to do is mount it somehow!

You just run a fused switch to the dash and turn it on when you need it or wire in a pressure switch in between and put in a tank so it runs just the same as a normal compressor.
When I mentioned to the A/C guy about what i wanted to do with it, he suggested the Sanden over a York type compressor.

Just make sure you have good filtration on the air inlet and maybe oil it every now and again and you got more air than you will ever need!

Cheers

Andrew.

I found the easiest way to both supply oiled and filtered air to me air compressor was to T into the PCV to inlet manifold hose after the cyclone. Enough misted engine oil to keep comp happy and filtered air. Works well. A 150psi pressure relief valve can be screwed into the pressure switch port of a standard A/C dryer from the outlet port which means you hit the switch to engage the clutch, when the tank and lines are filled to 150psi the pressure relief lets go and you can switch off or use the air as needed.

If its a 300tdi engine the A/C will bolt on nicely and the idler bracket is easy to obtain, maybe get a wrecker A/C, idler, belt and dryer from a disco that is getting parted.

S

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Originally Posted by LOVEMYRANGIE

Get hold of a Sanden compressor. These are an 8 piston type and pump REEEEALLL quick.
I just had my A/C fixed last weekend and the guy who did it for me swapped compressors even gave me my old unit back with the housings from the exhange unit as a complete compressor! All i need to do is mount it somehow!

You just run a fused switch to the dash and turn it on when you need it or wire in a pressure switch in between and put in a tank so it runs just the same as a normal compressor.
When I mentioned to the A/C guy about what i wanted to do with it, he suggested the Sanden over a York type compressor.

Just make sure you have good filtration on the air inlet and maybe oil it every now and again and you got more air than you will ever need!

Cheers

Andrew.

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Thanks Bojan. Your diagram is not 100% - will correct it when I have a moment. Both air tanks run at the same pressure (120psi), but I have a regulated 15psi supply to operate the Maxi-Drive. There is also a one-way valve in there...

Andrew - the York compressor is MUCH better than the sandan. It has a higher flow rate AND it has a seperate sump so the oil stays in - meaning you don't need oil recirculation or a tool oiler inline.

That said, there is nothing wrong with a sandan if you can't fit a york in. I have a Sandan 508 (the larger sandan) waiting to go in the 110.

Does anyone have an endless air type system as well as still have the A/C fitted?

Is it at all possible with a 300Tdi Defender?

Pictures of the brackets would be great if anyone has them.

Thanks

yep theres just enough room to top mount a second compressor over the original compressor but only on the engines with real fan belts and not the big elastic bands.

change the front pully and clutch assembly over for a double pully unit and run a small belt from the normal one to the top one.