So the PUMA goes back to the garage again tomorrow

I think the time you for you being 'nice' and accepting of the dealer is well and truly over. I would be fuming by now and would be notifying the dealer principal that his dealership is about to become notorious to the rest of Australia for all the wrong reasons. Also let him know that you have contacted your solicitor and that all costs will be borne by the dealership including the time and money previously spent driving back and forth due to their incapacity to sort the problem.

Regards
Maggsie

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Originally Posted by dullbird

Doesn't knock on start up and tick over....and its not really a knock its a machine gun rattle. (possible detoantion) and only does it as its about to hit boost 2000rpm only in the morning and when its cold and or damp. it happens every morning unless we go out when it has warmed up a bit late morning and the car has had the sun on it.

once it has done it it will not do it for the rest of the day.......

Although the newest thing it has started doing on occasions is it will do it again 50 meters up the road. this has never happened in the past, in the past it used to do it once and if it was bad enough go into limp mode.

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Hmm, as previously mentioned by another poster, it does sound like the same sort of symptoms as what Toyota Prado and Hilux D4D owners are experiencing - a harsh engine knocking sound when the engine is driven from stone cold.

There's a long thread on this subject here:

pradopoint.com - Toyota Prado 4x4 Landcruiser Forum • View topic - diesel rattle in D4D Prado

Sorry to hear about this issue on your PUMA. :(


<edit: added the following>

Interesting to find out that Mitsubishi Pajero TDs are also getting this issue - this is the first time I've come across this:

http://forums.overlander.com.au/viewtopic.php't=60950

The NS Pajero is only a couple of years old, still the new shape. The poster in the link above recorded the knocking rattles from his engine. Is it the same sort of sounds as what you are hearing?

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Originally Posted by PAT303

What you have described is the identical thing that most D4D owners say.IMHO I think it is the high injector pressure that causes the fuel to burn quicker as it atomizes faster and more completly than earlier engines so that they have a ''harder'' diesel knock.They get the power through getting more punch out of the fuel. Pat

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Thanks Pat..

It really is something you need to hear its not a harder knock its a differnt rattle noise, doesn't sound like a deisel with just more grunt.
I'm affraid its to hard to explain if it was that easy it wouldn't of taken us nearly a year for the garage to hear it. We have had problems with the pressure in the rail as we have had 2 pressure valves changed out. So you could be on the money there.....but the knock that is common to those type deisels :no2: if it was there all the time when driving through the day I would agree...butits only there for 30secs max

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Originally Posted by TimNZ

Hi DB, my 110 does exactly the same thing, although its never been bad enough to cause it to go into limp mode. The dealers haven't been able to replicate it, and it hasn't been cold enough for it to happen again this year.

My 110 will usually do it when I change from 2nd to 3rd when I first drive away from home in the morning, I've found that if I'm not carefull with my gear change and have the rev's too low when I change into 3rd and "bump" the rev's up I'ts far more likely to happen.

All the best with the dealers, I've found that if you suggest something, (ie that the egr is at fault), they will look at everything else first! Best just to drop the car off, drink their coffee, and demand a free loan car!

Tim

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Its not good to hear Time but for us its good to hear as we have been pulling our hair out thinking it can't possibly just be us with this problem:)

And yes 2 to 3rd although we are starting to get it happening on a second go once gone from 3rd to 4th and not always straight after the gear change either.. can quite often be after the change and a couple of meters up the road

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Originally Posted by tempestv8

Hmm, as previously mentioned by another poster, it does sound like the same sort of symptoms as what Toyota Prado and Hilux D4D owners are experiencing - a harsh engine knocking sound when the engine is driven from stone cold.

There's a long thread on this subject here:

pradopoint.com - Toyota Prado 4x4 Landcruiser Forum &bull; View topic - diesel rattle in D4D Prado

Sorry to hear about this issue on your PUMA. :(

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That my point though it doesn't happen on start up the car ticks over as normal its not until you are 300/400 hundred meters up the road it does it and then it wont do it again! but lets just say for arguments sake thats what it is how do you fix it?

EDIT: I have just read that link...its not the same, the rattle is not there on start up...and I don't see how it can be normal if it send the car into limp mode. I'm not convinced it is the same problem if it is its a derivative of it not the same

What it needs is to be hooked up to a nanocom system as it is driven first thing so you can actually see and record what is going on when it happens otherwise the dealers are just taking a stab in the dark. Pat

Nanocom won't talk to a new Defender, Rovacom FaultMate is supposed to but I'm not sure how well it does.

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Originally Posted by PAT303

What it needs is to be hooked up to a nanocom system as it is driven first thing so you can actually see and record what is going on when it happens otherwise the dealers are just taking a stab in the dark. Pat

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well I would like to think that is what the dealers and there equipment is there for:D.

If I'm going to go as far as fault finding it my self which is not possible at this point might as well fix it myself:o....(which is also not possible:D)

I don't know which one works but it does need to be driven with it connected to work out whats wrong.It is pointless and for me annoying for maitenance people to replace parts willy-nilly in a vain attempt to fix faults. Pat

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Originally Posted by PAT303

I don't know which one works but it does need to be driven with it connected to work out whats wrong.It is pointless and for me annoying for maitenance people to replace parts willy-nilly in a vain attempt to fix faults. Pat

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I agree I reckon it would of been cheaper for them to swap the bloody engine out.
Still I don't care about their costs I just want my car fixed.

Part of the problem we think and why the dealer doesn't get it as much as we do at home..although they eventually heard it after a year (up until then it was like trying to prove we weren't lying:mad:) They keep the car garaged over night which means the car sits in a warmer and less damp environment. We asked them to leave it outside as it is more likely to rear its head if its environment is kept as a constant, but they can't leave it out due to insurance purposes:(