An accountant probably worked out they could save 5 pounds per car by not spraying it. Good thinking - not :(Quote:
Originally Posted by chumpion
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An accountant probably worked out they could save 5 pounds per car by not spraying it. Good thinking - not :(Quote:
Originally Posted by chumpion
my 1 year old one has a little rust like described, I cleaned it up and applied Corrsion x (used in aircraft) on all exposed threads and then used anti chip coating on chassis, underside using a underbody gun and oil inside chassis
better than the black gung because you can see if any chips and rust forming where as with the black stuff on the old TD5 it was hiden away more
No doubt was a cost saving measure at the factory
I heard the new defenders were brought to Australia on the cheap as deck cargo on a submarine...:p:p:p:p:p
Seriously I was walking though a car yard looking at a new cab chassis ford ute and it was greatly affected by surface rust on unplated nuts and bolts etc.
Landrovers are not the only ones going cheepo on the painting
I was told by Bias Marine that stainless steel bolts/rivets are alloys worst enemy. A small hole today will be a big hole next year!
Allan
Interesting, can you explain this a little more? Is it some kind of electrosomethingorother? :angel:Quote:
Originally Posted by Allan
From experience and reading others comments the area of most concern regarding corrosion is in the firewall, between the spot welded seams. Very difficult to see.
Erich
yep its electrolysis
in the uber layman terms...
different metals have different charge properties. the further apart the difference the quicker they attack each other and one looses.
Stainless steel beats aluminum every time.
IF it wasn't for this phenomenon we wouldn't have batteries.
Not quite worst - copper or brass/bronzeare worse, but stainless steel in contact with aluminium or its alloys is a recipe for disaster - and it won't be the stainless that is affected! Any marine place will tell you the same. As Dave says, it is simply that you have formed an electrolytic cell.Quote:
Originally Posted by Allan
If you use stainless steel bolts on a Landrover, you must ensure that they are not in electrical contact with any aluminium panels, using nylon washers and sleeves which you should be able to get from any marine chandler.
In my view galvanised fasteners are superior as the galvanising prevents the steel from affecting the aluminium.
John
Hmmm, mine came off that very same ship ... :o I'm heading down into the garage right now for a squizz :eek:
Don't look at the welds on the chassis.... I think you'll find the paint has cracked on all of the welds and the bare metal is showing and rusting. I was lucky that mine came straight off the ship, and was rust free, and the first day I got it home I sprayed all over underneath with Tectyl Wax before it had a chance to rust. (Unfortunatley Landrover won't fix this issue, it would be very expensive to replace the chassis.)
Also don't take a good look at the paint on the rear crossmember which I think you will find is not finished correctly and has already oxidised. In fact the paint is so thin that after about 3 years it will dissapear and the rear cross member will be covered in surface rust. This happened on my 5 year old TD5, but Landrover repainted the rear of the chassis. The paint on the PUMA chasis is exactly the same poor quallity. If yours is showing signs of oxidisation ie is slightly white but goes black when you touch it, then get Land Rover to repaint it.