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		Seller has now remembered that he did NOT replace the rocker gear:mad:
 Yes I had heard of that mount problem but mine is definately the donk.
 As it's a new head with the 3 hole gasket and it was noisy BEFORE he did the head, I'm thinking timing or rocker gear.
 Will do tha timing tomorrow and if that fails, the rockers on the WE.
 Gonna find a warped head with good rockers and swap em over.
 
 
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		that always ****s me with sellers they can't be straight with you from the get go,
 Like i said mine has had loads spent on it just not from the last owner grrr!
 Hope you have a final solution now cliff, so you can crack on.
 
 
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		Tomorrows the big day.:o
 My deisel guy is going to check and adjust the timing measuring the plunger etc.
 HOPEFULLY that will cure the clatter. If not, at least he will be able to lend his opinion to the cause (he is a great guy though and a good tech).
 If the beast is quieter tomorrow....HAPPY DAYS!!:D
 
 
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		:cry: Timing was out but that did not fix the problem!
 The noise is definately @ the top on the motor.
 Deisel recons he can't pick it, other Rova tech is scratching his head.
 It's got me stuffed to!
 It's like something has excessive clearance and is tapping. Appears to be louder on the manifold side??!! But that could be cause there's less junk in the way.
 What to do!????
 
 
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		assuming that all the common denominators of valve adjustment, injection timing, injector substitution, vac pump and accessories have been checked properly.
 
 if the head has been machined because it was "banana-ed" (bent up or down at both ends) then the rocker rod mounts may need to be remachined back into alignment and if thats been done but the rockers are worn then they will be the culprit for the noise.
 
 try this.
 
 remove the solenoid wire so the pump wont fuel and roll the engine over on the starter if the noise is still there (it will be quieter and you may need an electronic stethescope to hear it) then drop the timing belt off and remove the rockers so all valves are closed then wind it over again.
 
 if the noise is still there its the wrong head gasket with the one you have being too thin.
 
 if the noise goes away its time to inspect the rockers and rocker shaft for wear and if they appear normal check the valve springs for unusual collet seating. this might indicate a failing or poorly installed valve spring or potentially a dodgy valve guide.
 
 
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		Reconnected oil pressure switch. When the engine is hot and at idle, the light is on:o But dissappears when revs pick up. Although not good and I now have to take the whole front of the donk off, I doubt it's the reason for the noise.
 Blacknight, the head is new (including valves). It's the 3 dot gasket so it's pretty thick (only the no dot is thicker).
 I'm rapidly giving up on this motor in favour of a new one (well good 2nd hand).
 I will try those couple of tests and see what comes of it.:(
 
 
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		just a thought, recheck the little cups on top of the valves when you get it apart. 
 
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		Yeah, I replaced those when I first did the clearances as on had come off!
 I have an awfull feeling that the screeching noise I hear when I decelerate (engine braking) is the camshaft bearing dry or broken up.
 Access to that is from the back of the donk right?
 I will take the head off first I suppose and the front timing cover to get at the oil pump.
 If I find anything sus I supposed the lot will have to come out.
 Time to hit up the inlaws in Japan to see i they can locate a wrecked 300 TDI disco I can get the whole donk out of!!
 There was heaps of cheap discos over there last time we visited (they are of that age).
 
 
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		any joy cliffy ?
 how's things panning out mate, hope you are making headway with the engine.
 
 
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		Well.....got to the bottom of the bearing noise when decelerating.........front prop shaft UJ totally knackered!!!
 
 Just about to go out and take of the rocker gear (and prop shaft) now.
 Will keep youz posted!