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Dave,
I can imagine that that could happen particularly when there are mixed conditions: ledges and loose gound.
In the Disco I could use the accelerator and brake together (right foot and left foot) to ease down steps and slatey stuff. I couldn't do that in the Defender because it would have other ideas.
(But the 3dr 95 300Tdi Discovery was the best Land Rover ever made)
The puma does have the lowest first gear, but sets engine speed at 1000 rpm no matter what so the 62 to 1 ratio at 1000rpm still gives a faster ground speed than a 40 to 1 ratio at 600 rpm. Going by the spec sheet I thought the puma to able to go 35% slower but because of the idle up runs 6% faster.Quote:
Originally Posted by one_iota
Not an issue for normal driving but if you set the vehicle going then get out to load up or feed out the slower the better.
I have not had any issues with the anti stall, but If you tackle the obstacle in the wrong gear its going stall. If your in first gear with a few revs up its sure to be digging holes before it stalls, antistall or not.
As this post was about disabling antistall / idle up features I thought I might post some reasons why one may want to do so:)
So Dave where did you take a Puma on a test drive that you could experience all of this? :eek2:
I respectfully disagree with you Dave. We are talking about "anti stall" arn't we? Not engine braking? I have never managed to acidently stall a vehicle on a decent :eek: I believe what you are talking about is bad throttle control i.e. geting on it too quickly after using the engine braking. And as for making it do it up a hill I am sure anyone can make their car kangaroo by getting on the throttle at the wrong time, but again to use the anti stall you don't actually have to touch the throttle :confused:
Dave you must live in a truly magical place :toilet::toilet::toilet:
If any Puma "owners" out there are experiencing any of these problems please tell us as I am really starting to worry cause mine might be faulty it's not having any of these "reported" problems :p
Cheers,
Ive read all the arguments between old and new Landrovers on this thread. My Puma has taken me to places my old 300d and series 11 with lots of mods could not do around Exmouth WA. On the other hand my sons D1 went to the same places, with only 2 inch lift and bfg muds, but he has more balls than me and his vehicle is only worth a few grand. Who wins?? Money I gues
Allan
Puckapunyal on one of the advanced fourwheel drive training tracks, and yes its the antistall that does it..
on a ledged descent when you go from engine braking because you're under gravity and overrunning then into a step which means you go from over running to under power then back to overrun repeatadely and rapidly. not helped by ABS+TC coming on and off all the time while the vehicle's cocking wheels on the way down.
technically its more to do with "little engine big vehicle" engine braking dynamics but the problem is exagerated by the higher idle.
And yes like I said, a specifically designed track to bring out the weak points of a vehicle.
the second clip in neutral on the breaks was better for me but on a hard surface still relatively safe.
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I would of thought being in neutral would have been dangerous...I noticed it looked quite steep as your arches at the back had a lot of space in them and I think I saw your rear wheel lift also..
if you had started to slide of tip how would you have got out of that in neutral?
I'm only asking as I don't off road a manual but I was under the impression that there are situations where you need put a little bit of power on.
if your low was too fast can I ask why you didn't just dip the clutch?...surely dipping the cltuch but having the option of being in gear must be far safer
I'll back you most of the way dullbird but when it comes to dipping the clutch thats a no-no. ( I suspect that in this instance it was done purely for demonstrationy not instructional purposes)
When Im teaching offroad driving for technical ascents and descents my teaching is "Once you have the vehicle moving in your desired gear take your left foot off of the clutch pedal and hook your toes under the clutch pedal and pull back"
everything else you sort out with either the loud pedal or the brakes and you dont touch the clutch till you are at the next safe stopping point. (no points for clutch free shifts either)
the reason I teach that way is that in the event of a panic situation most students will hit the clutch instinctively with your toes under the clutch pedal all you get is a foot full of flootwell.
oh sure but when I say dip the clutch I mean with the foot on the brake also which would give the desired effect of what he did in the video only I would think safer as when you come back of the clutch and the brake you are still in control of the car...
I appreciate your supposed to drive off road not using the clutch....but I have also seen people driving off road (this was on the same day) not using the clutch and some very abled bodies using the clutch and I can tell you the people that occasionally used the clutches were the ones that look and appeared to have FAR more control over there cars and what they were doing..
Just an observation thats all
EDIT: I also got the impression that, that is how he drives in the video and he was giving us a demonstration as to why...perhaps I have that wrong though but that's how I took it
ahh, ok, my mis read yes in the instance of the video, I agree, rolling in gear with the clutch in would have been the safer of the 2 bad options.
There are some situations where you do need to use the clutch offroad yes but the basic teaching and the basic rule is keep off of the clutch. The theory is that if something goes wrong it usually goes wrong in a known way and that there is less potential damage in a stall out or by having to rev the ring out of the motor (all diesels have governors so you cant make them over-rev by throttle alone). Its also accepted that if you had the clutch dis-engaged and you drop the clutch hard enough with enough of a mismatch between engine and transmission that you can cause yourself to loose traction (which can be useful occasionally) from wheel spin or from the low speed equivalent of compression lockup (which usually isn't).