Rust Protection

Howdy

I work for a Gov Dept in QLD and I manage a number of LC'S that are on the beach for the life of their lease, we use one of the electronic products plus a septone product of which the name escapes me, it is a tar based product. So far we are really happy with the results on the chassis etc and is resistant to sand blasting the under carriage gets.

However I think if we did nothing other than wash the cars down every day, I don't think that the chassis under body would be significantly affected (other than surface rust), for us it is the things that you cant protect that die, things such as alternators, starters, electrical plugs etc. Interesting our oldest vehicle (16 months) has the most rust damage to the bulbar and the cnr of the door panel where it meets the cnr of the quarter glass.

I can reccomend the septone product which is similar to a number of other brands (tar based), but my biggest tip is to NOT drive in the wet sand areas on the beach and NOT to drive through the ocean. (much like you see in a certain 4WD magazine on a regular bassis)

And above all, wash the car as soon as possible, use low pressure high volume not high pressure low volume ie gurnie.

Good luck,

Ben

Fish Oil for chassis.

Tectyl in a spray can for everything else.

Simple

Went to super cheap the other day and got some lanolin and another product they had soi'll give it ago on either side and go from there.
Don't mind if it "Smells like sheep", i live on a farm it's got to be better then cattle...

If anyone knows the name of that tar stuff post a reply i'd like to give that ago

Lance

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Originally Posted by wisey110

I'm going with Lanolin only coz its cheap and easy to get here. Next time i wash it i'll give it ago see how long it takes before it needs redoing. And i guess to be on the safe side everytime before and after a beach trip.

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cheap it may well be, effective! who knows sheep don't do science.
Cost of a replacement chassis only 1500 quid plus shipping lol

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lardy

cheap it may well be, effective! who knows sheep don't do science.
Cost of a replacement chassis only 1500 quid plus shipping lol

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Yeah but how many rusty sheep have you seen :eek:

Alan

I hand painted my chassis with a brand of thick black metal paint. I gave it three coats, put waterproof tape over the holes, gave it another coat and then waxoiled inside the chassis. I put car wax on the rear cross member and keep it polished. With this method you can still see the chassis and keep an eye on it. The chassis is easily hosed down or occasionally cleaned with a sponge or brush to check it. It is a joy to see how it sheds water. Each to their own. Time will tell.

So should you paint the chassis first of lanolin it first?

Don't think the paint would take to the Lanolin.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dickyjoe

So should you paint the chassis first of lanolin it first?

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Paint first, and if you are going to do that you need to prepare the chassis properly before applying the paint other wise you are creating conditions where water can be trapped in crevices and cracks.

If you use one of the newer two pot paints, for example, you may not need to use an additional protective coating like lanolin. Some paint formulations provide an impermeable layer.

Alan

Guys if you want a real good rust protection for your chassis you cannot beat good old diesel,just take a look at the fuel tanks on my truck,yes dust sticks to it but thats about it,it would be the best protection you could use for the price outlay,i sprayed my entire chassis with diesel in a 10 litre pump up spray bottle,when you hose it the dust falls off but there is always a nice oily residue that water beads off,for all you guys that drive your cars on the beach you deserve it,you would never catch me driving my landy on the beach.....wes.