V8 Camshaft

The Crow camshaft was fine. It disappointed me at first, with normal driving it didn't seem any different to the worn cam, but the first time I towed (2.5 T Defender + trailer) I was amazed. for a carb 3.5 I thought it very good.

With hindsight though I think I went a bit too far, a less tourquey cam would have been a better all round choice.

I did like the way it would stay above 2500rpm with any load on any hill in any gear - including 5th.

Don't know anything about the 4.4 though, I have been told that a 3.9 efi cam works well in carb engines.

Wendy at Crow cams is pretty switched on with profiles.

Terry

Thanks, one bloke who re-build a p76 engine has advised that I go for a Dynatech stage two cam but I have had no luck getting hold of them to find out if that requires mods to the valve timing, I dont suppose anyone on here knows?

Like you say I dont want all torque as the 4.4 has 285ftlbs as standard and I am sure that will be enough to break the 72 rrc driveline somewhere lol

some of the nice timing chain set ups on that dynatech site look nice too!

will chuck an email to crow cams and see what they reckon :)

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Originally Posted by I Love My Landy!

G'day Terry,

I found my V8 with the previous stage 2 camshafts to be very underpowered, especially on hills, however with the early Range Rover camshaft i reckon it now has enough power (well the power is in a more useable rev range). I can keep at the speed limit on most hills, even when fully loaded with passengers and gear.

Overall i am very happy with the new torque my little V8 has.

Edward :)

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Not sure how old your post is, but I could do with some impartial advice. My 91 has been a wonderful vehicle - much upgraded by me and the previous owner and is is excellent nick except the torque has dropped off badly of late and struggles to climb hills etc.

After changing the plugs, coil, filters, fuel pump and air flow meter I can only conclude it is the camshaft causing the lack of power.

It is hard for me to justify over $1k for a Crower or equivalent because of my age, where I live and the limited use of this vehicle. (I also have a 93 with a top-hatted 4.6 engine running dual fuel)

I am tempted by this $440 kit from British Auto parts - Land Rover Parts - CAMSHAFT KIT 3.9 V8 early (1991-94) (original spec, click for kit contents) However, there have been reports that some "cheap" camshafts wear out after a very short time.

Your (and others) comments would be much appreciated

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Originally Posted by aussiebushman

Not sure how old your post is, but I could do with some impartial advice. My 91 has been a wonderful vehicle - much upgraded by me and the previous owner and is is excellent nick except the torque has dropped off badly of late and struggles to climb hills etc.

After changing the plugs, coil, filters, fuel pump and air flow meter I can only conclude it is the camshaft causing the lack of power.

It is hard for me to justify over $1k for a Crower or equivalent because of my age, where I live and the limited use of this vehicle. (I also have a 93 with a top-hatted 4.6 engine running dual fuel)

I am tempted by this $440 kit from British Auto parts - Land Rover Parts - CAMSHAFT KIT 3.9 V8 early (1991-94) (original spec, click for kit contents) However, there have been reports that some "cheap" camshafts wear out after a very short time.

Your (and others) comments would be much appreciated

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Give Steve a call and ask him about the quality of the cam, he's really good he won't bull**** you about it. If it's a not the best quality he will tell you and where to go from there or order one In for you. He's helped me out plenty of times a little pricy sometimes but he knows his ****.
Cheers Jim

IMHO having modified a77 and 91 V8 , the cam is the last thing you should change.
l
The most bang for the buck for a 91 is to fit a Unichip which will control the advance curve and this will give about 30% increase in torque from 1500 tapering to 3000.

While I modified the heads which gave about 7%,fitted Mustang injectors,and a Thor inlet manifold,the Unichip was probably the best investment,although the Thor was also great and ended under up with Unichip giving 50% more torque down low traded for 10% up high.

This is all Dyno confirmed.
In my experience from long ago threads it seems to me that all these cam companies think you are fitting cams to a car with a high power to weight ratio not a 2 tonne 4 we’d which sits at 2100 rpm at 100 kms, and needs torque there, not at 3000.
regards Philip A

Yea, LR did very well to keep the D2 max torque to 2600,,
Have yet to find an aftermarket supplier that has it that low,,

Thanks for your comments. Actually there has been a development and not a good one - though it might help to identify the source of the problem.

Since my last post, I unscrewed and cleaned the stepper motor (without removing the mounting block) and sprayed it with electrical parts cleaner. It was not particularly dirty but the plunger seemed very stiff and did not want to move. Is this the likely culprit?

I also stripped the MAF sensor and sprayed the wires too- no I did not poke anything into the hole to cause damage! I do have access to a replacement if you think that might be worth trying.

Drove the vehicle up a couple of steep hills on the property today and it WAS WORSE. Not only does it still lack torque but it the engine is now cutting out and/or pulsing. This seems to me that the problem is NOT the camshaft - that has not been touched,

I may not have mentioned that I live in the bush 1.5 hours from the nearest reliable mechanic so getting professional test measurements etc is pretty near impossible if the vehicle is not reliable to get me there and back

Any suggestions?

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It was not particularly dirty but the plunger seemed very stiff and did not want to move. Is this the likely culprit

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You should not try to move the plunger.
it is a worm arrangement inside which is rotated by a stepper motor. Just like a D3 park brake LOL.
I pulled one apart as I was curious.
The stepper however is not the problem as it only affects idle as it provides a bypass from the throttle blade.

If the cam is very worn, it will not open valves so the engine will lack torque and may miss . I had it happen to me on Cape York and it progressively got weaker on the way home.
A compression test should indicate whether you have a blown head gasket or worn cam.
Regards Philip A

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Originally Posted by rover-56

Gday Edward,
Thanks for the reply (sorry I have been off the air thanks to the usual ipstar satellite hassles :mad:). I hadn't thought of an earlier rover cam, I will look up the specs an compare them with the Wade and Crow torque cams.
I have never driven a Rover V8 that didn't have power problems of some sort or other, so I don't know how it is supposed to perform anyway. (late 85 County with 5 speed box). All I know is my TD5 auto Disco leaves it behind on hills.
I would really like to get it right first time.
Thanks again.
Terry

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I have a D1. 1995 V8. 3.9. 300,000. Goes like stink. They are not highway miles. Original camshaft. Most V8's pur up over those miles without issue. My D1 stock is quick and silky quiet and smooth. Cheers

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Originally Posted by PhilipA

You should not try to move the plunger.
it is a worm arrangement inside which is rotated by a stepper motor. Just like a D3 park brake LOL.
I pulled one apart as I was curious.
The stepper however is not the problem as it only affects idle as it provides a bypass from the throttle blade.

If the cam is very worn, it will not open valves so the engine will lack torque and may miss . I had it happen to me on Cape York and it progressively got weaker on the way home.
A compression test should indicate whether you have a blown head gasket or worn cam.
Regards Philip A

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Thanks Philip and apologies for the delay in responding.

Have managed to achieve some improvement after I saw a post dealing with the wiring from the coil being too close to the alternator so I have moved it well clear. I also cleaned out the breather in the rocker cover - absolutely disgusting mess of rusted wire.

I do have a compression tester but not sure how to tell whether a camshaft or something else is the reason torque is still not good. However, at least now I should be able to drive it without fear of being stranded - again!