Waste of a day - rear a frame ball pivot.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by yt110

Make sure you put some oil on the threads of the bolts before you put it back together,if the threads are dry the nut will get tight on the thread before the centre tube has been nipped up and tighten them with the suspension at normal road height You could get 1/2" longer bolts and then cut 1/2" off so there is more shank in the centre tube.

---

Ta yt110, that was what I was thinking too! I always prefer to tighten nuts instaed of bolts, but I don't have a choice here.

Rick, were the bolts/bushes expensive?

I'm off to have a go this morning, will let you all know how it goes.

Cheers for the help,

Fraser

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by fraser130

Ta yt110, that was what I was thinking too! I always prefer to tighten nuts instaed of bolts, but I don't have a choice here.

Rick, were the bolts/bushes expensive?

I'm off to have a go this morning, will let you all know how it goes.

Cheers for the help,

Fraser

---

I also used super pro, from memory the entire car cost approx $330.00

Oh well, the 27mm socket I have is too small, the 30mm is too big.......off to a mates place the other side of town to use his tools, I need to drop some stuff there anyway for them to take camping....

Fraser

Job Done!
Bushes were as new except the ends of the tube had worn so it was too short to be grabbed when bolts were tight, 2 high tensile spacing washers later, all bloody tight!
$14 for 10 washers, $13 for 1 1/8" socket
Will see how it goes while away.
Also found the rubber bushes on the chassis end of the steering damper are perished, going to pop out to bursons and grab a pair.....

Thanks all for your advice etc.

Fraser

Frase, it was quite a few years back I swapped mine out and the OE bushes themselves were fine, but the inside of the crush tubes had ovalised and the bolts were worn undersize from the relative movement.

The new bushes and bolts cured the rear steer problem I had at the time ;)

One of the new Super Pro crush tubes was a little over size on the ID, so I rolled some shim stock inside it to take the slack up, just so the bugger couldn't start to move. I've never been able to jimmy any movement in it since.

Thanks Rick.
What I've done will do for the next trip away (end of this week), when we get back I'll put in new bushes and bolts.
The "clunk" I thought was free play in the transmission (axles, diff's, centre diff) has now gone!!!!
Very happy chappy, I don't need to shift so gently now.

I've also been having slight issues at cruising at 100 - 110 with going dead straight, I hope it's been rear steer.
One of the tapers on the drop arms for the front sway bar was flogged out, I drilled it out and pressed in a new taper a mate made up, and that's helped heaps, but I expect the A-frame bushes may also be contributing.
Nothing more tiring than driving a heavily loaded car that won't steer straight for hours on end, is there?

The camper is quite heavy when all loaded up for a week's stay somwhere, if it's still not up to scratch this trip, I'll look at a heavier rear sway bar, or a second rear one with disconnects.

Cheers,

Fraser