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Thread: Goingbush's Electric Vehicle project

  1. #141
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Yarrawonga, Vic
    Posts
    3,865
    Had a good increase in battery range, due to the fitment of Radials and I installed an x-brake disc handbrake in place of the drum handbrake , the shoes were oil soaked in usual Series LandRover style, which must have created considerable drag. Todays test drive managed 65km with 50% charge remaining, happy with that.




  2. #142
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Dubbo
    Posts
    484
    Quote Originally Posted by goingbush View Post
    WOO HOO, E-Series Passes VASS inspection , the Inspector said it was better than some commercial conversions he has seen.

    I just need to install an Inertia switch as found on a Td5 Defender Firewall (anybody got a spare) and get my charge lead test and tagged .

    I had to put radials on it too (for the brake testing) , so got some Kumho 225/75R16 & wow , what difference , It will almost roll an extra 15-20km per tank. Looks don't suit but hey , I can still put the cross plies on any time.

    Maybe some 7.50/R16 radials would suit a bit better.
    Mine:
    MY15 130 Crew Cab Chassis

    In the family:
    '65 Series 2A SWB
    '94 Discovery 300Tdi Auto
    2016 Discovery 4 TDV6

  3. #143
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Yarrawonga, Vic
    Posts
    3,865
    Quote Originally Posted by Beery View Post
    Maybe some 7.50/R16 radials would suit a bit better.
    7'50's would fill the guards out better but the reason I went for the 225's is it put the Motors sweet spot (if you could call it that) closer to 100kph in 4th and still have some left. Electric motors are more efficient at higher RPM and they all need gearing for automotive applications.

    3564 RPM @ 100kmh with 750-16 vs 3956 RPM @ 100kmh with 225's .
    This is also the reason I took the overdrive off - absolutely no need for it. Would be even better with a 1:1 High range transfer box , the Series is 1:1.148 high.

    With the smaller tyres I theoretically get more battery range and though I can take off and drive around town in 4th its happier in 3rd gear & I just slip it into 4th for the highway , mainly to cut back on gear noise.

    With reference to the graph, its not always pulling 450 Amp at 100kph , only if you have your foot flat to the floor & accelerating , most driving around is between 50-200 amps .


  4. #144
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Dubbo
    Posts
    484
    Quote Originally Posted by goingbush View Post
    7'50's would fill the guards out better but the reason I went for the 225's is it put the Motors sweet spot (if you could call it that) closer to 100kph in 4th and still have some left. Electric motors are more efficient at higher RPM and they all need gearing for automotive applications.

    3564 RPM @ 100kmh with 750-16 vs 3956 RPM @ 100kmh with 225's .
    This is also the reason I took the overdrive off - absolutely no need for it. Would be even better with a 1:1 High range transfer box , the Series is 1:1.148 high.

    With the smaller tyres I theoretically get more battery range and though I can take off and drive around town in 4th its happier in 3rd gear & I just slip it into 4th for the highway , mainly to cut back on gear noise.

    With reference to the graph, its not always pulling 450 Amp at 100kph , only if you have your foot flat to the floor & accelerating , most driving around is between 50-200 amps .

    You've obviously given this plenty of thought!
    Is 4th gear direct drive on those gearboxes? That'd make it the most efficient one for most conditions as you're not actually putting drive through the gears.
    Mine:
    MY15 130 Crew Cab Chassis

    In the family:
    '65 Series 2A SWB
    '94 Discovery 300Tdi Auto
    2016 Discovery 4 TDV6

  5. #145
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Yarrawonga, Vic
    Posts
    3,865
    Quote Originally Posted by Beery View Post
    You've obviously given this plenty of thought!
    Is 4th gear direct drive on those gearboxes? That'd make it the most efficient one for most conditions as you're not actually putting drive through the gears.
    Yes, 4th is direct drive from input shaft to output shaft , giving the layshaft no stress, but the gears being in constant mesh are all still turning. I tried thinner synthetic oil to reduce drag but finds more places to leak !! 4th is a lot nicer on overrun too because regenerative braking puts reverse load on 3rd & does not sound happy, so I back off regen if using 3rd .

    Ultimately I have more than enough range for my current use, so don't really need more efficiency gains.

  6. #146
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Sunbury, VIC
    Posts
    12,922
    You bringing this over to Corowa? Would love to look over it in person. 👍


    1977 101 FC - 'Chucky'
    1986 Classic RR - 'Thing'
    1976 Series III Tray
    1997 Honda CBR1000F
    2003 L322 - Gone to a new home.

    I don't know how to act my age - I've never been this old before...

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