G’day,
Is the gearbox and transfer case actually required at all? Could you just get away with the electric motor driving the rear of the car and the transfer case only with front lock and not a low reduction?
Richard
Printable View
G’day,
Is the gearbox and transfer case actually required at all? Could you just get away with the electric motor driving the rear of the car and the transfer case only with front lock and not a low reduction?
Richard
My little electric motor is only 88hp and 108ft-lbs of torque , thats not much torque even if it is there from zero, So some form of gear reduction to turn it into useful values, might as well use the existing gearbox and transfer case. Typically I just leave it in top gear high range which is 5.45:1 which is fine for cruising around town but useless in the bush . for V8 killing acceleration High 2nd is good = 12:1Quote:
Originally Posted by dickyjoe
def need low range for low range 4WDing.
A Bollinger has 2 speed transfer case for each front and rear motor as well as portal axle reductions.
Most factory EV cars have something between a 7:1 to 10:1 single / fixed gear reduction .
this video might help, its in Low range.
https://youtu.be/Scv2z6u-S0w
I've decided I don't need Vacuum assist , well actually I disliked the sound of the 12V Vacuum pump that chattered every time I used the brakes was more the impetus. (was noisiest part of the car at slow speed ) Most of the braking is done via regenerative braking ( braking effort is converted to electricity and goes back into the battery) and the friction brakes are only used to come to a complete stop.
Have moved the pushrod pivot further up the pedal arm for a better Mechanical Advantage
(view looking through pedal box into pedal arm pivot point )
http://goingbush.com/AULRO/233-1.jpg
http://goingbush.com/AULRO/233-2.jpg
http://goingbush.com/AULRO/233-3.jpg
Demo of the amount of throttle torque control, this is all in 2nd gear Low, Hill descent control less than 1kmh in 1st gear .
https://youtu.be/ndLEPLwDR0M
It may have been mentioned earlier in the thread but may I ask:
1. What's the range / charge of your vehicle on road (mixed driving)
2. What charge methid do you use? ie 15W power point or 3 phase charger thing or... ?
3. How log does it take to fully charge?
Thanks
I only have a small 28.8kwh LiFePo4 battery.Quote:
Originally Posted by VladTepes
The car has a 3.3kw onboard charger , it plugs into a 15Amp powerpoint and draws about 12.5 Amps .
I added a digital KWh meter to the fusebox where my 15A power point is . Ive done 6800km since conversion and done 3600km since installing the meter. Over the last 3600km Ive used 918kwh which averages at 28.5 kwh per 100km , ( A Nissan Leaf gets about 22 kwh per 100km)
Even though there is enough battery for 100km I typically charge it at 50-60km , which is once every 2 or 3 days . It would take about 8hours to charge from fully flat , about 4 hours from 50% .
Hmm so obviously a bigger battery would mean more range but also more charge time presumably.
I guess that's the downside of that charger type. Using a setup that has 'fast charge' being more expensive and requiring a place to charge it (given the fast charge points are worth $100K I think)
The very expensive way of doing it being to buy a Nissan leaf and transfer the components across:
ELECTRIC HOLDEN TORANA E-A9X
You any good with computers? If so this may be of interest for the 'instruments' and car control stuff.
Teslonda: the Tesla / Honda powered by Raspberry Pi - The MagPi MagazineThe MagPi Magazine
I see Hyundai's new Kona EV claims a 445km range so, even allowing for a bit of exaggeration, that's still pretty good.
Double the batteries = double the range, but simply install a readily available 6.6kw charger and 32Amp power outlet for same charger time , or a 3 phase charger .Quote:
Originally Posted by VladTepes
Some conversions are done using Nissan Leaf motors & Electronics. You can buy a salvage Leaf & import it under 10K , a lot cheaper and better than my conversion.
London Electric Cars are planning a kit to enable Leaf components into a LandRover.
A Leaf motor unbolts from the transaxle and can be bolted direct to a Landy TC with appropriate adaptor and 2:1 planetary reduction box. (or keep gearbox)
Tesla motors are no good for Landy Conversions but great for VW or any other car you want to re-engineer for IRS . However Tesla batteries yes , very useful.
I'd have thought that putting 3-phase power to a residence just to charge a car suddenly makes that a very expensive uneconomic proposition.
Are you able to point me to more info onplease?Quote:
simply install a readily available 6.6kw charger and 32Amp power outlet for same charger time
I've an urge (but not currently the money) to make an electric road car of an Aussie 70's Ford LTD.