Yes but The Electric motor bolted straight onto the transfer case would be fine.
Don't need reverse gear as there is a toggle switch for that .
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Yes the motor bearings are capable of taking thrust load, the hub adaptor sits flush against a step in the motor shaft .
Im using a clutch because its easier to convert vehicle back to standard down the track.
Here is a link to Canadian Electric Vehicles who made the adaptor, about why they prefer to retain the clutch.
Canadian Electric Vehicles Ltd. - Adapters (bottom paragraph)
In practice I don't think I'll even need the clutch to change in and out of low range, I doubt it will get much use , except experimenting with different gears / efficiencies.
Im scratching my head about everything I need to do to make this kit fit, I can imagine the problems someone will have expecting it to just fit & work !!
The .2mm radial runout I discovered is caused by the incorrect flywheel bolts .
The original Landy Flywheel bolts are 7/16 UNF with a 11.5mm shoulder that fits the flywheel holes, The CEV Flywheel adaptor has 7/16 NC thread - bloody inconvenient . I can not find any NC bolts with a short shoulder . So I got a length of 12mm steel rod from Bunnings , bored a 9.4mm hole & tapped 7/16 NC , cut off short sections , loctited to bolts & machine down to 11.5mm .
Now the flywheel centralises on the new bolt shoulders & runout eliminated.
I can imagine that without these shoulders , back & forward action of on/off throttle with all that torque as well as regen braking would have the flywheel rocking on the bolts in no time .
Also trim the top of the bolt head as they were a bit close to the friction plate springs for comfort.
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Just wondering ............................. where/how do you source 12v for non engine electrics ?
Deano :)
Some people mount a pulley & alternator on the front Auxilliury shaft but I am using a 144 to 13.8 -50 Amp DC/DC Converter .
one of these 144V Input, 12V 50A Output, Waterproof 600W Isolated DC-DC Converter USA Stock! | eBay
this guy does not ship to Australia so I checked AliBaba & found the manufacturer who will sell for US $110 shipped .
You can run your 12V system direct from this , but the System voltage (144v) must be isolated which means you need a small battery to energise relays & precharge contactors etc . I'll probably use a small deep cycle 12v about Lawnmower battery size.
AS well as the 12v lights, wipers . horn etc I'll be running a 12v vacuum pump for the brakes & 12v blower to supply cool filtered air to keep the motor from getting dust / moisture etc . And a 12v heater element to satisfy ADR demister requirement. I think 50Amps should be heaps but I might install a 2nd converter for redundancy.
Pulled seatbox out for better access to Remove Fuel tanks and fuel lines . Im making battery boxes to go in their place, I thought 10 cells in each box but it works out to 12 in each box . leaving 21 to go under bonnet.
One thing I'm not going to miss is filling these Tanks , series One style , Did I mention I hate the smell of petrol !
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I should really pull the gearbox out and put a seal set through it , its never going to get easier than this and it does leak - a lot !
At the risk of asking a dumb question [bigsmile1], why not (theoretically) remove the gearbox and clutch assembly and fit the motor directly to the transfer case ? as this could then free the whole engine bay for batterys as well as significant weight saving. Maybe run an alternator or vacuum pump from the PTO output ? Is the DC torque going to be an issue with the 'old' transfer case ?
Deano :}