Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 21 to 24 of 24

Thread: MPPT or PWM solar controller?

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Hobart
    Posts
    3,310
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hi,
    How many connections?
    Minimum needed is 2,
    1) solar panel
    2) battery

    If you have 3, the third one should be for the load, and it will probably have a low voltage protection built in to protect the battery from drawing down too far.
    You may like to wire at least one light directly to the battery so you won't suddenly be in the dark.
    As mentioned above, the instructions should explain it.
    Cheers

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Geraldton WA
    Posts
    8,284
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by austastar View Post
    Hi,
    How many connections?
    Minimum needed is 2,
    1) solar panel
    2) battery

    If you have 3, the third one should be for the load, and it will probably have a low voltage protection built in to protect the battery from drawing down too far.
    You may like to wire at least one light directly to the battery so you won't suddenly be in the dark.
    As mentioned above, the instructions should explain it.
    Cheers
    I have installed the new MPPT controllers on the boat and the Nissan and the fridges will run directly from the battery or from the "Load" outlet.
    I disconnected the solar panel to replicate night time conditions and the fridge still runs so I may leave them set up running from the "Load" outlet for now
    You only get one shot at life, Aim well

    2004 D2 "S" V8 auto, with a few Mods gone
    2007 79 Series Landcruiser V8 Ute, With a few Mods.
    4.6m Quintrex boat
    20' Jayco Expanda caravan gone

  3. #23
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    West Gippsland - Victoria
    Posts
    2,907
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by trout1105 View Post
    So do i run the fridge/fridges from the batteries or from the load outlet on the MPPT controller?

    The 'load' connection on the solar controller is in most cases irrelevant and all you need to do is connect the solar panel and battery with your load distribution connected to the battery, leaving the 'load' connection unused. This is what most people do.

    What the 'load' connection does is to allow a timer controlled output from the controller and depending on the controller the ability to measure output (load) current. A typical example of this would be to automatically switch a light on and off. eg. at night time in a toilet at an unattended solar powered site. Not particularly useful in an automotive situation but could be used for example in a campervan to automatically switch the fridge off/on at night if the compressor noise was a problem whilst trying to sleep. In some controllers load current can be displayed giving the user an 'all in one' monitoring device without the need of additional meter(s). In this scenario the solar reg is left in its (usually default) mode of 'always on 24/7'. The downside of this is if the electronics fail in the timer/current measuring circuitry then you've got no power to the load ie. fridge and your beers hot and SWMBO's ****ed cos the foods gone off.

    IMO best left unused.

    Deano
    66 SIIA SWB .......73 SIII LWB diesel wgn
    86 RR 'classic'......99 Range Rover P38a
    94 Defender 110..95 Defender 130 Ute
    96 D1 300TDi.......99 D2 TD5 (current)
    04 D2a Td5..........02 Disco 2 V8

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Geraldton WA
    Posts
    8,284
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by DeanoH View Post
    The 'load' connection on the solar controller is in most cases irrelevant and all you need to do is connect the solar panel and battery with your load distribution connected to the battery, leaving the 'load' connection unused. This is what most people do.

    What the 'load' connection does is to allow a timer controlled output from the controller and depending on the controller the ability to measure output (load) current. A typical example of this would be to automatically switch a light on and off. eg. at night time in a toilet at an unattended solar powered site. Not particularly useful in an automotive situation but could be used for example in a campervan to automatically switch the fridge off/on at night if the compressor noise was a problem whilst trying to sleep. In some controllers load current can be displayed giving the user an 'all in one' monitoring device without the need of additional meter(s). In this scenario the solar reg is left in its (usually default) mode of 'always on 24/7'. The downside of this is if the electronics fail in the timer/current measuring circuitry then you've got no power to the load ie. fridge and your beers hot and SWMBO's ****ed cos the foods gone off.

    IMO best left unused.

    Deano
    I had an auto sparky install the solar setups in the van and the 79 series and the MPPT controllers in these have the "Load" connection unused, I will do the same
    You only get one shot at life, Aim well

    2004 D2 "S" V8 auto, with a few Mods gone
    2007 79 Series Landcruiser V8 Ute, With a few Mods.
    4.6m Quintrex boat
    20' Jayco Expanda caravan gone

Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!