EV general discussion

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Originally Posted by Homestar

Yes, but the same as a realistic average fuel consumption for an ICE vehicle isn’t hard to work out based on asking a few people who own them - and this figure also isn’t close to what the car makers claims are so they are deliberately fudging the figures - not trying to get close as that’s what they all do and none of them are going to be the first to change that. Same for EV - BS claims that can be proved to be BS just by looking at some real world examples after a few months of that vehicle being in the real world.

It wouldn’t be hard to come up with an average that was closer to the truth but there is no will to do it.

As I said, with EV’s this issue is compounded as when I read post after post of owners not getting within a bulls roar of the claimed figures, it just hurts EV’s in general.

There are plenty of EV’s that claim 350 to 400KM - which is the distance to my Mums place - no charging stations to be seen either out there, so would I buy an EV that claims 400KM when it will probably only do 300 and leave me stranded before I get there or do I need to lash out on something that claims 500 plus KM - there aren’t too many of those about and the prices are eye watering - or do I just buy a new ICE vehicle as even if I bought one with a 100KM range there are 8 servos along the way.

Answer is pretty obvious and I’m far from the only one who is worried about range for these sort of trips. In 10 years their may be a charger somewhere along there but I’ll be retiring about then and who knows where Mum will be.

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But with ICE cars it's not the makers fudging anything, thay are doing a government mandated test, and providing the results as required by law.

Are EV range numbers the same? IE: government mandated tests?

The test needs to change, so if I get in a car and drive from Melb to Sydney on a mid 20s day with the aircon on 18, on cruse control at 110km/h, I will achieve the extra urban number.

At the moment it's just a tool to compare one car to another.

Tony

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Originally Posted by NavyDiver

Agree with that Tombie. The cheapish relative MG should be just fine for around 50-200km if they fix the software or give me another one or money back.

My right tool needed 10% of my times is a Disco range 800+km with 4WD and 3.5 t tow capacity - Either Solid state batteries or Hydrogen with wide spread recharge/ refueling capacity a must before wide spread long range tool is in our yards. Given 90% of cars on the road are NOT in need of those bits I think the take up is likely to be a lost faster than many think. Disco keys could come out any time. Why pay for fuel and servicing now I can get my 90% sad sack average drives done for almost no power cost with all the freebie charge points which are likely to charge once a lot of cars want them[bigwhistle]

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Good post

I’ll counter with - the price of the vehicle.

You purchased a $43k vehicle to reduce costs [emoji41]
And now have - 2 vehicles, 2 regos & 2 insurances

That’s over 30,000l of fuel or 300,000km of driving. [emoji41]

Where’s the right tool in this case?

It wasn’t emissions - to make it likely exceeded what just keeping the Disco and one less other vehicle off the road. [emoji851]

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Originally Posted by Tombie

Good post

I’ll counter with - the price of the vehicle.

You purchased a $43k vehicle to reduce costs [emoji41]
And now have - 2 vehicles, 2 regos & 2 insurances

That’s over 30,000l of fuel or 300,000km of driving. [emoji41]

Where’s the right tool in this case?

It wasn’t emissions - to make it likely exceeded what just keeping the Disco and one less other vehicle off the road. [emoji851]

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Fully agree again yet Sir No need to counter your points are all valid

add I still hope I can refit my Disco and not by a several sqillion$ hydrogen first of class 4wd. [biggrin] Ditto for my boat motor which is as Mario pointed out very bloody grubby- He did not say it in that way.[thumbsupbig] Its a 2 stroke in V.G.C.. I would like to put at Electric motor on top of the item removing the motor only. I am a dreamer as I fully appreciate no suitable affordable Fuel Cell or battery option is available to provide the range needed to get me 40 km off shore and home again safely at present. I asked if the boat shop could give a price estimate for my very well maintained 2 stroke motor a few months ago. It wasn't pretty!

Insurance is happily and agreeably parked. Negotiation works some times.

30,000 litres of fuel is not considering the residual value of my Disco or MG perhaps? still both still worth a lot more than the boat motor[bigwhistle]

Understand that bit.

I have 2 very sweet V4 115 2 strokes.
They sing nicely - just too bloody noisy for a day out and about.

Boat is going in for a refurb soon and 2 new 4 strokes will go on the back to get the noise down.

Those alone are $30k the pair, hate to think how much to go electric and have the range to get 50km offshore.

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Those alone are $30k the pair, hate to think how much to go electric and have the range to get 50km offshore.

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The motors wouldn't be too bad.
It's the batteries that will kill the budget and weight.
Regards PhilipA

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Originally Posted by PhilipA

The motors wouldn't be too bad.
It's the batteries that will kill the budget and weight.
Regards PhilipA

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On the money Philip

1kW replaces 3hp!
"

• This ensures as little energy as possible is wasted. Some modern electric drive systems have an overall efficiency of up to 50%, whereas in comparison a petrol motor has an overall efficiency of less than 10%
• – Combustion engines need reduction gears. Because of the losses associated with gearing, many electric drives eliminate it by using low RPM, high-torque motors

"

The 2 stoke PITA in my case is well known now not when I brought it

On the bright side The Motors are ready for the power supplies which might be available via several larger manufactures all ramping up Fuel Cells capacity now and Soid state batteries perhaps.

If the 3 to 1 conversions is correct I think a 30ish kw motor may be enough for me. Power needed for 20 hours is a requirement I feel for safety so I cannot do it with any current battery. Current Fuel Cells- hydrogen or ammonia are still to pricey.

I'd likely go to ammonia fuel cell as its amiable to easy transport and storage. Its all about the price.

The biggest problem with fuel cells is that the Hydrogen tanks require an enormous volume compared to petrol.

Have a look at the Toyota Mirai video and you will see that about 40-50% of the internal volume of the car is Hydrogen tank for under 350Km range. Note Toyota say they are "targetting" 350Km range so it may be quite a bit less..

At least it would be something to do with that empty bilge , but you had better have a very efficient bilge blower!

Regards PhilipA

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Originally Posted by scarry

i wouldnt go near a heat pump,we fix them regularly.
Continual repairs are not uncommon and often expensive.They are also complicated compared to the mainstream HW units on the market.
Although a longer warranty will help.
A solar HW or old school with a heater will outlast them by a huge margin.

We have had solar HW at this place for 20yrs,and the last place for 22yrs as well.
And thats with no maintenance or repairs,apart from cleaning the panels annually.
Although at this place in winter it is shaded by trees,so we have to use the booster very occasionally.

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When we found our solar hot water tank weeping we got it replaced with the same Solahart unit because the old one was 30 years old. I gave the old collector panel to someone on here for his bush shack.

Don.

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Originally Posted by scarry

i wouldnt go near a heat pump,we fix them regularly.
Continual repairs are not uncommon and often expensive.They are also complicated compared to the mainstream HW units on the market.
Although a longer warranty will help.
A solar HW or old school with a heater will outlast them by a huge margin.

We have had solar HW at this place for 20yrs,and the last place for 22yrs as well.
And thats with no maintenance or repairs,apart from cleaning the panels annually.
Although at this place in winter it is shaded by trees,so we have to use the booster very occasionally.

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When we found our solar hot water tank weeping we got it replaced with the same Solahart unit because the old one was 30 years old. I gave the old collector panel to someone on here for his bush shack. The new one was $4,000.00 installed. If it also lasts 30 years, it'll be very good value.

Don.

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Originally Posted by Don 130

When we found our solar hot water tank weeping we got it replaced with the same Solahart unit because the old one was 30 years old. I gave the old collector panel to someone on here for his bush shack. The new one was $4,000.00 installed. If it also lasts 30 years, it'll be very good value.

Don.

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Pulled an old Solarhart off the roof of the youngest sons place today,it failed about 12 months ago.Bloody difficult job.
Quote for new one was around $4K fitted as well,elecric was $1200,fitted by a mate.

When he bought the place there was a reciept for the old Solahart.
It was fitted 1976,$645 plus $150 for install.[bighmmm]

So 44 yrs old when it failed,bloody amazing