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Thread: Fitting Solar Panel Regulator

  1. #1
    Lionelgee is online now YarnMaster Silver Subscriber
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    Fitting Solar Panel Regulator

    Hello All,

    I just acquired my first solar panel today. I bought it so I can trickle charge a 12 volt car battery.

    Since this is my first foray into solar panels can some please let me know how and where you usually fix the regulator?

    Do you glue it to the back of the solar panel? If so what sort of glue do you use?

    Or do you screw or bolt it to the frame?

    Could you mark on the photo where you fix your regulators?

    Kind regards
    Lionel
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  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lionelgee View Post
    Hello All,

    I just acquired my first solar panel today. I bought it so I can trickle charge a 12 volt car battery.

    Since this is my first foray into solar panels can some please let me know how and where you usually fix the regulator?

    Do you glue it to the back of the solar panel? If so what sort of glue do you use?

    Or do you screw or bolt it to the frame?

    Could you mark on the photo where you fix your regulators?

    Kind regards
    Lionel
    dont stick it to the panel, it will peel the backing off,

    you can bolt it to the panel frame but generally you want the regulator as close to the battery as possible so the power loss through voltage drop is lessened.

    if
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

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    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
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  3. #3
    DiscoMick Guest
    I have regulators both on the back and near batteries on different panels.
    Near battery is more efficient because the shorter distance reduces voltage drop between the regulator and battery, but both work.
    If it's on the back make sure it can't flex. Could be glued or screwed.

  4. #4
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    I have 3 sets of solar panels - 1 on the roof of the Disco 3, 1 folding unit, and a large single panel.
    None have regulators mounted on/fitted to them.
    I have 3 regulators like these Victron SmartSolar 75/15 MPPT Solar Charge Controller - InBuilt Bluetooth Smart | eBay
    I use reasonably heavy cable to go from the solar panel to the reg, and the lead from the reg to the battery is about 2 feet long. This way, I get the regulator close to the battery to reduce any voltage loss.
    And I can monitor the charge rate for each one on my mobile phone.
    I also have a 60W panel on my garage roof, and I plug the Disco in to that, via a Victron regulator, when it's not being driven for any length of time.
    Works well for me.
    Alan
    2012 L320 Range Rover Sport Fuji White
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    2006 Disco 3, 4L V6 Petrol SE Deceased Feb 26 2023
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  5. #5
    DiscoMick Guest
    So as that post indicates there are two types of regulators, PWM and MPPT.
    PWM are the basic ones which just pull the power down to a certain level, often 10 amps.
    MPPT can do other things in certain circumstances.
    Both work well, but MPPTs can work better in some situations.
    Explanations of the differences can be complicated and confusing.
    Don't over-think it, just keep it simple.
    Solar is basically connect and forget - it just works.

  6. #6
    Lionelgee is online now YarnMaster Silver Subscriber
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    Hello All,

    Thank you Blknight, DiscoMick and Aussie Jeepster for your replies.

    Here is a really simple question, which reflects my newbie status... Is it the same situation when the battery is being trickle charged from the solar panel as you do when you charge a flat battery - disconnect the car's normal battery connections?

    Next lesson is: I was thinking about mounting a plug in the some discrete area; like in the inner front mudguard so that the panel and wires can be connected and reconnected without having to leave the bonnet up. Or damaging cables if the bonnet gets accidentally closed.

    Which are the best - weather proof and reliable between an Anderson plug and the MC4 type of plugs?

    Aussie Jeepster, can you please take some photographs of where you have your regulators installed inside your Land Rover and post them up please?

    I was going to do a TAFE course in Alternative Energy back in the late 1980s - then other things happened. Going off grid is something I would like to aim for in the future. When I was living in Brisbane in the 1980s I was a member of the Brisbane Organic Grows Group (BOGG). The group had a field trip to one of the first inner Brisbane houses to go off grid in the middle of suburbia.

    Kind regards
    Lionel

  7. #7
    DiscoMick Guest
    No, you don't need to disconnect anything. Its just a current coming in, like the current from the alternator. Just normal current flow, no need to disconnect. No harm will be done.
    I have the plug for the solar on the roof mounted in the engine bay on the top of the firewall, up from getting dirt and rocks sprayed over it, and wrapped in insulation tape. Or you could put the plug on the mudguard or even just cable-tie it to the battery clamp.
    I have both Anderson and MC4 plugs and they both work fine. Just use whatever it comes with.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lionelgee View Post
    Hello All,

    Thank you Blknight, DiscoMick and Aussie Jeepster for your replies.

    Here is a really simple question, which reflects my newbie status... Is it the same situation when the battery is being trickle charged from the solar panel as you do when you charge a flat battery - disconnect the car's normal battery connections?

    Next lesson is: I was thinking about mounting a plug in the some discrete area; like in the inner front mudguard so that the panel and wires can be connected and reconnected without having to leave the bonnet up. Or damaging cables if the bonnet gets accidentally closed.

    Which are the best - weather proof and reliable between an Anderson plug and the MC4 type of plugs?

    Aussie Jeepster, can you please take some photographs of where you have your regulators installed inside your Land Rover and post them up please?

    I was going to do a TAFE course in Alternative Energy back in the late 1980s - then other things happened. Going off grid is something I would like to aim for in the future. When I was living in Brisbane in the 1980s I was a member of the Brisbane Organic Grows Group (BOGG). The group had a field trip to one of the first inner Brisbane houses to go off grid in the middle of suburbia.

    Kind regards
    Lionel
    nope even when charging batteries you just plug the charger on and let it go.. there are some exceptions.

    1. you want all the amps into the battery and not parasitic loads - with the battery disconnected theres no loads the battery charges faster ready to start.

    2. you're using an unregulated charger to cook charge the battery. If you're doing this you're throwing around 17-18V at a bucket of amps at the battery to force it to soak up enough electrons very quickly so you can start the vehicle (done regularly this will kill your battery and in some situations if done right can bring a dying battery back to life) the higher voltage can zap some fragile electronics. a big enough solar panel with no regulator will overcharge a battery.

    which vehicle, if the rating on the panel and regulator is low enough theres plenty of live feeds that can be tapped for back charging, a trailer plug with a bit of modding to the harness is an easy option. Me personally I have distributed power in all my vehicles and there is one constant feed socket that only goes through a fuse up the front and down the back. I have a bunch of small charge options that can just be plugged in to either and left.

    I've done a setup on a rangie that tapped hot power under the seat as a feed for a small regulator and a flat ribbon style cable was used for the hook up that came out through the door seal.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  9. #9
    DiscoMick Guest
    I have extra Anderson plugs near both my batteries so I can hook extra solar up to them. I can also connect to the trailer Anderson plug at the rear bumper of the Defender.
    All my solar panels have regulators.
    Our camper trailer can be charged both through the trailer Anderson plug or directly via an Anderson plug connected directly to the twin batteries.
    This means I can actually run 2 solar panels, both regulated, directly to the camper batteries for faster charging.
    Solar is so easy when it's setup.

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