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Just a suggestion Ron, but if you use a plastic battery box, you could mount your DC/DC device on the top or side and have an Anderson plug setup, to connect it to your vehicle cabling.Quote:
Originally Posted by p38arover
This would not only make it easy to fit and remove but would give you a portable power supply.
Pretty much what I did. There is enough room to mount an SC 80 inside the lid, making the auxiliary battery portable and stand alone.Quote:
Originally Posted by drivesafe
A while back I picked up at a swap meet, for $10, an ARK battery box that has an in-built charger - but for a lead-acid battery. 😫
This the plastic bit that would need a lot of hacking.
Attachment 187655
You can see how high the battery sits.
Attachment 187656
I’ll look into the DC-DC charger mounted on a battery box idea. The battery is only required when I go camping so it can be attached to my drawer system which only goes in when camping.
I might be able to re-purpose my control panel rather than building a new one.
(Pix out of focus 'coz I used my iPhone. I can never get the pix in focus with it.)
Attachment 187654
SuperCrap have a battery box on special at the moment for $39, It comes fitted with 2 x Anderson plugs, a voltmeter and 2 cigarette lighter sockets, and it's fused.
XTM Powered Battery Box with USB & Accessory Socket | Supercheap Auto
So I just bought one.
Sounds like it comes from the same Chinese factory as the Kings version.Quote:
Originally Posted by p38arover
Hi again Ron. I have had a couple of customers fit larger AGMs in the back where you plan to fit the Lithium.
They had to modify the base plate like you suggested you will need to do, but they they also had to cut about 15mm of the bottom edge of the panel that covers the fuses.
Do you mean the concave panel? I have a spare one of those - I bought it in case I needed to hack one about doing the dual battery setup.Quote:
Originally Posted by drivesafe
Yep, thats the one.Quote:
Originally Posted by p38arover
