Thread: EV Landy Conversion - 8 years on

Originally Posted by workingonit

Like what you've done. I'm not on Facebook...did you post a lot of technical detail on how you built it ie circuit diagrams, component brands, adaptions to fit, etc? PDF book we might buy?

Not having a vehicle of my own by which to escape I spent 2 weeks over Christmas trapped in caravan culture on a NSW mid coast camp ground...learning a lot about lithium batteries, inverters and Anderson plugs (half their conversation...the other half on how to stop water leaks) so I feel primed to start a LRover conversion...

For a project like this Facebook is can be as much a useful resource as a distraction. You just have to ignore the noise.

I wrote a webpage www.goingbush.com/ptev.html as I was building, that may be helpful but I'd do it differently now . I'd use a Nissan Leaf motor & a resolve controller , Even a Nissan battery can be made to fit a landy . (or repackaged - but a lot more effort)

Originally Posted by goingbush

For a project like this Facebook is can be as much a useful resource as a distraction. You just have to ignore the noise.

I wrote a webpage www.goingbush.com/ptev.html as I was building, that may be helpful but I'd do it differently now . I'd use a Nissan Leaf motor & a resolve controller , Even a Nissan battery can be made to fit a landy . (or repackaged - but a lot more effort)

The big issue with the Nissan Leaf battery seems to be that it doesn't have active cooling so seems quite short lived in the Australian context. I guess the advantage to this is there are plenty of replacement battery solutions out there.

Is this a consideration? Is active cooling possible or necessary for a conversion?

Originally Posted by Captain_Rightfoot

The big issue with the Nissan Leaf battery seems to be that it doesn't have active cooling so seems quite short lived in the Australian context. I guess the advantage to this is there are plenty of replacement battery solutions out there.

Is this a consideration? Is active cooling possible or necessary for a conversion?

TBH I wouldn't worry about cooling , warming bis more of an issue. My batteries perform much better in Summer , get a shorter range in winter , longer range in Summer . Not a deal breaker.

My philosphy is keep it simple, no un-nescessary crap = less weight , less complications,

Originally Posted by goingbush

TBH I wouldn't worry about cooling , warming bis more of an issue. My batteries perform much better in Summer , get a shorter range in winter , longer range in Summer . Not a deal breaker.

My philosphy is keep it simple, no un-nescessary crap = less weight , less complications,

I'm not sure where you are - but I understand that heat kills the leaf batteries. Fast charging, and high ambient temps. I gather in QLD it's not uncommon for batteries to be replaced very early on. I looked at a leaf in a nissan dealer with 30k and he said "don't worry - the battery has already been replaced". OMG

Nissan has apparently tried to mittigate this by curtailing charging as the batteries heat up while fast charging - even in very cold climates. Apparently nissan curtails fast charging at 30-35 degrees. That's just a normal daytime temp up here in summer.. let alone if you add charging.

I guess you can just rule fast charging out, but depending on the application it might somewhat limit range! Leaf's have already given the world EV range anxiety...

Google "Rapidgate"

Originally Posted by Captain_Rightfoot

I'm not sure where you are - but I understand that heat kills the leaf batteries. Fast charging, and high ambient temps. I gather in QLD it's not uncommon for batteries to be replaced very early on. I looked at a leaf in a nissan dealer with 30k and he said "don't worry - the battery has already been replaced". OMG

Nissan has apparently tried to mittigate this by curtailing charging as the batteries heat up while fast charging - even in very cold climates. Apparently nissan curtails fast charging at 30-35 degrees. That's just a normal daytime temp up here in summer.. let alone if you add charging.

I guess you can just rule fast charging out, but depending on the application it might somewhat limit range! Leaf's have already given the world EV range anxiety...

Google "Rapidgate"

You just adressed the number 1 EV battery killer , FAST CHARGING .. Personally I would never -EVER fast charge an EV battery , Each time you do your killing the battery a lille bit, Especially Lithium, Solid State or Sodium may be diferent . 2nd EV battery killer is charging to 100% I plug in at home and charge at 3.3kw . I have temp sensors, The dont ever go above ambient, Ihave my BMS set to stop charging at 80% , and the car goes into limp when they get down to 20% . I paid 11K for my batteries & the plan is to keep them for 30 years.

If you go on long trips & need to Fast charge you better off with ICE .

Originally Posted by goingbush

You just adressed the number 1 EV battery killer , FAST CHARGING .. Personally I would never -EVER fast charge an EV battery , Each time you do your killing the battery a lille bit, Especially Lithium, Solid State or Sodium may be diferent . 2nd EV battery killer is charging to 100% I plug in at home and charge at 3.3kw . I have temp sensors, The dont ever go above ambient, Ihave my BMS set to stop charging at 80% , and the car goes into limp when they get down to 20% . I paid 11K for my batteries & the plan is to keep them for 30 years.

If you go on long trips & need to Fast charge you better off with ICE .

What battery chemistry are they? If they are leafs i think they are NMC.

I think they are all a bit different.

Actually ...

First-generation Leafs (2011–2017) utilized LMO with Lithium Nickel Oxide. 2018+ models shifted to NMC cathode chemistry to allow for greater range in a similar space

Originally Posted by goingbush

I wrote a webpage www.goingbush.com/ptev.html as I was building, that may be helpful

I've had an annoying number of issues with oxides forming on the legs of spade fuses in the Land Rovers, and melting their plastic surrounds as they 'micro' arc in their holders in a Tojo.

I noticed on your build web page you referred to Sanchem NO-OX-ID A-Special conductive grease and wondered if I should try this grease to improve contact and reduce oxidisation.

Can't find any Australian retailer. Amazon says something like 'out of stock and don't know when it will be back'. Ebay stuff looks like its repackaged 'something or other' with a home made paper label stuck on it to give credibility. The manufacturers site seems to indicate it may accept orders, but if possible I would prefer to get it locally. I thought Jaycar might have something, but no.

Hope you don't mind, but could I ask where you got your supply? Is there an equivalent alternative you know of in Oz? Thanks.