Quote:
Originally Posted by Rangier Rover
Would this be a wood or oil heater ? could always take rangier wood heater and use it around the patio ?:angel: Just need to take your compressor along :p what are you going to use for end caps ?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rangier Rover
Would this be a wood or oil heater ? could always take rangier wood heater and use it around the patio ?:angel: Just need to take your compressor along :p what are you going to use for end caps ?
And the OXY:twisted:Quote:
Originally Posted by Disco_owner
Still looking for ends. May be a bent up ol 44 Gal drum. It will be a wood heater. Can pinch some coals out of the indoor one to light it:angel:
or// some of the steel mesh you used to make the Rangier Rover BBQ plate :angel: that's good stuff , just weld it on at one end and have it hinged at the other end and Spiros is your Uncle.:DQuote:
Originally Posted by Rangier Rover
Bloody Hell!,... what is this thread turning into, a pyromaniacs delight?:twisted: A man goes away for a few hours and you are trying to the damned shed down. :D
The back draft up the air inlet when it is being lit is a bit of a worry, I'd be trying to install a damper of some sort so that you can shut off the air tube while you light up, and the door is open. Hopefully this would get enough heat going up the flue to create an immediate down draft in the air tube once the door had been closed and you then open the damper.
It might also be prudent to back the fuel off a little to prevent setting fire to the rafters, this should also help it burn a little cleaner.:D
I'm not going to use it again till the thing is moved away from that area and a decent exhaust is fitted. Its way to crazy to use in side, even with the china man on it.Quote:
:twisted::twisted::twisted:Quote:
Originally Posted by ozzirt
Quote:
The back draft up the air inlet when it is being lit is a bit of a worry, I'd be trying to install a damper of some sort so that you can shut off the air tube while you light up, and the door is open. Hopefully this would get enough heat going up the flue to create an immediate down draft in the air tube once the door had been closed and you then open the damper.
It might also be prudent to back the fuel off a little to prevent setting fire to the rafters, this should also help it burn a little cleaner.:D
Have fitted a damper to the inlet but unfortunately doesn't create a perfect seal to prevent this:(
I just hope no low flying migrating birds pass over the shed when it got the full flue attached as they may get BBQed:eek::twisted:
I can see why you are worried.
I always thought that the idea was to keep the fire in the firebox and not toasting the bums of migrating starlings. I think that you really need a better needle valve for metering your fuel rate :D I bought mine at the local garage out of their selection of brass fuel fittings. About $22 but no doubt they've gone up since then, 12 years ago.
Flames going up the stack is fuel (and heat) wasted, and to this end I must place some sort of baffle in my own heater when I pull it down during the warmer weather. At the moment I reckon far too much of my heat is just shooting up the centre of the firebox and straight out up the chimney.
I have a 20mm thick cast steel clutch plate out of a Mack truck up the back and it only needs a bit of work to do the job.
Here's a photo taken among my collection of bits 'n' pieces for future heaters where you can see the heavy clutch plate and also see the male and female types of truck brake drums that I use showing the different edges that allow them to fit tightly together to form an airtight seal.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im.../2010/05/2.jpg
the piece of steel resting on top is a part of a railway bed plate, these were used to tilt the rails slightly on bends to prevent wearing of the inside surface of the outside rail, they are cast steel and will take a lot of heat without distorting or burning out.
Wile sorting out a few things I striped the other two hot water systems out.
I seem to have found a copper mine:eek: They will be of no further use for this cause... I'll flog them off to a scapy. Any idea what copper is worth ATM?
Looks like the next oil heater manufactured here will be a very different design;)
Copper like all of the scrap metals has fallen through the floor, but will climb again once the economy gets on track. I don't reckon it will be long and it will start to rise again and it will keep rising until it gets back to pre crash values.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rangier Rover
I'd say hang onto it, it's not costing you anything to keep, and prices can only go up at the moment.
Hmmm. Give them a polish and they'd make a nice oil reservoir:twisted:;)Quote:
Originally Posted by ozzirt
Also would make four nice wood baskets:D Shouldn't mater if I chop them up as copper is sold by weight right?
Yes, that is correct,... however it is very handy stuff to have on hand. The tanks are about 2mm thick, I suppose that equates to about 14 or 16 gauge, and makes grear copper washers and gaskets etc. Should you actually have to buy it, sheet copper is poisonously expensive. I have not priced any in about 15 years but I'll guarantee it's got no cheaper.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rangier Rover
When i had my mine, I wanted to make a small test plate for amalgamating gold. When I enquired as to the price I changed my mind quite quickly. Someone somewhere suggested gutting and filleting an old hot water cylinder, and lo and behold I had one in my yard which I had recently replaced. I imagined that it would be useless as i thought that it would be heavily corroded, never the less I used the angle grinder to cut the domed ends off and found that 99.9% of it was almost untouched and that the hole in it was about the size of a pin hole, right on the seam.
I had two domed ends and a cylinder about 3 foot high. I then stood the cylinder on half a dozen bricks and loosely filled it with light timber and set fire to it to anneal the copper, when i figured that it was hot enough I turned the hose on it and ended up with a beautifully soft cylinder which i then split down the side seam and flattened on my shed floor. A quick trip to the local tinsmiths shop and 20 minutes and a quick silver solder job later, I had my plate.
I reckon it saved me over $300 at the time. I'll take a photo in the morning. It's tucked up on the side of my shed at the moment, badly in need of a new coat of mercury.