Oil burning shed heaters

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...014/05/622.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...014/05/623.jpg

Baffle plate, just bit of folded sheet that hangs over flue

Should keep it contained. I'm very happy with my kroll

Thanks Matt.

I tried some changes tonight but to no avail.

The Sanders design seems very prone to flame outs. I certainly couldn't use it during the day, the smoke is simply too obvious. It doesn't get very warm. The max temp around the casing is no higher than 120 deg C.

It's very messy and one gets very smelly handling the oil. I need to make up a tray to collect any overspill oil.

I'm only perservering because I spent so much on the aluminium burner and the needle valve from Roger Sanders. I might have to look into converting it to Ozirt's design.

I persevered with Rodger sanders design for 2 winters, I built my own needle valve and was casting my dishes. They all melted, not through dodgy casting just extreme heat, remember aluminium melts at around 660c. I ended up with steel dish.
I found it dirty and fiddly even though I could get reliable heat from it.
I started to fiddle around with a design based on the old workshop heaters, choofa / salamander. And then I found Ozzirts design which helped me simplify things.
5 years later, Iv'e replace nothing but oil in my tank and a filter that was to fine and restricted my oil flow. Put in a good water trap ( all Pvc pipe ) and away you go.

People who have dropped in for a beer in the shed are amazed at the simplicty (easy to light ) and the amount of heat it gives of. I've got 2 brake drum chambers before the flue and I can have the top of each glowing dull red in under an hour at which time it usually gets turned down also the first 2 feet of the flue is glowing.

Good luck and please follow Ozzirts design you wont be dissapointed.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by p38arover

Matt, looking at the amount of soot in the heater and flue, I wonder how much is due to low temperature burning? I think you are right about the baffling but I don't know how I'd fit them. The flue is stainless.

Perhaps by making up a steel box (with internal baffling) mounted between the heater and the flue?

However, what affect would it have on draw? Would I need a much longer flue?

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I know this is an old thread, but the other day I removed our home wood fire baffle to clean the debris off the top - have done this every year for the past five years, & was very surprised to find a big hole burnt/corroded through it. This baffle is 5mm thick steel plate & I'm sure with a hole it is not up to safety specs:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...015/08/200.jpg

Also revealed that the baffle has suffered significant distortion in all planes. It was also a hassle getting a new one as the brand of heater is no longer supported in my area of WA. So off to the local metalworks & he did a great job folding up a new one which fits a treat.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...015/08/201.jpgJust wonder how many households have a heater with damaged baffles that could add to the likelihood of a flue fire?

looks like the old choofer now can have a flue and throttle butterfly


http://henstock.com.au/demon%C2%AE-heaters

Bloody small world. I start work for Henstock, who make the Demon Heaters, tomorrow as a welder. They are bout 1/4 hr. from me.:)

Demon? Heaters | Henstock

Dave

Bringing an old thread back with one a mate made. Thinking of painting it blue and yellow :D.

Looks like something out of Dr Who! You will need a boiler tickets or jet licence to operate it! What are the outriggers, ovens or booster heaters? You will have to explain the passage of heat through it! Cheers, Mick.

The out riggers are ovens but he is struggling to get reasonable temps into them.

I have not read all the replies here so it may have already been suggested.

Google Babbinton burner, it utilises any burnable fluid (DON'T USE ANYTHING AS FLAMMABLE AS PETROL) using compressed air through a tine hole to atomise the liquid, no blockages that way.

Cheers

Mike