View Full Version : Puma Owners: non-start issue
Brid
19th March 2010, 02:43 PM
This might be of interest to other Puma owners...
My 07 Defender has had a non-start issue, which has been identified as a faulty Engine Immobilizer Module. Symptoms were...
Failure to lock vehicle with the remote
No security warning light flashing
Central locking not working (depressing drivers door lock would not activate other door locks)
On attempted starting, engine would fire & then cut out & alarm would sound.
Hope this will be useful to others if something similar occurs. The part has not arrived at dealer yet, so I am hoping this diagnosis is correct.
Regards
Brid
dullbird
19th March 2010, 05:52 PM
This might be of interest to other Puma owners...
My 07 Defender has had a non-start issue, which has been identified as a faulty Engine Immobilizer Module. Symptoms were...
Failure to lock vehicle with the remote
No security warning light flashing
Central locking not working (depressing drivers door lock would not activate other door locks)
On attempted starting, engine would fire & then cut out & alarm would sound.
Hope this will be useful to others if something similar occurs. The part has not arrived at dealer yet, so I am hoping this diagnosis is correct.
Regards
Brid
yep your getting your module changed and although mine did exactly the same thing EXACTLY the same..couldn't find anything wrong with mine there for not a problem:(..
I just hope it doesn't bloody do it again
Brid
20th March 2010, 07:51 PM
Yeah Dullbird
Sounds like your's just played up for a bit. I was told but Southside LR that radio interference can be a problem with the remote. Perhaps it was such an issue in your case??
Unfortunately mine went dead. I even pushed it about 20 metres further away to get away from any potential radio interference...but no good.
Regards
Brid
DeeJay
20th March 2010, 08:04 PM
I even pushed it about 20 metres further away to get away
:eek::eek::spudniklifter::spudniklifter:
Hard act to follow
dullbird
20th March 2010, 08:37 PM
Yeah maybe, I wish I knew, the car has been parked in the same spot for the last 3 months..
and the difficulty of the locking started in a different location the night before around 80klm away from where the car actually decided not to start
Brid
21st March 2010, 05:34 PM
Do you reckon there might be any way that the engine immobilizer function can be totally removed?
I'd swap anti theft security for start reliability in the bush any day. I understand mechanical things...but computerized ecectronic stuff I can't, and it's specialized repair anyway, so even if I could, there's no chance of fixing it myself either!
dullbird
21st March 2010, 05:41 PM
I dont know be good to find out though....
Bush65
22nd March 2010, 12:07 PM
I may be wrong, but I thought immobilisers were required in all new cars from a few years ago. They will also affect your insurance.
My vehicles are old models and don't have immobilisers.
Since my bushie doesn't have doors, let alone locks, and because it has an electric fuel lift pump and the fuse panel is convenient to access and not labelled, my diy immobiliser uses a number of fuses that have been doctored (so they look good but aren't) - I pull appropriate fuses and put them in a safe place, and fit the dummy (immobilised) fuses. To a thief it would appear to be an immobiliser, but they wouldn't know what to hotwire to get it to start and run within a short time. I may fit an audible alarm and motion sensors when I can get around to it.
Scouse
22nd March 2010, 12:57 PM
I may be wrong, but I thought immobilisers were required in all new cars from a few years ago. They will also affect your insurance.
My vehicles are old models and don't have immobilisers.
Since my bushie doesn't have doors, let alone locks, and because it has an electric fuel lift pump and the fuse panel is convenient to access and not labelled, my diy immobiliser uses a number of fuses that have been doctored (so they look good but aren't) - I pull appropriate fuses and put them in a safe place, and fit the dummy (immobilised) fuses. To a thief it would appear to be an immobiliser, but they wouldn't know what to hotwire to get it to start and run within a short time. I may fit an audible alarm and motion sensors when I can get around to it.Is it wise to divulge that sort of info on here John?
You never know who could be watching.
To play it safe, can you let me know which fuses they are?
Please :).
Bush65
22nd March 2010, 01:53 PM
Is it wise to divulge that sort of info on here John?
You never know who could be watching.
To play it safe, can you let me know which fuses they are?
Please :).
I think it is complicated enough.
The fuses are among those pictured (91 rangie) but many are not used for their original function/purpose now.
BTW I didn't mention the doberman.
bee utey
22nd March 2010, 04:30 PM
Do you reckon there might be any way that the engine immobilizer function can be totally removed?
I'd swap anti theft security for start reliability in the bush any day. I understand mechanical things...but computerized ecectronic stuff I can't, and it's specialized repair anyway, so even if I could, there's no chance of fixing it myself either!
I spent some time reading the RAVE manual on the D2 security system. In them the body control module earths all the relay circuits it controls/disables. It should be possible to trace every circuit colour and remove it from the BCM, earthing it to chassis instead. I have no idea how the later models manage this but I am chucking this idea into the ring...
stevencam
22nd March 2010, 06:12 PM
Do you reckon there might be any way that the engine immobilizer function can be totally removed?
I'd swap anti theft security for start reliability in the bush any day. I understand mechanical things...but computerized ecectronic stuff I can't, and it's specialized repair anyway, so even if I could, there's no chance of fixing it myself either!
Yes the immobiliser can be deactivated. I had mine turned off by the dealer, as the immobiliser would activate when I left the vehicle with keys in the ignition and I would have to lock and unlock the vehicle before it would start.
I later asked for it to be reinstated and everything then worked without fault for several months. However last week it was back to its old tricks, plus an incidence of failure to lock the vehicle with the remote, I locked it with the key, upon return to the vehicle was able to open with remote and no problems starting. Phew! lucky not be stranded, judging by some previous post on this matter.
Perhaps if travelling in remote areas it would be a good idea to turn it off.:D
Brid
8th April 2010, 11:32 AM
Just to update on my non-start experience...When I got the vehicle delivered back to Brisbane (from Bundaberg), I was able to open with the remote once only...then it had to be the key from then on.
I disconnected the remote controller from the key ring, and found that I was able to start the engine with no remote anywhere near the vehicle.
Obviously the Bundy dealer must have disconnected the immobilizer...pretty happy with that, but puzzled that they ordered a new one!!
Anyway I have a fair list of other warranty items to address so will take it to Southside for that. I've got over 93,000kms on it now, and thought I should take it to some LR specialist for pre-end of warranty check. Anyone got any suggestions on whether this is worthwhile? And if so, who in the Brissy area?
Cheers
Brid
Scallops
8th April 2010, 11:39 AM
Just to update on my non-start experience...When I got the vehicle delivered back to Brisbane (from Bundaberg), I was able to open with the remote once only...then it had to be the key from then on.
I disconnected the remote controller from the key ring, and found that I was able to start the engine with no remote anywhere near the vehicle.
Obviously the Bundy dealer must have disconnected the immobilizer...pretty happy with that, but puzzled that they ordered a new one!!
Anyway I have a fair list of other warranty items to address so will take it to Southside for that. I've got over 93,000kms on it now, and thought I should take it to some LR specialist for pre-end of warranty check. Anyone got any suggestions on whether this is worthwhile? And if so, who in the Brissy area?
Cheers
Brid
Brid - take it to MR Automotive in Redcliffe....
mrautomotive - Home (http://www.mrautomotive.com.au/)
solmanic
8th April 2010, 02:03 PM
Brid - take it to MR Automotive in Redcliffe..
X 2
But if you really want to give the dealer a heart attack, get the RACQ to do their pre-warranty expiry check. They will make the vehicle sound downright un-roadworthy with all the minor issues they usually list.
Brid
2nd September 2010, 01:31 PM
The dealers haven't been able to reinstate the engine immobilizer & currently the central locking won't work either. Two new immobilizer modules have been tried under warranty, but even with LR Aust involved, they cannot get it to communicate.
Assuming they get it fixed again, does anyone know how to isolate the immobilizer for when we do our outback trips? ...one coming up in October.
Clearly I don't want to be bailed up with the immobilizer locking down the engine again.
Cheers
Brid
pc3
2nd September 2010, 01:43 PM
Perhaps if travelling in remote areas it would be a good idea to turn it off.:D
THIS sounds like a good idea....how do you turn all this crap off so you DONT get any of this ****e when your in the outback, all you really want is to be able to have remote opening of doors, if that fails you use your key to open and no dramas thenjust fix remote when home. This stupid imobilizer seems to be more hassle than its worth............anyway what person in there right mind would want to steel a Defender :eek:
miky
3rd September 2010, 03:32 PM
Bit of a loss as to what the problem is out bush.
Only lock with the key and make sure you keep that electronic push button dongle thingy well away from the ignition "switch".
Take it with you cause if you do find a dodgy town out there you can use it.
.
pc3
3rd September 2010, 03:54 PM
Reaility is in really remote spots were I go I wont lock it !!
spudfan
8th September 2010, 07:43 PM
Regarding immobilising the Defender. How about putting the transfer box in neutral then removing the transfer lever? Uless she is being towed that should get the thieves stumped!
Allan
9th September 2010, 12:29 PM
I had a strange hiccup with the immobiliser on my Puma last weekend. I had to move the car to put the boat away and using the key set we normally use and the car fired no problems. We parked the boat but misplaced the Puma keys in the process, no drama's get the spare. Inserted spare and turned, all lights up, turns over once or twice then nothing. Ignition lights still glowing but would not turn over. First thought was dead battery but confused as no solenoid click. About to call RAC and the wife found the everyday keys, inserted key for one more try and it fired instantly. Retried the spare and no problems, all as normal. Could it be the key loses its "memory" after time, or is it acting to magnetic fields as door swipe cards do in some hotels. I hadn't used the spare key for 12 months. Very odd.
Allan
spudboy
26th May 2012, 01:46 PM
Hi Allan - I have just had this exact same problem, with the 2nd key not starting the car.
Started a thread here: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread.php?p=1690434
What was the resolution for you?
Allan
26th May 2012, 05:28 PM
Hi Allan - I have just had this exact same problem, with the 2nd key not starting the car.
Started a thread here: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread.php?p=1690434
What was the resolution for you?
Same as Drover, it's very odd. I had the dealer look into it about a year ago and they found nothing but it's not done it since. The last time it did Its odd thing was in the middle of nowhere and I would not have wanted to pay for a flat bed home.
Allan
Judo
26th May 2012, 05:41 PM
lol I like how you proceeded to provide the fuse details.
Can you also tell me your address? :wasntme:
Edit: totally posted that from an old page... whoops! Ignore me.
JayBoRover
27th May 2012, 11:26 AM
Funny that this thread should be dredged up. When I picked up my new D90 recently, the dealer made a point about ensuring that I don't keep the two keys close to each other, and definitely not sharing the same key ring. I responded that would be stupid anyway because then you'd lose both keys. She then mentioned it wasn't because of that risk but because the keys have been known to somehow interfer with each other and then one can stop working for a while.
Doesn't resolve the issue for you, but might be something to remember. Maybe some time apart is what's needed. "It isn't you dear, it's me. I just need some space to myself to sort myself out".:D
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