Manual tailgate release D3

[peterall]

Since fitting Black Widow drawers and a cargo barrier I have been worried about the lower tailgate release cable retainer clip breaking as has happened to many others. Other posters have described how to get the gate open from inside the D3 but a cargo barrier and drawers make this impossible.
I have now fitted a manual release (thanks to advise from garryc) so these steps may help others. I used some fine multi strand stainless steel fishing line leader and suitable crimp ferrules.
1. Remove lower tailgate top plastic cover (4 screws & 4 clips)
2. Remove both tailgate support cables.
3. Remove the carpeted backing cover.
4. Remove actuator electic connector and remove actuator (2 screws see pic 1 & 2)
5. Thread the cable under the actuator, loop it around and through the plastic retaining clip (this is the one that breaks) and secure with a ferrule. (see pic 3)
6. Feed the cable through the tailgate to the right and refit the acuator.
7. Drill a suitable hole in the RHS of the carpeted backing and thread your cable through.
8. Refit the carpeted backing cover.
At this point if you do not have drawers, simply form a loop in the cable end with a ferrule and secure it with tape or a small screw to the upper section of the carpeted cover until it is needed.
In my case, I drilled a small hole in the drawer surround (pic 4)and continued the cable through to the cargo barrier and secured the end there with a rubber band. (see pic 5)
A small tug on the cable, while someone lifts the upper tailgate is all that is needed.:)

[andyrover]

This post was a lifesaver for me! I just experienced my first D3 failure, of the electric latches on the tailgate. It failed when closed and just made a whirring noise. I looked at Disco3.co.uk site and found many hilarious stories of similar situations to mine ("if one of my designers came to me with this, he would be put on toilet cleaning duties for a week!"), because it really is a bugger when it fails closed. You have to tear the inner tailgate apart, ignoring the considerable damage caused, to get to the workings described in this post. Once inside, I was aghast to find the words, "Made in Canada", and "FoMoCo" on the mechanism. To think the makers of the Space Shuttle manouvering arm could produce such a piece of **** was unbearable to an ex-pat. The lack of a manual override is also inexcusable... So I made sure I included one as described in this post for the next time, thanks!

[stig0000]

its a very good idea as iv done countless door actuators, and do the hole lot from inside with out breaking a thing, the old way was to drill a big hole to fit your hand in and get to the cable, but theres another way:cool:

anyway, if i was to put that cable on id actually splice it to the cable, not just loop it round as that is were it breaks at the 90' bend;);) and it is often just floating about in the tailgate

[andyrover]

Please tell us, O Stig master, what is this "other way" of which you speak? (and is it "the way" or just "a way"?, with apologies to Siddhartha's Buddhist journeys)

[sniegy]

I would have to agree with Stig.
In this case if the cable was to break & you had this set up it would do nothing apart from pull the solenoid inwards. (cable is detached from solenoid)
It tends to break about an inch away from the solenoid end & leaves 2 ends of the freyed cable adrift in the tail gate area.
What you would need to do is splice into the cable at the other end before the cable heads into the sheath, that way if it breaks where it normally does you are tugging the cable that goes to release the latch.
It will work now because you have a connection with the cable, but when the cable breaks it wont do anything.

HTH.

When i first read the article, i didnt take any real notice as i didnt have a newer Disco at the time & thought what a great idea. Good on someone to take some preventative action to stop what could be a real pain the preverbial.

Cheers all.;)

[andyrover]

Sniegy, does the D4 have a better or improved tailgate release?

[sniegy]

Andyrover,
I dont think they have done anything to the release mechanism, it looks the same so would assume it is the same!:eek:

[garryc]

This post was a lifesaver for me! I just experienced my first D3 failure, of the electric latches on the tailgate. It failed when closed and just made a whirring noise. I looked at Disco3.co.uk site and found many hilarious stories of similar situations to mine ("if one of my designers came to me with this, he would be put on toilet cleaning duties for a week!"), because it really is a bugger when it fails closed. You have to tear the inner tailgate apart, ignoring the considerable damage caused, to get to the workings described in this post. Once inside, I was aghast to find the words, "Made in Canada", and "FoMoCo" on the mechanism. To think the makers of the Space Shuttle manouvering arm could produce such a piece of **** was unbearable to an ex-pat. The lack of a manual override is also inexcusable... So I made sure I included one as described in this post for the next time, thanks!

FoMoCo is the key word here:( Had 2 EA Falcons over 7 years(lease thankfully) Had more than just a latch broken. Think any part of the vehicle:o

[bbyer]

Once inside, I was aghast to find the words, "Made in Canada", and "FoMoCo" on the mechanism. To think the makers of the Space Shuttle manoeuvring arm could produce such a piece of **** was unbearable to an ex-pat. The lack of a manual override is also inexcusable... So I made sure I included one as described in this post for the next time, thanks! When I took the lower door apart to install my version of a manual release, I did not pay any attention to where the gold thing was made. It looked nice and was not corroded, but ... Made in Canada, that is nothing to be proud of.

Anyway, per the disco3 gallery link below, are a number of pictures and commentary showing my version of a manual release. About the only real difference is that I tied my release wire to the cable and had the wire rope exit thru the door carpet. The attachment method is not the best - a lead fishing weight squished to the cables, and I have since found a small U clamp sort of thing taken from a broken electrical circuit breaker but have not installed such as will wait until I actually have to use the release to get back in and redo the tie.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Liftgate release mod (http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=4155)

[~Rich~]

My cable broke for the second time over the W/E while we were away. :mad:
First time fixed by the stealer but this time fixed it myself.
It broke at the end on the 90 degree bend as per normal.
I used a old allen key and a electrical connector to make sure it can't happen again!
I'll post some pics of my fix.

[bbyer]

My cable broke for the second time over the W/E while we were away. :mad:
First time fixed by the stealer but this time fixed it myself.
It broke at the end on the 90 degree bend as per normal.
I used a old Allen key and a electrical connector to make sure it can't happen again!
I'll post some pics of my fix. I would appreciate some pictures, particularly of the electrical connector that you used to tie the wire rope to the Allen key.

Using an Allen key is I think a better alternative to an all new cable. The Allen key will not fatigue fail, that is for certain.

Was the L part that broke made of plastic material or metal?

I think the older ones were plastic and the newer replacement parts, all metal.

[~Rich~]

Well the one that just broke was alloy, I didn't see the first one!
Yeah I wanted to make sure that there is no chance of it happening again!
Pickies to come. ;)

[steved01]

Lots of the threads around the interweb thingy...

or here in AULRO... http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/127379-d3-tail-gate-jammed.html

[~Rich~]

Here is what I used:
A 3mm Allen key, I trimmed 5 mm off the short end before fitting.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/06/1190.jpg

One of these connectors.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/06/1191.jpg

I left the Alloy end on the cable and fed that through the connector first, then the Allen key. You can see the end of the Allen key poking through the hole on the bottom.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/06/1192.jpg

The end of the connector and end of the Alloy end are pushed close together before tightening the screws on the connector up real tight!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/06/1193.jpg
Note the Alloy end located above where it used to be pushed down in and now occupied by the Alley key. Add some cable ties to ensure it all stays where you want it and put it back together.

[robertj]

Thanks Rich for the post as I have just done mine with a slight change.
I have run a 80Kg lure line directly from the lock so that irrespective of where the OE cable/fitting lets go I will always be able to manually open the lock.
I have drilled a 2mm hole through the cam arm of the lock and then used a 3mm drill to de-burr and bevell the hole both sides (turn by hand as you only need to take the edge off)
You need to remove the lock assembly to successfully drill the hole and make sure you clear out all the drill turnings.
Works a treat
I have attached a photo of the lock asembly with the cable attached (I hope)

[Ashes]

Nice job!

Where do you locate the other end of the wire so you can get to it if it does happen to jam?

[oldsalt]

How do you undo the tailgate support cables ? - do they pop off or do you undo the nut ?
thanks

[bbyer]

When I did my repair, I suppose that you could just un thread the nut at the hex but instead I popped off the curved spring metal clip from the top of the ball portion of the hex.

This allows release of the cable from the hex. The thing to watch is that you do not let the loose cable ends wrap back into the windup mechanism. I used a fuel hose squeeze clamp on each of the cables to keep the cable ends from sucking back into the windups.

Re-clipping the C shaped spring metal clip back into the two little slots that it resides in was not all that easy. I later decided that with practice, it would not be that difficult. The main concern was not to loose the spring clips as that is what they did - spring.

[robertj]

Yes, you need to be careful with the cables as they will retract all the way and the only way to then retrieve the ends would to be remove the cargo bay lining.
When you disconnect the cables the tailgate will drop onto the bumper, put a towel down to cushion the tailgate to prevent any scratching and don't lean or sit on the tailgate or you will bend something!
I also took the clips off (carefully) but also removed the pins as it is easier to remove the trims. Mine were actually loose so I would suggest that these may need regular checking like the upper arm struts.
I ran the cable across to the right and ended in a loop like bbyer. Somewhere in the forums someone who has drawers fitted has run a cable back to the rear doors which makes sense.

[gdub]

Having trouble releasing tailgate on 2007 D3..... tailgate is in closed position.... carpeted panel is levered out and have found slot for screw driver using mirror and torch described in other posts. Tried to insert screwdriver for manual release to no avail is there a trick to this part of procedure. Planning to carry out modification if I can get door open.

[Ean Austral]

Just repaired mine with the allan key set-up, many thanks to the people who have posted on this.

I found I couldn't get my hands in enough to slot the lock with the screwdriver, so I popped the plastic cover off the end where the cable enters the locking mechanism, and was able to get 1 finger inside and feel the cable and pull it out the bottom, then get some long nose pliers and bingo..took about 1 minute when i decided to go that way.

I just cant help but wonder if that set-up is designed so it does fail and you need to buy a new latching set-up

Thanks again for the helpful posts.

Cheers Ean

[Graeme]

Re-clipping the C shaped spring metal clip back into the two little slots that it resides in was not all that easy. I later decided that with practice, it would not be that difficult. The main concern was not to loose the spring clips as that is what they did - spring.The clips need not be removed at all, just slid towards the cable as far as they will go after which the socket is free to be lifted off the ball.

[jz-is-fishing]

Just a variation. I drilled the locking mechanism, have seen photos on the Disco.UK site I think, rather than the allen key approach. Ran the cable to the bottom of the tailgate, right hand side, drilled a hole there right at the bottom edge of the plastic carpeted cover. BTW I ran the cable under the foam covering that is glued to the tailgate. I then drilled a small hole, enough for the cable into the plastic which covers the inside of the tailgate. The hole and wire are hidden under the plastic flip up cover so it's out of the way.

The cable is run all the way to the back opf the second row seats, under the covering which sits next to the third row seats on the right side of the rig.

A couple points worth mentioning. Not difficult to run the cable under the carpeted trim, but the trick was using a bungy cord, wrapped around the metal mechanism which holds the seat bottom realease for the third row seats and then tieing it back to the steel cable, under the carpeted trim. The reason for this is so that the cable is pulled back into the cavity and not alowed to bend the slack down into the tailgate seal (when it shuts), effectively immobilizing the emergency release. I used a butterfly knot directly on the cable as the clip in point for the bungy cord. Also note not to have too much tension or you could end up releasing the mechanism/lock accidently.

Anyway its another, what sounds like more complicated, approach allowing a cargo barrier to be in place and a load of gear. I'll have to take a photo at some point, at least of the locations of the cable. I'm afraid I have locked down the tie down bolts with lock-tight so they dont slip and would have to get to the shop to get more to un-do the bolts and barrier.

Cheers

[Hamma]

Thanks for all the posts re the tailgate failure. Just happened to me 8 hours before we are leaving for Fraser Island. Will be in Brisbane next, is there anyone there who can help me fix this bastard?
Thanks,
Hamma

[gdub]

Can be available Sunday 2nd December at Holland Park Brisbane if you still need assistance I think I can remember how to do it the hard part is getting the lining off and releasing the catch

gdub

[Hamma]

Gdub, thanks but got off the island today and a local fixed it with me in Rainbow Beach. Used silver solder to lock the cable back in. So that's fine, problem now is that the towball fell out of the back of the car as I was towing the caravan at 80kph down a hill. That was a bit of fun...not really. Need a new towball hitch now!!! Any idea best place in Brisbane to get one? Might try a wreckers first?
Hamma

[scarry]

Does anyone know,is the D4 an improved set up?

Don't seem to hear of any D4s that have tailgate release failures.

Mine has a cargo barrier in all the time so a little concerned.

[landoman]

Since fitting Black Widow drawers and a cargo barrier I have been worried about the lower tailgate release cable retainer clip breaking as has happened to many others. Other posters have described how to get the gate open from inside the D3 but a cargo barrier and drawers make this impossible.
I have now fitted a manual release (thanks to advise from garryc) so these steps may help others. I used some fine multi strand stainless steel fishing line leader and suitable crimp ferrules.
1. Remove lower tailgate top plastic cover (4 screws & 4 clips)
2. Remove both tailgate support cables.
3. Remove the carpeted backing cover.
4. Remove actuator electic connector and remove actuator (2 screws see pic 1 & 2)
5. Thread the cable under the actuator, loop it around and through the plastic retaining clip (this is the one that breaks) and secure with a ferrule. (see pic 3)
6. Feed the cable through the tailgate to the right and refit the acuator.
7. Drill a suitable hole in the RHS of the carpeted backing and thread your cable through.
8. Refit the carpeted backing cover.
At this point if you do not have drawers, simply form a loop in the cable end with a ferrule and secure it with tape or a small screw to the upper section of the carpeted cover until it is needed.
In my case, I drilled a small hole in the drawer surround (pic 4)and continued the cable through to the cargo barrier and secured the end there with a rubber band. (see pic 5)
A small tug on the cable, while someone lifts the upper tailgate is all that is needed.:)
i have been reading about this failure of the opening mechansim on the rear door .........I have a 2011 D4 and not sure if its still an issue ....but as I have installed a set of Drawers and in the event of failure it would now be impossible to get into the lower rear tailgate to release manually .....

so i am thinking of doing the manual release mod i have read about on this forum .......BUT .....i look at the carpet covered panel covering the rear lower tailgate and have no idea how it is supposed to be removed .....

there are what appears to be 4 covered screws on the out side ( pic attached ) .....do i prise these off and are there screws to undo under .....and then do i prize the panel out from under the black trim ........it is relativly easy to get in back in place

I dont want to in plough untill I know what im doing and do a lot of unneccessary damage ,,,,,,so any advice apprecaited

[bbyer]

The link below is to an album within which are a number of pictures.

I note now that most of the jpg's show about 600+ views so I guess some regard the pictures as helpful.

I presume a D4 tailgate is still much the same as a 2005 LR3 so yes, you remove the little black caps, undo the screws underneath and then detach the wind up cables so you can remove the black plastic end surrounds as well as the top black plastic cover.

One requirement is to have a stool or similar of an appropriate height to support the tail gate and some coats to use as cushions between the paint and the stool as once the cables are removed, there is nothing to support the tailgate. Well there is the bumper but ....

Also have some clamps of some sort to keep the cables from winding back up into the reel. I do not know what happens if they do but it is a fuss you do not need. I used a couple of those thumb screw type bleeder hose clamp offs.

And be careful when you are cutting into the dust seal - there are electrical wires just underneath - well there was with my 3.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Liftgate release mod (http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=4155)

[landoman]

Thanks Bbyer ....makes it look a bit less daunting

to undo the windup cables i assume you unscrew the nuts and they come out (but clamp them first to stop them reunning back into the mechanism as you point out )

In picture 6 of your attached pics ....it shows the gold acctuator mechanism (before removal ) underneight what appears some metal moulding in the tail gate ....when you undo the screws is it easy to remove .....and do you need to unplug any wiring from it

Thanks for the tip on being careful in cutting the membrane...............it appears i cut it more to the right hand side (as i look down at it) .....as that is where the acctuator is located .....to the right hand side ??? ........also I just duct tape over the cut when finished ...right ??

Like all good surgeons its a good idea to have some knoweledge of the anatomy of the patient before starting to operate ......so I really appreciate your help

[bbyer]

There is a spring clip per the jpg below that retains the cable to the ball of the stud. You pop off the spring - actually just sort of pry it up a bit; if it springs off, it might be gone for good so take care.

I think that the nut on the inside may be a loose nut and then more problems if you unscrew the ball stud. It is the same bit as the ball studs that retain the hydraulic struts re the upper gate at the top, (at least on the 3). If they ever come loose, you have a real problem as the retaining nut behind is not restrained by anything and just falls to well who knows where but for certain it does not stay up there.

I expect it is the same with the lower tail gate except that you could probably find the nut and put all back together. Also while you are at the rear, check the ball studs on each side at the top - the one of the top right used to self unscrew and come loose.

I do not recall unplugging the wiring and the gold box kind of slides out enough if I recall correctly. I seem to recall thinking how easy it was to get at the stuff, but it helps when the door is open and you are standing upright instead of squatting. If I did unplug the wiring, it was easy.

Yes, duct tape to suture the incision; I probably did more cutting than necessary and yes, the gold box is more to the right,

Cutting in about the middle rectangular depression works and then slitting to the right is about correct as you have to slide the gold box out. Duct tape is cheap and the carpet cover the wound. Just be caution of the wires as they glue themselves to the sticky of the dust seal so poke your finger in to feel ahead of where you are cutting.

[landoman]

ok great ....glad i checked as i was going to go for the nut with a spanner to release the cable ....i guess I pop off the spring with a flat screw driver ......and make sure i keep my eye on it as it pops off

in terms of the procedure I guess the top and 2 side plastic trims come off before i undo the two cables ....or is the cable removal a necessary part of getting off the two side black plastic trims ...( they dont seem to have any nuts or screws to undo )

tomorrow will put the patient under anaesthesa and perform the op .......

[AnD3rew]

Can someone describe to me what happens?

Is upper or lower that you can't open?

I ask because I am set up for remote touring and I have a cargo barrier so I can survive if I can open the upper tailgate but not the lower, but I would be in a lot of trouble if I couldn't open the back at all. I would probably have to break a window.

[SBD4]

Andrew, it's the lower one that fails.

[landoman]

I think ....but not sure as i have not opened up my patient yet .....that the top part of the tail gate locks into the lower part ,,.....and the failure issue is with the lower part .........hence the need for a mod that allows for manual release of the lower part ...that in turn releases the upper part .....someone who has better understanding and done the mod will be better able to explain ........but it looks like if you have drawers and /or cargo barrier and the systems fails ........you have no access .....so thats what im working on and trying to understand how to do the MOD

[bbyer]

Can someone describe to me what happens?

Is upper or lower that you can't open?

I ask because I am set up for remote touring and I have a cargo barrier so I can survive if I can open the upper tailgate but not the lower, but I would be in a lot of trouble if I couldn't open the back at all. I would probably have to break a window.

The miserable bit is that breaking the rear upper glass does not cause anything to open. Yes, it will allow you some access to the lower gate carpet to break that out - (what does it matter then), so eventually you can release what is left of the upper gate and then electrically release the lower half, (one hopes).

All the moving parts and electrical is in the lower half.

To answer a previous question, one easy way to get the carpet off assuming the lower end gate is down is to first remove the upper black plastic cap, then the wind up cables and then slide off the black plastic end caps. The carpet is glued to a piece of flexible backing and that is clipped to the metal of the lower end gate. The clips are supposed to pull free and release; for the most part, they do.

The more I think of it, some sort of manual cable release should be considered a necessary part of a cabinet install; as to a cargo barrier, I guess it should be part removable from the front side - kind of important if Fido is back there.

[scarry]

The problem seemed to occur on the D3,has anyone had this issue with the D4 or has it been modified in some way?

[landoman]

Performed sucessful anastomosis of a bifurcation to the main cable giving access to the posterior orifice of my LR to day .....the patient is well and the surgeon is chuffed

I attach pics of the mechanism of 2011 D4 so those familiar with this mod will be able to tell if its different from D3 ....I did note that the housing for the accentuator was silver not gold .....and it has that L shaped peice of metal folks talk about that goes into a bit of plastic ......I guess that bit of plastic is what breaks

Only problem I had was with the end black trims .....they would not come off ....and after applying force ....( not always the best approach ) the plastic plugs that go into the metal of the tail gate sheared off .....I applied super glue to them on the way back and hope it holds . I only removed one side and used the famous golf club retractor to keep the carpet skin back while I operated

I used nylon coated 7 strand 100 lb fishing wire .....(the nice thing about this stuff is you can weld it to itself with a gas lighter and make neat strong loops ) and two electrical joiners trimmed down as per pic ......then pushed the whole thing back up under the trim with a little peice of webbing protruding .......IN EVENT OF EMERGENCY PULL TAB .....tested it and it works a treat ....thanks for all the help .....one less thing to go wrong in middle of simpson desert.........only 5 pics allowed so a few more to follow

[landoman]

the rest of the pics ....im sure they will be helpful to someone......Oh ...and so glad for the tip to clamp the cable supports ....they really want to shoot into the cavity once you release them .....could be nasty to get them back out .......

[sniegy]

Nice to see the golf club doing a great job holding things up :-)

Also, where you have left the cable tucked away in the upper section of the lower tailgate, you may want to think about extending it & having it sit near the second row doors (again not sure if you have a cargo barrier installed &/or load space packed to the roof) as if it fails again & you have said barrier installed you will not be able to get at the pull cable.

Just a thought.

Cheers

@ Scarry - I have seen no failure in a D4 yet !

Sent from my iPad using Forum Runner

[scarry]

Nice to see the golf club doing a great job holding things up :-)

Also, where you have left the cable tucked away in the upper section of the lower tailgate, you may want to think about extending it & having it sit near the second row doors (again not sure if you have a cargo barrier installed &/or load space packed to the roof) as if it fails again & you have said barrier installed you will not be able to get at the pull cable.

Just a thought.

Cheers

@ Scarry - I have seen no failure in a D4 yet !

Sent from my iPad using Forum Runner

Thanks Sniegy:)

Good to hear,so they have made an improvement...:)

Mine has a cargo barrier fitted all the time so you can see why i was slightly concerned.

[AJU4]

Hi All,

Thanks for all that have contributed the this thread.

I recently purchased my first Disco, an 09 D3.

I am interested in this thread because my wife and I use the rear tailgate everyday. I have 4 Kids, all in car seats or boosters so I can not get access via the middle row. We use the tailgate, endlessly!!!

Question is has anyone tried or thought of installing a manual car door handle on the inside, sitting near where most have the cable exiting through the carpet. Therefore acting as a manual exit for the rear passenger and or emergency. I know a few have rear cargo barriers and boxes in your considerations, but I have the car full of Kids.

Say a flat black internal door handle from a Defender...?

[bbyer]

Actually LR has thought about a manual release and even knows how. The FFRR HSE has a manual release. After all the problems with the 3, I figured that when the 4 came out, it would have a manual release - not so.

As to putting one in oneself, I suppose it could be an upgrade kit for someone enterprising; as to using the interior door latch from a Defender, doesn't the flipper still break and you have to open the door using the exterior latch?

It was a skill all Defender/Series owners developed to set themselves apart from the pretenders.

I think that the tradition is still being maintained, but updated a bit.

[landoman]

does that mean that D4s have a different mechanism so may not fail ????....

Anyway i feel more comfortable with having this manual access mod in place ....even though i dont have a cargo barrier so i can acess the pull tab fairly easly the way im set up .....but would hate not to be able to get to my fridge for a coldie ......

[landoman]

Originally Posted by sniegy https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/768.jpg (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/101292-manual-tailgate-release-d3-post1885071.html#post1885071)
Nice to see the golf club doing a great job holding things up :-)

Also, where you have left the cable tucked away in the upper section of the lower tailgate, you may want to think about extending it & having it sit near the second row doors (again not sure if you have a cargo barrier installed &/or load space packed to the roof) as if it fails again & you have said barrier installed you will not be able to get at the pull cable.

Just a thought.

Cheers

@ Scarry - I have seen no failure in a D4 yet !








does that mean that D4s have a different mechanism so may not fail ????....

Anyway i feel more comfortable with having this manual access mod in place ....even though i dont have a cargo barrier so i can acess the pull tab fairly easly the way im set up .....but would hate not to be able to get to my fridge for a coldie ......

[aussiebeano]

I like many have had the tailgate stuck shut due to the cable breaking at the 90 degree alloy fitting (designed to fail) which attaches to the actuator.

I would like to add my 2 cents worth.

When performing step one from inside the back of the wagon.

You must use a lot of force to pop the carpeted (thick plastic panel in the lower wagon door with a thick screw driver from the under the tailgate upper trim. Recommend taking a deep breath as it feels like you are going to do some damage. Start in the middle where the horizontal meets the 45 degree upper trim and work towards the Left side (when facing rearwards). Use some more screw drivers or butter knives as additional levers (place holders).

The web link below is v good to describe what to do next, so I wont repeat it. Thanks again to all who come up with such awesome fixes for what is poor design from the owners perspective anyway. Great for the stealers.....:o

http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/13978/Liftgate%20Latch%20Diagnostics.pdfming step one from the inside of the back of the wagon

[bbyer]

I noted the comment in a previous post re no apparent failures of the metal L cable now in the D4.

Re my 2005 LR3, while the newer style metal L cable bit did not fail, the original factory installed gear motor inside the metal box that pulls on the cable did fail.

As such, the results were the same as if the L had broken; the upper hatch would not open. Hence I think even if the newer metal L cable release is installed, both vehicles still need a manual hatch release. It seems however LR still does not agree.

For me, the good news was that my fishing line manual release would still have resolved the problem but I did discover that with the engine running, there was still enough life in the gear motor to pull on the cable and open the upper hatch. With the engine off, the perhaps 2 volts lower system voltage was insufficient to power the gear motor but with the engine running, system voltage was higher and the motor was still strong enough to get one more pull out of it.

The replacement gear motor assembly, (the metal box), was part number FUG500010.

[shamirj]

hi all,
am i missing something here, pulled lower rear door apart to put in an manual release mechanism, and when depressing the top push button to release only the two actuators release on the sides not the problematic middle actuator for some reason. see video.

cant seem to see why it wont push in or out, can push it in manually but not electronically as it is supposed to do so. are the bolts holding in position the earthing bolts perhaps hence no power. help. otherwise the lower tailgate opens and locks fine. surely when depressing the button the actuator should slide side to side. any advice appreciated.

[shamirj]

video taped from iphone downloaded to pc as a .mov extention can view on pc but will not load onto aulro stating invalid attachment - how do people download video's to aulro please

[shamirj]

shouldn't the middle actuator be moving yet the tailgate locks and opens fine
doesn't seem like there is power going to actuator either, is there a specific fuse for this cant seem to find. or is my actuator dead. the push button seems to release the two side actuators only.

[shamirj]

had another look today at the manual release. pic attached seem like its in good cond re the elbow. not sure if this is the updated stronger one or not. decided to leave the manual release out for now.

my problem is the middle actuator does nothing when the micro switch is depressed strangely. i followed the cable to the latch on the top of the lower tailgate so this seems to un/lock the upper tailgate.

i cannot understand why the car locks and unlocks perfectly yet the middle actuator does not slide at all. am i missing something here. suggestions please. please confirm the long actuator in the middle of the lower tailgate is to un/lock the upper tailgate?

[shamirj]

the middle actuator in the lower tailgate un/locks the top tailgate, hence my dilemma. looking to move the said actuator to a more suitable location. cheers

[DiscoDB]

the middle actuator in the lower tailgate un/locks the top tailgate, hence my dilemma. looking to move the said actuator to a more suitable location. cheers

Shamirj, thanks for re-raising this post. Must admit I had not picked up on this issue until now. Manual release and the Allen key mod now on my list of things to do.

Me thinks you are getting no response as you may have an issue that no one has experienced before. I hope you solve and can post what you had to do when you do solve.

[sctsprin]

The actuator died on my D4, and so i had to do the dreaded trim removal with the doors closed.

I added a mountain bike gear cable to the lock mechanism itself and added a homemade L bracket to take the strain, then ran the cable out through to the rear seats, ideally i'd use a longer and thicker cable next time though so i don't have to put the 2nd row seats down to reach it

[LRD414]

Excellent. I will be visiting you with a case of beer and some mountain bike cable very soon. [emoji51]

Scott

[sctsprin]

As long as the beers frosty :D

I reckon tandem brake cable could do, 3.5m long


Excellent. I will be visiting you with a case of beer and some mountain bike cable very soon. [emoji51]

Scott

[ADMIRAL]

Try the heat weld type fishing trace. Easy to attach, and cut to length. I have drilled a neat hole in the lower lh corner of the metal on the tailgate. The trace is threaded through and another loop twisted into the end. I have then used body colour ( white in my case ) gaffer tape to affix the trace loop to the lh metal edge on the lwr tailgate. Sure you can see the loop when the tailgate is open, but it is not obvious. If the tailgate has to be opened, the bottom end of the loop is just accessible. Grab and pull !!!

[LRD414]

For long trips I have rear drawers and a cargo barrier and the potential for an inoperable tailgate has been bothering me. So last week I had James (sctsprin) assist me to proactively install a manual release cable directly to the lock, just like his (refer his post above). My vehicle is only 15 months old but it seemed like an excellent opportunity to get it done early with assistance from someone who'd been forced into being an expert :)

The task is not too hard if you have your tailgate open but I decided to put together a guide document with a few extra details that may help others.
It is a pdf file attached to this post.

Attaching the manual release directly to the lock seems like the best option because you will still have manual operation regardless of what element fails (cable or electric actuator).

Using a bike cable rather than just a wire trace allows the cable to be run through bends and grommets, be tucked away and still be easy to actuate.
Here it is under the 3rd row seats but I might even move this to under the carpet. The pull handle tucks under the 2nd row floor mat.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/584.jpg

In this photo you can see the factory cable that pulls towards bottom left of photo.
The manual cable is added to pull opposite direction, which is the same actuation because it is the other side of the pivot.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/585.jpg

In this photo you can see how the bike cable is attached.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/586.jpg

Complete actuator and lock removed from tailgate. More details on the task included in the attached pdf document.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/587.jpg

There is already some good info out there, including this video if the latch has already failed and the tailgate is closed:
How To Access Lower Tailgate Actuator Cable On LR3 (http://www.roverparts.com/resources/videos/accessing-lower-tailgate-actuator-cable-lr3/)

And here's another couple of useful threads for reference:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/186304-tailgate-wont-open.html
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/127379-d3-tail-gate-jammed.html

Hopefully someone finds the attached document useful. And thanks again to James for pioneering this bike cable solution.

Regards,
Scott

[Nicky]

Where did you get the modified spare tyre winder?

[LRD414]

Where did you get the modified spare tyre winder?
DIY, written up here: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/2423498-post20.html
I used a six-pointed 1" socket over the factory winder mechanism, which on more recent models had been changed from a normal hex head to an eye. It is intended that you use part of the scissor jack handle in the eye but the socket fits over. The 1" socket is then stepped down to 1/4 drive so that an extension bar can be inserted down between the rear seats when folded flat.
Other threads:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/152910-spare-wheel-winder-access-via-socket-extension.html
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/105413-extension-socket-spare-wheel-mechanism.html

Scott

[DJL9999]

Hi guys, so I may have missed this bit but I have drawers installed no cargo barrier, a fridge does present as quite and obstruction though and I can't open the rear upper tail gate to see if the lower works either... I've just finished setting up camp and the beer is locked in the fridge in the car so I'm quite desperate (devastated) but need to know how to get the tailgate open manually with zero access to the bottom door from behind... And limited access to the upper from inside. Any suggestions? D3 2007.

[LRD414]

.... need to know how to get the tailgate open manually with zero access to the bottom door from behind... And limited access to the upper from inside....
It is usually a failure of the upper tailgate latch, which is located in the lower tailgate. The lower itself doesn't seem to fail.
There is nothing you can do until you get access to the inside of lower tailgate.
The process starts like this (photos copied from Disco3, link below):
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/04/459.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/04/460.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/04/461.jpg

Then comes the tricky part.
There's a pretty good description and more photos in this Disco3 thread by Disco_Mickey:
DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - How To - Tailgate latch replacement (http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic99648.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/04/462.jpg

Good luck!

Cheers,
Scott

[sctsprin]

Have you tried running the engine (extra voltage) then trying to open the door?

[IvanR]

Have you tried pressing the "lock","unlocked" buttons on the dash. It maybe the micro switch in the tailgate handle has failed. Need to press both at same time and somebody to lift tailgate at the same time.

Ivan
ps mine failed his way.

[DJL9999]

Hi guys thanks - I tried the voltage and the unlock / lock etc. but after having dismantle and managed to slide (wrestle) the drawer system forward enough to crawl in I had access to beer, tools and the back tail gate.

The plastic prising apart was a bit daunting at the start but once I finally levered it out slightly it all came out.
Not fun and will be putting the Allen key and the manual release in tomorrow!!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/04/448.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/04/449.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/04/450.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/04/451.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/04/452.jpg

[bellenport]

Hi Guys. Just completed my repair of Rear Tailgate actuator assembly. Rather than dicking around trying to connect wires to Allen keys as per previous advice I’ve come up with s very simple fix. Simply use a piece of 2mm wire rope. Make a loop of approx 10cm. Thread it through plastic hole in the actuator and fix both ends to the actuator cable with a 2mm wire rope grip. Simple. Stronger. https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/03/76.jpg

[eddy]

All good until the actuator packs up,then you wished you had fitted a cable direct to the latch,while it was all apart.Better to make sure you can access to the beer!

[LRD414]

The task is not too hard if you have your tailgate open but I decided to put together a guide document with a few extra details that may help others.
I have revised the document to include a couple of improvements from David and correct an error in one photo.

Cheers,
Scott

[loanrangie]

It's on my list of things to do , I plan to use a D1 interior door release as a permanent release.

[Russrobe]

I have revised the document to include a couple of improvements from David and correct an error in one photo.

Cheers,
Scott

Thanks for this Scott. It's my turn, I've left it as long as I possibly can as it's completely given up opening the rear tailgate now, only works occasionally, so next time it works, i'll do this fix.. . Hopefully it opens again! I think i need to replace the whole lot as its been getting progressively slower at unlatching over 12 months.

On top of the lifter and rocker cover replacement i'm currently doing on another vehicle, and the evap aircon on the roof that's playing up, e,t,c ....

Not sure if i work harder on break or at work...

[Russrobe]

And the fun begins. What else do i need for the manual release? I'm trying to make a list as i read through, but have a feeling i'm going to miss something.

Piece of 3mm angle

Long bike brake cable

M5 bolt

2mm wire rope

Wire rope hold clamps


Was there anything else??
146629

[l00kin4]

Scott’s excellent manual has a parts list - link here: https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/101292-manual-tailgate-release-d3-7.html#post2835155

You can use spring clamps to hold the bike cable outer (I think grip is better if you use heatshrink first) at the mechanism end and at the other end there are lots of options for the handle. Small cable swages make for a neater job too

David


And the fun begins. What else do i need for the manual release? I'm trying to make a list as i read through, but have a feeling i'm going to miss something.

Piece of 3mm angle

Long bike brake cable

M5 bolt

2mm wire rope

Wire rope hold clamps


Was there anything else??
146629

[RANDLOVER]

It's on my list of things to do , I plan to use a D1 interior door release as a permanent release.

An alternative is this from Powerful UK Upper Tailgate Internal Release Modification for Land Rover Discovery 3 & 4 (powerfuluk.com) (https://www.powerfuluk.com/vehicles/land-rover/discovery-3/interior-accessories/upper-tailgate-internal-release-modification-for-land-rover-discovery-3-4.html) note they recommend replacing the water shield panel that needs removing to do the install.

[sctsprin]

We’ll thank god i did this mod 7 years ago, actuator failed again all of a sudden with no warning on the weekend when we were about to go on a trip, easy to use the cable to open the tailgate and then remove the trim. New part ordered on eBay for $60, cheaper than when i did it last time


The actuator died on my D4, and so i had to do the dreaded trim removal with the doors closed.

I added a mountain bike gear cable to the lock mechanism itself and added a homemade L bracket to take the strain, then ran the cable out through to the rear seats, ideally i'd use a longer and thicker cable next time though so i don't have to put the 2nd row seats down to reach it

[Tankmat]

We’ll thank god i did this mod 7 years ago

Thanks so much for pioneering this mod James, I’ve installed a bicycle cable release on mine and a mates D4 following the excellent write up by Scott. All D3/D4 owners should install one, if you need inspiration just look at post #65 in this thread
Cheers
Dean

[DiscoJeffster]

As a tip to those stuck and needing access, I found that starting the vehicle and getting the voltage up was enough to get the failing actuator to release. This was enough to get me through my weekend and to get it open to repair. At home I found a charger on the car was enough as well.

[PerthDisco]

And a further tip (at least for D3) is holding the interior lock and unlock buttons together for two seconds forces the tailgate to release.

You’ll need an assistant on hand to open it or it will catch half way.

Important because sometimes it’s the external switch in upper tailgate that fails and not the actuator in lower part. This will confirm what’s not working and keep you going for a while if it’s the switch.

Credit BradC you can also program key fob to pop the tailgate if switch is broken and open single handed but you can’t do this with a broken switch as it needs to ‘see’ the switch. Program fob now before it breaks just in case.

[sctsprin]

No worries mate, just my own version of work that others have published,
I really like the furniture release mod you can get now, not that it helps if you're got a cargo barrier and drawers installed and cant access it.


Thanks so much for pioneering this mod James, I’ve installed a bicycle cable release on mine and a mates D4 following the excellent write up by Scott. All D3/D4 owners should install one, if you need inspiration just look at post #65 in this thread
Cheers
Dean