Buying advice

[wolvespaul]

Hi, im thinking of purchasing a 98 2.0tdi freelander, im after a little advice.

I have looked at the car and found a couple of problems.

1, Boot tool box was full of water.
2, front tyres have flat spots on the inside( could this be to do with it being stuck in awd?
3, abs light on dash.
4, a few knocking noises going over uneven surface on roads.
5, oil leak under engine( cant see as a bash plate is fitted)
6, noticed some old glow plugs in boot, does these engines have start issues from cold.

This car has been off road, so i wanted to know what capability, the owner is looking for 5k as it stands, but im not sure its worth it, i currently own a 94 V8 disco and im looing to downsize for the wife,

Any advice welcome.

[inside]

I think the general consensus is to avoid the FL1. A Forester or Xtrail would be a better choice. Every car has its problems however the FL1 seems to cost a lot more to fix them.

[101RRS]

I think the general consensus is to avoid the FL1. A Forester or Xtrail would be a better choice. Every car has its problems however the FL1 seems to cost a lot more to fix them.

Not the diesels - and Freelanders are no more expensive to fix than any other car.

Garry

[101RRS]

Hi, im thinking of purchasing a 98 2.0tdi freelander, im after a little advice.

I have looked at the car and found a couple of problems.

1, Boot tool box was full of water. (the rear door has a design issue that allows water into the box when parked downhill in heavy rain - it dries out in a day or two and doesn't seem to rust out the floor)
2, front tyres have flat spots on the inside( could this be to do with it being stuck in awd? (cannot help with this - flat spots can be anything)
3, abs light on dash. (most likely dirt in a wheel sensor - a good clean/blast with an air hose could help - could also be a broken wire from a sensor)
4, a few knocking noises going over uneven surface on roads. (is it an old clunker - again could be almost anything - check suspension/shockie bushes)
5, oil leak under engine( cant see as a bash plate is fitted) (it is not a bash plate just a plastic undercover - oil filter?, leaking oil pump? engine main oil seal)
6, noticed some old glow plugs in boot, does these engines have start issues from cold. (not usually but one of the glow plugs is impossible to change without removing the pump)

This car has been off road, so i wanted to know what capability, the owner is looking for 5k as it stands, but im not sure its worth it, i currently own a 94 V8 disco and im looing to downsize for the wife, (as long as you do not have to climb steep hills slowly because of rough terrain they are OK if driven sensibly - no low range, ground clearance as standard is not the greatest. The Freelander has the same wheelbase as a D1, slightly wider track, about the same width but a lot shorter and a lot higher. $5K is a fair price for an early diesel.

Any advice welcome.

You need to check the condition of the Viscous Coupling. Do a search there is plenty on it.

Garry

[ADMIRAL]

I think the general consensus is to avoid the FL1. A Forester or Xtrail would be a better choice. Every car has its problems however the FL1 seems to cost a lot more to fix them.
No personal experience with the early Freelanders, but I do know a tech at the local LR dealer. I recall him telling me they had the gearboxes lined up in the workshop, and rotated them through about every three months. He would not touch one with a bargepole.
The dealer principle took me for the test drive before I ordered the Disco, and openly admitted the early Freelanders were lemons.

I guess it comes down to price. ( doesn't it always ) Get it cheap enough, and you can tolerate more issues. ( and have more left in the kitty to fix them. )

[101RRS]

Mine is 13 years old (build 1997) and has covered 270,000km and is still going well.

Garry

[woko]

With the gearboxes they would of been autos. they were a problem with the early autos. problem has been solved now. Diesel freelanders are excellent dont go near a petrol.

[wolvespaul]

whats the easiest way to fix the problem with the drive train being fixed in 4wd all the time, mine seems to struggle on full lock, which tells me the clutch or mechanism for the 4wd is stuck, i have heard this a commomn problem, but how does it work.

[loanrangie]

whats the easiest way to fix the problem with the drive train being fixed in 4wd all the time, mine seems to struggle on full lock, which tells me the clutch or mechanism for the 4wd is stuck, i have heard this a commomn problem, but how does it work.

Pretty sure they are fulltime 4wd so it may be an alignment problem or a problem with the IRD unit.

[big guy]

My old business partner had one.

Don't do it, from my experience and I must stress that its my experience that they are garbage.
No offence intended in any shape or form.
Stay away, buy a Rav 4 or nissan or something.

My carpenter bought one for his wife, 4 years on and 19 times for repairs under extended warranty they traded the car on a 320d BMW.
He got $6500 as trade in. It got there via flat bed truck.

Garbage from all my reports I have had in my 21 years with Land rovers/ Range rovers.
:(:(:(

[wolvespaul]

i have purchased it now, got it for alot less than the 5k he wanted.

I have removed the tailshaft completely, it now drives ok, it goes well too.
I have emailed somebdy who has the same car with a blown motor, to see if they will break it up for parts.

I will just have to play in my disco for now:D

[woko]

LR use a viscous coupling in the tail shaft to stop drive line wind up. Feeling like it is locking up on full lock is normal. The viscous coupling can seize and this usually damages IRD unit. There is a different ratio IRD unit available which stops the viscous coupling seizing. If you do a search on viscous coupling testing there are posts to check if it is seized. Garrycol has done a write up on testing I think