EAS Exhaust valve Fault

[33chinacars]

New problem with the "Tyrendarra Tractor"

Eas up arrow comes on , all lights flash, rear end goes up. As this usually happens at speed front end is in down mode. Makes for an interesting drive. Nose down bum up.
EAS Kicker says "Left Rear Exhaust valve perminately closed" Clear fault, no fault found. Now we go into high mode all round. Fault returns but now all 4 wheels are high. Kept going on our outing, let car sit over lunch. Went back and cleared fault again. No more problems for the rest of the day, all worked as it should. Whats going on. :confused:
Have got diaphram and full "o" ring kit to fit. Is there anything else I might need to replace. Dont want to attack before I have all parts needed.
Thanks in anticipation for all your assistance

Gary

[PaulP38a]

Gary - are you coming to Dave's place in Melbourne on Saturday? I'd be happy to check it out with you if you are.

Cheers, Paul.

[33chinacars]

Hi Paul
NO cant make it this weekend. Thanks for the offer anyway.
Forgot to say I've also got the dredded water in passenger foot well. Just something else to fix. Not a single sign of this one before we bought o well thats the way the cookie crumbles.

Gary

[Junosi]

I've also got the dredded water in passenger foot well.

That one might not be as bad as you first think. Both Paul and I had a similar problem that was water/condensate leaking from the ducting between the left blower and centre unit.

The fix for me was pretty simple - replace the perished foam seal in the duct joints - foam seal is available in Bunnings etc. In hindsight wrapping some duct tape around the joint, as well as new seal, would have been a good idea. The ducting is easy to get to once you remove the glovebox (easily done too). Mine took a bit of persuasion to get on and off as its a tight fit in there

edit: assuming its not the regular blocked valve (ducks bum)

[Hoges]

This sort of random behaviour can be the result of a faulty drive box and/or non-return valves playing up, so the quicker you are able to do the valve block o-ring overhaul the better. Make sure that you get absolutely NO lubricant on the Non-Return Valve o-rings.

Also examine the diaphragm carefully and look for powder deposits.

If they are evident then you need to dismantle the air dryer. Pour the desiccant into a kitchen strainer and sieve out all the fines. The fines get under the diaphragm /o-rings etc and cause leaks.

To regenerate the desiccant, spread the large granules on a baking tray and heat them in a fan forced oven at 90 degC for 2 hours. Let them cool in the oven and replace into the air dryer making sure the filter paper etc is in place.

While the system is dismantled, examine the resin sealant on the underside of the air suspension drive box (which screws to the valve block).

If the sealant is looking badly heat shocked it often means the drive unit is on its way out.
With the A$ now up to 0.61 GBP this morning, it's a great time to shop for spare parts on-line. e.g. You can get a new drive box for A$240 + postage from the UK at the moment (no VAT or GST). I've seen imaginative pricing at >A$600 locally :mad:.

[33chinacars]

Thanks Hoges

As per a previous thred from you already drying desiccant as I write. Will be refitted this afternoon. As for the "o" rings waiting on a parcel first. Then air block will be attacked.

Kind Regards

Gary

[MoodyBlue]

Gary,
The water usually is air con condensate, and gets on the floor via the OBD connector.
The cure is simple. Unblock the drain by gently using a piece of wire up from underneath. Up beside the tranny on each side is a air con drain and the left one is very prone to blockage by dust and crud.

Theres plenty of info and pics on rangerover.net

Cheer
Jeff

[33chinacars]

After replacing all the ''O'' rings & the diaphram in the air block as well as rebuilding the air compressor. Then going for a number of short test drives everything was O'k. Had also looked at Drive box appeared O'k to my untrained eye ?? as well as cleaned and dried dessicant.
Went for a longer drive to town today "Exhaust valve perminately closed" AGAIN:(. Bum up / nose down, then all up. After clearing fault with EAS Kicker no more problems, stop/start around town or on the way home.
Starting to get frustated. Apart from replacing drive box any other ideas.

Gary

[Hoges]

Sounds like the drive box (part No. ANR3900)..:mad:
Will cost a heap locally, best to import from UK
see Range Rover P38A--Electrical (http://www.britishparts.co.uk/.sc/ms/cat/Range%20Rover%20P38A--Electrical)

will probably cost $20-30 to be sent via DHL ...still probably less than half price locally......

Last week I got a new fuel pump from them for a tad under A$350 ... including sender etc... locals wanted over $800:twisted:

There were a quite a few other bits and pieces as well and the 4 day DHL delivery from the UK was only A$65 all up!

[DT-P38]

Maybe also give Andrew E a PM as he could well have a cheap second hand one in decent running condition.