View Full Version : Fuel problems
wolvespaul
28th March 2010, 11:49 AM
I have just chnged the fuel filter in my 2.0td, i have noticed that the hand primer loses its hardness after the system is bled, without starting up engine, i checked all the lines to make sure they were tight, i also noticed that where the fuel line goes into the top of the pump at the fitting, when the banjo is removed the fuel that is already in the top of the pump goes down, is this normal? i would of thought untill yo try an start it it would stay , is the pump supposed to keep buzzing when ignition is on with out starting?
101RRS
28th March 2010, 12:10 PM
I have just chnged the fuel filter in my 2.0td, i have noticed that the hand primer loses its hardness after the system is bled, without starting up engine, i checked all the lines to make sure they were tight, i also noticed that where the fuel line goes into the top of the pump at the fitting, when the banjo is removed the fuel that is already in the top of the pump goes down, is this normal? i would of thought untill yo try an start it it would stay , is the pump supposed to keep buzzing when ignition is on with out starting?
Do you actually have a fuel problem? Did you follow the bleeding process outlined in the manual - there is a set process.
To bleed prime the system - open valve at top of filter and pump bulb until fuel free of air comes out the filter valve. Keeping the bulb squeezed close filter valve. TURN ON IGNITION and pump the fuel bulb until the bulb is hard. Stop pumping and turn off the ignition. Push accelerator to the floor and then attempt to start as normal - engine will take longer to start - run at a fast idle for a minute to purge any remaining air. If the engine still runs rough or is hard to start there may still be air in the system - repeat purge bleed process.
L series is normally started without any accelerator. When there is difficulty starting sometimes pushing the accelerator to the floor is the solution - tells the ECU that there is a problem and please start me. Partial throttle settings are a no no.
The buzzing is normal.
No idea about other questions you asked - though the bulb replaces a lift pump so does not have to remain hard as long as it retains suction.
Garry
wolvespaul
28th March 2010, 01:26 PM
When warm she starts no problem, but if left for a while she wont start easy, glow plugs are new, i have power up to them as i tested it with my test lamp. where is the relay located for reference?
Thought maybe change the filter, il try the bleed process.
Cheers Paul
wolvespaul
28th March 2010, 02:56 PM
Bled system as requires 3 times, i seem to be getting air in the system when i leave it for an hour or so, starts very rough.
Do these cars have any problems wiht sucking air?
101RRS
28th March 2010, 03:13 PM
L series will start Ok in summer pretty well without glow plugs so I would not be too concerned about them at the moment. No idea where the relay is but it will be in the manual somewhere.
The L series does have starting problems if there is still air in the fuel system but the system is simple and does not have issues sucking in air once set up. When I last changed my fuel filter I rushed it and just pumped the bulb up and it started Ok - later it became difficult to start - I then followed the correct procedure and never had a problem since.
Unless you have a perished hose somewhere I would still be thinking that there is air in there somewhere.
Garry
wolvespaul
29th March 2010, 07:56 PM
After changing the copper washers in the banjo fitting in pump, and checking the fuel lines for problems i bled the system again by the system proposed, car still has starting problem when left standing for a couple of hours, plus it pumps out lots of white smoke when trying to start, is this unburnt fuel?
Air is present in the fuel filter everytime i crack the bleed screw.
I may just run a hose directly from the filter to the filter to bypass the steel pipes above gearbox to see what happens.
If the fuel pump were to be faulty, would it give me the same symptoms?
woko
29th March 2010, 08:17 PM
Sounds like air is still in system. get it running and go for a 5 min drive. then leave it overnight. dont open any fuel lines. Should be good
wolvespaul
30th March 2010, 05:07 AM
problem still there after driving 120k to work and back, feels ok when driving.
once left for a while its hard to start, and seems to air in the system.
woko
30th March 2010, 07:21 PM
Did you have this problem before you changed the filter? Is it only when the engine is cold it is hard to start?
wolvespaul
30th March 2010, 07:49 PM
Yes the problem has been there since i got it, was suspect when i looked at it as the engine was warm, just one of those things you find out later.
I changed the filter thinking it may be part of the problem, i have tested power to the glow plugs with a 12v test lamp, which goes out after a short time, 3 glow plugs are new just the one behind the pump has not been changed, and it is faulty. waiting to do belts so will remove pump then.
I'm none the wiser as to why the filter always has air everytime i check it, i have bypassed the steel pipe and hose from the filter to the pump also, thinking there may be a small crack, what about the lines from the tank?
woko
30th March 2010, 08:03 PM
Advance the injector pump. Check the plunger lift you will find it is at about 0.2mm adjust it to 0.8mm to 1.00mm. Had a few with same symptoms and they had spent heaps on new glow plugs injectors etc, nothing worked until advancing pump
wolvespaul
30th March 2010, 08:10 PM
Where is the plunger located on the pump? Sorry for the daft question...
will turning the pump away from the engine block be advancing it?
woko
30th March 2010, 08:46 PM
Where all the injector lines are at the back of the pump right in the middle of them the will be a bolt, remove the bolt, fit a small piece of rod in the hole and measure the lift with a dial gauge on the end of the rod. There is a tool that screws into where the bolt was removed but a small piece of rod works fine.
Yes turning away from block is advance (anti clockwise).
The pulley on the Cam is held on with 4 bolts and the holes are elongated, you can give it 1/4 to 1/2 tooth advance there quickly and adjust it correctly when you remove pump to do the 1 glow plug as the pulley on the pump can be difficult to remove.
wolvespaul
9th April 2010, 07:25 AM
I decided that i would just adjust the pump 1 tooth on the belt, i fired staright away, could not get the dial guage in and did not have timne to take off lines.
Will one tooth make a big difference?
woko
10th April 2010, 06:58 PM
too much advance is bad. Try 1/4 of a tooth. Loosen the 4 bolts on the cam pulley and turn the engine to advance. The holes in the cam pulley are elongated and you will be able to adjust a small amount. If it is still hard to start go 1/2
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