Little Miss Adventure

[dullbird]

So the time has come.......:eek:

I have decided that i'm going to start the series as it is been sitting around a little too long now and I want this little car up and running to potter down to the local produce store to pick up hay and feed for when I get my horse:)

However there is only one glitch to this....I'm doing it:eek:.
I have never rebuilt a car before so first time for everything I suppose.

I only made a quick start today taking off the bullbar that had smashed in the passenger wing and making a start of taking the wings off. Unfortunately I never even got as far as getting the wings (mudguards/fenders) off as a lot of the bolts were well and truly seized on...but got a good amount undone so hopefully next time I have a bit of time they will be off

The progress will be slow as it will be learn as you go along for me:) so dont expect a thread like Cal's or the rovacraft team :lol2:

But by me putting this thread up is me committing to doing it

just a couple of pics of the old girl..

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/03/248.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/652.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/03/249.jpg

The one good thing about this car is the engine might not look great but it starts beautifully and runs like it has never done a days work in its life:)....so the main part of this project will be cosmetic

[isuzutoo-eh]

Woohoo! Get into it!
I'm getting stuck back into mine too.
Crawl all over it with the penetrating spray stuff, I do that once a week just about. And when you do a screw/bolt/nut back up, make sure you put some antisieze on it or next time you'll have the same fight all over again ;)

[dullbird]

Woohoo! Get into it!
I'm getting stuck back into mine too.
Crawl all over it with the penetrating spray stuff, I do that once a week just about. And when you do a screw/bolt/nut back up, make sure you
put some antisieze on it or next time you'll have the same fight all over again ;)

I only intend on doing this once:eek::D

[isuzutoo-eh]

I only intend on doing this once:eek::D

I just know I am going to quote this back to you again :D

[Sleepy]

Good onya DB. Looks like a lovely old ute. Keep us posted.:)

[abaddonxi]

So, at the first sign of trouble, does the thread title change to Little Misadventure?

:D:D:D

Looking forward to pics, etc.

[Randylandy]

Only way to learn is to get stuck in and have a go. Would just do little projects at a time so it does not end up like mine sitting in the corner dissasembled and in waiting for some time to get some more stuff done.

[THE BOOGER]

its all fun series rovers seem to just keep going more reliable than the others in the 2nd pic:twisted: You will probably get to know the guys at land vehical spares pretty good :D

[Bundalene]

Now I see why you wanted those wings from the tip,

Erich

[dullbird]

I have some wings now....my Plan is to change the doors and wings (I have the doors but need hinges now) and then I will spray all in situ..

[dullbird]

So, at the first sign of trouble, does the

thread title change to Little Misadventure?

:D:D:D

Looking forward to pics, etc.


its a play on words really...but the ar name actually leans towards that name then the other....

Scouse actually named this car... and I'm sure he meant misadventure knowing his humor:D.,.

thats why I liked it becasue it could be taken either way:)

[loanrangie]

It looks like a pretty neat car , if mechanically its fine i would leave the rest alone as it has character - unless you plan on a full respray.

[cal415]

Nice project! i would love to do a similar rebuild to a series keeping it original(mostly) but my wife would kill me if another LR turned up... i already have the county and another little project in the works which she doesnt know about :)


Is there any rust in it? Whats the plan for the rebuild, full strip down to the chassis freshen everything up or just replace the bad bits and a fresh paint job? Got any more piccies of it showing the whole vehicle? It looks pretty cool, i had a IIa sitting in my yard for a long time which i always wanted to fix but the it was to far gone cancer wise...

Looking forward to see the progress!

[dullbird]

these are the only other pics I have of it at the moment....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/03/93.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/03/94.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/03/95.jpg

At the moment the idea for me is just replace the bad bits and spray it...the chassis has no rust what so ever the only things is the fire wall has a crack on the A pillar so once wings and doors are off need to assess whether this is repairable or we have to change the firewall.

Don't really want another firewall change so hopefully is fixable.......

The car was given to me....after a guy wanted it moved from his paddock. he used it to feed the cows and stuff I think, however he took it out one day and snapped the half shaft in the front carried on driving it and snapped the one in the rear so left it where it broke..

It sat there for a month until I picked it up....went out to get it and the little rover engine started first time and ran as smooth as :)

loan rangie...this little car has more than character unfortunately so things do need to be changed...its a little bit too rough in the body work to leave:D

The car used to do the post runs in Queensland before this guys dad bought it (he was the second owner and passed it to this guy..who then gave it to me as he thought an enthusiast would get more out of it.

I got some lights coming..I have wings to replace the bad ones..I have door to replace the ones on it as there not great..couple of diffs and some half shafts. Just need to get a hold of some sheet metal so I can replace the floor through some paint on and some reasonable tyres and hopefully she will be apples enough to roadworthy.

Then we can potter her around thirlmere picking up the hay and stuff:)

[series3]

Hey DB,

Nice landy, i would be happy with that! i like the safari roof and visor. are you going to respray it the same colour? is the grey an original colour?

You must be happy with the engine, any idea of how many kms it has clocked up?

[dullbird]

45046

so I guess 45 thousand and I assume its miles as the speedo is in MPH

also its not grey but purple! yes that's right a sort of lilac/purple colour:D

thinking of just doing it sand or limestone, white roof and wheels not sure whether to do the tray the same colour as the body or black...

when I get home early enough and there is some decent light I guess I should take photo's of all of it even the bad bits to document it.
At least then it will look like I have done something :lol2:

[series3]

limestone does look good, i think the spelling enforcer has one (or did)..

[dullbird]

I really wanted to keep it original as possible, but money is not going to permit that so I have decided to keep it as original as I can but hopefully with a couple of subtle modern touches:)

[Captain_Rightfoot]

I had never done more than change the oil in a car when we bought our Lotus Elan. The guy who sold it to us of course said it was great, and the inspection we had done said it was ok too.

However when we got it home we found it had rust in the chassis which required a complete re-build. I learnt a lot in that whole experience. It was tough at times, but rewarding. After you are done you'll know your car more than you thought possible.

If something is really obscure, a major safety item, or requiring of custom tools don't be afraid to pay someone to do it for you. As long as you do the most of it you'll get the benefit.

Good luck :)

[dullbird]

So while I was taking a picture of my hinge for another thread I thought this would be a good pic to show you the crack on the firewall...I know I said A pillar which is further up but wasn't sure how to describe this......

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/03/89.jpg

as you can see its a sizable crack but hopeful that it can be rubbed back and welded up....
This is the only damage that we have found on the firewall other than a bit of bog on the other side near the flap and blow the windscreen which we were very suspicious off however putting a magnet to it it holds very very well....so hoping that was just a small patch up job..

I guess only time will tell after we start pulling a few things off...I'm praying we don't have to change the firewall as we did that on the 90 and it was just painful

[d@rk51d3]

Awwwww. Now isn't she a sweet little series. :)

[matti4556]

:)Hey DB! - What a beaut little car you got there - I can almost see it smiling with all the attention
You say 45046 miles on the odometer - how many times around do you think? :D I had a Series 3 that had an odometer like that - lucky they now go up to 6 major digits.
Have fun - I will be watching with interest. - Matti

[The ho har's]

DB have fun.. we have just finished my series 3 rebuild what a great job it was....sooo much fun to drive

Mrs hh:angel:

PS will look in parts box to see how any 2a door hinges we have;)

[The ho har's]

DB have fun.. we have just finished my series 3 rebuild what a great job it was....sooo much fun to drive

Mrs hh:angel:

PS will look in parts box to see how any 2a door hinges we have

[dullbird]

So I have just spent 4hrs tidying the garage:mad: so I can actually get the series into it, making me able to work on the thing when I get home from work in the evenings.......:)

P.s no need for the hinges I dont think MrsHH as I have just bought a pin kit so hopefully can give the ones I have a little TLC

[dullbird]

ok little bit done tonight.....(only a little though) wing off, door off, hinges off, front and rear drums off, rear axle out (Ian did this while I was at work and the rear axle has snapped as suspected although at the diff end which is annoying).
Everything is literally bolted together. So it takes so much longer to get everything off, unlike land rovers of today they put 40 nuts and bolts on to hold on one wing not 3:lol2:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/1590.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/1591.jpg

This is the corner that has been bogged

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/1592.jpg

As we pulled off the wing, we have sort of pondered not just getting it up and running now, but pulling the engine so we can paint up all the firewall and chassis rails properly. Especially as we are still unsure whether the firewall is workable or not. so this might end up a long restoration after all.:(

I hope not....as I don't want this sat around for ever and a day like the bloody 90 did

One thing I noticed on the front of the axle is a lot of reinforcing is that standard?

[Shonky]

Mark has my engine crane at the moment, but if you decide to pluck the donk you can borrow it. ;)

Looking good! :D

PS - Pics of reinforcing on axle housing?

[isuzutoo-eh]

Yeah engine crane is sitting idle at the moment, and I think the engine stand will be too since I need to hide the diesel somewhere till I get another Landy to put it in.
If you need wheels and aren't worried about looks, I have some 15x8" sunraysias with moderately okay tyres that are redundant to me. Check in the markets section.

[dullbird]

an engine crane would be handy we are planning to buy one just dont have the dollas at this stage we have our own engine stand already...

I also have 2 sets of wheel for the series already the set on it and the set taken off the one we wrecked just need to find some cheap tyres for it.

Andrew I will try and take pics of the front axel this evening...is it standard feature or not?

[isuzutoo-eh]

No Probs Lou.
Axle reinforcing: Front or rear axle? If front, it doesn't sound common to me, or at least mine doesn't have any on the front axle. The rear banjo type diffs such as yours has often did have reinforcing.

[dullbird]

ok some pics the reinforcing could of been a home job I guess...I say reinforcing perhaps better described as protection maybe?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/1444.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/1445.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/1446.jpg

does anyone know...as I was told that this is a rover engine. did they all come with red paint on the block?
you can just see it in this picture here.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/1447.jpg

[Dinty]

G'day All, The strengthening kit on the diff/housings was an optional extra for the civilian S2A, it was std on S2A/S3 military machines of the day, and yes that is a 4 cyl 2 1/4litre engine, most original colour for the engine was a sorta duck egg blue, but I have seen them yellow, red etc cheers Dennis:angel:

[dullbird]

woooo hoooo you mean I actually own a car that was optioned up:D

the rear is reinforced as well and looks even more so than the front...the pictures above are of the front axle,

there is some rust also in the drivers foot well looks like that perhaps they may of had a leak from the slave cylinder at some stage as this part now looks new, but the foot well has gone. I'm not to worried as I have seen you can get a pair of foot wells to weld in for 220bux.

its this crack on the actual firewall I'm concerned about as to whether it can be re welded.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/1432.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/1433.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/1434.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/1435.jpg

[Shonky]

Crank out ye olde wire wheel and get rid of all that paint and filler. Then you can have a good look at what is actually cracked, and where it extends to.

[dullbird]

andrew I dont hink there is filler on that bit..it looks like it on the photo but I dont think there is

[groucho]

andrew I dont hink there is filler on that bit..it looks like it on the photo but I dont think there is

That pillar is full of bog you can see the sander marks in it.It's not that thick to crack like that......

[dullbird]

That pillar is full of bog you can see the sander marks in it.It's not that thick to crack like that......

Ok I will take your word for it but it honestly looks like metal when your up close not filler......
Can I ask which pic you can see the sand marks in :)
bare in mind I think the car might have been hand painted by the way a lot of brush looking marks are all over it

the other side is bogged well and truly.

i will take it back when I get a chance and take more photo's....

Hey Andrew you gunna come help me take out the engine?:)

[groucho]

2 / 3 / 4th piccy been bogged and rubbed down with a house brick
Not Knocking you at all but that old girl is going to take a bit more than a dulux O/H if you want to get it rego'd. After they have lived on the farm
that's what you have to deal with. Take a close look at the tie rods especially the one from the relay, it looks like major rust pitting be sure to change that. That's the fun about restoring a series but sometimes it goes on and on. the more you dig the more you find. Have fun.
Mark

[Scouse]

Hey Andrew you gunna come help me take out the engine?:)I have a nice big A frame with a block & tackle if you want to use it. It dismantles & fits on top of a 6x4 trailer.

[dullbird]

yes we know that all the tie rods are gone that was obvious its staring you in the face...

what do you mean by a dulux O/H ?..you mean just a paint and leave it at that?

If that's what you mean I have no intention of doing that if I find rust I will fix it.......I never thought for a second it was gunna be a two minute job. from what I can see the chassis is pretty good the engine runs really well..the springs need some attention and the shocks need changing and some steering components need to be looked at the rest is cosmetic.

I could be proven well and truly wrong of course when I start to uncover things but the main components as far as I can see (the bits I feel turn it into a major restoration if knackered) at this point are OK:)...I dont deem the firewall as a major restoration if it needs to be changed just a pain in the arse..1 to change (although I have moe space to execute this now) and 2 to buy one that is not as knackered as this one could be

[Shonky]

Hey Andrew you gunna come help me take out the engine?:)

Let me know when. ;)




what do you mean by a dulux O/H ?..you mean just a paint and leave it at that?

Dulux Over Haul.

After doing the firewall on the 90, a series one for you will be a piece of ****!

[dullbird]

Let me know when. ;)




Dulux Over Haul.

After doing the firewall on the 90, a series one for you will be a piece of ****!

lets hope so because we have decided to defiantly remove it...

I'm trying to find a firewall now but looks like I could be buying a repair kit from the UK.....which I think with UK postage is going to set me back around 350/400 bux that's just for the two footwells and the two side bits that make up the top hinge bolt location near the flaps..

we just need to finish removing axles and stuff so we can put the wheels back on to move it around enough to get a crane in to whip out the engine.:)

[Shonky]

You could almost certainly find a whole good firewall for that money!

[dullbird]

I'm pleased to say that the previous own is watching this thread for the progress....

the cracks in the firewall were there when they got there car in 1972...and have not gotten any worse as the car was always garaged...

the only work done on the car was new water pump/hoses etc and i think he said the roter? was overhauled and new plugs. there was also some repair to the spring hanger that had rubbed on the chassis (which I knew about)...

the bushes are couple of years old as are shocks and springs

[cal415]

I think you could easily repair that firewall, just get onto it with a wirewheel on the drill strip it back to bare metal around the bad bits and see what the paint is hiding, that little crack would weld up and clean up no worries.

[dullbird]

no much progress but like I said it would be slow:)

I took off the grill and radiator support thingy...and also removed the radiator.
Going to take radiator at some stage to a shop to be looked at it, as it has a fairly large surface area of damaged fins where it looked like the metal fan blades may have contacted it, but I'm more worried about the two holes that seem to penetrate the radiator near the bottom.

The radiator was not loosing coolant so the holes haven't damaged anything major I don't think...the radiator looks like it may of had bolts through it there that sort of size whole (around M8 size).

Now someone's going to tell me its supposed to be like that aren't you and that it was an option:D

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/999.jpg

going to get some degresser tomorrow and soak all around the front of the block and the diff....as I noticed a large build up of crud so something is leaking oil somewhere.

you can see the build up on these pics

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/1000.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/1001.jpg

Sorry about the crappy picture quality....even with two halogens heating up the place still wasn't enough light to get sharp shots:(

[dullbird]

so here are some degreased pics :D and what a colourful little engine it is..reds and creams and yellows :lol2: the diff is also red which surprised me totally wasn't expecting that:D

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/926.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/12/916.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/927.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/928.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/929.jpg


I also cleared all the junk out of the tray...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/930.jpg

as you can see it has rusted down the end...this is the cross member end

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/931.jpg

I can imagine what this piece of Gal sheet might be hiding looking at this little hole

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/932.jpg

also I asked about metal and the biggest size you could get in sheet in another thread, and I remember someone saying dont get smaller pieces and weld as it will buckle and warp.

I noticed on the tray that it was not flat and seemed to have lots of bumps and uneven parts...so I looked closer and sure enough small pieces welded together.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/933.jpg

so all this will be cut out and I'm hoping I can get a sheet big enough to lay it straight in and have it welded up all in one go

[dullbird]

now just need to organise a engine pulling BBQ :D....dates anyone?

[Shonky]

8/9 May?

April is a write off for me...

[dullbird]

working...and need to purchase an engine crane too:)

maybe the end of may?

[isuzutoo-eh]

Shonky's engine crane will be available for your use end of May...

(or most time before but I need it for another two weeks or so)

[dullbird]

you gunna come over Mark?

[isuzutoo-eh]

Only if I'm invited :D
(read that as 'For Sure')

[dullbird]

cool cool :banana:

So how about 29th/30th May?

got my wire wheels ready for the take back of the firewall too:)...I dont want to do that until engine is out though

EDIT: ohhh Ian is also off on the 30th. we could do a BBQ lunch:) and invite others along

[Shonky]

30th works for me... ;)

[isuzutoo-eh]

It's written on my calendar :D

[dullbird]

30th it is then:)

[Cap]

Well done so far DB, going great. Im envious as I too wish to do a similar project one day... when I have a shed, tools, and of course, a LR Series.

Love this pic, Series, Disco and Fender... B-E-A-Utiful!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/652.jpg

[dullbird]

thanks stooge..

just got the go ahead for the loan so we can build the shed too.....

however this will stay in the garage so I can work on it after work...

Can't do a great deal at the moment other than swap out the axles etc, hopefully all going to plan the engine will be out on the 30th of May then I can strip back the firewall and see if it is going to be kept.

the tray will then come off and I will get to work on cleaning the chassis checking it and getting it ready for a spray with hopefully POR15:)

[Landy Smurf]

sounding good DB

[Shonky]

I find POR15 to be more pain than it is worth. (and it is worth a lot! $$$)

My thoughts, just get some thick black enamel. Thats the stuff that has done a good job for the last half a century! Cheap, easy and effective.

[isuzutoo-eh]

I've been splashing Penetrol around, seems good so far. One bit is on the headlight grills on my County so i'll tell you how it goes after a bit of UV exposure soon. You can mix it with paint too. I reckon that's the go.

[dullbird]

I find POR15 to be more pain than it is worth. (and it is worth a lot! $$$)

My thoughts, just get some thick black enamel. Thats the stuff that has done a good job for the last half a century! Cheap, easy and effective.

maybe your right shonky.....especially as POR15 I would have to brush on rather than spray which would take up a lot more time.

I have rubbed back the inside of the mudguards and sprayed them with kill rust slightly pointless but they look neat:)...

I'm however tossing up the idea of getting the car completely undersealed what are your thoughts on this? I had the 90 steam cleaned and under-sealed in the UK before bringing it here and it lasted for years really seemed to protect everything

[Cap]

I agree, if the LR is going to be used for light duties, then POR15 is a waste of $$ (although a very good product).

[dullbird]

Well thats annoying...

I had some other doors here waiting to be used was going to take the best bits from each to make up some reasonable doors..

until I went to change over window tops and found I was able to easily punch holes through the bottom of the frames and door bottoms of the doors, we pulled off our wrecker.

so I have doors that look great! but are actually shagged!
and doors that seriously looked shagged but are more usable then the ones that look great! :(

I guess I will be cracking out the car body filler and welder.....I guess I'm going to have to learn to weld at some stage :lol2:

[isuzutoo-eh]

use the skins off the look-good doors on the frames of the structurally-alright ones?

[Shonky]

maybe your right shonky.....especially as POR15 I would have to brush on rather than spray which would take up a lot more time.

I'm however tossing up the idea of getting the car completely undersealed what are your thoughts on this? I had the 90 steam cleaned and under-sealed in the UK before bringing it here and it lasted for years really seemed to protect everything

I wouldn't say brushing would take any more time. Certainly what you gain in applying by spray you lose in set up, mixing and cleanup. Nothing beats cracking a can of $30 GMH black and slopping it around with a $5 brush which you throw in a jar of thinners afterwards and leave it there. I did Gus with the above, and the finish is smooth, shiney and rock hard for no effort. It looks just like the original too. ;)

I wouldn't bother undersealing a series. If it cracks it can trap moisture underneath and create a perfect environment for rust to go unnoticed. It may slightly reduce heat and noise, but by nature it is still going to be hot and noisy!

It's only a weekend car. You won't get your value out of it and it won't look original.

My thoughts. It's yours so the end decision is up to you for whatever reasons you see fit. :)

[korg20000bc]

I wouldn't say brushing would take any more time. Certainly what you gain in applying by spray you lose in set up, mixing and cleanup. Nothing beats cracking a can of $30 GMH black and slopping it around with a $5 brush which you throw in a jar of thinners afterwards and leave it there. I did Gus with the above, and the finish is smooth, shiney and rock hard for no effort. It looks just like the original too. ;)



What's GMH paint?

[dullbird]

Nah shonky I would far rather use a spray gun anytime over brush. Spray gun takes 5mins to set up:)

[Scouse]

What's GMH paint?Also known as chassis black. It's basically a cheap, quick drying semi gloss black paint.


(http://www.autobarn.com.au/products/6/39/4214255/)

[Shonky]

Also known as chassis black. It's basically a cheap, quick drying semi gloss black paint.


(http://www.autobarn.com.au/products/6/39/4214255/)

^ Wot he said! ;)

[korg20000bc]

^ Wot he said! ;)

Yeah, I thought it was something like that but don't want to miss out on something :)

[dullbird]

Took the tray off this evening as well as the rear springs and the axle will take better pics tomorrow in the day light:)...its great having a new lens I can actually stand in the garage and take pics now :lol2:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/05/1355.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/05/1356.jpg





so I have a 5 litre tin of chassis black paint:)

[dullbird]

So we have found our first bit of rust

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/05/1326.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/05/1327.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/05/1328.jpg

this is at the back on the drivers side near the outrigger it was basically where the feet of the tray sat, so no doubt had trapped moisture there (only on this side though which is odd).... Hoping this will just be a chop out and a weld in section. this is all we have found so far..decided to dismount the cab and have a look as well..would hate to do everything to find a hole under there after everything is back together.

Also took some pics of the tray
See what I mean about it needing a new floor:D...or do you think it will buff out with a wire brush :lol2:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/05/1329.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/05/1320.jpg

and a pic of the diff..

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/05/1330.jpg

still has the end of the half shaft stuck in it:D

Thought this looked a little mashed too

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/05/1331.jpg

can anyone tell me whether there is any difference between a shorty rear diff and a LWB rear diff...not talking housings or anything just fitment of the diff as I have a diff here from a shorty which I can put in its place if there is no difference

[groucho]

Talking rover diffs Not salisbury they are the same.
That one has had a broken axle at one time.......

[isuzutoo-eh]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/05/1320.jpg
Narrowest Disco I have ever seen :D

Regarding your rear diffs, 99% sure they are the same internals, as your LWB has the Rover type diff not Salisbury. Externals are a bit different in spring mounts I think.

[dullbird]

Talking rover diffs Not salisbury they are the same.
That one has had a broken axle at one time.......

yes groucho both were broken front and back I believe hence how I got the vehicle farmer that owned it left it were it broke:D

[groucho]

That"s shure is getting the last mile out of it then...:p

[dullbird]

That"s shure is getting the last mile out of it then...:p

I can't remember whether he told me front broke and he carried on driving until the rear broke or the other way around...tough little vehicle:D

[dullbird]

Front axle has now been removed

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/05/715.jpg

As has the roof

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/05/716.jpg

and also the seat box

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/05/717.jpg

Gear box needs a bit of a clean to see if it has any leaks that are attracting that dirt.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/05/718.jpg

Hoping tomorrow the rear of the cab will come off then the only thing left to take off will be the engine which is happening on the 30th hopefully:)

Soon as the engine is out I'm going to paint the chassis and assess the firewall to see if it is repairable or worth just getting another.

Does anyone know also whether the quarter glass in the cab (not sure that's the right word) is the same as the glass in a Defender cab chassis.. the rubber on the glass has perished and wondering whether I can fit defender rubber seals for the glass or whether I have to buy series specific.

[cal415]

Nice work! i didnt think you had planned to strip it that far down? you may as well take it right back to a bare chassis and decide if that one is worth salvaging or not, you will no doubt find more rust hidden in there somewhere..

[dullbird]

Nice work! i didnt think you had planned to strip it that far down? you may as well take it right back to a bare chassis and decide if that one is worth salvaging or not, you will no doubt find more rust hidden in there somewhere..


yes Cal we weren't going to strip it down that far:D however we decided that we wanted to paint the axles and the chassis and thought what the hell we only want to do this once :lol2:

So far the rust on the pic above (which was hidden by the foot of the tray) is the only rust we have found on the whole thing apart from the firewall footwell...which we knew about very early on.

So the rear of the cab is the last thing to come off if that doesn't have rust under it then i'm happy and the chassis will just get painted asap:)

[Landy Smurf]

good work dullbird getting stuck into it.have you cut out that bad rust in the chassis?it is pretty bad are you sure it hasnt travelled further up the chassis? anyway keep the work and photos rolling watching with great interest

[dullbird]

no haven't cut it yet....

everything else is as solid as when its knocked. the reason this section has rotted is because moisture has obviously been trapped between the chassis rail and the tray which we have taken off so it hasn't rotted from the inside out more the outside to in. if that makes sense.

from the Look of the rest of the chassis I would be truly shocked if the insides were rotten...the chassis appears to be in very good condition apart from that one spot which was hidden

[dullbird]

Ok so engine is out. The task was made very easy by the help of Andrew (Shonky) and Mark (Isuzutoo-eh) and of course Andrew's engine crane..thank you both once again for your help!!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/05/58.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/05/59.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/05/60.jpg

As we took out the engine we decided oh well still got a couple of hours to kill as the engine pull took less then 40mins so we decided to pull out the gearbox as well to make it easier to paint the whole chassis.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/05/61.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/05/62.jpg

even after pulling everything out it still appears that the only piece of rust we have is the piece documented further back in the thread....most of the chassis doesn't even have surface rust:)

Next thing on the to do list is, taking a wire brush to that firewall and see whether or not its a keeper...I have a feeling that rather then paying to fix a few things on this one we should be looking out for a second hand one in good condition.

[midal]

Weeellllll.......now that the engine and gearbox are out you might as well give them a good overhaul also. At least that way you know you will have a totally good vehicle that will last you for years without problems:p

I mean, if a jobs worth doing etc etc......and you are half way there now:p

[Landy Smurf]

the firewall looks alright,its always good to lift an engine out

[dullbird]

Weeellllll.......now that the engine and gearbox are out you might as well give them a good overhaul also. At least that way you know you will have a totally good vehicle that will last you for years without problems:p

I mean, if a jobs worth doing etc etc......and you are half way there now:p


errr no. the engine worked beautifully before we took it out if we go "fixing it up" it will probably never work right again:D.

the gearbox might get some bearings...:)

[Shonky]

...and since you have the chassis to that stage, you may as well take off the firewall too!

Thanks for the snags. :)

[dullbird]

ok so there is no rust behind that bog it was a purely cosmetic thing to cover up damage that is there....Toss!! now I have to put it all back in again :D

Look its snowing in my garage and because I was so keen to get this started I forgot to cover everything up!...........Doh!!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/06/1951.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/06/1952.jpg

God knows what caused this damage

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/06/1953.jpg

there is actually a large dent where my finger is pointing..its all pushed in.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/06/1954.jpg

so as you can see its all dented and stuff and it looks like the filler was purely put on as a body repair job not to hide anything sus



This is the other side where the crack was I have no idea why there was filler on this side because the amount on there was nothing mm if that. It was a minuscule amount
but you can now see the crack a little clearer.. so I guess this is a stress fracture or something. hopefully weld-able.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/06/1955.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/06/1956.jpg

So now I think the firewall is perhaps worth keeping.

Just need to get one of these

LAND ROVER SERIES 2 & 3 FOOTWELL REPAIR PANEL R/H (RHD) - eBay, Land Rover, Car Parts, Vehicle Parts Accessories. (end time 04-Jun-10 01:52:30 AEST) (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220600255409&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT)

and possibly one of these so I don't have to go bogging up that side again..I'm guessing just weld this in place to tidy things up a bit better

LAND ROVER DEFENDER & SERIES 2/3 BULKHEAD REPAIR LH - eBay, Land Rover, Car Parts, Vehicle Parts Accessories. (end time 24-Jun-10 03:16:09 AEST) (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370340014531&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT)

[Shonky]

Bit hard to tell from the pics, but it looks like someone has cut out some rust and welded in some plate, and then bogged over the top to hide their duck-**** welding! :p

[cal415]

Yeh thats what i was thinking, looks like someone has done some dodgy welds, the crack look like is actualy the weld thats cracked or atleast right next to it probobly from the weld pulling the metal. Whats the damage to the foot well that needs it replaced as well? i wouldnt bother replacing the panels, just do a repair on it and do as the last owner did and hide it with filler!

But its good to see you getting in there and getting dirty lou! i could never get my wife to work on the cars except for the interior.

[dullbird]

nah the footwell is shot think its had a brake fluid leak or something on it as lot of bubbled paint etc above it but the footwell def needs replacing massive holes though it and the metal is thin as....

ok so in that case perhaps I just need a foot well and will fill the hole pack up that I just taken all the fill out of and get it painted.....

[cal415]

do you have pics of the foot well damage? you might be able to get someone to just press up something and weld it in rather then ordering those bits from ebay, its only light gauge sheet,

[dullbird]

I will get some Mick I can't tonight though as I have to get something in the garage to clear up all the dust that I have managed to spread around...

not game enough to put the camera in there at the moment :D

[discowhite]

Bit hard to tell from the pics, but it looks like someone has cut out some rust and welded in some plate, and then bogged over the top to hide their duck-**** welding! :p

looks like oxy welds to me.
the whole thing can be fixed up, not too hard, but ide be looking for another one as a donor, that way bits from one can be cut out and used on the other.
oh, and depending on the type of filler rod used for the oxy welding, it can be hard to re weld with a mig, same as trying to mig weld over a stick weld and gassles mig welds.

cheers phil

[dullbird]

Does that mean its going to be hard to fix up that crack?

I was hoping to have a go at welding...I was watching some video's on You tube...could be very disastrous how ever I'm keen to give it ago

[discowhite]

i understand now after seeing what you uncovered with the wire buff, that its cracking because of all that mess. the whole thing is under stress.
more weld = more contraction.
you can probably weld it up but it would most likley crack again soon after.

not that ive had a really good look at it but the front end was in a smash at some stage, so do you think the damage to the fire wall was due to that or just rust?

cheers phil

[dullbird]

I think the damage done to the firewall on the passenger side was possibly done to the bang it had however the bog on the firewall has been like that for a great number of years now...

I can't remember how many years Gordon had the car in the family as it was owned by his father before being passed to him and informs me that the firewall has never been touched while in there possession and was when I got it exactly how they got it I think it might of been around 17/20years before.

[dullbird]

Not much done as I had to clean all the fairy dust out of the bloody garage created by the bog that I took back on the firewall :lol2:

So today I got the wire wheel out again and decided to attack the chassis. only got a little bit done on one side as the grinder is a killer on my hands with the vibration I can only hold it for about 5/10mins before my fingers have no feeling:D

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/06/1465.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/06/1466.jpg

I haven't taken it all the way back to metal just got the crap off the top (what looks like metal in this pic above is actually blank paint which I'm assuming is the original chassis paint)...I dont want to strip it all the way back as I don't want it to rust while waiting for me to paint it:D

I would like to have the chassis painted before I go back to the UK in 3 weeks time..however I dont know whether this is possible as it is quite cold here even during the day and I dont know if that is the best conditions to paint in, and allow the paint to go off

[cal415]

Looks like you have a bit of work for you there with rusty chassis rail. You should hit it with some cold gal before painting, its may not be a good as real gal but if it helps stop the rust then its all good in my book. With the bits i have painted, its best to do it when its warm, but still worked out ok in the colder months just took longer to dry.

[dullbird]

Looks like you have a bit of work for you there with rusty chassis rail. You should hit it with some cold gal before painting, its may not be a good as real gal but if it helps stop the rust then its all good in my book. With the bits i have painted, its best to do it when its warm, but still worked out ok in the colder months just took longer to dry.

The chassis rail is not rusted cal only the one section which I have already noted further up...is this what you mean (the bit in the second picture)?

there is hardly even surface rust on the chassis all the brown stuff you can see in the pics is dirt.:)

I think shonky and Isuzutoo will back me up on how clean the chassis is apart from that little section where the foot of the tray was sitting.

[korg20000bc]

I'm having a problem with the cold too. I want to get some painting done but the -5 to 12 degree days were having are putting the brakes on the restoration. I have a wire brush attachment for the grinder but the vibes are incredible. Makes it a rotten job.

Looks great, what you've been doing.

[dullbird]

I'm having a problem with the cold too. I want to get some painting done but the -5 to 12 degree days were having are putting the brakes on the restoration. I have a wire brush attachment for the grinder but the vibes are incredible. Makes it a rotten job.

Looks great, what you've been doing.


Thanks for the encouragement:)

yeah I'm hearing you about the brush attachment.. sometimes the tingling can go on for like 15mins after..I guess its because I'm not used to doing this sort of thing:)

[cal415]

well it looks like the rust is in the top of the chassis rail from those pics??

[dullbird]

well it looks like the rust is in the top of the chassis rail from those pics??

I don't know what to say really Mick.

Its almost like people want me to have a rusty car that is a big job:(.

I wish people would just take my bloody word for it.

one section of rust on the top rail that is about 8/9" long which will hopefully be cut out and replaced very soon. Then the whole chassis will get painted. no i'm not going to bother putting Cold gal on simply because it has survived 40 years and still has paint on the chassis and is not rusted, so I don't see why It wont survive another 40.

[isuzutoo-eh]

What she said!

It really is only the two short sections of rust, where the tray mounts trapped moisture on the top of the chassis. Its a simpler repair than if the rear crossmember was rotten, which it isn't.

You can get anti-vibration gloves (hardware store perhaps), or just do a little bit at a time :)

[dullbird]

Are the gloves really any good?

If they are I might get some.

Does anyone know the lowest temp you can really paint?

[isuzutoo-eh]

Haven't tried the gloves, but I can confirm that $1 Kmart gardening gloves make a negligable difference :D

[dullbird]

Haven't tried the gloves, but I can confirm that $1 Kmart gardening gloves make a negligable difference :D

I was wearing leather gloves when I was doing it, they are reasonably thick too....

[Redback]

Are the gloves really any good?

If they are I might get some.

Does anyone know the lowest temp you can really paint?

It's too cold for painting Lou, to get it to dry properly, it needs to be over 20C, but 25C is better for at least 24hrs minimum drying time, if you can set up a temporary spray booth with heating then maybe yes.

Baz.

[dullbird]

Well I hope your impressed that I can still work on my project when I'm not even in the country:D

I have a firewall on the way up from VIC thanks to a member on here. I have bought a full set of lights (set of 8) brand new in uk for £20 even though I have LEDs for the rear I also have full set of gaiters for hand brake and gear lever etc and I also have new red and yellow nobs to go on:)

There is a small patch repair needed on the new firewall the small patch on the chassis a little bit if tlc on the doors and then paint when the weather warms up... Oh and I need to get a radiator if we can't get the one we have fixed up

[dullbird]

So a bit of an update..not a great deal has been done. We do now have the big shed which means a fair bit has been moved out of the garage giving me room too work.

Ian cut out the only section of rust on the chassis

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/11/1465.jpg

and patched it with a piece of metal...No don't laugh we know its crude but Ian doesn't have any experience with welding so he is learning as he goes along..it certainly doesn't look pretty but it feels very strong so as long as it holds the foot of that tray thats all thhat matter:)

This is it patched

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/11/1466.jpg

The chassis has been rubbed back and rust converter applied mainly to the areas which are difficult to get the grinder into and as you can see its completely bare no firewall or anything on it

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/11/1467.jpg

So hopefully next weekend the chassis will be degreased and then painted along with axles springs and all the other pieces that have been rubbed back and are just waiting for paint.

Today I thought I would also degrease the engine and the gearbox

The engine before being washed

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/11/1468.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/11/1469.jpg

and after as you can see the engine is actually quite colourful

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/12/917.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/11/1470.jpg

Its getting cleaned as I want to throw some paint on this as well...I wanted to paint it with everything in-situ, however I don't know whether that is possible..of course it wouldn't be a great job but was only looking to tidy it up.

I then cleaned the gearbox I was actually very pleased with the way this came up.

before a good degreasing

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/11/1471.jpg

and after :cool: almost looks like new :p

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/11/1472.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/11/1473.jpg

So thats it for the moment, hopefully next weekend I can update with painted pics:)

[The ho har's]

looking good there DB:D

Mrs hh:angel:

[dullbird]

I'm really just itching to get it done now..so hopefully it will be full steam ahead.

[dullbird]

Another productive day...

We got the Chassis out of the garage as we have only been able to rub back the top part of the chassis due to it being on axle stands.

it not easy getting a chassis out of the shed with a midget and a tall bird that has a buggered back:D

anyway kept it on its side so we could rub back the underneath. concerned about keeping it there we tied it off to the Toyota (sacrificial lamb :D) so it tilted slightly towards us and then put another strap in the opposite direction with less tension tied off to the series tray just in case a gust of wind blew form the other direction sending it over.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/11/979.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/11/980.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/11/981.jpg

Then we got to work with the grinders and the wire wheels.

Once that was finished I gave the entire chassis a good degreasing and jet wash.

As I cleaned up Ian found a crack on one of the cross members

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/11/982.jpg

Ian ground it back and put a bit of weld on top..:) (I definitely think the welding is getting better)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/11/983.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/11/984.jpg

I then hit the Chassis with some rust converter in the areas that were to tricky to get to, and finally I got to work with the painting.

The chassis is laying with its underside facing upwards

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/11/985.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/11/986.jpg


I have placed 4 coats on it with a 4:1 mix however tomorrow I will flip it over and give the top side a few coats and then top up all the other coats I did today.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/11/987.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/11/988.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/11/989.jpg

[dullbird]

OK Chassis flipped over and painted on the other side...Some more bits had some paint thrown over them as well....Paint didn't go on to well today I think its to do with the heat...its so hot I'm sure the paint was startin to go off before it was put on.

Oh well the main thing is its done and we can et it back in the garage and get some bits back on now:)

All sat out ready to be painted..you know its not easy moving an axle on your own :(

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/11/954.jpg

after painting

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/11/955.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/11/956.jpg

and the chassis all done

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/11/957.jpg

[dullbird]

So painted the engine today...

Had a couple of epic fails..:( Firstly I had the wrong colour paint. I was after a darkish grey paint close to cast iron...we did pick up aluminum in colour however the colour swatch on the can was what I was after...and low and behold was nothing like it..came out much lighter:(.

The second fail, after I painted the engine with the high temp paint I discovered that I'm supposed to bake it at 200 Degrees for the paint to cure. woooopsie!! my engine will not fit in the oven.


So I'm hoping that one the paint will dry enough that we don't lose half of it putting the engine back in to the chassis, so we can cure it hopefully by running the engine once the time comes.

Anyway dont laugh at my what now looks like a V8 block:o..:)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/11/596.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/11/597.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/11/598.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/11/599.jpg

[dullbird]

So today I did chores around the house


First of all I did the washing. Dont tell Ian :angel:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/12/1611.jpg


And after that I did some baking :angel: :angel:


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/12/1612.jpg

they came out OK and I'm actually pleased I painted the engine the colour I did now as this was the colour I meant to paint it and I think it would of just been too dark

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/12/1613.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/12/1614.jpg

So the only thing left to paint for this engine is the fan and then all the bits can go back on:)

[isuzutoo-eh]

Good progress going on there! I must say, those dishdrawer dish washers wash Series engine parts very nicely, not that I would know :angel:
I quite like the colour of your manifolds. The exhaust may not stay that colour for long though :p

[dullbird]

The exhaust will be done in the ali colour... I dont hink exhausts and cast iron colour will really gel although its noot gunna matter once it gets dirty with mud and soot:D

[isuzutoo-eh]

To be honest I wouldn't bother painting the exhaust manifold as they always seem to end up an even bright rust not long into being used (unless stainless steel). Well thats my observation anyway :D

[dullbird]

doesn't matter its done now..and I didn't want to put ugly rusty manifolds on a newly painted engine. It wouldn't look right :)

[isuzutoo-eh]

Hmm thats true, its going to be so shiny and fresh and you'll be so proud you'll take the puma to collect firewood rather than Little Miss :D


She'll look really classy with a timber sided tray...hint hint

[dullbird]

Hmm thats true, its going to be so shiny and fresh and you'll be so proud you'll take the puma to collect firewood rather than Little Miss :D


She'll look really classy with a timber sided tray...hint hint

nope its not going to be timber it will stay metal like it was originally..
Besides I really dont want to have to spend money that I don't really need to, remember this car start only has "just going to give it a tidy up" and look what happened!!!! I got excited.:D

[El Duderino]

Absolutely loving your rebuild DB!!! :D

You've answered a lot of my own questions regarding doing such a rebuild on a Series, n good on you for having a crack at it and doing so well! :) I've done a few bare-chassis rebuilds on Jags, MG's n TR5's a few years back at work...plenty of stubborn bolts, surprise rust, skunned knuckles, random electrics, unforeseen dramas, et-al. Hehehe! Take heart for your troubles though, because the first look and drive of the beast when it's finished, is simply mind-blowing and satisfying. :D

While you're at this stage, I would suggest giving the Series a bit of an engine rebuild. It may not need it right now, but if you've gone to the effort of bare-chassis... Removing question-marks is what it's about, and you've done that already with the rust and structural integrity, so why not the engine?

Here's some inspiration to consider and hopefully motivate...a fully rebuilt (well this pic was mid-progress!) Jag 4.2lt engine that I did for a customer. Purred like kitten n will last an eternity. :cool:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/12/1097.jpg

[dullbird]

Hey mate..I cant entertain an engine rebuild at this point for both money and space I want to get the bloody thing out of the garage:D.
My house and the need to move/build/adjust things is becoming a far more pressing issue. I dont want to get this project to a point where it becomes to much and starts to gather dust

the engine was running really sweet before the thing was pulled apart so hoping it will have a few more years left in it yet.

and if I get it all back together and it does something nasty at least it will just be a park it up and rip out the engine rather then waiting for it to be rebuilt before all goes back in or on.

Thanks for the encouragement :)

I have just had a gasket set arrive in the post today so parts can start going back on
and I have just done an order through paddocks for a few goodies..and I believe bushes are waiting at the post office so will be full steam head

[dullbird]

So we have started to put some of the bushes in the chassis thanks to Wozapinin for selling me a bush kit. I'm just waiting on two packets that hopefully come in on Monday, so we can finish putting the bushes in the shackles. Once this is done and the spring and shackle bolts arrive, it will be full steam ahead as we are only waiting on those pieces to put the axles and springs back on to the chassis.:)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/12/915.jpg

and some of the bits have now gone back on the engine although the carbi and the dizzy are still yet to be put on. I also polished up the top as I liked the look on ezyrama's operation Smeg rebuild. So here are a couple of pics to remind you what it was like and what it ended up like:)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/12/916.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/12/917.jpg

and what it looks like now...and I would be lying if I didn't say I was pleased with the way it looks now even if I did stress about it being the wrong paint inn the beginning.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/12/918.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/12/919.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/12/920.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/12/921.jpg

[dullbird]

So I have had some doors from another series was hoping to use them but the frames were gone and not just the frames on closer inspection there was also a lot of rot in the window channels too:(

The door from my car

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/12/744.jpg

This is the door I wanted to use

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/12/745.jpg

here is a picture of the bottom of the frame (this was from a UK import can you tell:D).

This was just hitting the corner once...the door rattle every time I moved it:o

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/12/746.jpg

So I figured well Maybe I will use the good skin and place it on the good frame:). I have never done anything like this before so I went searching the forum and the net on how to skin a door.
It came up with ZERO results:(.
I contacted two members of the forum who might have the answers for me and they came to the party:).

So I thought, what have I got to lose? lets have a crack! I also thought I would take some pics for anyone else that has thought about doing this, but perhaps feel a little unsure. I thought it was quite a daunting task until I did it.

First of all I removed the window frame by undoing the two bolts on either side of the frame.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/12/747.jpg

This reveals the galvanised capping strip which is riveted on to the top of the door frame

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/12/748.jpg

I removed all these pop rivets by using a drill with a suitable sized bit. Just drill the head (in the center) until the head snaps off.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/12/749.jpg

Do this until all rivets on the strip are off and the gal strip can be removed (it just pulls off fairly easily)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/12/750.jpg

When you lay the door down on a flat surface you will note that there are also pop rivets on the front of the door skin (which were previously hidden by the gal strip).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/12/751.jpg

repeat the same process until all pop rivets are out.
Once out I started to work the edges with a large straight blade screw driver. Note: use a long screwdriver so you have some leverage.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/12/752.jpg

work you way around doing a couple of passes until you have the ali tabs lifted pretty much vertically. doing it slowly and evenly remember ali stretches fairly easily so care and patience is needed.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/12/753.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/12/754.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/12/755.jpg

It was at this stage that I realised that I couldn't use this skin as along the bottom edge where the bottom of the fram had rotted out the aluminum had become very brittle, and as I was bending it out it was cracking and crumbling. (but I thought for the sake of a tutorial I will carry on.:)
In this pic you can see all the corrosion after I have folded up the lip.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/12/756.jpg

Next I flipped the door back over and took the rivets out from around the door handle opening. Some people might choose to do them all in one go rather then leaving these till later.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/12/757.jpg

These rivets are mushroom heads rather than the much easier pop rivets so I center punched all 4 rivets to create a small dent in the heads

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/12/758.jpg

I then drilled all the rivet heads with a drill bit which is a similar size to the tail placing the drill bit in the dent made by the punch to keep the big as central as possible. start off slow as you dont want to find yourself flying off the head and damaging the skin.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/12/759.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/12/760.jpg

Once all edges are lifted and rivets are out I started to work the screw driver around the frame between the frame and the skin..take care doing this and try to gently easy the two apart.
I could do this on most of the frame but there were areas that were still well stuck with silicone. in these areas I used a hacksaw blade, cutting away at the silicone that bonded the frame to the skin.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/12/761.jpg

carefully easing the skin away the two can then be parted.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/12/762.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/12/763.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/12/764.jpg

Jobs a gooden;).

Now as I'm not using the skins I can't show you putting it back on but as far as I'm aware its the same procedure in reverse. just remember to use a good bonding agent betweeen the frame and skin and if possible get your frames galvanised to prevent having to do this job again:).

Now as I cant use these skins I have been really really toying with the idea of having a go at making my own:eek:...I reckon I could do it I'm not sure how but I do love a challenge. What yeah reckon????:p

[isuzutoo-eh]

This should be the perfect moment to point you towards The Good Oil :D

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/good-oil/63800-door-skin-removal.html

Shonkster had a go at it, photos and more details in his Gus thread. But now you've done it, the mods can add your experience to The Good Oil too :)

[dullbird]

how ironic that, that never came up in a forum search
now I feel like an idiot when I thought I was doing a good thing :(

[isuzutoo-eh]

how ironic that, that never came up in a forum search
now I feel like an idiot when I thought I was doing a good thing :(

But you did a good job! You went in to more detail too.

Looking forward to seeing the skin-making tutorial :)


I didn't mean to spoil christmas

[dullbird]

oooooo the goodies have arrived :)

Just need the bushes to come into stock and the bolts to turn up..

Its Christmas 4 days early:D

[dullbird]

So the bolts that I got were wrong well at least 4 of them are :( but thanks to Lotz_A_landies for giving me some shackles to fit my 9/16" bolts I made a start, as I managed to get the last bushes i needed yesterday.

SO first I put the front springs on just at the back first.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/12/531.jpg

Ian then helped me carry the axle over as even thought I managed to carry it around on my own to paint it there was no way I could maneuver it on my own to get it in between the chassis and the springs.:eek:

Once we did that I put the U bolts and retaining plates on to pin the axle in place.. That also was a bit of a tricky job on my own as you have to squeeze the U bolt to get it in the hole, while holding up the plate and putting on the nut..hahaha :D

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/12/532.jpg



https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/12/533.jpg

[numpty]

Nice work Lou and looking good.

Just a little thing, you should find it easier to hang the spring on the front/fixed shackle first and then lift it up to connect to the rear/swinging shackle.

[dullbird]

Nice work Lou and looking good.

Just a little thing, you should find it easier to hang the spring on the front/fixed shackle first and then lift it up to connect to the rear/swinging shackle.


Thanks Numpty but you know us women we do like to do things arse about face:D

[dullbird]

haven't been able to do much really so today I thought I would take the exhaust outside and give it a go with the sand paper.

this is after giving it a good going over

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/01/1152.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/01/1153.jpg

Then I took to it with the exhaust paint to freshen it up a bit think it came up OK:)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/01/1154.jpg

I also took the black paint to the under side of the fender...before trying a bit of paint stripper on the top. well seemed like a little bit to much like hard work to me and also revealed there was a bit of bog on the top of the wings I got to replace my bashed up ones...

So I have decided I will just sand back and through some primer on all the bits I want painted and then paint them rather than stripping them all back.

[dullbird]

So thought we would have a blitz at the series today as we were both off...no such luck although we did get a couple of things done.

firstly we have now added the rear springs as I finally got hold of a full shackle set thanks to Vixen.

As you can see Eddie was helping also

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/01/168.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/01/169.jpg

Now I don't know if this is right as it doesn't actually show it on the schematics but we nut and bolted both the shackle bolts on the rear where as none are bolted on the shackles at the front.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/01/170.jpg

After putting the springs on I walked over to the axle to get ready to put it in and instantly noticed a small problem.

Can you spot the difference?

passenger side of axle

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/01/171.jpg

and drivers side :(

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/01/172.jpg

Oh well I said to Ian perhaps we should take it to someone to fill it in with a weld and re-drill but Ian said he would like to have ago...so I was like OK honey go your best!!

So we cleaned up the hole

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/01/173.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/01/174.jpg

and on the underside too...as well as with a file in the actual hole

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/01/175.jpg

Then Ian took to it with the welder

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/01/176.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/01/177.jpg

after offering up the shock spacer used with the bushes

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/01/178.jpg

...Ian took to the hole with an air drill and an uzziemegidget :D

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/01/179.jpg

until the proud part of the spacer sat nice and neatly in the hole.

the underside also had a dab of weld put on and ground back so it was nice and flat and then a quick splash of kill rust on it and bobs your uncle:)

Fixed:)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/01/180.jpg

I was quite pleased with the way Ian fixed this up as he has only just started welding let alone filling in holes..it may not be as perfect as some others may do it but we were limited in tools also. originally Ian said he was going to put a plate on it but I thought it would of been better to do it this way.

So lastly I washed heaps of parts in the washer. Including the front brake backing plates (this is them before the wash)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/01/181.jpg

Ready for me to Paint them tomorrow :)

and then we can start re-assembling the front axle...ready to get some wheels on it

Oh and I bought some custom badges too:angel: curious to know how they turn out, they are on there way from the Uk :)

[dullbird]

Diffs are now back in and there is a backing plate sat at each corner ready to start putting all the brake stuff back on.

Ian also has just taken delivery of a new fancy pants flaring kit so we can make the brake lines up for the series does anyone know where we can source the copper pipe from? As we believe this is what we should really use...would help to know what Dia as well and any other helpful info

[LandyAndy]

Rebuild is looking good.
Copper brake lines are no longer used,and havent been for a long time in Australia.Any brake parts supplier will be able to supply the steel type,comes in a roll.
Buy a bending tool,they are cheap and will enable you to copy the factory shape without damaging the tube.
Andrew

[Bundalene]

Hi Lou, great build. We are following with interest.

BTW, never use copper for brake lines, they won't handle the pressure, always use steel.


As for buying the line, have you tried ringing around a few exhaust / brake joints?



Erich

[dullbird]

Oh Ok Ian said he was told copper as it doesn't corrode I will let Ian know

Thanks for the tip haven't tried anyone yet as Ian was pondering where he was going to get the copper from..looks like it might be easier to do after all:)

i'm glad your following the thread Erich its could to have someone with your experience lurking in this thread:)

[Blknight.aus]

just a small handfull of points.

first up good work so far.

the normal way for repairing the elongated shock hole is to weld a heavy washer to the underside of the existing hole and then filling in from the top prior to grinding it back. theres not a lot of difference between what you've done and the washer way, the washer ways just a bit faster and easier.

on the spring hangers the one side of the hanger should be threaded and there should be enough thread left over to take a nut. Theres no need to use nylocs on them as ther locking mechanism for them is the good old double nutting technique. you'll probably find that unless you order special short profile nylocs that the nyloc will not engage correctly.

you can get thick wall copper piping for doing brake lines with however its prone to corroding via electrolysis and fatigue fractures. The steel stuff is stronger and lasts longer and once made to shape responds well to hitting with phosphoric acid and then hitting it with undercoat and a nice hard enamel paint.

If you need it Ive got the appropraite benders and flarers for normal brake line. to get the size line you need just take a flare fitting with you and size it up in the shop, most brake places will help you out.

[dullbird]

just a small handfull of points.

first up good work so far.

the normal way for repairing the elongated shock hole is to weld a heavy washer to the underside of the existing hole and then filling in from the top prior to grinding it back. theres not a lot of difference between what you've done and the washer way, the washer ways just a bit faster and easier.


on the spring hangers the one side of the hanger should be threaded and there should be enough thread left over to take a nut. Theres no need to use nylocs on them as ther locking mechanism for them is the good old double nutting technique. you'll probably find that unless you order special short profile nylocs that the nyloc will not engage correctly.

you can get thick wall copper piping for doing brake lines with however its prone to corroding via electrolysis and fatigue fractures. The steel stuff is stronger and lasts longer and once made to shape responds well to hitting with phosphoric acid and then hitting it with undercoat and a nice hard enamel paint.

If you need it Ive got the appropraite benders and flarers for normal brake line. to get the size line you need just take a flare fitting with you and size it up in the shop, most brake places will help you out.

It is threaded on one shackle plate the nyloc came with the bolt kit...
I would be surprised if they don't engage properly as we still have a few threads left and the nuts have not been tightened up yet.
I guess I will see once we tighten them up but the diagram for the suspension set up only shows one nut.

Ian has just bought a flare kit so he can do the job we just need to buy the bender and the pipe

[Blknight.aus]

It is threaded on one shackle plate the nyloc came with the bolt kit...
I would be surprised if they don't engage properly as we still have a few threads left and the nuts have not been tightened up yet.
I guess I will see once we tighten them up but the diagram for the suspension set up only shows one nut.

Ian has just bought a flare kit so he can do the job we just need to buy the bender and the pipe

on the double nutting the plate is the first nut and the second nut winds up tight onto the plate without a washer. Previously Ive found that the bolt only penetrates about a turn into the nyloc.

[dullbird]

Ok thanks will see how it goes if it doesn't tighten up enough will swap out for a normal nut :)

[dullbird]

A little bit more progress not as much as I would of liked but that's what happens when life gets in the way :(

So front axles now in we had a few dramas getting the axles in to the diff when diff was fitted however the axles went in quite easily without it. rightly or wrongly the axles were put in with a bit of force as it appear that was the only way we could get them in......everything still turns ok so we can only hope that that is OK. I guess once we get the thing in a movable status we can address this later should something be wrong. Before anyone says the diff is damaged this happened on both diffs we tried and one diff we def know was working when we took it out of the other car.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/03/1185.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/03/1186.jpg

rear axles in, new brakes shoes + Cylinders, new drums new wheel bearings, new shocks all fitted and wheels on.

Dont look to hard at these wheels they are off a shorty but they will not be staying on the car they are only fitted in the short term while I get the 109 wheels prepped and painted to go on. This at least will help us winch it in and out of garage should we need to.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/03/1187.jpg

everything in place on the rear axle....Nothing has been tightened up yet as it appears the shocks and springs could do with a bit of weight on them first :)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/03/1188.jpg

We may not of gotten far but at least it is slowly starting to resemble a car again.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/03/1189.jpg


that's it for now the engine is waiting to go back in as is the gearbox however I might take some video of the gearbox for opinions as the the shaft that sticks out in the bell housing (output shaft???? is that what it is called) one appears to have more movement then the other (I have two gearboxes) although it has been suggested they should have movement, so figured it might be best to video and show the movement to get peoples thoughts

[dullbird]

Ok today was the day the engine is going back in

Just taking the tension up on the chains...I can tell you I was pretty nervous as only have one lifting point on the engine so we had to improvise using the engine mounts and other solid type attachments on the engine:D

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/03/874.jpg

Ian taking the bolts out from the engine stand

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/03/875.jpg

engine lifted to height and ready to maneuver in

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/03/876.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/03/877.jpg

and finally Ian pushed it in to place while I gently lowered it down :)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/03/878.jpg

and a pic of Ian just placing the flange bolts in as I took out the old bearings and replaced with new wheel bearings put everything on to the axle but my back would no longer tolerate me sitting on the floor for that long so Ian just had to put the bolts in for me...
That's the first time for me changing bearings so was a very good learning experience.:)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/03/879.jpg

unfortunately I couldn't do the other corner as the hub is missing a wheel stud so need to replace that before putting that on. :(

Next set is to sort out the gearbox and putting that in. I will get the firewall down from the other shed so we can make the small repair and then I can get on and paint it ready to go on

[Blknight.aus]

you can put the hub on, you can insert and seat the studs in situe..

wheel off, drum off and depending on how good you are with your fingers shoes off and then you can get enough access to change them over.

to seat them using a piece of 30*5mm bar with a suitable hole (stud dia+.5mm) drilled in it wind the adjacent studs nut on backwards (taper out). Place the stud into the hole, the bar over the stud you're replacing and put its nut on backwards. with the bar providing torque reaction on the hub do up the nut till the stud seats completely at the back + about 1/6th of a turn.

remove the backwards nuts and the bar and reassemble everything else.

In a pinch a meter bar or tyre lever up against 2 studs with the nuts wound on to protect the threads will do the job.

If you have the small double taper nuts its a good idea to counter sink the hole on the bar and grease the taper (dont get any on the stud splines)

[dullbird]

Cool thanks Dave just read it out loud to Ian and he said yes I know what he is talking about so in that case might but the other one on tomorrow :)

[dullbird]

Well Ian got the quote for me today to have the seats reupholstered at the department of interior.......$1600 they quoted him....:o:eek:

Apparently the seat cushion have latex or something in them and they often tear needing the cushion replaced..
He also said its 10hours worth of work

Sounds like bull**** to me.

So I think I will be doing them myself.

I only wanted all three seats to have some new vinyl put on to the already reasonable cushions,:(.

[Blknight.aus]

some of the seats have a latex type spray adhesive on the underside of the material to make the material stick to the cushioning. These are the seats that almost never tear but feel a little "stiff". Removing the materail usually destroys the top inch or so of the cushion foam so you have to get that remade.

the last set I did cost me $400 for the 3 bases and backs. But I dropped them in as a no rush item and waited 2 weeks for the come pick them up phone call.

[dullbird]

is it not possible to stick a blade in and cut the material from the base rather then pulling it?

The Ironic thing Dave is it only costs 600bux for brand spankers from exmoor trim which is what makes me laugh about the 1600 dollars

[andrew e]

is it not possible to stick a blade in and cut the material from the base rather then pulling it?

The Ironic thing Dave is it only costs 600bux for brand spankers from exmoor trim which is what makes me laugh about the 1600 dollars

Hey lou, i know a good local trimmer if you need one. He did a nice job on pauls p38 seat after the srs bag went 'poof'. Good on $$ too, but being a non landrover bloke, it may not be as concourse as exmor.

Andy

[dullbird]

not after concourse Andrew just after someone doing what I want at a reasonable cost....

I did have a mate that said she would have a go just got to find a shop that will sell vinyl/leatherette so I can get the Land Rover embroidered in before fitting it to the seat

Where is your bloke? close enough to get the seats to him for a quote?

[Shonky]

You could sew Land Rover patches as sold by the LROCS onto the seats, but embroidering would look cool too. :D

If you aren't after concourse, why not buy a sewing machine and do them yourself? They aren't particularly complicated!

[dullbird]

You could sew Land Rover patches as sold by the LROCS onto the seats, but embroidering would look cool too. :D

If you aren't after concourse, why not buy a sewing machine and do them yourself? They aren't particularly complicated!


Nah not interested in getting a sewing machine that's why I have asked a mate if she can do it....as for the patches :no2:.

The plan is to have a dark tan coloured seat with embroidery and stitching done in a light tan...
I'm not after concourse but I'm after them looking neat and tidy:)

something like this

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/03/142.jpg

[Blknight.aus]

lady across the road from me does embroidry. I also have some spare seats that need reworking. If you like I can ask her about a cost to get that done and send you the seats 1:1+costs if you like.

[dullbird]

lady across the road from me does embroidry. I also have some spare seats that need reworking. If you like I can ask her about a cost to get that done and send you the seats 1:1+costs if you like.

Thanks dave I might chase the costs down here first as I have some seats that are in reasonably good nic.

[Blknight.aus]

can you do a rough size up on how big you want the logo and I'll ask anyway on an embriodery costing since I've got to go to (say that fast drunk several times) a workwear shop that does it and they have the landrover logo on file I'll ask them and the neighbour for you.

[dullbird]

Ok will look at it tomorrow.

[dullbird]

Ian changed the rear main seal today.....just the gearbox to do and will put it back in. bonnet, front grill and doors now laying on floor in garage ready to start roughing up for paint:)

[dullbird]

So I came home from work today and the new clutch has gone in and the gearbox is also in.....

I will take some photo's tomorrow if I get home before dark, God only knows how he got it in on his own????? but anyway:D

[Scouse]

God only knows how he got it in on his own????? but anyway:DHe probably knew the consequences if he didn't get it fitted !!

[isuzutoo-eh]

Ian brought a girl home from work. Yes.
She lured him in with "Let us go back to yours and get dirty".
Ian's eyes lit up as he handed her some worn leather gloves. "Put these on" he said, as he gripped the spud shaft enthusiastically.
Out came the chains, on went the shackles, up up up it went.
Together they struggled and sweated, wrestled and contorted, till it was all the way in, aligned and sure.
"Pump it, use your foot" he said, as he tweaked a nipple.
"Oh, it feels so firm"
"Thats it, just a little more"
...
Yes, that is how Little Miss Adventure came to have her gearbox fitted and clutch bled.
:wasntme:

Also, Triple J interviewed an erotic literature author on the radio this morning.

[dullbird]

That was funny however I wasn't home so who is he having an affair with?:wasntme:

[dmdigital]

Found an image of little miss adventure.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/05/229.jpg

[dullbird]

almost same as original colour :D

[isuzutoo-eh]

That was funny however I wasn't home so who is he having an affair with?:wasntme:

My research wasn't that extensive...maybe it was one of those chicks from next door...oh wait, they are all clucky hens

[dullbird]

Well I'm pleased I can finally announce that the series is now back to a rolling chassis stage:clap2:

I have taken a couple of pics to show the gearbox in, all wheels on. the exhaust in although still need a couple of brackets. The track rod etc are on too.

The first picture is to show nothing supporting the chassis other than the wheels now yes the tyres are a little hows yeah father but only on there for building have another set in the shed that I have to get the wheels painted first:)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/05/153.jpg

my lovely shinny exhaust

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/05/154.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/05/155.jpg

The gearbox now attached to the engine with new clutch etc.

Sorry I know its hard to see because of all the clutter in the garage.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/05/156.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/05/157.jpg

the rear shocks (new) and springs

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/05/158.jpg

Front shocks (new) and springs

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/05/159.jpg

as you can see by this pic it had new brake cylinders but also had new drums and shoes as well as springs. oh and new track rod ends etc you will also notice in these pics

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/05/160.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/05/161.jpg

So all in all quite happy with the way things are going..

Next thing on the list I'm just about to buy some redkote so we can treat the inside of the fuel tank then that will get a coat of paint ready to go in.

The next plan is to mend a small hole on the bulk head that I bought off another member and rough that up ready along with the radiator support..then we will be able to fit the new radiator that is sat waiting in the garageand will be getting closer to see if we can get it back to running stage before starting on all the body work:)

[dullbird]

Wow its quite sad the the last update is over 2 years ago and there is not much to show for it. :(

Unfortunately life has taken over, fencing, animals, driveways all sorts of expensive things have taken over priority. Ian is however doing bits and bobs when he can.

the exhaust now has its rear bracket sorted the brake lines have all been bent up and are now in place and connected. the fuel tank was redkoted and put in place.

The bulkhead had to have a bit more work done to it once we got to it possibly because we had left it for so long packed up I think moisture must of gotten in to it as a few holes had become apparent not just the one that the member had already made us aware of. so they were all sorted and the bulkhea painted.

the mudguards/fenders/wings what ever you want to call them have also been patched up and rubbed down they are awaiting paint as is the radiator support .

Ian put the bulkhead on the other day an the rear of the cab so he could line up the doors but now we can find the bloody hinges :( we have found the repair kit for them but not the hinges themselves

So with the pictures it doesn't look like much is done but stuff has been done just not really a lot for a 2year period. Oh we have the metal to replace the floor on the tray also once that is welded in we will rub that back ready for paint also.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1356.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1357.jpg

closer look at the bulkhead and you can see the tank is in, in this pic also :)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1358.jpg

[Homestar]

Any updates Lou?;)

[dullbird]

You ****!! :D



Yes it's taken us a year to get the steering wheel on it appears hahahahaha :lol2:

[Homestar]

What language!!!:D. Very un-lady like...:D

[dullbird]

good job there isn't going to be any ladies reading this then hey :D

[dullbird]

Thought I would put up a couple of photos just to show we are still working on the series all be it very slowly hahahhah :D

Steering wheel is on.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/467.jpg

As you can see the back part ofthe cab has been cleaned up and painted...the wings have also been painted they are sat in front of the car in this photo

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/468.jpg

and work has begun on the tray with putting a floor back on it, it was quite a mammoth effort getting the buggered floor up as everything was welded it was a pretty well made tray that's for sure its a shame the rust got to it.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/469.jpg

[Scouse]

Great work, I'm looking forward to next years photos & seeing it at the Expo.

[dullbird]

Great work,
I'm looking forward to next years photos & seeing it at the Expo.

Easy!!! you can't rush these things:eek::wasntme:

[Homestar]

Great to see it up in the shed Lou, and having more work done to it. Looking forward to regular updates. :)

[THE BOOGER]

Great work, I'm looking forward to next years photos & seeing it at the Expo.

Expo is easy I have a car trailer little miss adventure doesn't need to drive anywhere be a good example of a project on the go:D

[Scouse]

a good example of a project on the go:DOn the go? I think we need to organise an AULRO working bee!

[dullbird]

he has worked on that series tray for the last couple of weeks...I will have you know:p

perhaps if he never met you at the pie shop so much to talk about your concrete the project would be finished by now :D:wasntme::p

[THE BOOGER]

Working Bee!! I recon BBQ lunch at Lou,s we look at the fencing and BBQ dinner your place to look at the concrete and discuss what needs to worked on:angel:

[dullbird]

Been tinkering today Ian worked on the tray again and I did some tidy up

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/313.jpg

Today I rubbed back the front thingy hahahahah that holds the lights and put some primer on once we get this painted we can get the nice new radiator that's been sat around new in it's box for 3 years on :D

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/314.jpg

Also we went to put on the doors so we could line up the rear bulkhead ready to tighen up the bolts only to find that we are missing one of the captive nuts on the passenger side in the firewall. So frustrating so have to order some of them now before we can continue on that part.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/315.jpg

Also found the gearbox to be leaking so need to go look at that too.

[dmdigital]

Also found the gearbox to be leaking so need to go look at that too.
I thought was standard from factory:confused:

:wasntme:

[Scouse]

Also we went to put on the doors so we could line up the rear bulkhead ready to tighen up the bolts only to find that we are missing one of the captive nuts on the passenger side in the firewall. So frustrating so have to order some of them now before we can continue on that part.



You need to get yourself a few spare cars about the place; they come in very handy for this sort of stuff.

[dullbird]

We still have the old firewall so ian was wondering whether to cut the captives out of that one. But as the firewall is still in the realms of being easily fixed someone might benefit from it so was reluctant to cut it up

[dullbird]

Hahaha time for the tiny yearly update. [emoji1]

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So as you can see we have been keeping up the progress of the worlds slowest restoration hahahah

But at least now it sort of resembles a car!!!

The tray has had a new metal floor put in which was actually done twice as Ian didn't like what he did the first time so cut it out and did it again.

The quarter windows are now in as is the back of the cab. The radiator holder is also in place.

Tomorrow (possibly as tomorrow often turns in to next year[emoji6] ) we might look at putting the hurc liner down in the tray, which we got just to add a little bit of durability and a touch of modern. For those that don't know it is like a rhino liner just cheaper. :)

We also chose grey coloured liner as the black is not UV stable and we also thought it might be a bit more subtle than the harsh black with the cream.

[dullbird]

Hurc liner done to the tray [emoji4][emoji106]

[Homestar]

Pics? :)

[dullbird]

Yep will see if I can get some tomorrow. Shed smells like a nuclear fall out. So im not sure if I go in there I wont come out with a second head [emoji16]

[Homestar]

How's not the time to make a Tasmainian joke then...? :D

[dullbird]

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This is the liner. So far although not fully cured yet seems very tough and the rough surface is going to be very grippy

Obviously the tray sides are still yet to go on

[Homestar]

Your choice of colour was a good one - that looks great. :)

[Landy Smurf]

I have not seen that type of tray lining before, looks good :thumbsup:

[dullbird]

About $300 to buy a tin of that liner to do the tray....much better than the $1000+ i was once quoted for rhino liner.