series 2a door hinges

[dullbird]

Looking for door hinges for both passenger and drivers side for my series 2a must be in good condition with no play. Do I need to replace them or is there something else that can be done?

[d@rk51d3]

Wouldn't a new ball & pin kit sort out the slack?

[dullbird]

not sure looked at those kits but looking at the hinges I dont see how they fit...I.e I cant see anything like it on the original hinges.

Unless the ball and pin is a modification to improve

does that make sense?

[dullbird]

does anyone have a pic of there hinges with the ball and pin kit on so I can see what it looks like? or does it not look any different.

[d@rk51d3]

It's standard for the 2-2a hinges.

The hinge half on the fire wall has a "well" that the ball sits in. The hinge half on the door has a well the sits over the ball, with the ball forming the pivot point.

When the pin wears the hole out of round (and the pin probably wears too), you'll get a bit of slop in the doors.

There are also springs in the 2 hinge halves too, where the pin goes through.

http://i338.photobucket.com/albums/n422/r33c1eb0y/Hingeball1.jpg

http://i338.photobucket.com/albums/n422/r33c1eb0y/Hingeball2.jpg

Sorry about the blurry night time photography. :angel:

If you need better pics, I can bring a hinge set inside and take them again.

[d@rk51d3]

Here you go:

Top and bottom hinge (not a matching pair - but we'll use them for arguments sake............. it was dark and scary outside, and the shed has no lights:eek::() along with ball, pin, nut, washer and 1 of 2 springs (the other is jammed inside the hinge - just pretend it's out on the table.):angel:

http://i338.photobucket.com/albums/n422/r33c1eb0y/hinge1.jpg

......ball goes into cup, and mates to other cup on other hinge.

http://i338.photobucket.com/albums/n422/r33c1eb0y/hinge2.jpg

Spring is inserted into each hinge, 1 top, 1 bottom (ball in centre).

http://i338.photobucket.com/albums/n422/r33c1eb0y/hinge3.jpg

Finally, pin is inserted, fitted with locking washer and nut.

http://i338.photobucket.com/albums/n422/r33c1eb0y/hinge4.jpg


eeeeezzzzzeeeee ;):)

[dullbird]

Mate THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THAT

Really appreciate the effort you took to go out and take pics...that really helps me understand how that works:)

here is one of my hinges I asked Ian why he thought it was wrecked and he said that it just doesn't feel good....

but for the cost of a pin kit might just do them any way

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/03/90.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/03/89.jpg

[d@rk51d3]

No worries, just glad I could be of help.


It really makes an easy job of removing the doors too. Just undo the nut, catch the washer, pull out the pin, (all x2) and lift the door away while catching the balls and springs which then fall out and roll accross the floor:D....... ( don't forget to release the door stay, on the inside - just under the dash)

[dullbird]

No worries, just glad I could be of help.


It really makes an easy job of removing the doors too. Just undo the nut, catch the washer, pull out the pin, (all x2) and lift the door away while catching the balls and springs which then fall out and roll accross the floor:D....... (
don't forget to release the door stay, on the inside - just under the dash)


there is none..the doors blow open and I think in turn that is what has partly wrecked the mudguards:D

[Lotz-A-Landies]

DB the pin kit is usually sufficient.

What happens is the the bronze ball gets worn in two planes so the northern hemisphere ends up with a step to the southern hemisphere, resulting in the lock that won't mate properly with the catch.

Diana

[p38arover]

Will the later style SIII hinges fit a II/IIA?

[d@rk51d3]

Yes, they will fit...... are they any better though?

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Will the later style SIII hinges fit a II/IIA?
Yes the later SIII/County hinges will fit, however the later hinges have problems with worn pins that are more difficult to repair and it fact often need the entire hinge replaced. Also SIII doors open out and up while the SII/SIIA hinges have the door opening out in the same horizontal plane.

[p38arover]

Thanks chaps.

[dullbird]

ok I have purchased a rebuild (pin kit) so hopefully can sort the hinges I already have thanks again Dark:)

[d@rk51d3]

Looking at your pics, you might want to try tightening your pins. they look a little loose. That might account for some of the play, too.

[UncleHo]

G'day Dullbird :)

I would suggest that you fit the door check stays, the series 2/2a ones are the same, the S3's differ, 2/2a have a rod that fits into a tube under the dash end, it then goes into the little twin plate on the door near the hinge end,the stay is threaded at one end it has a rubber bumper and a washer & nut, the series 3 has a different type of unit as it slips into a made section with a slot which is part of the door frame, there is a possibility that you may have S3 doors on a 2a or the other way round :( in that case you could always make a webbing or leather check strap :)


cheers

[dullbird]

thanks UH.....

I do want to fit check stays as I think thats the reason the doors took a hammering.

I have some more doors to put on they are from a late 2a so i'm hoping they will be compatible...

the leather is a good idea....

[UncleHo]

G'day dullbird :)

All 2/2a doors are compatable;) just the 3's that differed in the check strap area and door catches (on later burst proof type) that is the way that knowledgeable series owners can identify doors at swap meets/wreckers ;) don't worry,it is just experience with series that gets that knowledge, as with most things Landrover it is evolution and slowly at that :D

Hinge adjustment can be achieved by loosening the bolts holding hinge to the pillar slightly,top and bottom, and that will give you a slight adjustment forward/back, up/down, like you adjust a house door ;)



cheers

[korg20000bc]

My mate's Ex-RAF 2a doesn't have door check stays at all, but it does have a rubber bumper on the guard above the wheel arch to protect the pane when the door opens all the way. Viz.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/1572.jpg

[Lotz-A-Landies]

My mate's Ex-RAF 2a doesn't have door check stays at all, but it does have a rubber bumper on the guard above the wheel arch to protect the pane when the door opens all the way. Viz.However, don't get me wrong but your mate's ex RAF SII is highly highly modified including a perkins diesel engine and one piece windscreen.

[korg20000bc]

However, don't get me wrong but your mate's ex RAF SII is highly highly modified including a perkins diesel engine and one piece windscreen.

Yes I realise that. I was just putting it out there as an option.

[d@rk51d3]

The rubber block on the guard is common on S1's, isnt it?

(and that windscreen looks to be more than 1 piece :p )

[Sleepy]

The rubber block on the guard is common on S1's, isnt it?

Sure is:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/1568.jpg

Many Series 1's have bent wings too....despite the rubber stopper.:o (Bloody wind!)

[groucho]

The door stops on a series 2 are easy to make if the tube is still under the dash and the bit is still on the door. The right length bolt cut the head off flatten out the end drill a hole. The rubber dampers can be made out of soft rubber or an old thong is good, and a washer........

[dullbird]

I have all the bits to do it looke like the nut was not on the one on the drivers side which let it swing round ad give the guard a hammering...

there was still one on the passenger side when I took the door off last night so will reuse them

[UncleHo]

G'day dullbird :)


Right, you can adjust the door opening angle by screwing the nut/washer /rubber in or out ;) the rubber is a car size shock absorber bush :) from any repco/supercrud, or a rubber door stop from the hardware, I would recommend that you use a nylock nut or a 2nd locknut ;)


cheers