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vogue
31st March 2010, 05:05 PM
Interesting!
Land Rover LR3 Suspension Lift Kit (http://www.johnsonrods.com/index.html)

Dingmark Jim
31st March 2010, 05:42 PM
Raising the suspension by using shorter sensor arms is a "tried and true" means of raising the suspension. There are a few threads about this. Alas, these are US products and in the US, there's no legal impediment to deceptive and misleading advertising like here in Oz, particularly if it's an omission (I grew up there, so have lived these different rules;)). What the vendor doesn't mention is if the dealer is aware of this, then the warranty on suspension problems can be cancelled, it messes up the wheel alignment, accelerates tyre wear, and pretty much counter-acts most of the D3's exemplary stability and suspension. On the highway with these rods, a D3 rides like a Nissan Patrol :eek: .

All this said, I had a set of shorter rods for my old (RIP) D3 and will probably do the same for my D4, should it ever decide to arrive in Oz. I prefer Green Oval Experience's rods, which can be easily swapped back to the original rods (don't have to pull the rods off the delicate sensors, just off the frames) and only use them when offroad and when I know I'll be travelling faster than 40-50km/hr, but not at highway speed's.

It'll be interesting to hear what others think.

ADMIRAL
31st March 2010, 10:58 PM
I am throwing options around now, and after talking to Gordon, tend to agree with you. I think I will only look at changing the rods when I have a specific long distance trip over territory where they will be an advantage, and the disadvantages are outweighed.

Losing articulation when stiffening the suspension is too much of a price for me to pay in general use. It would negate one the advantages of the D3/4 in my eyes....being a better class of 'town' and 'cruise' vehicle, while not compromising the off road capability.

RichardK
31st March 2010, 11:23 PM
I have a set of USA rods but may never use them in battle, I have a BBS faultmate 2 and can lift the suspension in varying increments as "normal" height, I have used this with success on the powerlines track

Graeme
1st April 2010, 06:33 AM
I have a set of USA rods but may never use them in battle, I have a BBS faultmate 2 and can lift the suspension in varying increments as "normal" height, I have used this with success on the powerlines track
I can lift my "normal" height 30mm or 50mm at the flick of a switch, regardless of speed. More on this facility soon!

DiscoSaffa
1st April 2010, 07:30 AM
Losing articulation when stiffening the suspension is too much of a price for me to pay in general use. It would negate one the advantages of the D3/4 in my eyes....being a better class of 'town' and 'cruise' vehicle, while not compromising the off road capability.

Watching the 2nd video this lack of articulation is obvious, and in most cases off road I see this a bigger negative than the extra ground clearance.

RichardK
1st April 2010, 09:54 AM
In fact when offroading more often than not the suspension is in a raised mode, the suspension doesn't "stiffen" but the higher it goes some articulation is lost however that is more than made up by the effect of the traction control and if fitted the Ediff. The D3's have incredible offroad ability far out performing any "off the shelf" four wheel drive

CaverD3
3rd April 2010, 10:36 PM
Normally wheel alignement can be sorted with entended rods be re-setting with the rods on. This will also reduce tyre wear issues.

Normally the stability control seems to work with slightly shortened rods. Much like with longer springs on a coiler. But you are driving a vehicle with a higher centre of gravity so laws of pysics still apply.

Manufacturer cannot cancel any part of the warranty but they have the right to refuse a claim if an aftermarket modification has caused a failure. It is a risk you take with adding anything to a vehicle.

2.5 inches is a huge lift. :o and rediculous. :angel:
What on earth the issues would be if it goes into extended mode?

There may not be enough adustment to correct the wheel aligment.

At that height the stability control may well not respond in time or at all but this vehicle being so high stability issues will come into play due to the laws of physics. There would be little suspension movement and it would be very harsh.

Land Rover don't like any mods especially suspension one but with this one I would think they would definately tell you where to go if you claim any suspension failure not to mention CV and drive shafts.

It is illegal as the maximum lift allowed without an engineers cert is 50mm (1.96 inches) at least in NSW. I cannot see an engineer approving that one without some very expensive tests.

NavyDiver
13th December 2010, 01:49 PM
Assuming a 2.5 inch lift kit was installed. (63.5mm)
Normal heights
mm then inches
Access 1837 72.32 standard 1887 74.29 offroad 1942 76.46
With Lift kit
Access 1900.5 74.82 standard 1950.5 76.79 offroad 2005.5 78.96

Access height with the lift kit is only 13.5mm over standard driving hieght. Not a huge increase. Can the car be modified to remain at access hieght when at highway speed. This would seem to mostly overcome the centre of gravity/stabilty issues of the lift kit at higher speeds if it is possible? I have lots of bum scraps to date and a few extra MM sounds nice

Graeme
13th December 2010, 03:52 PM
Maybe have a read of this:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/verandah/114282-llams-electronic-height-controller-d3-d4-rrs.html

NavyDiver
14th December 2010, 03:56 PM
Maybe have a read of this:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/verandah/114282-llams-electronic-height-controller-d3-d4-rrs.html


Thanks for the tip Graeme. Looking at adding this asap. Have you consided both the LLAMS and the Johnson Rods? Getting low is clearly an advantage as well. Given the LLAMS seems to be fully configurable I wonder if the best of low and height would be possible. Extended mode is not needed 99% of the time. Dialing it in before we hit bottom or before we get our feet wet using the LLAMS is a great tip. I guess we all want that little bit more :)

101RRS
14th December 2010, 06:29 PM
I am also thinking about getting a LLAMS - one thing I do not like is the little knob that controls it - it is a shame the designers did not take into account the dash console layout of the disco and RRS and design something that looks as if it is original and takes into account available space - I see it fits in OK in the disco but not the RRS. On both there are blank panels around the radio/aircon controls but they will not fit the switch. On the RRS the switch cannot fit anywhere near the original height controller and about the only place that might work is in a spot on the steering column just below the indicator stalk. Operation will have to be by feel rather than site as it will be difficult to see from the drivers seat.

Other than that I think it is a great concept and once I recover from Xmas expenses I will look at getting one in my car.

Garry

chuck
14th December 2010, 06:41 PM
Graeme

Is there a retailer in victoria that will fit it?

Regards

Chuck

Graeme
14th December 2010, 10:33 PM
Have you consided both the LLAMS and the Johnson Rods?
There's a limit to how high the suspension can be raised, so 1 or the other to my way of thinking.

Graeme
14th December 2010, 10:37 PM
Is there a retailer in victoria that will fit it?

I expect any LR workshop could do it. IIRC Ritters get their ecu upgrades from DPL so why not Llams kits too and might be able to do a better all-up price than if you purchased a kit yourself then had them fit it.

Graeme
14th December 2010, 10:50 PM
I am also thinking about getting a LLAMS - one thing I do not like is the little knob that controls it
The knob is easily replaced. You might prefer the larger/fancier Jaycar knob HK7740 - it looks quite at home amongst D4 knobs. I agree about not having a handy spot to mount the switch in the RRS though and the switch being a 25mm diameter rotary switch doesn't make the job any easier.

101RRS
15th December 2010, 08:50 AM
I expect any LR workshop could do it.

Reading the installation instructions am I correct in thinking that the unit itself is basically plug in and the harder bit is to work where and how to mount the switch?

Garry

Graeme
15th December 2010, 10:39 PM
Hi Garry,
That's my view. Perhaps 30 mins to fit the loom and do the calibration and an hour or so messing about removing covers etc to mount the switch and feed its lead through to the module. An experienced fitter would install the loom in only a few minutes because the fitter would know how to remove the necessary covers and unplug the connectors from the suspension ecu.