One for the Auto Sparkies

[klappers]

So, I have the beast back on the road, but I am having trouble finding the problems with the electrical systems.

I accidentally blew the 100A Alternator Fusible link:wasntme:... and I am now in the process of replacing it..

Problem is that I now have no stereo, no fan and no central locking as well as no interior light. Now none of these fuses are blown on the drivers side fuse blocks. So where is the problem.

[Mick_Marsh]

I'm assuming its a RRC.
Grab a Multimeter or a tester (12V light with wires attached should do).
Consult the wiring diagram.
Check for voltage.
Start at the battery terminal
battery terminal clamp
Starter motor
terminal post (I don't know what it is either)
ignition switch
fuse terminals

To blow a 100A link, there must have been a hell of a current surge. I'm tipping there has been an arc at one of the connections. That connection will need to be cleaned.

regards
Mick

[klappers]

tdi disco...

yeah i checked voltage at battery and alternator both reading around 14 V....

i have 13.5v at the terminal post of the fuse block at the drivers side foot well

[Mick_Marsh]

I don't have a wiring diagram for one of those. If it's similar to a RRC, the next step is the ignition switch. With the ignition off, check if it has supply to it. If yes, then with the ignition in acc position, check is there is supply to the fuses. Doo the same for the ign position and the off position.
If there is supply to the line (input) side of the fuses, then there must be supply to the load side of the fuses. If there isn't, it's the fuse holder connections or fuses. Jiggle them about a bit and replace the fuses. I've had some fuses that do not appear blown but when you take them out they fall apart.

regards
Mick

[klappers]

I have taken apart all of the fuses that are in question, but I shall try the barrell next :) Cheers

[klappers]

When I place my mutli meter across the fuse there is nothing, when I take the fuse out and test again, I get 13.5V.. how does this work? The same thing happens for the stereo, windows, ac etc. There is power to the back of the fuse block but no power through the fuses?? What do you guys and gals think? i am thinking of just going and getting a couple of bags of fuses and replacing the lot

[pop058]

When I place my mutli meter across the fuse there is nothing, when I take the fuse out and test again, I get 13.5V.. how does this work? The same thing happens for the stereo, windows, ac etc. There is power to the back of the fuse block but no power through the fuses?? What do you guys and gals think? i am thinking of just going and getting a couple of bags of fuses and replacing the lot

If you are checking for voltage, then it is the PD (potential difference) between 2 points. The +ve and -ve terminals on a battery should have (approx) 12VDC PD. If you are checking voltage across a fuse, if the fuse is good, then there will be NO voltage drop across it. Earth 1 side of your multimeter and test the fuse (both sides) with the other lead. A good system will have 12v on both sides of the fuse. this means your supply AND the fuse is OK. When testing, place the test lead on the contact NOT the fuse. This gives you the additional infomation that the fuse contact within the fuseblock is OK

HTH

Do not use the resistance range of your multimeter on anything live, or you will need to fix it aswell

[Mick_Marsh]

i am thinking of just going and getting a couple of bags of fuses and replacing the lot
Whenever I have electrical problems, that's what I do. Fuses are cheap and often the problem.
After you have replaced the fuses, continue with what POP058 has said.
You may find you have blown the light bulb or possibly have a faulty earth or (more than likely, has happened to me in the past) replacing the fuses will fix your problem.

[klappers]

It was just the fuseable link after all that.. :) cheers for the help