doing the bulkhead!!!!

[lardy]

Gday all,
I am removing the wings(guards) tomorrow the bonnet and wing tops have been rubbed down, working round to the bulkhead(firewall) ....i am changing the colour to drab olive green ....just cos i like it.
I have 4 weeks to finish the job fingers crossed, if anyone wants to come lend a hand,get a cuppa or have a yarn feel free it will be a lonely project

[billnjim]

Hi Lardy, depending on rosters I may be available to give you a hand, this will be more educational for me as I may have to attempt this job sooner rather later, thinking I may as well herculiner the whole wagon (internal) once I've seen how to pull it all apart. Please PM when you might like my novice help but please be aware I'm in the desert on a 2:I & sat. comms can be limited at times.

[lardy]

Mate have sent you a p.m. regarding the mission, typically it started raining but she'll be right!
I reckoned the wings would be off today but it will now be tomorrow grrrr!
I was tied up with getting a new in-between plate made for the spare wheel carrier so that took a while.

[klappers]

Would love to come and give you a hand to do it, but I am off helping Team Rovacraft at the West Oz challenge. PM me when you are back and I still may be able to come around and give you a hand :)

[klappers]

Just realised that the last post didnt make much sense... I am at work at the moment and then when I get back I will be helping Team Rovacraft.

[lardy]

Klappers thanks for the kind offer mate, I wanted to watch the Oz challenge i saw it advertised in the local IGA.
Never mind i will be up to my armpits in panels instead lol.
Maybe next year.
If you finish up and i haven't got it sorted would appreciate your help though bud.

[lardy]

Hi all,
Just a brain pick- the purple cable running up the A-post to the ceiling is it for interior light .....And the wiper spindles how hell do they come off i cant see the grub screw as mentioned in the rave disc thanks for any light you can shed

Oh yeah nearly forgot in picture (004) the heater control cable is it just a spanner job ?

[malsgoing130]

Hi lardy,
Those spindles have a tiny grub screw that is usually rusted in as well as full of rubbish i had to put the dremmel on it and with the heat and vibration it loosened it up. The grub screw on mine was imperial not metric. Sounds like a big job good luck.
Mal

[klappers]

Yeah mate for sure.. will let you know

[lardy]

cheers for that Mal i think i will just order some new ones as it's all too hard, for a poxy little part (although because it's small it will have a premium price no doubt lol

[lardy]

Interestingly enough i have had the last bolt on the clutch pedal box thread itself the bastard grrrrr! so now i have to work out a way to remove it.
It's the n/s top one.
Would you guys (if anyone reads this) cut it low toward the retained nut and then drill it out, and replace the knackered part out with nuts bolts and washers ?

[jplambs]

Hi Lardy, if you get the chance could you put up some more pictures of the various stages of pulling her apart? I'm about to tackle my firewall so I'm looking forward to reading how you go about it.

[Bigmark]

Ahh looks like a nice job to tackle. touch wood i havnt got any rust in my 95 but any water that does come in is from those darn vents- i have trialled many types of rubber with some success. May end up siliconing them shut for good- its a very bad design to stop the leaking, the small lip on the firewall doesnt cut it. best ive done so far is a very soft compound flat rubber on the vents and a small rubber that fits over the lip on the firewall- i just need to find something softer.

[lardy]

G'day Lamby,
This is how i tackled it from the get go, how you tackle it is up to you of course.
REMOVE BATTERY CABLES REMOVE BATTERY CABLES
1. Undo the nuts and bolts that penertrate the chassis and are on a half twisted bracket to underside of the bulkhead.
And it appears that you break each component down to a sensible size.
2. remove the front lights pull the cables(including the horn) through the back of the wings (remove bulbs) undo the wings from
3. undo the bolts between the outer wing (guard) and wing top giving access to the inner wing and allowing enough space to draw the cable from the lights out, remove and lay on the engine.
4. Remove all the bolts from down the A-post (gaining access by removing the body fixing plugs from the lower thre holes in the wheel arch spats -inner wing wheel arch side)
5. Remove the front grill remove the bolts from the front panel (you can leave the wings joined to the front panel and remove them all as one piece but i was painting mine and i am working on my own) they are situated down the sides to the sides of the radiator,and you need to remove the horn fixing bolts and then replace them to draw out the panel.
6. retrospectivley once the panels are out the way it is fairly straight forward i would be looking at adding bolts and kit back onto your new bulkhead so as not to lose where you are but bearing in mind it will make for a weighty item to replace if you are working alone and don't have an engine hoist.
7. Start dismantling the dash keep items lableled and throw them behind you into the back of the cab as you will be putting them back on in reverse order, with regards the grey dash trim there are some grey plastic push in pegs that require pulling out as a chef i used a french zester and it proved to be ideal lol .
7a.Start with the land rover cover on the grab handle passenger side and work over to the drivers side the wiper motor is easy enough to remove the spindles prove to be fun.
8 when you have acess to the vents and the grey trim has gone start undoing the the ven panels on the underside ofthe vents i believe it to be 8 or 10 mm bolts that need to come off first then the hinge bolts can be tackled then the inside bolts on the mechanism (there are a couple of phillip head screws to remove too but they are obvious enough)
9. look at starting the loom once the inner bulkhead is more or less clear there are 3 plugs down on the transmission tunnel that need to be removed the top of them has a press in tab that releases them from the bulkhead, to get access to these i would remove the jubillee clip (don't know what that is in Australian wasn't part of the citizenship test) from airbox to turbo this will allow you to get at it, there is an earth cable by the injectors on the block and a red cable with a white plastic sensor of some sort to remove on the drivers side there are a couple of relays the fuse box on the passenger side needs to be removed from its mount remove the fuse remembering what order they were in, give it a dose of spray oil then seperate the block so you can fit it through the loom access port in the bulkhead- i could not be arsed to **** around with the bulkhead cable ties so i cut them with side cutters i maybe able to source aftermarket jobs and will give you the head up if i do.
10. i then removed the pedal boxes and applied them to the new bulkhead i did not clamp the rubber ends of the pipes so will need to bleed the system again, during the pedal box extraviganza i seperated the steering coloumn at the uj closest to the bulkhead then drilled out the ignition shear bolts (these cost about 3 bucks from Land Rover)
11. I think i have covered the ellements in roughly the correct order as i did it, I am sure that Pat or Dave will say i am a **** and did it all wrong but it worked for me. finally pass the loom through the bulkhead (remove the black cover first do that from inside the vehicle pushing the pegs back out)
I removed the fuse pack off the bulkhead prior to passing the loom through as i think it would give more access - also i did not have a heater box to remove as i took it out a while back.
Hope this helps it is just general info and just a guide of things i did and obviously there may well be better ways of doing stuff regards Andy.

P.s. SPRAY UP THE BULKHEAD FIXING BOLTS AND THE ONES IN THE CAB A COUPLE OF WEEKS PRIOR TO STARTING SO AS TO ALEVIATE THE DRAMAS AT THE LAST MINUTE.

[lardy]

Ahh looks like a nice job to tackle. touch wood i havnt got any rust in my 95 but any water that does come in is from those darn vents- i have trialled many types of rubber with some success. May end up siliconing them shut for good- its a very bad design to stop the leaking, the small lip on the firewall doesnt cut it. best ive done so far is a very soft compound flat rubber on the vents and a small rubber that fits over the lip on the firewall- i just need to find something softer.

Mark to my mind they are useful if like me you don't have air con but they are painful, I think that would be a plan should i get he air con sourced from QLD life would be a bit happer come summer and no ingress yay

[lardy]

Further too my previous how too dismantle a defenders bulkhead.
I came upon an issue with the brake servo clutch pedal and steering shaft arrangement today it looks like i should have installed the steering column first and the brake servo and clutch master second it would have made life heaps easier.
Also the clamps between the bulkhead to windscreen can look really reacted but probably could be salvaged with a wire brush on a drill, although they will be pitted, if you need to save them apply a thin layer of filler should be sufficent to smooth any problems out.



Also i learnt today that it would be prudent to crc or wd40 your grub screws on the wiper spindle mine were rooted by the time i got them off lesson learned $300 from Land Rover :mad:

[lardy]

Bulkhead is off it was a bastard You need to be aware that the pipe of the clutch master cylinder is in the way and has to come off at the first union.
Do a final check for things conected still on the inside of the bulkhead.
If you have rock sliders or steps you may have to take one off so you can slide the bulkhead out one way (as in across the car as oppossed to just up in the air.
So to recap on todays little adventure the doors were off the Bpost cover needs to be removed with the seat belt anchor point.
then remove the sun visors the centre mirror and it's mount then remove the headlining studs these are real ****s to get out.the from A-post cover should be off as well then prise the lining down to get access with a rachet and a ten mm to lossen the bolts holding the roof to the top windscreen.
Once these are out then you can use a razor blade and cut the silicone (which will be holding the windscreen in still ) between the windscreen frame and the the underside of the roof.
On the bulkhead there are two main bolts (i can get the part number if require as i bought new) one either side then two 13mm bolts and nuts above that reatined on a plate that needs to be removed.
I then did a final apprasial found some plates that i had lossened but not removed these inhibated the ability to slide the bulkhead left or right, and stuck a webbing strap around the bulkhead and jacked it up whilst at tension I pushed it out across the car.

[lardy]

Hi Lardy, if you get the chance could you put up some more pictures of the various stages of pulling her apart? I'm about to tackle my firewall so I'm looking forward to reading how you go about it.

there are some more pics now matey

[lardy]

As a continuation of the bulkhead subject a sub-subject would have to be the Windscreen, I couldn't find a thread so maybe this is the first or i am wasting my time because no-one is checking this crap out anyway .
To renmove the windscreen in situ with the surround.

Remove the seatbelts from the B-post
Remove the grey (on mine) plastic cover on the B-post (don't worry about saving the body fixing clips regarding the plastic cover they are crap and fragile, in fact buy some before you start.
then remove the cover.
remove the windscreen to bulkhead clamps (it should indicate left or right within the back of the outer clamp which side they came from keep the components together and in order of where they came from it will make re- assembly easy)
Now attempt to get the equally fragile christmas tree (white) body fixings out of the edge of the sill above the door .
now remove the plastic windscreen side moulding (black - two screws)
Now remove the Sun visors and remove the rear view mirror
You should be able to ease down the headlining and get access to the roof to windscreen bolts (I would suggest that plates with the retained nut should be removed with the bolts and stored for replacement )
now if two people are present it will be a walk in the park or you could have fun on your own
(replacing this unit requires two bodies )
to remove the windscreen take a pry bar insert it between the bulkhead and windscreen surround try to minimilise damage
Lift up off the 4 retaining cones on the bulkhead
Then up and into the roof space to ensure its clear and lift off
clean any residule sealer and remove the rubber foam strip buy a new one before carrying out the task also the buy the top rubber strip it could get damaged also buy a tube of sikaflex this can be painted over at the end of the job

[jplambs]

Not wasting you time Lardy - I'm taking lots of notes. Thanks again.

Jonathan.

[flagg]

Thanks Lardy - certainly not wasting time.. I'm going to fit a new bulkhead soon so I'm watching this threat very closely!

Cheers,
Dec

[lardy]

Interestingly enough i have had the last bolt on the clutch pedal box thread itself the bastard grrrrr! so now i have to work out a way to remove it.
It's the n/s top one.
Would you guys (if anyone reads this) cut it low toward the retained nut and then drill it out, and replace the knackered part out with nuts bolts and washers ?

With regards this I did cut it square to the retained nut and drillied it out, the nut was removed as it was buggered on the thread and was replaced with a nyloc bolt and washer deal.

[lardy]

Upon the replacement of the windscreen and surround i took the opportunity to place some non drying windscreen sealer between the windscreen and bulkhead, this
will have more waterproofing possibilities as it is soft.To the rear closer to the bulkhead i put some metal to metal sealer just to give it extra hold (may well be me being over zealous but)
I then put the new foam in, was going to leave it out as i believe it causes more issues than it solves, plus when i was working for defence i noted some had it some did not.
I have purchased some genuine Sikaflex in black (and plan to paint that in drab olive green) not sure if the upper seal was good due to windscreen removal,I stuck it round the windscreen surround to roof area en-mass, also i applied a fair amount to the outside of the foam strip lower window, it may look slightly unsightly but won't notice so much when painted in, it has a 5mm over lap onto the panels and should aid some waterproofing properties to the bulkhead,I also ran it inside where i could acess it particularly on the end.
I reckon this and the amount of this product i used should preserve the bulkhead for a good time.

Wurth Australia Pty Ltd - Catalogue (http://www.wurth.com.au/catalogueview.asp?pdf=A03_0015.pdf) the aerosol bottom of the page.
Now this gear is chemically based and I know the dinky's out there swear by fish oil, but until you see this stuff work you don't know how much of a good investment it is.
Reasoning behind buying it in aerosol version is the gun is $400 on it's own and as i doubt that I can justify that with the amount of use even with the chassis every two years.
I think i paid $22.65 a can and one can will easily do the bulkhead, it truly is amazing to watch the stuff get under the seams and creases of even the closest fitting panel.
They will offer you the probe for $7.65 but I believe you will do good enough with the straw that comes with the can as it is the ideal bore for the job and is free- also the probe is more for the chassis.
I am of the mind set not wanting to do the bulkhead again in a hurry I may get to work with more wurths wax around the windscreen clamps and door fixings, for the inconvenience of a little bit of unslightly clear chemical wax against great protection I RECKON IT'S WORTH IT !
They also produce sound deadening pads which i fitted to the rear roof under the headling and the off-cuts went to the rear panels of the 130 around the rear window and behind the seats, it's qualities are that it stops some of the drumming and firms up the panels they do two types the thin silver coated one i used for the roof and rear panels, the self adhesive open foam i will add to the bonnet.
Here are the links :Wurth Australia Pty Ltd - Catalogue (http://www.wurth.com.au/catalogueview.asp?pdf=A03_0534.pdf)
Hope this helps well back to it I have some painting to do ...forgot to say putting panels in after using enamel (celloulose paint) you can damage the paint (again the beauty of drab olive it's not rocket science to match in and is easy to apply even a spaz like me did it ) fixing panels as it takes 4-6 weeks to go hard although it is quite resilliant from the get go two pack has hardeners in it .

[lardy]

When removing the bulkhead and you have pushed the loom through to the cabin side and then removed any bits on the engine side you then need to borrow an engine hoist and a strop to lift it.
Lift the bulkhead up and push it off to one side (removing steps /brush guards and the like.
there are three fixing points either side the two long bolts buy replacements from land rover they are cheap enough and give piece of mind