1969 Series IIA Ex Army project

[jameshuelin]

Hi All
A couple weekends ago my brother some mates and I went to collect a IIA what i think to be a GS from a bloke up in kin kin.
shamo from the forum was one of the mates who came along, with his disco 2 proving invaluable.
It's in pretty shabby condition but has a good solid base and is a great start for a small project.
It was originally done up in the mid nineties buy a guy called Noel R. Wyeth
And apparently was for a bit trip around AUS that evidently never happened, it has been through 2 owners since then.
so the car was left with alot of great extras, such as; farey o/d a rear difflock, thermo fan, jerry holders on the tailgate, door vents, and air compressor and tank etc. you may also notice there are very well made vents cut into the bonett.
There was also a big trunk filled with original land rover spares including, many tools, more than 30 gaskets, water pump, mec fuel pump, shockies, lenses, leads, nuts n bolts etc.
I'll store all the bits and peices as i know they'll all be needed.
So the plan is to keep it at my uncles in eumundi and get the car to roadworthy condition, i'm not after a concourse car but a good reliable trip car and just keep working on it after roadworthy. i would like to keep it to the condition it was once the trip fittings were all done.
I look forward to gaining knowledge from all of the very landrover-wise people on here and hopefully it'll be a fun and rewarding experience.
Also, if anyone knows more about the history of the car or the previous owner who did the car up i'd be glad to hear from you
cheers
James
P.S. will hopefully get some photos up in a few hours.

[d@rk51d3]

Congratulations. :cool:

Looking forward to the piccies. If you can let us know the chassis number, that will get the old "history" ball rolling.

[jameshuelin]

Alrighty sounds great!
I'll be heading up in a couple weeks, (uni commitments) so will get all of the number then i
f i can get photobucket to work! the photos should be up pretty soon :p
James

[The ho har's]

well done and ex-mil you need to join REMLR;)


Mrs hh:angel:

[jameshuelin]

Some photos of the beast

http://i921.photobucket.com/albums/ad60/jameshuelin1124/IMG_3998.jpg
http://i921.photobucket.com/albums/ad60/jameshuelin1124/IMG_4000-1.jpg
http://i921.photobucket.com/albums/ad60/jameshuelin1124/IMG_4005.jpg
http://i921.photobucket.com/albums/ad60/jameshuelin1124/IMG_3988.jpg
http://i921.photobucket.com/albums/ad60/jameshuelin1124/IMG_3990.jpg
http://i921.photobucket.com/albums/ad60/jameshuelin1124/IMG_3991.jpg
http://i921.photobucket.com/albums/ad60/jameshuelin1124/IMG_3992.jpg
http://i921.photobucket.com/albums/ad60/jameshuelin1124/IMG_3987.jpg
http://i921.photobucket.com/albums/ad60/jameshuelin1124/IMG_3986-1.jpg
http://i921.photobucket.com/albums/ad60/jameshuelin1124/IMG_4024.jpg
http://i921.photobucket.com/albums/ad60/jameshuelin1124/IMG_4000.jpg
http://i921.photobucket.com/albums/ad60/jameshuelin1124/IMG_4017.jpg
http://i921.photobucket.com/albums/ad60/jameshuelin1124/DSC_0864.jpg
http://i921.photobucket.com/albums/ad60/jameshuelin1124/DSC_0865.jpg
http://i921.photobucket.com/albums/ad60/jameshuelin1124/DSC_0868.jpg
http://i921.photobucket.com/albums/ad60/jameshuelin1124/DSC_0875.jpg
http://i921.photobucket.com/albums/ad60/jameshuelin1124/IMG_3971.jpg
http://i921.photobucket.com/albums/ad60/jameshuelin1124/IMG_3984.jpg

[pop058]

good pics. The previous owner seems to have a thing for fuel filters. There is abit of S3 stuff among the bits and on your Landy.

[jameshuelin]

Hi pop yeah i agree with the fuel filters, and i'm not sure why there would be a vent on the LH front.

To Mrs Ho Har, i had a look and not sure how to register for REMLR :P

[pop058]

Hi pop yeah i agree with the fuel filters, and i'm not sure why there would be a vent on the LH front.
To Mrs Ho Har, i had a look and not sure how to register for REMLR :P

Check to see if the vent has been added and if so, I have no idea what it is for. The other option is that the guard could have been replaced (damaged the original ??) with an S3 gaurd and has been cut to look like a 2A military one. If you have a look at the angle cut, it will have a neatly folded edge inside with a fine piece of wire (about the size of a brazing rod) within the fold.

The door tops appear to be S3 as well. Keep the pics coming and your chassis and engine numbers when you get a chance.

And I'm sure, Mrs HH will be along shortly

[ellard]

Hi there Guys

Its a good find - and in quite good condition for its age.

You dont get to see many with all its fitting - havent seen many with the internal rool bar (or is it as after thought)

Well done.................and being a firey - need to comment on the nice Austra Firepac in the shed as well.

All the best

Wayne

[The ho har's]

Go here print and fill in this form and post it to Phoenix - Richard

Vehicle Info Form -REMLR (http://www.remlr.com/remlrform.html)

the website

The Registry of Ex Military Land Rovers. Australia, New Zealand and elsewhere. (http://www.remlr.com/)


Mrs hh:angel:

[Shonky]

...need to comment on the nice Austra Firepac in the shed as well.


I was going to comment on the Austral too... I didn't know QFRS used them, but I can't say I ever made any effort to find out!

Something different!

[groucho]

In the first pic the L/H fuel tank. Is the dipstick fuel guage a standard army part.? I have a 10 gallon L/R tank with one. Just wondering.......

[jameshuelin]

Hi all
thanks Mrs Ho Har for the registration form,
also, the fire truck my uncle bought for towing his boat, but needs wiring etc for the moment i beleive.
To groucho, yes i'm not sure, i thought that both tanks were meant to have dipsticks as my father's radio ex army 69 IIA has 2.
so you think both tanks came withouht dipsticks originally?
cheers
James

[pop058]

Army 2A's have duel tanks/dippers

[jameshuelin]

Hi all
I'm heading up to work on the car this weekend,
I was just wondering
where about would i look for all the relevant I.D. numbers on the car?
i.e.
Chassis no.
Engine no. (known)
Build no.
etc.
also i assume the military also had their own numbering system?
cheers
James

[UncleHo]

G'day Jameshuelin :)

Going by a quick look at the pics, It would probably be a GS,of about 68/9 and the military ID plate(Nomenclature Plate) will be between the wiper cover panel and the map light panel, and should read something like:
Truck utility 3/4ton Landrover 2a 109in WB,
Census:6028,
Chassis No253******and a letter "D" or onwards
Contract:C1******
Date ?/6?

The chassis Number will be stamped on the Left rear spring hanger mount just above the upper rear shackle pin--253****** should be the same as on the Nomenclature plate on the dash :)

I hope that is of some help,
P.S.I have a 1968 GS

[jameshuelin]

Hi Uncleho
that's very comprehensive :p, so i think i'll start from there and report back on sunday once i've gone up to see the car
thanks again :D
James

[jameshuelin]

Hi all (again)
I have just come across a 186 (holden) with engine mounts and adaptor plate to s3 gbox&transfer, it needs a fuel pump.
I was wondering,
-will it fit a IIA gbox
-is it a good 4x4 engine (i will use the car for trips, i.e. on road and dirt and sand, and fair 4x4ing)
-would the s3 gbox be better
-would it be a cheaper engine to run (parts and economy)
-are they a reliable engine
-i already have a 2.25L petrol in my landie in need of a rebuild, so would it be more sensible to find a fuel pump and transplant the engine to the landie? (as i have all the bits necessary)
cheers
James

[jameshuelin]

One more thing:p
If the engine fitted without panel modification into the s3 chassis, would it therefore fit into the sIIA chassis, also as the orig engine in the IIA is a 4cyl, the front xmember in the chassis will have to have a cutout fabricated in it? to fit the length of the new motor.
(also if i wasnt clear before the engine and adaptor plate also came with a s3 gbox and transfer case.
cheers (once again :p)
James
P.S. i also explained earlier i had farey O/D so i was also wondering along with the other pros/cons which engine was better for overdrive?
So basically overall which engine should i be using,haha:p

[chazza]

Most people who have driven a Land Rover with a Rover engine and then another with a Holden engine, will never pick a Holden as a preferred engine I suspect.

In my case I found both the Holden conversions I drove: lacking in torque for off road use (especially sand); revved too high and always "felt stressed"; were not as easy or as pleasant to drive.

Other disadvantages:
1. Chassis needs modifying.
2. Increased fuel consumption (I suspect).
3. Starting handle cannot be used.
4. With the very cheap Rover spares available from the UK, no advantage in this dept.
5. Radiator will need modifying, etc.
6. Will most probably lower the appeal/value of the car at sale time.

In short the Rover engine is a superbly good one at the job it is designed to do; all of the parts for it are still available; is very strong and rugged and can tolerate all sorts of abuse such as over-heating.

My advice is to keep it, or purchase one,

Cheers Charlie

[UncleHo]

G'day Jameshuelin :)

The Holden motor is NOT a good conversion for everyday use, it is a high revving motor (short stroke) and with the 4.7 diff gearing in a Series Landy it works hard,and you won't get a great deal more speed out of it because of the gearing, the 4 cylinder 2.25 motor in good condition will do almost anything that it is asked, remembering this vehicle was built in the era of unboosted drum brakes and can not be compared with a late model disc braked vehicle, the series gearbox does not like the Holden motor as it is a weaker box than the 2/2a one, I have done 140,000+ miles on my 2.25 motor in my 68 GS and I travel at about 90-95kph ;) (some say a little faster) and it has been totally reliable transmission wise,the motor has got regular maintainance,and has generally been reliable,fuel wise about 15-18 miles to the gallon, and I have never had problems getting spares locally :D


cheers

[jameshuelin]

Ok
Thanks very much for your input,
I suspect the 2.25 might need new rings, this is why i thought it may just be simpler (more cost effective) to do a transplant, but your right, the car's not designed for a holden motor. so i think i might cool my heels a little on that one.
A few more questions :p
If i do need to replace my rings, should i have the head looked at?
because again i'm a student and dont have an awful amount of money, and will this be expensive.
one other thing, with the o/d fitted as it is now, will the 2.25 have enough torque to keep the car going in 5th gear?
and does this change much if the transplant is done?
also, how helpful all in all is overdrive for the 2.25?
Here is some information i have collected,
the red motor is
more economical
more powerful
easier and cheaper to find parts for
will work very well with overdrive
how much truth is there to this?

thanks once again
you folks have been fantastic.
James

[UncleHo]

G'day Jameshuelin :)

The only way to check if the vehicle needs rings is to do a compression test, which is easy enough to do, as it may only need valve stem seals, which on start-up will blow blue smoke,and if to does need rings it is a fairly simple job that does not require the removal of the motor just the head and sump,and if done by a competent person is an easy job, or if somebody competent instructs you how to do it.with removal of the pistons it is imperitive that the conrod bearings be kept in sequence/order, or replace with new slippers of the same size.the pistons will be marked on the top with there size so ordering rings would not be a major problem.


cheers

[jameshuelin]

Okay
well thanks very much for the feedback
when i go up this weekend i'll have a further think, once i asses the situation
cheers
James

[jameshuelin]

Hi all
I have been working on the landy today, trying to get it started, turns out the wiring on this car is not too flash, it's not a birds nest, and all the extra wiring put in for the auxillery components was done very well, but i'm afraid the previous owner did not take very good care of the old girl and i'm now left with the task of sorting out the wiring.
anyway, whilst trying to start the car today, my uncle aand i found that the starter motor didnt seem to be getting enough power, and found
a) a poor connection from the power to the actual starter housing, it needs a new insulator for the bolt that runs out of the housing
b)the starter armature will need replacing
so what would the most cost effective solution be to this problem?
does anyone have a spare starter? :p
cheers
James

[UncleHo]

G'day Jameshuelin :)

It probably has a Lucas M418G starter, which the bolt insulation block is a known problem they are available from Kevin Baker (KBClassic spares) he is not on the internet, but you can contact him by phone, he is "The Lucas Man" and has a vast quantity of spares and knowledge(ex Lucas staff), his No is (07)54 944 221 he is at Witta about 10K outside of Maleny, he should be able to supply most parts for your starter :) a very nice person to deal with as I have known him for 20+ years

you will need to give him the No stamped on the case of the starter,M--- and then a 6? digit No



cheers

[jameshuelin]

Hi Uncleho
thanks very much for the contact, i think we sorted something out, and i think i'll be up in maleny on the weekend to get all the parts i need for the starter, so that's another thing checked off the list.
To everyone, should have some project shots and questions up this evening
cheers
James

[jameshuelin]

Hi all
Have a few interesting points for you all, and also a few troubling questions, from working on the car over the weekend.
-first of all how hard is it to find an ex army dipstick as the rhs dipstick hole has been covered
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/147.jpg
also is it usual to have a metric dipstick, as the dipstick i do have goes to 45L
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/148.jpg
Also to do with the fuel tanks, the LHS fuel tank plug is there and fine as shown,
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/149.jpg
but the RHS fuel tank plug has a smaller thread about 12mm in dia, also the plug is missing so what should i be doing here do you think?
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/150.jpg
Here are some build codes etc. sydney pressed metal corp. standard warning plate covered in paint.
chassis no. 25327183D
Body no. 19454
Ser. no. 101919454
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/151.jpg
Here's the Nonclameture (wrong spelling?) plate
Utility 1/4 ton GS
again chassis no. ...
census no. 6028
contract no. c106280
date 10-68
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/152.jpg
Here's another plate not sure if it's army standard?
it has ,
23 10/68 Sth 11 (the only thing i know it the build date)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/153.jpg
and here is simply the info plate
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/154.jpg
In the next two photos the over drive is shown with a tube coming out of the top and in the next it shows where the tube finishes, joined to the original fuel bowl (replaced with a lucas fuel filter)
*also! how do i go about cleaning that kind of crap off the engine and transmission?!* having difficulty
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/155.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/156.jpg
Here are just the cooling vents on the bonnet, i beleive they are boat cooling vents.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/157.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/158.jpg
and one final thing
i was wondering what brand these FW hubs were?
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/159.jpg
Sorry for the bombardment of information :p
hopefully you all find something interesting in that jumble :D
cheers
James

[korg20000bc]

James,
An Ex-Army dip stick just went through ebay without any bids. Search for this item number: 300419659118

Also, clean off the crap with heaps of degreaser, let it soak in 24hrs and blast it with a gurnie

[akelly]

Dipsticks - there was a couple on ebay in the last few days, I cant find them now but I remember them because it was an unusual item.

Cleaning the gunk - if you dont have a pressure wash then the best bet is to use a scraper (I have an old chisel) to get the bulk off, then soak in degreaser (use the citrus one please!) and hose it off. That crap is pretty toxic so capture as much as you can rather than washing it into a drain.

cheers,

Adam

[UncleHo]

G'day Jameshuelin :)


Hi, James well it is a 3/4 ton GS and from the same contract as mine and Rob Hays, mine is 4/68, Robs is 7/68 from memory,and yours is 10/68, so that was a large contract for 109 GS trucks, probably for 150 vehicles,possibly after the 68 TET offensive in SVN,the small plate is the into service plate, 23rd Oct 68, into Sth (Southern Command) @11miles, and would have been in condition 1A (new) the small PMC plate gives the body No and the type of body,19454 body 10919454 type (109) the service instruction plate give the military terms for the oils, engine SAE 40, gear/transfer EP 80w90 diffs the same,just go by what the haynes workshop manual states,(4 cylinder Landy owners bible) Haynes "Landrover 2/2a/3 4cylinder petrol normal control)catalogue No 314 :D

Is there any sign of a dipstick on the RH tank ? if not it would be a civilian tank, same except the D/stick, I have a gallon dipstick in one tank and a litre one in the other,10 gallons=45 litres:) the difference in drain bungs would be that one has been repaired possibly with a sump or diff plug in place of the large bung, the tube coming from the O/drive is a rather quaint oil breather useing a fuel filter bowl:) (good way to carry a spare fuel pump bowl and gasket) ;) the freewheel hubs are AVM metal ones the same as mine but that wheel is later Series 3 109 (AYG-81080 with the large stud holes and the ridge around the holes, wrong type for a 2a as the nuts do not go on far enough on the shorter & smaller 2a studs I also note that it has extractors fitted, similar to mine, so it may also have had them fitted whilst in service as ther was at one stage a lack of exhaust manifolds available in Aust, and locally built extractors were fitted, I have seen some 20+ ex army 2a fitted with them, so it could have been a local(base w/shop) procurement item.

hope that is of help


cheers

[korg20000bc]

2 dipsticks up at the moment:
Landrover Ex Army Fuel Dipstick - eBay 4x4 Accessories, Exterior, Car Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 01-May-10 20:06:02 AEST) (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Landrover-Ex-Army-Fuel-Dipstick-/300422249396?cmd=ViewItem&pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item45f28fbbb4#ht_500wt_1105)

Landrover Ex Army Fuel Dipstick - eBay 4x4 Accessories, Exterior, Car Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 01-May-10 20:03:41 AEST) (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Landrover-Ex-Army-Fuel-Dipstick-/300422248984?cmd=ViewItem&pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item45f28fba18#ht_500wt_1105)

[korg20000bc]

G'day Jameshuelin :)


Hi, James well it is a 3/4 ton GS and from the same contract as mine and Rob Hays, mine is 4/68, Robs is 7/68 from memory,and yours is 10/68, so that was a large contract for 109 GS trucks, probably for 150 vehicles,possibly after the 68 TET offensive in SVN,

Mine's in the same contract too. 172-404

[jameshuelin]

Hi guys
thanks very much for the feedback, i'll give the cleaning another crack over the weekend.
And also thanks for the threads on the dipsticks!
Uncleho
do you know where i might find the haynes workshop manual? i have the original owners manual up in cairns but i suspect it will not be of great use.
also do you think it will matter much with the series 3 rims? it has 2 series IIA rims 2 series III rims and t more IIA rims spare.
And with the extractors, you might be able to tell if mine or yours were from the start is that mine run through the rear PTO holes in the chassis with muffler between the rear 2 xmembers.
thanks once again for the great help fellas!
James

[UncleHo]

G'day Jameshuelin :)

You maybe able to get a Haynes from British Off Road at Forest Glen near Nambour,Paxton would be able to tell you,and or order one for you, if not try the Caboolture Sunday Markets as there is a bloke there that specialises in 2nd hand motor manuals, or you maybe able to get one from Evil bay or one of the city motor bookshops, but I think I saw a series haynes up at BOR when I was there last week,won't be going up until next week to get some tailgate struts for the Rangie :)

the exhaust comes from the extractors,down under the front chassis rail, then up over the next one by the gearbox, then through the PTO holes and then across at the rear with the muffler,as per original, (but mine has the muffler in the centre between the X-members) then out on the right rear, same as original


BTW. James, your vehicle's army rego No was 174-246 date of disposal at Brisbane auction,it was noted as spotted in 2008 alive but in need of work.



G'day Korg20000bc ;)

My GS is 172-484 :D

[jameshuelin]

Hi mate
thanks again, i might swing by british offroad on saturday if i can.
cheers
James
P.S. how do you know the info about the sighting of my car :D andis there any more, i.e. owner location etc? thanks again

[UncleHo]

g'day Jameshuelin :)

I got that info from the REMLR.com (Registry of Ex Military Land Rovers) it is in the army registration numbers section, where the vehicles ARN's are listed by chassis no. ( that sighting was noted by a member in 08 and was passed on to the administrator for inclusion with the rego no) that is why somebody recommended that you join REMLR :) it is a free website and the REMLR forum is hosted by AULRO, where the members chat the same as here, you will see the REMLR forum in the forums list on the front page of this forum.


cheers

[jameshuelin]

ohk
sounds great
i'll do that
thanks once again
James

[jameshuelin]

Hello once again,
I'm sure using up all my questions, but this one's fairly important.
To do with roadworthy
my car has no seatbelts, but technically has 11 seat positions, it has been unregistered since 2006, at that time i t was registered with 3 seats.
Is there any chance i can register it with 11 seats, and also with no canopy or door tops? (just windscreen) manufacture 10-68
i'm really stumped on this one and is quite a large problem.
cheers once again :p
James

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Hi guys
<snip>
Uncleho
do you know where i might find the haynes workshop manual? i have the original owners manual up in cairns but i suspect it will not be of great use.
also do you think it will matter much with the series 3 rims? it has 2 series IIA rims 2 series III rims and t more IIA rims spare.
<snip>
JamesJames

I'm assuming when you suggest SIII rims and SIIa rims you are talking about the late SIII rims with the raised band around the PCD?

So long as the rims are the same width and offset, it makes no difference.

On the reference manuals, the Haynes books are merely summaries of the OEM manuals with a few added images. I prefer the real thing which are available from the bay or on CD from Dave's interesting things on this site.

[jameshuelin]

OK
that''ll be great
cheers
James

[jameshuelin]

Hi all
Had a fantastic day yesterday!
i went to buy a new starter armature and brushes form Kevin Baker in Maleny,
took me and my uncle the rest of the morning to rebuild the starter :p.
whacked it in the car, put in a battery, and Vroom!
very surprisingly on the first start after about 8 seconds of quite decent starting power the engine kicked into life! (Kevin also informed me my starter is a (still a lucas but M3) replacement from a 74 car, not land rover but a more powerful starter :D) so anyway, even more surprisingly, i got a full clutch and all gears including overdrive work fantastically! (even brakes too) So i spent about an hour tooling around the countryside, checking the locking hubs, hi lo range 4x4 etc, and all fine.

The next thing on the list, is to first, see whether i need to replace the head gasket as there is air bubbling up into the radiator. so i'll do a compression test, next time, also try and get one of the tools you can stick on the radiator to measure exhaust fumes in the cooling system.

And also, the breather is breathing smoke, not alot, but i MAY (not sure yet) so if the head gasket needs replacing i'll check the rings and bores at the same time.

Another important thing, can the sump be dropped without removing the engine?

Also do 2.25 petrol blocks have a tendency to get elliptical bores? or is it more likely the rings just need replacing?

Anyway, that's it for now :D
cheers
James
P.S.
How much would i expect to pay for a full ring set for the motor?

[chazza]

Good to hear about your success James!

Try these addresses for parts and prices,

Cheers Charlie

Paddock Spares - Land Rover, Range Rover Parts & Accessories - Discovery, Defender and Freelander (http://www.paddockspares.com/)
L. R. Series - specialists in land rover, land rover series and range rover - gearbox, axle, transmission parts, spares and major units (http://www.lrseries.com/)
Discovery 89-94 - Island 4x4 - Specialists in Land Rover and Range Rover Parts and accessories for all models. UK and worldwide mail order. (http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/-c-34.html)
John Craddock Ltd - Specialists in Land Rover Parts and Spares (http://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/)
Land Rover parts - Home (http://www.roverparts.com.au/)
British Four Wheel Drive - Land Rover & Range Rover Parts Specialist :: DISCOVERY SERIES 1 (http://www.british4wd.com/xcart/home.php?cat=2)
Karcraft Australia (http://www.karcraft.com.au/catalogue/parts.php?action=list&make=25&prod=12&part=ETC+6660&sort=1&start=1&search=Search)
P.A. Blanchard & Co. : Ex Military Landrover Specialists, Trailers, Ex MOD Spares, Surplus Stores & Equipment (http://www.pablanchard.co.uk/default.asp)

[jameshuelin]

Hi mate
Thanks very much for the info!
once i figure out what the engine needs i'll go searching! :D
so would anyone know what i should be expecting in an old 2.25 petrol?
i.e. heavily worn bores, worn valve guides and seats?
or is it more likely if the engine is blowing smoke it's just rings?
cheers again
James
P.S.
sorry i couldnt get any photos over the weekend, had no camera, luckily not too much has changed appearance wise.

[UncleHo]

G'day Jameshuelin :)

That motor fuming from the breather sounds like rings,and the bubbles in the radiator would indicate a head gasket,should show by shorting out individual plug leads,if the motor falters when the lead is shorted that bore is OK, if it doesn't falter as much it is down on compression,the usual culprit is 2 &3 they blow between, if you are removing the head get it checked for warps,and surface skimmed to true it up, also run a straightedge over the block, across and lengthwise,as if a motor has been cooked to just short of seized they will warp the block as well, been there done that :(:( the piston size will be marked on the top STD,020,040 rings are still available, mine when I bought it in 86 fumed badly but nothing out the back, pulled the head,and sump,4 pistons 32 pieces of ring :eek: and I had driven it home at 80kph running smoothly just fuming a lot.


cheers

[jameshuelin]

Hi UncleHo
so as i most likely will be taking the head off, would it be likely i would also need to get the head re sleeved and seated? (how could i tell) and how bad were your bores when you took the head off, what did you do to them?
thanks once again !
JAmes

[UncleHo]

G'day Jameshuelin :)

When I got mine it's speedo read 86,3?? miles, when I took the head off,the bore was oval (it had been flogged by ????? army drivers:() the pistons were +020 so I did a total rebuild on it,strip, chemi clean,rebore,pistons & rings,crankshaft grind, new main,new big ends,all new seals, timing chain and gears,head trued up, new valve guides and valves,all new brass welsh plugs,basically I jacked up the engine number and rebuilt everything else,and then at 56,000 miles,it snapped a conrod bolthead off on the way to a friend's funeral :( so I rebuilt my other spare motor, same thing, it has now done 146,800+ miles and still going well,timing chain is getting a little rattley now though ;) my vehicle has done about 250,000miles now since 7/1992.

When you mention about getting the head re-sleeved I assume that you are talking about the valves and valve guides, the valve guides are replacable they are bronze,and if you are going to do that I would suggest that you get hardened valve seats fitted (for use with unleaded) and get the valves seated in ;) you should also get the head trued (skimmed) to make sure it is totally flat and will seal well against the gasket/block.


cheers

[jameshuelin]

Hi Uncleho
well that's very useful :D
so i guess i'll get the head off next time, and get it crack tested and faced, and then (as i assume i cannot do hardenet valve seats on my own see if that needs doing.
and then check out the bore for wear do rings etc.
thanks once again for all the help
cheers
James

[UncleHo]

G'day Jameshuelin :)

No worries my friend:) I get all my engine work done by "Auster Engine Centre" at Auster St Caboolture, just up from the transport dept,have been dealing wth them for 15+ years,they used to do our bus diesel motors when the boss had the fleet of school buses.


cheers

[jameshuelin]

ok thanks very much
i'll put that on the list of contacts :D

[numpty]

Another vote for Auster from me too. And you only need to fit hardened exhaust valve seats.

[jameshuelin]

Hi all,
Just got back up to the coast this morning and have been preparing some stuff for painting.
I was just wondering what the colour code was for the standard olive drab ex army land rovers?
Will have some photos up about this weeks progress later in the week
Cheers
James

[Mick-Kelly]

Find a supplier of protec paints local to you and ask for olive drab. They supply the ADF. Spray cans are pretty crappy though and clog easily.

[jameshuelin]

Hi mate,
i'm in eumundi, and i have access to a spray gun, if i cannot find a protec shop, would there be a code i can take to the man, and get a can mixed?
cheers
James

[peterg1001]

From the REMLR pages:

"The modern version of this paint is still available from Protec. It's called camouflage green, it is an enamel paint and its stock number is 342-1166. It is a more modern paint than the original, but is easy to paint with and reproduces the correct colour."

If you search this site for "olive drab" or "paint colour" you'll find a number of threads, some of them acrimonious, on this topic.

Peter

[jameshuelin]

Another day of work today,
pretty much all wiring today, there's alot of it to do!
so far i have all indicators, rear lights, no fronts, or side, or dash lights.
The bloke has put a heap of relays around the car, i would guess the failure of these is causing the problem.
One thing i'm unhappy about is the lack of a brake light switch.
am i correct in saying it should be in the footwell just above the brake pedal?
i assume that all land rovers had this?
cheers
James

Peter, thanks for the info mate

[peterg1001]

The brake system setup changed significantly over the years.

You will most likely find the brake light switch as a hydraulically operated switch screwed into a brass fitting bolted to the chassis directly beneath the brake pedal box.

Later models (with servo assist) had a mechanical switch on top of the brake pedal box.

Peter.

[jameshuelin]

oh right,
that makes sense, i did see a switch looking peice on the brake line
thanks again
James

[Lotz-A-Landies]

From the REMLR pages:

"The modern version of this paint is still available from Protec. It's called camouflage green, it is an enamel paint and its stock number is 342-1166. It is a more modern paint than the original, but is easy to paint with and reproduces the correct colour."

If you search this site for "olive drab" or "paint colour" you'll find a number of threads, some of them acrimonious, on this topic.

PeterPeter that is the question isn't it! :)

I've been using Protec on my No.5 and recently re-sprayed an SIIa FFT to have it "parade condition" for the 50th Anniversary of the 1 Sigs Regiment. For a rush job on a wet and windy day painting outside, I think we did a great job. However it seems that the Protec Camouflage Green is actually a current AusCam colour not the original re-paint colour of the SIIa era. In fact Protec at Minto NSW, suggest the local Holsworthy and Moorebank barracks are some of their largest volume customers.

Only last week a mate and ex-RAEME mech (some of you will know) bought some pre-mixed camouflage green enamel in 20 litre drums from Wattyl Industrial paints. While I have been suggesting he use Protech, he suggests that it was not the colour he used when at 2 Base Workshops etc. On examining the resulting colour on his Mk 3 Inter, I have to agree the colour is different to the Protech colour, the Wattyl tending to green where the Protech tending to yellow.

To confuse matters more, on Sunday I picked up the remains of an SIII FFR tub and the multiple layers of olive green were each different. The original Land Rover lustreless colour was something in-between the Wattyl Camo Green and the NATO green of UK Land Rovers.

Go figure! :confused:

I guess anyone's decision is to choose a colour based upon availability and the other vehicles your vehicle/s will be on parade with. Then go out and get that one and stick to it each time you re-paint.

Diana

[korg20000bc]

When stripping the paint off my 2a GS there was about 6-7 slightly different OD greens. Some variation between vehicles is, in my opinion, completely acceptable and reflective of military procedures and requirements.

[jameshuelin]

seems like there are many landies out there with more than 5 colours of paint on the panels :p. I've decided i don't think i'll paint until the final stage of the project, at the moment i'm far too busy working on the electricals :D.
although today i managed to get all lights on the car working, except the number plate light and dash lights. (wiring in the engine bay is still an absolute mess) i will have to wait until all wiring is complete to start stripping excess.
Thanks once again for the paint advice, it's an interesting debate.
cheers
James

[armyjeep52]

Good day James
Kustom Paints at Woombye are Protec agents.If you read the Protec blurb they will match any colour ever made,they can't but our local fellow in Toowoomba takes it as a challenge to get the shade correct.I asked him about olive drab and he said he mixes quite a lot of it and it isn't a problem.He mixed gloss olive drab for my 1970 International C1500 and it is almost a perfect match.
Cheers Ken

[jameshuelin]

righto
well toowoomba isn't too far away, so that might do the trick.
cheers for that
James

[jameshuelin]

Hi all,
I havent been anywhere near the landie since end of semester one, as semester 2 exams will be over in 2 weeks i'll be spending the following weeks afterward on the land rover hopefully getting it registered to take to stradbroke in december.

Things for roadworthy:
prop shaft boots
engine and gearbox mounts
frond indicator lenses
a little surface rust proofing
take care of smoking oil breather
change all oils and fluids
minor electrics (i.e. horn)

Things that have already been done:
hub seals
handbrake
adjust all brake shoes
all lights

I plan on registering the car without the doortops and without the canvas and hoodbows, im assuming this is perfectly legal?

The only problem i can forsee at present is i cant figure out how to reroute the smoking oil breather. I'm aware the engine will need new rings sometime soon but i don't wish to do them at this time :P
does anyone know how to reroute the oil breather or where it is taken to?
I have seen the rocker cover breather simply having a line from the top of it going to the intake, but then the breather off the side of the engine is blocked off and a peice of tubing is run somewhere else?

what is the most effective way of doing this?
and what ways can it be done?

I'm afraid that the oil may get built up somewhere or even worse too much pressure build up in the system.

Also, any hints on what else i should be checking for roadworthy would be great

cheers

James

[Newbs-IIA]

Good work mate on getting the old girl back on the road, I have been there and done that recently too.

It is totally legal to register you car with no roof, seatbelts, wipers or reverse lights in QLD (well it was last year when I got my 1970 SIIA Ex Mill done). This is because thats how they came from factory :D

With the smokey PCV pipe, just get a longer piece of hose and feed it into the chassis rail. Not only will it direct the smoke away but it adds to the rust protection of your chassis :cool: The proper option is like you said is to reintroduce the PCV fumes in the intake manifold somewhere to be burnt in the engine.

How did you go with the seating arrangement? My IIA also had a seating cap of 11 on the compliance however when it was decommisioned a QLD 'Blue Plate' (mod plate) was attached changing the seating cap the 3 as the army kept the rear seats... the buggers

The only other big thing I can think of for RWC which you havent listed is suspension bushes and uni joints

Best of luck mate, can't wait to see a picture :D

[jameshuelin]

Hi Newbs

Thanks very much for the reply,
I will get some photos when i head up hopefully on Wednesday.
I like the idea of the diverting the smoke to the chassis, very clever :D.
The car has four bench seats across the back, but i'll need to make seat bases for them also, probably just a block of foam on a wooden template with canvas stapled around and onto the wood. I'm hoping i'll be able to get her registered with 11 seats. I'm banking on the it's how it came from the factory argument :D.

But anyway, my largest concern at the moment is if i'll get it registered in time for a Fraser trip a mate is planning for the start of december!

Hopefully get some photos up soon.

Cheers
James

[jameshuelin]

Hi all
Photos from wednesday and yesterday.
Replaced the prop shaft boots, removed leaking radiator, replaced indicator lenses.
The radiator had the thermo fan bolted onto it and the bolts have corroded with the brass or copper core of the radiator, i believe th radiator is a series three one. As only a few cores have been affected would it be better to solder the affected cores or buy a new S3 radiator?
As this radiator is still in quite good condition i am reluctant to turf it.

Below are photos of the radiator front and back also the thermo fan:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/11/1028.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/11/1029.jpg
The thermo fan still works :D
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/11/1030.jpg

Also, some photos of the prop shaft boots:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/11/1031.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/11/1032.jpg

I also have some questions about my type of oil cooler, i'm not sure if it's even a land rover oil cooler, thoughts?
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/11/1033.jpg

Here is the rego sticker from the cars last registration, could anyone figure out what the different numbers and codes are for?
i think i can decipher it seats 3 and the rego number is 974 fut
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/11/1034.jpg

Just though i'd throw one in of both my cars :D
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/11/1035.jpg

Cheers
James

[NiteMare]

your oil cooler looks very similar to ones used on the old suzuki gsxr 750h but not quite...

i'd say it's a previous owners modification

[chazza]

your oil cooler looks very similar to ones used on the old suzuki gsxr 750h but not quite...

i'd say it's a previous owners modification

Not necessarily. ;)

Some of the 2A GS had oil coolers fitted, I remember seeing them in the early '80's when I was in the army - they were first oil coolers I had ever seen :)

Cheers Charlie

[NiteMare]

i possess a 1970/71 88" CKD ex-military from New Zealand (yes here in England) that "had" the cut guards as per the thread starters pictures, it's still got it's 2.25 petrol engine and original oil cooler and that looks nothing like the cooler posted

the original fitment i believe would have been a tube that zig zagged back and forth in front of the radiator with wires looped all over it (making it look like a folded hedgehog sortof) which is what my 88" carries and is what i've seen on all the British mil' motors that i've looked at

sorry, no picture of the cooler :(

[jameshuelin]

Howdy,
I agree with nitemare,
on closer inspection, my oil cooler seems very aftermarket, and i think i have seen an orig. IIa oil cooler and it was quite different.

An update on the car,
I am going for a roadworthy tomorrow morning, hopefully of course passing i will take some photos and post them up over the next few days.

Things done to the car
-replaced water pump
-replaced coil
-replaced radiator
-ALOT of wiring :P
-rust inhibiting and painting
-upholstery
-degreasing
-steering damper and all shockies
-wiper motor

I have been working with my brother on the landie for the past week or so, we have invested alot of time and a fair bit of money at british offroad :P but we are very pleaed with our final product. Also the mass of spares have come in handy many times for replacing broken parts etc.

I have one question to do with series 3 wiper motors, we replaced our broken IIa motor with a sIII motor, although we are not sure of the park and brake lines and where to connect them from the motor, so i was wondering if anyone knew how to describe the circuit (they have 2 speeds) or better yet a good diagram.

Anyway, hopefully i will have some photos soon, I will also be taking it to fraser next tuesday with a few mates and am very much looking forward to that :D.

Sorry about the gap in progress although i have been working for a solid 8-7pm regime for 7 days now :P

cheers
James

[Sideroad]

Just a quick qn, how did you go with the rego and road worthy regarding the rear bench seats?
Mine is a 2a 68 109 and I am looking to put the bench seats back in and take it from the current 3 seat to 7 seat. It originally had rear bench seats but has been a 3 seater for many years. It has no mod plate regarding seating capacity though. I have just rego-ed it and it currently is a 3 seat ute. I also run with out door tops or roof.

[jameshuelin]

Hi Sideroad
Yes i got her registered :D
Registered with 7 seats, was going to registered with all 11 seats but insurance was a little steep.
Also has no roof and doortops but with a rollbar behind the 3 front seats, as well as having no seatbelts.
No mod plates required.
I was very glad we got the roadworthy, we went to fraser the following week, ill try to find some photos.
Also, next job is piston rings, got a LOT of blowby.
Cheers
James