Electric Land Rover Series IIA

[indybike]

Hi All,
I'm restoring a SWB IIA I purchased in bits and pieces (I like to call it kit form). I have sold the petrol engine and plan to install a DC electric motor like this vehicle EVParts, Your One Stop Online Solution for All Your Electric Vehicle Needs (http://www.evparts.com/article_zoom.php?ARTICLESTAG=roverFaceOff) there is some video here also YouTube- LR Challenge part 1
I've stripped the chassis and replaced the rusted forward cross members as well as replacing the solid rear cross member (in the photo) with an original item. I'm going to paint the chassis with KBS rustseal
KBS RustSeal - Stop Rust - Like POR-15 - Comes in Colours (http://www.kbs-coatings.com.au/Rust-Sealer_c_7-1-0.html)
I would like to fit a rear diff lock and stronger axles because the new electric motor has a bit more grunt than the standard petrol motor. I've been searching the threads and haven't been able to find much info on a rear diff lock and axles that are tougher than the standard 10 spline. I live in Brisbane so any local knowledge on these items is much appreciated.
Ian

[WhiteD3]

Watching with interest:)

[akelly]

cool project!

There's good info in this thread http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-3/63203-series-3s-aftermarket-diff-lockers.html

Although its in the S3 section its all applicable. I've been thinking about a locker for mine and found heaps of great info using the search function.

Will you be able to keep the transfer case and 4x4? The elec vehicles I've seen on telly seem to have no gearbox - is that right?

cheers,

Adam

[indybike]

Hi Adam thanks for the help. I'll check the s3 threads.
I'll be keeping the gearbox and clutch and running the vehicle as a 4x4. Some electric vehicles run without a gearbox and some don't. The reality is that most of the time you take off and drive around in the one gear. You don't really have to have a clutch as when the vehicle stops so does the motor. It comes down what you want to use the vehicle for. There are a heap of electric vehicles at this link. EV Photo Album: Our Electric Cars on the Web (http://www.evalbum.com/)
Ian

[Sideroad]

I have had the same idea/dream but with a S1, but no $ spare to fund it. Also am planing a smaller elec build, a scooter/sidecar out fit for around town for my wife.
Have a look at
Rover Tracks - Land Rover Extreme Driveline Specialists (http://www.rovertracks.com/tech/salisbury.html)
I was quoted $600 US.
I would love to see more of your plans and any pics.
Can't wait to see more.

[peterg1001]

I would think twice before using KBS/POR15. There's a mile of instructions come with the products, and most of them are about surface preparation. The problem is that POR15 doesn't adhere well to a surface.

I used POR15 on my chassis (Stripping the original vehicle down to a rolling chassis with engine/gearbox (http://greenacre.biz/landrover/929_fixchassis/929_fixchassis.htm)) and have regretted it ever since. The damn stuff peels off in layers as soon as you look at it - and that's after talking endlessly to the the guy at PPC (I forget his name - the South African bloke).

It's not that hard either - I used it on the wheels, and it won't even sustain minor dings.

I would use Killrust if I did it again. Sandblast the chassis, one coat of etch primer, one coat of red oxide, then two coats of enamel.

Peter

[lro11]

I have a rear diff that may suit and I am local to you.

[Fifth Columnist]

I did an article (Roverphile) in Sept or Oct 2000 issue of LRO about the original factory 'Stealth Rover' proto. May give you some ideas.
Vehicle is in the Dunsfold Collection.

[indybike]

I would think twice before using KBS/POR15. There's a mile of instructions come with the products, and most of them are about surface preparation. The problem is that POR15 doesn't adhere well to a surface.


Peter
I think we are talking two different products KBS rustseal is not the same as POR15. At least the bloke in the videos doesn't make it look too hard :) Videos - Demonstrating How To Use KBS Coatings - Stop Rust (http://www.kbs-coatings.com.au/KBS-Instructional-Videos_ep_76-1.html)
The surface prep actually isn't that involved as I am already stripping the chassis to the bare metal due to a very bad case of the wrong paint used. I'll let you know how I go.
Ian

[indybike]

I did an article (Roverphile) in Sept or Oct 2000 issue of LRO about the original factory 'Stealth Rover' proto. May give you some ideas.
Vehicle is in the Dunsfold Collection.

Thanks for the info but at the risk of sounding stupid, where can I find the article? Which vehicle is it in the Dunsfold collection?
Regards
Ian

[Outlaw]

Brilliant news Ian... have trawled that EV website a few times and watched the youtube videos many times over the last year or so. Will be watching with interest :)

Laurie any chance you have a PDF of the article?

[Sideroad]

I agree, that por15 stuff is so bloody hard to get it all off once it does start peeling off. (and it will) I don't think it is UV stable as I have a chassis that seemed ok (some peeling) till I stripped the body off and 1 month later all is coming off.



I would think twice before using KBS/POR15. There's a mile of instructions come with the products, and most of them are about surface preparation. The problem is that POR15 doesn't adhere well to a surface.

I used POR15 on my chassis (Stripping the original vehicle down to a rolling chassis with engine/gearbox (http://greenacre.biz/landrover/929_fixchassis/929_fixchassis.htm)) and have regretted it ever since. The damn stuff peels off in layers as soon as you look at it - and that's after talking endlessly to the the guy at PPC (I forget his name - the South African bloke).

It's not that hard either - I used it on the wheels, and it won't even sustain minor dings.

I would use Killrust if I did it again. Sandblast the chassis, one coat of etch primer, one coat of red oxide, then two coats of enamel.

Peter

[peterg1001]

Peter
I think we are talking two different products KBS rustseal is not the same as POR15. At least the bloke in the videos doesn't make it look too hard :) Videos - Demonstrating How To Use KBS Coatings - Stop Rust (http://www.kbs-coatings.com.au/KBS-Instructional-Videos_ep_76-1.html)
The surface prep actually isn't that involved as I am already stripping the chassis to the bare metal due to a very bad case of the wrong paint used. I'll let you know how I go.
Ian

I've used both, and I can't tell the difference. I suspect two different companies are importing the same product and repackaging for their own distribution.

Interesting to see sideroad's comments.

By all means let us know how you go.

Peter

[Wolfman_TWP]

I don't think it is UV stable as I have a chassis that seemed ok (some peeling) till I stripped the body off and 1 month later all is coming off.
It's not, it requires a UV top coat. But without it, it just goes a dull black/grey colour. Preparation is the important step, as this paint is a chemical adhering paint. (And most important of all, MUST be stirred not shaken. As it won't bond to the metal and rust if you shake it, as it will bubble).

I have done the front radiator mount with POR15, and it came up very nicely.

Wolf

[ashhhhh]

Ive used POR15 on all my cars and bikes, never had a problem with it.

"Its not that hard either" is not something ive ever heard said about POR15!

The trick is to have a ROUGH bare metal or rust converted surface, sandblasted is ideal.
Wire brushed surfaces will NOT work.
Make sure you topcoat it while the POR is slightly tacky, it will never stick otherwise.

Ive used the KBS stuff too and exactly the same rules apply.