D4 Battery Photos

[Disco4SE]

Hi all, I finally have some photos of my second battery.
Below is with the plastic cover on
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=24503&stc=1&d=1271230281
Photo of battery in place
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=24504&stc=1&d=1271230435
Another angle
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=24505&stc=1&d=1271230564
New position for horn
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=24506&stc=1&d=1271230693
The battery is an Optima. Notice the terminal points on the side as well as the top.
Hope this helps others.

[Dorko]

That looks clean and great... what did that cost to move the junk out of the box and put the battery there? Is this also the same kit you shown me before?

Dorko

[stig0000]

were did you put the modules and whats the go with warranty;)

[Disco4SE]

Dorko, I'll find out the cost tomorrow and get back. When I had the battery done, I had a heap of other things done as well and received the one bill.
Everthing apart from the horn remains under the plastic cover. It is the same kit but different battery.
Stig0000, I am told by my landrover dealer that my warranty is not effected because all the important stuff is still protected.

[drivesafe]

Hi Disco4SE, what is the size ( amp hours ) of the battery?

[Disco4SE]

Hi Drivesafe, the new one is 55 Amp hour. The old one (which turned out to be a dud) was 80 Amp hour. However, the new one is supposed to be far superior. My auto elec tells me that it should run my fridge for 2 days without charging it.

[ADMIRAL]

Hi Drivesafe, the new one is 55 Amp hour. The old one (which turned out to be a dud) was 80 Amp hour. However, the new one is supposed to be far superior. My auto elec tells me that it should run my fridge for 2 days without charging it.
Hi Disco4SE,

Do you have the actual product number of the battery ?

[Disco4SE]

Hi Admiral, It is an Optima Yellow Top.
Part No 8014-045
Model No D34/78
Cheers, Craig

[xoa]

:)Thanks for the great shots. I was told by one converter that he puts the extra battery on opposite side in gap up front as he does for Disco 3. (not in cover) Any comment on that? Look forward to knowing who did this for you and cost approx ( About $850 quoted by my guy)

[drivesafe]

Thanks Disco4SE, a better battery to get is the Optima D34, there is no additional number after the 34.

This battery is also a 55Ah battery and fits exactly the same but only has terminals on the top.

This battery can be perfectly secured using the genuine Land Rover battery Bracket and bolts and there is plenty of room to use conventional battery terminal clamps to connect the cable to the battery.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/07/1236.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/07/1235.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/920.jpg

[trobbo]

Is it necessary to fit a battery tray - I have seen a few floating around for the D3 and I didn't think one was needed and hence people are making money from accessories that are superfluous :eek:

[gghaggis]

I fitted my Deka Intimidator (an AGM 55AH) second battery from the D3 to the RRS last weekend. I used the 'second' battery compartment and moved the existing modules (but they're all still under the plastic cover). I ditched the large plastic cover for the TCM ( it's completely open at the bottom, so not sealed) and used an instrument environment-protection bag that I had (originally available from Radio Spares) to seal it. I had to dremel out the small plastic fins on the front bottom of the compartment, but after that the battery fitted, terminals and all.

The original Traxide kit was then wired in as per the D3. The only real problem is that the RRS doesn't have as much room under the plastic door-sill covers and the thickness of the wiring loom makes refitting them rather difficult.

On the D3, this setup allowed me to run the Waeco 40L car fridge for at least 12hrs at a time (didn't have the opportunity to let it run further without starting the engine).

Cheers,

Gordon

[sniegy]

Is it necessary to fit a battery tray - I have seen a few floating around for the D3 and I didn't think one was needed and hence people are making money from accessories that are superfluous :eek:
Trobbo,
If you intend to fit the battery in front of the OEM existing one, then yes you will need a "Battery Tray". But as said you will also have to make some type of enclosure as the heat will kill the battery.:(

If you intend to fit the battery in the Brake booster box on the drivers side, then no, as you can secure the battery (& a perfect fit using the LR factory bracket & bolts is the D34 Optima) using the brackets & threaded holes already there.:)
If u have a D4 then some moving of componentry is required. Also i think u have to dremel down a small section in the front of the Brake booster box.

Cheers

[Disco4SE]

Hi Guys, I have some pricing for you for the second battery to my D4.
The D34 Optima battery was $363.64.
The balance was $723.00 which was for the following: -
Duel Battery Isonlator Redarc
Circuit protection, fuses holders etc
Cable & insulation
Marine socket
Labour 4-6 hours
They included fuses for my DVD players as well.
I have a photo of the redarc set up
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=24540&stc=1&d=1271308541
Not a cheap excercise, but you only do it once

Cheers

[Duck's Guts]

I've now completed this to my D4.

Thanks to Disco4SE, drivesafe and others for the photos & info in this and other threads related to this exercise.

Used an Optima D34 battery. Thanks to drivesafe for putting me onto the cheapest supplier I could find: Batteries Direct. They have a web site. Delivered overnight to my door.
As an aside: reading the documentation that came with the D34, it mentions that the side terminals on a D34/78 shall only be used for starting/cranking applications and NOT for deep cycle. The top terminals canbe used for both applications. It doesn't say why!?!

Used a Traxide D3 full power kit. Great bit of gear & the service/response/help from drivesafe was terrific. Thanks Tim. Highly recommended.

Anyways, I needed to get that off my chest as I am absolutely chuffed with the result - cold beer a certainty on my camping trips!

Thanks & cheers,
Marc...

[Disco4SE]

I've now completed this to my D4.

Thanks to Disco4SE, drivesafe and others for the photos & info in this and other threads related to this exercise.

Used an Optima D34 battery. Thanks to drivesafe for putting me onto the cheapest supplier I could find: Batteries Direct. They have a web site. Delivered overnight to my door.
As an aside: reading the documentation that came with the D34, it mentions that the side terminals on a D34/78 shall only be used for starting/cranking applications and NOT for deep cycle. The top terminals canbe used for both applications. It doesn't say why!?!

Used a Traxide D3 full power kit. Great bit of gear & the service/response/help from drivesafe was terrific. Thanks Tim. Highly recommended.

Anyways, I needed to get that off my chest as I am absolutely chuffed with the result - cold beer a certainty on my camping trips!

Thanks & cheers,
Marc...
Hi Marc, glad you are happy with your set up. As mentioned, it does cost a few $ to set up, but well worth it. I have the kids DVD players connected to the second battery as well. They can leave them on and I dont have to worry about the main battery........plus no screams from the back seat when I turn the car off.
Cheers, Craig

[Jesse B]

I have recently had the same job done by a well-recommended auto electrician here in Albany: Optima D34, full Traxide kit, standard LR clamp, moving various bits around (basically as described by Craig). All worked fine as far as I can tell. I too had other work done at the same time (fitted a GME 3340) so again a bit hard to work out cost, but best I can see is similar to above.

I'm interested in the use of the Redarc isolator - at this point I've not fitted one (due to info from sparky that it should not be required so long as all accessories were running off second battery), but this has niggled at me ever since. Taking the bus in this week to get an Anderson plug fitted and a couple of extra plugs down the back, and am wondering about adding an isolator to the mix? I'll freely admit to being a complete dinosaur with electrical stuff...

[penglish]

Hi Everyone,

This is my first post and I am new to a lot of this stuff so I’m sorry if I’m asking stupid questions!

I like many others am trying to fit a second battery into a Disco 4, and it seem like the best place is in the aux battery tray. If I can get the space in for the battery I plan on fitting the Traxide Disco 3 kit. I’m not really prepared to move the electronics around myself as I’ll probably stuff something up. I’ve rang a couple of Land Rover dealers in Melbourne and they say it can’t be done and they aren’t prepared to help me fit the battery in. The best answer I could get was from Melbourne City Land Rover who said to put the battery into the boot compartment where the towbar goes.

The question is does anyone know of anyone in Melbourne who can clear the aux battery tray for me without it affecting the car warranty?

Peter

[Disco4SE]

Hi Everyone,

This is my first post and I am new to a lot of this stuff so I’m sorry if I’m asking stupid questions!

I like many others am trying to fit a second battery into a Disco 4, and it seem like the best place is in the aux battery tray. If I can get the space in for the battery I plan on fitting the Traxide Disco 3 kit. I’m not really prepared to move the electronics around myself as I’ll probably stuff something up. I’ve rang a couple of Land Rover dealers in Melbourne and they say it can’t be done and they aren’t prepared to help me fit the battery in. The best answer I could get was from Melbourne City Land Rover who said to put the battery into the boot compartment where the towbar goes.

The question is does anyone know of anyone in Melbourne who can clear the aux battery tray for me without it affecting the car warranty?

Peter
Hi Peter,
The guys that did mine are in Rosebud.
If you want to know more, please PM me.
Cheers, Craig

[drivesafe]

I’m with Sniegy about the auxiliary battery being mounted in front of the cranking battery, but I have had a fair bit of feedback from different people who have mounted the battery there and so far they have had no problems.

While this is way to soon to see there is going to be a problem, a number of people have gone as far as measuring the temps and they seem to be not much higher than normal so I’m about to experiment with my D4 ( my wife’s ) and I’ll see what I come up with.

The point is, if you're plan to operate a winch using two batteries, this would be a perfect set up location for the second battery.

[CSBrisie]

Excuse my ignorance - but would there really be much difference in temperature between in front of the existing battery and tucked away in the spare battery box? Are we talking 20 degrees difference? 10? 5? I understand the whole issue is that "exposed" under the bonnet the battery isnt supposed to last as long - I wouldnt have thought a bit of black LR plastic (spare battery box) would have made that much of a difference......?. Could I even be so bold as to wonder if the heat is retained inside the spare battery box - versus air running over the one exposed in the bay...the latter might be better?

I'm just a lowly old bean counter so I really should shut up....!! :p

I guess eventually someone will end up putting a thermometer in each spot and telling us ..... ;)

[penglish]

Thanks for the replies. I'm not planning on using a winch, I'd just like something for a fridge. I figured the aux tray would be best but either way I need to find someone to help me to the modifications. Once I've got the place for the battery sorted out I plan to fit drivesafes disco 3 kit.

Thanks

Peter

[sean c]

Peter,
Graeme posted how to do it at following link.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/102180-clearing-d4-aux-battery-tray.html
I followed his instructions and cleared the battery box out before fitting an Optima 35 and Traxide SC80 in this compartment.
Clearing the battery box is really quite simple. You unplug the two components that need moving and plug them back in when they have been relocated. Plenty of length in the looms.
Don't see how warranty could be denied unless this has contributed to premature failure. These items were not located inside the battery box on the D3.
I used all the parts mentioned by Graeme plus the transfer case cover mounting bracket to mount the glow plug ecu and the Traxide circuit breaker box. Used an angle grinder to modify the brackets to hold these components. No new bits required. All genuine Land Rover.
If you are not confident to do this yourself I suggest you print off Greame's post and take it to an auto electrician.
cheers,
Sean

[penglish]

Hi Sean, Thanks for that, I'd seen the post and that was the main reason for asking the question. I had a look at the bits under the bonnet and wasnt really confident I could do it myself. Sorry I should say do it properly myself. Anyway I like your idea, and I think if anyone doesn’t know of an auto electrician in Melbourne who knows Discos, I’ll just take the photos to someone local and try my luck. What really annoys me is when you ring Land Rover, they just play dumb and say it can’t be done!

Peter

[ADMIRAL]

Excuse my ignorance - but would there really be much difference in temperature between in front of the existing battery and tucked away in the spare battery box? Are we talking 20 degrees difference? 10? 5? I understand the whole issue is that "exposed" under the bonnet the battery isnt supposed to last as long - I wouldnt have thought a bit of black LR plastic (spare battery box) would have made that much of a difference......?. Could I even be so bold as to wonder if the heat is retained inside the spare battery box - versus air running over the one exposed in the bay...the latter might be better?

I'm just a lowly old bean counter so I really should shut up....!! :p

I guess eventually someone will end up putting a thermometer in each spot and telling us ..... ;)
I happen to agree, and my second battery is located in front of the main, on the lh side of the engine bay. I have used a kit provided by Traxide, and so far everything is working fine. I came to the decision to use this location, as I didn't want to rip modules out of their new location. I also have installed and successfully used dual Battery setups on Patrols, where the second battery is located a hand span from the turbo. I have no doubt the life of the battery is reduced, but I was averaging 3-4 years out of a wet cell. I can live with that.

[Graeme]

On only a warmish day, my AGM mounted in front of the main battery got too hot for me to hold my hand on the side of it and thus I thought that the battery would not last very long, given the reports of AGMs not liking engine-bay heat. A flooded wet cell may last longer and be cheaper to replace too.

[drivesafe]

On only a warmish day, my AGM mounted in front of the main battery got too hot for me to hold my hand on the side of it

Interesting, and that’s what I have suspected would be the case, based on what happens to the second battery in a D2 when it is mounted on the firewall.

This is an untested opinion, if your using an Optima AGM I think you will get a better life span BUT, you are still going to shorten it’s normal expected life span and the gain is an expensive one and graeme, your idea of the standard flooded wet cell is probably the cheapest option.

I am about to fit an Optima in this location to see just how hot it gets.

[Graeme]

I suspected the heat came from the top area of the radiator as I had a shield to prevent radiated heat from the engine itself. I wasn't prepared to test if the heat affected the battery's life.

[drivesafe]

Hi Graeme, did you by any chance test to see how hot your cranking battery was, at the same time?

[Graeme]

No I didn't check the cranking battery, so no comparison was done.

IIRC the engine ecu is located in the same box. Does its fan draw air from outside the engine bay?

[CSBrisie]

Photos of my Traxide set up. We ran the wiring for the system out of the drivers side rear cargo hatch (where the jack sits), and then attached it to a 75AH Thumper within ORS drawer system - when its in use; or if the drawer system is out we can attach straight to the Thumper - safely behind cargo barrier. ARB compressor goes in space in front of cranking battery under bonnet. Traxide SC80 in old 2nd battery space.

An alternative - albeit with Thumper - more expensive option.

Optima Yellow Top in battery box in the cargo space is a cheaper option too.


:D

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/10/126.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/10/127.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/10/128.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/10/129.jpg

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