Radiator choices

[Junosi]

I'm replacing every component in my cooling system, more for peace of mind than anything. My question is what radiator to put in it, nothing really wrong with my current one but as I'm doing everything else .... As far as I can see I've got 3 real choices


OEM radiator from UK = $380 landed
OEM radiator from Britcars in Melbourne = $480
Fabricated all aluminium from Aussie Desert Coolers = $750

Buying from UK drawbacks are possibly damage in transit and it would be problematic to return for repair or refund should something be wrong. If I buy from Britcars in Melb I know I'll have no problems. Which leaves the third option - the all aluminium one. I took my car in to Aussie Desert Coolers and talked with Norm the proprietor about it, he'd require my original rad for two days to model a new one on and he seemed sure aluminium was the way to go over a copper/bronze one.

Is an all aluminium custom made one worth the extra money ? Presumably it will be a superior radiator compared to the 'built to a budget' original ones.

Any input would be appreciated.

[p38arover]

OEM radiator from Britcars in Melbourne = $480.

OEM or Chinese copy?

I paid about the same for one which I'm sure is a copy - it has a label on top where "coolant" is spelled "coolent".

[Junosi]

I'm not sure. I visitied Graeme at Britcars - he gave me two prices - $644 and $480 which I thought he said was for genuine or oem, but not really sure.

[p38arover]

OEM = genuine

[Junosi]

Not sure Graeme was using OEM in that way. He gave me another price on viscous fan unit and quoted me for LR genuine 309, OEM 228 and knockoff 168. Might have to give him a call and see what his $480 radiator is exactly. Still have to decide whether to go down the Desert Cooler route though

[DT-P38]

As far as I understand the parts structure its like this:

OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) item is a part from the people/business who made the original and spare components for LandRover and is probably (but not definitley) 100% exactly the same as the LR item. Generally no guarantees or warranty support from LR although the OEM probably offers 'like' terms. Not that this is really a consideration for our well out of warranty vehicles!

Genuine is a genuine Landrover numbered item. Generally from the one and only OEM but sometimes consequent batches of spares can be sourced from a different company (say, if the original provider goes belly up). Full LR warrantee on both part and vehicle (again not that this bit is considerable with any of our 'oldish' P38's).

Knock off's could be made anywhere (generally China, but then again, what isn't these days?) and really a case of 'pot luck'. Unless someone like GRaeme (who has been around these things for years err, decades) has heard enough good reports to suggest having a go with it, I generally don't go there. In saying that, I have bought knock offs for my vehicles in the past but only for non-essential items & accessories like seat covers... probably wouldn't touch them for a cooling system going to north oz.

I'm no expert, but thats how its been explained to me in the past. Please let me know if I'm wrong or off the mark though!

As far as the value in the Aluminum unit, I would suggest the standard OEM item (probably from Graeme) would be more than good enough given your current standard one (and probably most of the rest of ours) has served for approx. 10-15 years. A new one will be a massive step up from that and should be good for around that period too, but without the wear and tear performance drops we are probably all suffering (just from them gunking up).

If you want peace of mind, I have a mate who has 15-20 years in the radiator/cooling industry with extensive knowledge and would be happy to ask him if you want to have a chat for advice or direction... he may even know the best value equation for your needs. PM me if you want and I'll give him a bell with your number.

Hoo-Roo, Dave and the 'pretty pig'

[Tombie]

OEM / LR will be fine...

Worked for the last 10 years :D

Only need a full custom if your going to change the operating parameters of the vehicle. Eg, 400bhp engine etc.. If its just a mildly tweaked stocker, go original.

Have the block power flushed, new coolant, thermostat, new hoses etc... I personally would shove a new Waterpump and Viscous fan hub whilst I was at it....
Then it should be good for another 10 years..

[Junosi]

Have the block power flushed, new coolant, thermostat, new hoses etc... I personally would shove a new Waterpump and Viscous fan hub whilst I was at it....

Hadn't thought about flushing the block, might be a good idea. I'm replacing all other components at the same time - viscous, pump, hoses, thermostat and rad.

[wayneg]

Hadn't thought about flushing the block, might be a good idea.
If you saw the state of my rad when opened you will see the need to flush the system / Block at regular intervals, the crap comes from the block so I will be flushing mine at least every 2 years with a coolant change.
Since my new rad has been fitted the Temp gauge sits just into the normal section when the car is moving, in heavy traffic it moves up a little. This is in the very hot weather in Perth in the recent months. Before the gauge was always at the mid point so the car is running much cooler now.

[Aussie]

12 months ago I put a new radiator in and new thermostat and changed all the hoses, best thing I ever did. Temp Gauge sits just under half way mark and never moves, even in 40+ degrees peak hour driving with the AC on full blast.

[Junosi]

That's why I'm doing this :) Hot summer days and city stop/start driving mine gets up to around the 2/3rds 3/4 mark - well away from the red still but nervously close. Also noticed couple weekends back when I was labouring up a goat track in 1st gear low with traction control coming on every few secs engine temp was climbing while I was nervously watching between it and the goat track.

My viscous fan never 'roars' either (as someone in another post said it should when first started or when hot) Mines more of a stifled yawn at most.

[DT-P38]

I reckon you are on the right track with your 'freshen up' plans... I don't mean to create alarm, but the behaviours you just described below are very similar to how mine was performing before it dropped a sleeve and needed the new short motor. I didn't see it as a sign and just figured it was how the breed responded to hotter days. On the occasion of the death I wasn't 'eagle eyeing' the gauges as usual and it went up into the red and cooked... just like that. Personally, I reckon the causal issues were the old and poorly functioning water pump, the general 'tired' condition of the cooling system and perhaps the thermostat which I have recently noticed causes the gauge to do a little up and down dance every few minutes in hotter running conditions.

Me thinks maybe I will take the new thermostat in for fitting and get a power flush while its there too!

[Aussie]

Me thinks maybe I will take the new thermostat in for fitting and get a power flush while its there too!

Do the thermostat yourself is a very easy job. Change the upper and lower hoses at the same time. The hardest part of the whole thing is bleeding the system too remove air locks when your refilling the coolant, the RAVE manual has a procedure for that also. It's a need to know job.

[Hoges]

Do the thermostat yourself is a very easy job. Change the upper and lower hoses at the same time. The hardest part of the whole thing is bleeding the system too remove air locks when your refilling the coolant, the RAVE manual has a procedure for that also. It's a need to know job.

The process is simplified by jacking the front wheels about 100mm above the level of the rears. (which is simple if you have a MARS on your EAS system :D;)

Pour coolant slowly into the top hose (which has been disconnected from the radiator). You'll get to the stage where you can see the overflow tank (cap removed) begin to fill. By this time almost all the air has been dispalced and risen to the top.

Reconnect the radiator hose and start the engine...let it idle at about 1500 rpm and ensure the bleed hose from the top of the radiator is feeding freely into the overflow. Add a little more coolant to the overflow tank, if necessary, to bring the level up to the middle.

when the engine reaches operating temperature and the flow indicates the thermostat is open, slow the idle, check for bubbles in the overflow tank...these should have subsided, replace the cap and switch off. Coolant will be drawn back into the system from the overflow tank as the engine cools. top it up as needed to the "middle" when cold.

Here endeth the lesson:angel:

[Aussie]

Nice work big fella :)

[PaulP38a]

, replace the cap and switch off.

make sure you do it in that order, unless you want to wash the engine bay with coolant :o

[adm333]

I have a TEFBA inline coolant filter in the top radiator hose.

TEFBA :: Engine cooling system Radiator filters :: Easy to CLEAN (http://www.franktonitto.com/tefba.php)

I had one of these in my previous classic rangie and it used to collect all sorts of junk.

It was one of the first things I put on the P38 for additional peace of mind - cheap at around $60.

It also makes it easier to replace the coolant, as you can pour the coolant in through it.

Dave

[Junosi]

OEM or Chinese copy?

Got a reply back from both Graeme at Melbourne Britcars and the UK Radiator vendor.

What Graeme is calling his OEM radiator ($440+gst) is manufactured by G&M in Scotland and are original equipment suppliers. The UK vendor also said his ones are G&M made in Scotland....

btw - all my current UK orders are being held up by the volcano, don't order from europe if you're in a hurry at the moment.

[Junosi]

Finally found a place that does cooling hose *kits* for the P38 at a decent price. Here's the link for anyone that's interested $100aud (£60) for the kit - a huge saving over buying individual hoses here in Aus. Given how damaging or annoying blowing a lowly hose can be.... (like a heater hose :angel:) I'm replacing them all.

HOSE KIT (http://www.britishparts.co.uk/.sc/ms/dd/Range%20Rover%20P38A--Cooling-Heating/3036/HOSE%20KIT)

[p38arover]

Got a reply back from both Graeme at Melbourne Britcars and the UK Radiator vendor.

What Graeme is calling his OEM radiator ($440+gst) is manufactured by G&M in Scotland and are original equipment suppliers. The UK vendor also said his ones are G&M made in Scotland.....

Yep, them's the ones! My first replacement was made by them, I'm sure the current one is Chinese.

[p38arover]

I have a TEFBA inline coolant filter in the top radiator hose.

TEFBA :: Engine cooling system Radiator filters :: Easy to CLEAN (http://www.franktonitto.com/tefba.php)

I had one of these in my previous classic rangie and it used to collect all sorts of junk.

It was one of the first things I put on the P38 for additional peace of mind - cheap at around $60.

It also makes it easier to replace the coolant, as you can pour the coolant in through it.

Dave

I didn't realise he was just down the road. I might go and see him.

[DT-P38]

Thanks Junosi will put that on the shopping list! Their service kits are great value too... its almost worth an airfare to fill up a couple of suitcases!!! Do you ever use their freight? Or stick with the mob you previously told me of?

[Junosi]

This will be my first order through them - waiting to hear what quote they give for freight before I decide.

[andrew e]

I got a tefba 2 years ago now in my county, after my radiator had all the mud cleaned out. Its nice quality and good in theory (although a bit pricy) however every time i check it its empty. Not even discolouration of the stainless filter gauze.

Andy

[Junosi]

This will be my first order through them - waiting to hear what quote they give for freight before I decide.

Turns out there postage is pretty reasonable. £41 postage for the hose kit, new viscous fan blade and serpentine belt.