fitting locker in rear diff prob??

[stig0000]

well im getting a rear locker for my fender,,, witch has a rover rear diff,, so its a arb r138 air locker, but i cant get one at the moment, and only for the front witch is a r128 locker,

so heres my problem, i want it in the rear, so i thought would the r128 fit in the rover rear anyway as they would be the same splines and ratio,,, but if its a diff part NO. there much be a difference;)

so can i just put the locker in the front diff center and put that in the rear,, and put the rover rear center in the front?? will it work;);)

or dose any one no were i can get a SH rear r138 airlocker from, there is non on ebay and none on here for sale:(

[Hardchina]

so heres my problem, i want it in the rear

Thats quoteworthy :eek:

Why dont you source a sals for the rear and lock that?
Is a locked rover rear diff really going to last long in a 110?

[BigJon]

I think that even though your rear diff is a "Rover" diff it is not the same as the front diff. Your rear diff will be a "wolf" diff.

[Disco_owner]

Stig000 , unless you've had a Diff transplant in the defender , I would say that the rear would be a "P38 Type" rear Diff not a "Rover Type".

[Hendrik]

Thats quoteworthy :eek:

Why dont you source a sals for the rear and lock that?
Is a locked rover rear diff really going to last long in a 110?

:Rolling: :Rolling: :Rolling: :Rolling: :Rolling: :Rolling: :Rolling: :Rolling: :Rolling:

that is classic!!!

What is actually different about the p38 rear diff from the rover type? I'm talking about the center portion where the locker actually fits in. The crown wheel is the same size because it has to be the same ratio. So why will a R128 not fit that p38 type banjo diff?

[justinc]

The bolt pattern etc is different, and AFAIR they are not interchangeable as they won't line up depth wise with the axles IF you actually are able to fit one in the housing.

Either fit a complete Disco1 rear differential (Cheap and easy to find and will bolt straight in only need to change tailshaft length) and lock it, or my preferrence is for a Sals and lock that.

The P38 diff is inherently weak even locked as the crownwheel is thinner and flexes away from the pinion, causing failure. Tusker had some issues time after time with his and I think he has now gone Sals.

JC

[stig0000]

Either fit a complete Disco1 rear differential (Cheap and easy to find and will bolt straight in only need to change tailshaft length) and lock it, or my preferrence is for a Sals and lock that.


JC
by a rear diff from a d1 do you mean like the full housing from disk to disk or just the diff center assembly

[long stroke]

by a rear diff from a d1 do you mean like the full housing from disk to disk or just the diff center assembly

I would say the whole housing, just by looking the p38 centre and housing both look different;)

TIM.

[Disco_owner]

by a rear diff from a d1 do you mean like the full housing from disk to disk or just the diff center assembly


yeah stig0000 , I believe that's what JC's talking about , I bought a whole rear Diff housing disc-disc from a late model d1 which included a Maxidrive locker for 1k and fitted it to my 1993 rrc.:)

[stig0000]

if we want to make it more simple so we no what were all talking about,, the front is a 2 pin diff and the rear is a 4, ;)

well my rear diff assembly is completely fine so maby i could get a swap out of BOR maby for a d1 rear,, they have a wreak down there with a maxi rear locker in it im pretty sure;)

another thing the bottom plate that the spring sits on,, thats interchangeable so i can keep my current springs and not go to d1 springs, as i have only just fitted my lift yesterday???

[jimbo110]

A Disco rear end is weak in a Disco, no matter about a 110.
Fit a locked, shaved Salisbury:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/11/806.jpg

A Disco rear will let you down when you need it the most. My Sals is less than 10mm lower than the front diff, and a hell of a lot stronger than a Rover diff and axles.

Do it once, do it right :BigThumb:

[stig0000]

cost is my problem:(
maby il have to make do with a detroit or a LSD;) both are still better then what i have now

[isuzurover]

cost is my problem:(
maby il have to make do with a detroit or a LSD;) both are still better then what i have now

If you shop around you should able to pick up an ARB/MD locked salisbury for AU$1000 or less disc-disc. You should then be able to sell your old rear axle. It would work out no more expensive than any other option.

[dbongard]

Clarification:

RD128 (Rover type) and RD138 (P38A) are not interchangeable due to the ring gear offset. The axle splines are the same and ring gear ID, bolt pattern, bearings, etc are common. P38A has a much larger flange diameter to get some extra support behind the ring gear to try to combat the flex. I can't say if it works or not.

Another very common mod in competition at the moment is to buy a Hilux third member and Hilux Air Locker (RD132) and swap a Land Rover gear set into the diff (direct swap in new ARB diffs), and bolt it up to the banjo (ratios matched to the front - obviously). You will double the ring and pinion strength and still be able to run Rover/Maxi shafts.

-daniel
AIR LOCKER

[discodriver]

Great info!! Did you go through a few disco diffs before switching to the Sals?

[rick130]

A Disco rear end is weak in a Disco, no matter about a 110.
Fit a locked, shaved Salisbury:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/11/806.jpg

A Disco rear will let you down when you need it the most. My Sals is less than 10mm lower than the front diff, and a hell of a lot stronger than a Rover diff and axles.

Do it once, do it right :BigThumb:

Fit a cast or heavy plated diff cover and you'll prevent any oil leaks occurring from peeling the tin one on a rock. ;)

I have a feeling it strengthens the centre too, especially if you use something like Loctite 518 to effectively bond it the the centre.
The downside is less oil cooling/more heat retained, so use an 80W-140 GL5 oil.