Recovery points: cost?

[discomarsh]

I got a quote over the phone from a Sydney LR specialist for $500 for a front recovery point. Does this sound right?

[Rosscoe68]

$90 for a pair from 4x4intelligence

[incisor]

rated ?

[101RRS]

Rated hooks (10,000Ib each) from ARB or Supercheap - about $25 a pair.

Garry

[ariddell]

Mine were $60 for the pair from Troutbeck.

[msteen]

Is it possible to attach the recovery points to my steel TJM bullbar? Will they hold under pressure?

I have read different threads on this and can't seem to get a straight answer, my thoughts would be that you can as the bullbar is attached to the chassis?

[101RRS]

Is it possible to attach the recovery points to my steel TJM bullbar? Will they hold under pressure?

I have read different threads on this and can't seem to get a straight answer, my thoughts would be that you can as the bullbar is attached to the chassis?

How is the bull bar attached to the chassis - often with mild steel or low tensile bolts. Also is the bull bar itself strong enough to take a snatch - they are designed to resist a pushing force from the front not take a pulling force from the front.

Unless I had the OK in writing from TJM I would not use it and put recovery points on the chassis.

Garry

[msteen]

Thanks for the reply, just got off the phone with TJM and they said they dont have any rated bullbars and would be better off attaching the recovery points to the chassis. Does anyone know where to mount the recovery points on the D2? I have looked under the car on the chassis and can;t find anywhere that seems suitable as the bullbar seems to get in the way wherever they go.

Any ideas?

[Disco W.A]

Thanks for the reply, just got off the phone with TJM and they said they dont have any rated bullbars and would be better off attaching the recovery points to the chassis. Does anyone know where to mount the recovery points on the D2? I have looked under the car on the chassis and can;t find anywhere that seems suitable as the bullbar seems to get in the way wherever they go.

Any ideas?

I fitted a set of $90 for a pair from 4x4intelligence they are rated. they bolt on where the steering rod protector bolts on. I live in Beechboro if you want to have a look.

Roger

[ariddell]

Same with the Troutbeck ones, they are attached where the crush cans fix onto the chassis rails.

The points themselves are 12mm thick and they come with a 10mm thick backing plate that goes on the other side of the chassis rail too on each side, so longer HT bolts were needed to fit them.

[Rosscoe68]

Mine were $60 for the pair from Troutbeck.

where do you get them from?, i can't find a online seller

[tapout]

I took my steering rod protector off, it is mounted to the crush cans, the recovery hooks you can buy get bolted there, mine where $20 each from a member on this forum, he had heaps made up, made out of 12mm plate steel (rated to), perfect fit.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/108.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/109.jpg
Advertise in the market section on this forum

Jason.

[discomarsh]

Thought it was fishy. Thanks fellas.

[incisor]

where do you get them from?, i can't find a online seller
Troutbeck Sales & Services (http://www.troutbecksales.com/)

[Urban Panzer]

I took my steering rod protector off, it is mounted to the crush cans, the recovery hooks you can buy get bolted there, mine where $20 each from a member on this forum, he had heaps made up, made out of 12mm plate steel (rated to), perfect fit.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/108.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/04/109.jpg
Advertise in the market section on this forum

Jason.

Although I fully appreciate these points are strong enough and the issue of recovery points on the front of a D2 is a bit of a headache, I still see the position of these to be to "high" up under the front, surely even a dead straight forward pull then the rope or whatever is used will be in contact with the bumper, if the pull is going upwards from the recovering vehicle, then it again would be even worse............if the front ends in mud, theres no way your getting to those points at all ......

Or am I barking up the wrong tree!!........:angel:

This is "one" of the reasons I chose the pre facelift ARB as it has the tow points on the front of it, and I "persoanlly" would always use the winch in preference to a "snatch" recovery if I was "that" stuck.

[ozscott]

The 4x4 intelligence ones are very good and well priced. See their web site. They are extremely heavy items and bolt straight to the chassis behind the crush cans. I have them on my 02 with a TJM steel winch bar. They do come down a bit lower and more forward than the ones pictured from what I can tell from the photos.

As for snatch v winching - you have to have a place to winch too...bit hard when stuck deep on the beach and sand anchors that work are heavy and no one really has them in real life. As for winching otherwise, it is nice to be able to self extract no doubt but if someone is handy with a strap and rated shackles and if you have solid front points with a bridle why not - far quicker than winch and saves your plasma rope/cable/winch for another time when you are flying solo or there is no room for the snatch.

In some ways I would like a winch, but its one of those things...if I stick one on I just know I am going to start getting stuck!!!

Cheers

PS. Here is a link showing some - these are not mine but are a better pic than the ones i posted on a similar thread http://www.aulro.com/app/data/500/medium/image1.jpg

[Mundy]

Its not only the recovery hook/bracket that needs to be rated but the point at which you attach it needs to be, too. The $500 price sounds like Bruce Davis, who, for that sum not only supplies a beefed up recovery point but also reinforces the attachment point on the chasis, which ordinarily is not designed to take the sort of loads experienced in snatching.

I discussed the lack of recovery points with LR some years ago. Issue is a legal one - they don't want to take the risk. The LR executive I spoke to said "Don't get yourself into trouble and you won't need a front recovery point". Further on in the conversation he suggested running a snatch strap under the vehicle from the rear tow bar!

How can you design and market an off road vehicle and not provide recovery points. It is one of the most ridiculous shortcomings of LR, IMHO.
Mundy

[Hoges]

replace the bolts securing the front control (radius) arms to the axle with slightly longer ones and secure a rated hook to each. when you are headed for harm's way, secure a couple of rated 3m slings, one to each hook and tie them out of the way onto the bull bar. when you get into strife, simply connect the slings with a rated shackle to the tow rope and get the tow vehicle to firmly pull you out NOT snatch you out...

For a reasonable engineering explanation of why this is a superior recovery attachment method read Technical Review of ADR (http://www.yican.com.au/ADR/TechADR.html)

good luck

[tapout]

The recovery points on my D2 are not in the way of my bullbar (4 inches away when being used for recovery), ive been pulled up hill for the gclro dare (driver awareness recovery education) and all passed with flying colours, if you are doing that sort of driving where your cars frontend gets buried you should have a shovel or drive to suit conditions.

Jason.

[ozscott]

I have snatched once using the stock point and it held on but chances are that it wouldnt have for long (forced bogging and mucking around) - but I have no doubt that the rails are strong enough for snatch recovery provided that a bridle is used between both to equalise the force...they are bloody strong rails, but thats just my opinion.

Cheers

PS. If someone has bent rails using a bridle set up please post it up

[Urban Panzer]

The 4x4 intelligence ones are very good and well priced. See their web site. They are extremely heavy items and bolt straight to the chassis behind the crush cans. I have them on my 02 with a TJM steel winch bar. They do come down a bit lower and more forward than the ones pictured from what I can tell from the photos.

As for snatch v winching - you have to have a place to winch too...bit hard when stuck deep on the beach and sand anchors that work are heavy and no one really has them in real life. As for winching otherwise, it is nice to be able to self extract no doubt but if someone is handy with a strap and rated shackles and if you have solid front points with a bridle why not - far quicker than winch and saves your plasma rope/cable/winch for another time when you are flying solo or there is no room for the snatch.
In some ways I would like a winch, but its one of those things...if I stick one on I just know I am going to start getting stuck!!!

Cheers

PS. Here is a link showing some - these are not mine but are a better pic than the ones i posted on a similar thread http://www.aulro.com/app/data/500/medium/image1.jpg

I agree winches are not always "practical", but "if" someone is there to "snatch" from, then the same person / vehicle could be used as a winch point, add a pulley block and extraction should be easy with no risk of damage from snatching out the vehicle.

Not sure I like the idea of snatching from the axle, seen a few instances where the axle "leaves" the chassis during a strong pull, and if that happens your dead in the water, the chassis itself would be my first choice for a pull.

[Slunnie]

Same, only snatch from the chassis.

re winch vs snatch. you can do most recoveries with a snatch, but not all - which is where the winch is good. The other great thing about a winch, is that you can use it to continue along a track that you've become stuck on, or are able to return along a track that you've become stuck on.

A snatch is easy, but you need somebody else
A winch is easy but you need something to winch off.

I think the $500 mount is Bruce Davis' also. That is a well engineered mount. It will rip the chassis out before the mount gives in - good luck trying to do that, you gear will break long before the chassis gives in.

Also, look carefully at the mechanics of any selected recovery point. There are a lot on the market that are not sound in my view from an engineering perspective. Not that the product is weak, but the leverage generated on the attachment bolts is wrong.

[MickS]

Also, don't discount snatching from the rear as opposed to the front wherever possible.

[discomarsh]

I think the $500 mount is Bruce Davis' also. That is a well engineered mount. It will rip the chassis out before the mount gives in - good luck trying to do that, you gear will break long before the chassis gives in.


I spoke to Bruce Davis at Davis Performance Landys, and theirs are rated to 8 tonne.

[Tombie]

I spoke to Bruce Davis at Davis Performance Landys, and theirs are rated to 8 tonne.

Theres the difference, BDs recovery point is RATED...

Others are not, and have not been tested. I have seen some others right at the fatigue point after a simple, mild recovery...

[discomarsh]

Theres the difference, BDs recovery point is RATED...

Others are not, and have not been tested. I have seen some others right at the fatigue point after a simple, mild recovery...

Fella said they pulled off at 10 tonne, so they rated them safe at 8.

[incisor]

i ALWAYS use a rated twin sling usually wire but sometimes chain when pulling on the front of a rover.

have seen a lot of damage done pulling on one leg only...

http://www.johnlrobertson.com/Products/Liftingchain/images/stralightsling234.gif

[newlandyowner]

What kind of recovery points do you use??

[newlandyowner]

replace the bolts securing the front control (radius) arms to the axle with slightly longer ones and secure a rated hook to each. when you are headed for harm's way, secure a couple of rated 3m slings, one to each hook and tie them out of the way onto the bull bar. when you get into strife, simply connect the slings with a rated shackle to the tow rope and get the tow vehicle to firmly pull you out NOT snatch you out...

For a reasonable engineering explanation of why this is a superior recovery attachment method read Technical Review of ADR (http://www.yican.com.au/ADR/TechADR.html)

good luck




Have you seen this ADR system ever fitted to a landy??
Would be pretty interesting to see one being recovered this way.