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View Full Version : DIY Fix for coked engines, glazed bores, fouled EGR ‘s, exhaust valve & turbo carbon



Brid
7th May 2010, 03:09 PM
It probably makes more sense to discuss some of the common engine issues that can be fixed, before I describe the DIY remedy.

Engine carbon can cause lost performance, poor fuel economy, hard starting, EGR valve problems, oil burning, smoke, turbo failures, exhaust valve failure (dropping & pitting) and shortened engine life through increased abrasive wear. The more carbon builds up, the more serious the problem becomes, and the risks of a catastrophic engine failure increase.

In most cases, carbon build up initially results from poor combustion of the fuel, (often due to excessive idling, light operation, short run times, cool operation). Poor tune, servicing history, fuel system deposits and fuel quality are also contributing factors. A little carbon build up around piston ring grooves will lead to oil burning, which further contributes to carbon deposits. Some of the main carbon build up issues are described below...

Cylinder glaze. This is a light deposit which fills up the grooves of the cylinder cross hatch. The action of the piston rings in motion leads to a shiny (glazed) surface finish. The cross hatch is designed to hold a film of oil, which then completes the seal between the cylinder bore and piston rings. Symptoms can include blowby, oil use, cold smoke (white) and power loss. Glazing often result from light operation, idling, cool running and short run times. New and rebuilt engines are much more susceptible to glazing than run in engines.

Combustion chamber carbon. This includes the top piston ring groove, piston top land, crown and cylinder head. Carbon build up here interferes with cylinder compression (ring groove), fuel/air turbulence (mixing), breathing efficiency (how easily gases are expelled). Excessive build up around rings will wear ring grooves & rings, while causing ring sticking and increases blowby and oil burning. Compression loss will also result in power/economy deterioration and smoke. Heavy carbon on the piston top land will rub against the bore causing irreversible abrasive wear (bore polish...as distinct from glaze).

Exhaust space carbon. The exhaust spaces & ports become crowded with carbon, reducing breathing efficiency and performance. Carbon on exhaust valve stems can rub in the valve guides to cause frictional heat and fatigue, which can end with a valve head breaking off and causing extensive damage to the engine. Pieces of carbon can blow off to cause damage to turbochargers, or cause a spark fire (a serious risk with some agricultural & locomotive applications).

Turbochargers. Carbon can build on turbo vanes and exposed parts of the shaft. It is a contributing factor in many turbo failures. Also the weight of a small amount of carbon on the turbo vanes will reduce the turbo speed and consequently its boost pressure.

EGR Valves. The build up of carbon can cause poor operation of the EGR valve and resulting performance issues, especially if it sticks in the open position.

Carbon removal with FTC Decarbonizer. While FTC acts as a combustion catalyst, to burn the fuel more completely, and cleanly, it also actively burns away any carbon exposed to the fuel flame. This is very much a progressive action, rather than an immediate removal of all carbon. In that respect it is much safer to use than aggressive solvents or even water misting. It is effective in all the above mentioned areas.

Light carbon (eg cylinder glaze) will burn away readily...often a short run on FTC is all that is required. In fact FTC is ideal for running in new engines, and is also used by some rebuild companies where customers have glazed their new engine. Burning off of heavier carbon starts straight away, but it does take longer to completely burn away. And that’s obviously the safer way to restore cleanliness.

Pull an engine down that has run on FTC for some time, and you can’t help but be impressed. Generally any carbon that is present on piston crowns or heads is so soft, that you can expose bare shiny metal with a wipe of a rag. Piston rings are clean and free in the grooves. Piston skirts are clean without any sign of varnish. Timing cases, valve gear and crankcases are clean. We supply the bulk of FTC to the mining industry, where we’re solved problems of exhaust valve failures at 3000-4000hr intervals in Cat D348 engines, reduced oil soot contamination levels in a wide variety of fleets, and reduced bore polishing in Cat 3500 series engines.

I’m happy to post a couple of engine photos here, if someone can tell me how.

Cheers
Brid
COST EFFECTIVE MAINTENANCE
Ph 07 3376 6188
sales@costeffective.com.au
Cost Effective Maintenance - Home (http://www.costeffective.com.au)

cockie55
7th May 2010, 08:22 PM
Hey Brid maybe you can chime in with your expertise on this thread albeit it about V8 gunk build up http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/104402-v8-carbon-clean-recommendations.html

DiscoJakes
24th February 2012, 04:46 AM
Good day all

Can someone inform me on what FTC is and or the equivalent in ZA?

Thanks

langy
24th February 2012, 06:31 AM
The product is a concentrated chemical fuel additive for diesel engines. I've used it for a fair while on my 300tdi and it helps. It's possible that it is in use at African mines - you'd have to ask them. But it's been around for a fair while here so it must have a decent client base. A.F.A.I.R. it is not flammable so you should be able to get some airmailed to you.

bsperka
26th February 2012, 07:09 PM
Guys,

These products are pretty good. Whilst I haven't used FTC yet, I have used and recommended several of their products to others. I''ll get around to trying FTC on the Hilux diesel (a 2L engine, 2.2 litres of raw power from 1982) and I believe that it will remove the glazing issue which it currently has (white smoke for several minutes on startup). Why? Because the other products have lived up to their claims and then some.

I've used flushing oil concentrate on both petrol and diesel engines - they have remedied ring issues on a petrol (lots of blue smoke at idle), and removed gunk from a 200,000km Hilux diesel, so much so that when I checked the oil after running it after the change I went "oh no", because I thought I had forgotten to put the oil in - it was that clean.

One of my friends used it in their landcruiser. Their son in law, when he saw the dip stick thought that the engine had been changed, as the oil was still clear. (It had travelled about 500 kms after the oil change by that stage).

I use the fuel additive on both petrol and diesels as well. The injector pump on the Hilux was gummed up, as the diesel had gone off. We used Clean Power Fuel Treatment, which fixed the problem. This saved us writing off the vehicle (second hand fuel pump about the same as the cost of the vehicle).

Lots of cynics out there about these products though, as I guess I was, hence using the Hilux as a test bed for the oil flush products. But I'm now a convert.