Which Coolant do you use

[DougLD]

Hi All
As i have removed the Radiator to replace the Harmonic balancer I was wondering if i can use the green coolant instead of the red OAT as i have tried all the spare part shops locally and non of them stock the OAT but all have the green coolant.
Regards
Doug

[disco_thrasher]

Nulon long life red OAT is available at all super cheaps

[Fluids]

... and quite often K-mart has it in the auto section.

Don't use green coolant ... others may/might (with a complete flush and clean out to remove ALL traces of the old red OAT coolant as they should not be mixed).

... get the red OAT and play it safe.

Kev..

[mattg]

I am about to do all of the coolant hoses so I need new coolant as well.

What does OAT mean? please excuse my ignorance if I should know theis already.

Cheers

Matt

[Blknight.aus]

Nulon OAT Longlife its red. its available everywhere kmart auto sometimes has it but if they dont wont order it in specifically.

OAT
Organic Acid Technology.

[rick130]

I am about to do all of the coolant hoses so I need new coolant as well.

What does OAT mean? please excuse my ignorance if I should know theis already.

Cheers

Matt

Most all coolants use ethylene glycol as the anti-freeze base, then an anti-corrosion (inhibitor) package is added.

Older type additive packages used silicates by themselves or in concert with nitrates.
These put a coating over all the reactive metal surfaces inside the cooling system to prevent corrosion, but deplete fairly rapidly.

Newer type coolants use carboxylate as the anti corrosive, which is known as an Organic Acid Technology coolant. OAT.
These only react with areas that are about to corrode and so keep the majority of surfaces 'clean'.
As a consequence their life is far and away much longer than older style coolants, something like 5 years vs twelve months, and a secondary benefit is that as they don't coat everything internally with a silicate, their heat transfer is better and as there aren't any nitrates, they don't abrade the pump seal or impellor.
As they are silicate free they also don't suffer silicate dropout.

However.

They can be touchy things too.
Any air leaks in the system and they can react badly, causing sludging.
One of the main constituents (can't recall it's name ATM) also acts as a plasticiser on some elastomer's (seal materials)
This is the cause of the dreaded intake gasket leaks in some V6 Chevs in the US.

Land Rovers OAT coolant used in the TD5 and V8's was developed by Texaco (Caltex here) and is identical to Caltex Long Life coolant, identified as utilising carboxylate technology on the bottle.

A third type of inhibitor package is known as a HOAT.
This is a Hybrid Organic Acid coolant, and incorporates the best of both coolant systems. There are a number available now, the most well known version used to be known as GO5.

Most coolant manufacturers make all types, and whilst I've used pure OAT coolants for years, they work really really well when a cooing system is in tip top shape, I tend to feel the HOAT's are probably a 'safer' long term answer, as do a few major manufacturers it seems these days.

[bsperka]

Always, always use the same colour as the coolant that was in there.

I use Nulon (have both red and green in the shed, as my japanese cars use green). I don't like to mix different coolant brands, as I have read several articles to indicate that they can and do react with each other and the engine components.

Why Nulon? Its a quality brand (there are others, but I prefer Nulon) that lasts for a long time and for a change every three or four years it is more cost effective than the cheaper brands which last one year or perhaps two. I always reverse flush the engine and radiator and change all the hoses every 2 second coolant change (every 6 to 8 years), or when they start to feel soft, if within that timeframe. Whilst it won't guarantee that there will be no problems, it is cheaper than running an engine with a water leak.

[LOVEMYRANGIE]

Rick
the one you refer to is Nalcool, the GM derivative. Nasty pasty when it mixed with air. Is still the basis for all GM coolants now but has been revised somewhat after all the problems.
We stock theDetroit Powercool which is used in Series 60 engines.
Generally don't use unless specified.
Another option is the Cat ELC.

Cheers

Andrew

[rick130]

Rick
the one you refer to is Nalcool, the GM derivative. Nasty pasty when it mixed with air. Is still the basis for all GM coolants now but has been revised somewhat after all the problems.
We stock theDetroit Powercool which is used in Series 60 engines.
Generally don't use unless specified.
Another option is the Cat ELC.

Cheers

Andrew

Actually the GM coolant is known as Dexcool, (basically identical to Land Rover OAT)
As you said it turned gunky with poorly sealed radiator caps and reacted with the seals on the intake manifolds on GM V6's and leaked coolant into the sump.

Cat ELC is the Texaco/Caltex LL (Dexcool, Land Rover OAT) with a couple of SCA's. (supplemental coolant additives, sorry for the acronym, I forget most wont know what the hell I was writing)
A CAT lab bloke wrote on another forum once what they were and the %'s (tiny amount) and it could have been a small amount of nitrate for cavitation errosion protection ?

The CAT stuff is bullet proof.

The funny thing is that the Caltex Long Life has CAT, MAN, Isuzu, etc approval too without the SCA's.

[LOVEMYRANGIE]

I'm sticking in the Cat in the next few weeks as I get it dirt cheap... Almost sinful to say how much but basically cheaper for a 20L drum than you can buy the equivalents from Supercrap :) :)

Ok.... It's under $50 a drum :) :) :)

We have actually put it in a few S60's with pretty good results particularly I cleanliness.

Your right on the dexcool, think the nalcool is the modified one. Will look up my info tomorrow to be sure.

Another you may have info on is Cummins PGXL..... :)

Cheers

Andrew



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[rick130]

I'm sticking in the Cat in the next few weeks as I get it dirt cheap... Almost sinful to say how much but basically cheaper for a 20L drum than you can buy the equivalents from Supercrap :) :)

Ok.... It's under $50 a drum :) :) :)



That's cheap ! :p



[snip]

Another you may have info on is Cummins PGXL..... :)

Cheers

Andrew





Stupid me keeps forgetting RH Taylor are only 30km away (closer than Caltex) and I'd be better off using the Cummins (Valvolene ?) stuff...and it'd cheaper.

[DougLD]

Hi Everyone
Thanks for all the replies I think I will go for Nulon either the red or green as there site tells us there Nulon Green Long Life Concentrated Coolant is OK to use in all cooling systems including those with aluminum radiators and I think it will be available in more shops in and around my area.
Regards
Doug

[rick130]

Hi Everyone
Thanks for all the replies I think I will go for Nulon either the red or green as there site tells us there Nulon Green Long Life Concentrated Coolant is OK to use in all cooling systems including those with aluminum radiators and I think it will be available in more shops in and around my area.
Regards
Doug

Whatever you do don't mix inhibitors.

[mattg]

Ok so I drained my coolant last night and tested it with the lipnus strip and it was just right. I'm changing my hoses.

But the first drain went into a Black tub and it was yellow. I then filled the system again and drained it a second time. this time I caught it in a cream bowl and it was red.

so which one should I put back in, the green or Red?
Cheers
Matt

[Fluids]

Red came out ? ... PUT RED BACK IN.

When I drained my red Nulon into a black drum it looked like dayglo orange !! I thought it was highly suspect ... until I tipped some into a white ice cream container to see it was actually red/pink.

If you do change to green (I wouldn't) make sure you flush ALL traces of red coolant first or you'll have a nasty failure down the track ... and it will need to be change more often as well.

Kev..

[rick130]

Red came out ? ... PUT RED BACK IN.

When I drained my red Nulon into a black drum it looked like dayglo orange !! I thought it was highly suspect ... until I tipped some into a white ice cream container to see it was actually red/pink.

[snip]
Kev..

The Land Rover OAT/Caltex stuff is fluro orange. ;)

[Fluids]

Thanks Rick.

It looked just like the really bright orange rusty water we had in the pump test tanks/test labs where we would do pump testing.

Can you imagine, how I felt, after seeing red thru the header tank, only to see RUSTY WATER in the black drain pan ... I nearly **** my pants ... ohhh noooooo, what have i got myself into !! I've bought a time bomb ... :eek:

My first time with red OAT coolant ... you live and learn ... and boy, have I learnt a bucket load of stuff about landrovers in the last 12 months! :angel:

Kev..

[LOVEMYRANGIE]

Rick
What info have you got technically for the Toyota coolant????
This stuff has been around for quite a while now and AFAIK no one makes an equivalent to it plus it has a kind of oily feel to it.
It's on my list of three possibiles....

Cheers

Andrew


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[rick130]

[snip]
... you live and learn ... and boy, have I learnt a bucket load of stuff about landrovers in the last 12 months! :angel:

Kev..

As soon as you purchase, you start learnin' :D

[rick130]

Rick
What info have you got technically for the Toyota coolant????
This stuff has been around for quite a while now and AFAIK no one makes an equivalent to it plus it has a kind of oily feel to it.
It's on my list of three possibiles....

Cheers

Andrew


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

None that I can think of, but I do (did ?) have a file and link from BASF on all the coolants they blend and their tech differences.

The manufacturers are starting to specify bespoke coolants just like they are with engine oils (eg. VW)

[rick130]

BASF's Toyota coolant is a stand alone blend called Glysantin G 70, made to Toyota's spec TSK 2601G-8A

OAT coolant, contains phosphates.

Glysantin®
Glysantin® engine coolants are formulated on the basis of ethylene glycol and an individually developed anti-corrosion package. They all are approved according to the car manufacturers’ coolant standards.


Glysantin G 05 Hybrid coolant, nitrite-containing
Glysantin G 30 OAT coolant
Glysantin G 33 OAT coolant with high reserve alkalinity
Glysantin G 34 OAT coolant
Glysantin G 48 Hybrid coolant, nitrite-free
Glysantin G 70 OAT coolant, phosphate-containing

Super Concentrates
Super Concentrates are inhibitor concentrates for the manufacture of Glysantin engine coolants. They have to be blended with ethylene glycol in individual mixing ratios. Exception: Corrosion Inhibitor BS 6580 is used for the manufacture of engine coolants, which fulfil current national standards (e.g. BS 6580:1992).


Corrosion Inhibitor BS 6580 OAT super concentrate for standard engine coolant, silicate-free
Super Concentrate G 99 Super concentrate for Glysantin G 48
Super Concentrate G 102 Super concentrate for Glysantin G 05
Super Concentrate G 106 Super concentrate for Glysantin G 30
Super Concentrate G 108 Super concentrate for Glysantin G 33
Super Concentrate G 109 Super concentrate for Glysantin G 34

Basin
Basin® is an engine coolant based on propylene glycol.


Basin P 43 Hybrid coolant, nitrite-free, based on propylene glycol

Glysacorr
Glysacorr® is an inhibitor concentrate with approvals for the manufacture of coolants without freeze protection. It is especially appropriate for the usage in heavy-duty engines, e.g. in trucks, ships and locomotives.


Glysacorr G 93 Hybrid corrosion inhibitor concentrate, silicate-containing
Glysacorr with vapour phase corrosion inhibitors
Corrosion inhibitor concentrate for engines during the running-in phase

Glysantin® FC
Glysantin® FC products are modern engine coolants for fuel cell vehicles (PEMFC).


Glysantin FC G 20 Fuel Cell coolant, ready to use
Glysantin FC G 21 Fuel Cell coolant, ready to use

[ramblingboy42]

what happened to a couple teaspoons of soluble oil in a bucket of water?
Oat is grain when ground can make flour, and when steamed and rolled then cooked with water an a lil salt becomes porrige

[Ean Austral]

Gday All,
My car went into a L/R specialist 3 yrs ago and they flushed the cooling system and changed the coolant to tectaloy 90+ (green)..so I have been using that since, I am now being told by other L/R specialists that that's the wrong coolant and will corrode the alloy head.
Without arguing who's right or wrong in the specialist department, whats people thoughts , expieriences, should I change it again for tectaloy red.
I have a 2001 td5..

Thanks and Cheers Ean

[rick130]

Gday All,
My car went into a L/R specialist 3 yrs ago and they flushed the cooling system and changed the coolant to tectaloy 90+ (green)..so I have been using that since, I am now being told by other L/R specialists that that's the wrong coolant and will corrode the alloy head.
Without arguing who's right or wrong in the specialist department, whats people thoughts , expieriences, should I change it again for tectaloy red.
I have a 2001 td5..

Thanks and Cheers Ean

Why would the head corrode ?
It use's a conventional inhibitor package that's been used for years in aluminium engines.

Tectaloy make excellent coolants. AFAIK they are the only locally based coolant blender that has their own lab and test facilities, the only downside with their 90+ over an OAT is that the life is three years/40,000km and the heat transfer isn't as good an OAT/HOAT as it uses a conventional additive package (which is designed for all alloy engines)

If you've exceeded 40,000km I'd be dumping and flushing.
When flushing use an alkali based flush initially (helps get rid of any silicates present) and then use an acid based flush if swapping to an OAT or HOAT (just prepares the metal surfaces for the new inhibitor better, this was the advise I got straight from Tectaloy ;) )
Tectaloy's Mukowt (alkali) and HD2 (acid based) are excellent flushes and what I use.

From the Tectaloy Techinfo catalogue and Green Book

Tectaloy
90 Plus - 3yrs or 40,000kms
Tectaloy 90 Plus is a pre-mixed, 33% Anti
Freeze Anti Boil, ready to use conventional style
radiator coolant.
Formulated for heavy-duty use, it is designed to
meet increased demands placed on passenger
vehicles today. Ideally suited to modern multi valve
engines working under increased loads.

{edit} Forgot to add that the correct cross for Land Rover OAT or a number of HD diesel engines with a Tectaloy coolant is their V Plus Orange, NOT the XP7 Red

[Ean Austral]

I recantly replaced the rad, thermostat ,hoses, etc and flushed the system then filled it with new coolant,so its only 2 mths old.

I may have miss quoted alittle on the head corroding out but it was something to that effect,

I know the coolant we use in our Cummins engines on the boat isnt the Cummins stuff, but it equivilant or better depending on who you talk to..

Thanks for the reply,

Cheers Ean

[rick130]

Ean, if you are really concerned drop Tectaloy (deVille Australia) a line.
I found their tech people excellent when I rang a few years back on swapping the Patrol to the same coolant as the Defender.

Which reminds me, i have to do a flush and new coolant on the tractor.